I have only shopped two games in my life, WCS and JP (that I just finished).
I found JP way easier to deal with than WCS. Could be that I have got some experience from my first game, but I just didnt find JP very complex or tricky to deal with.

ya i cant see JP being that difficult. not many 'layers' you would need to deal with.

Take a lot of pictures of the t rex motors, wires, linkages and position switches.

Be careful with the ramp as you'll have a had time finding a replacement.

Thanks guys. Doesn't look too bad once ramp is off.

Just wanted to see what others' experiences were.

Guys

What's up with the way JP's playfield pulls out of the cab?? When pulling it out, I have to yank it over the pivots, and then I can raise it up all the way. But when putting it back in, I have to lift the ass end of the playfield while sliding it back into place.

Are they just a pain to deal with? or am I missing something?

Mines like that too. I bought the mantis supports, Ive just never put them on.

So to put yours back, you gotta reach in the back and lift the back end of the pf too?

Pain in the ass design.

Yup same here

Amazingly shitty design.

INCREDIBLY SHITTY DESIGN

It is. At the beginning, I have lifted the pf during pulling out process too. Then one day, my operator friend visited me, to check something in JP, he pulled the PF in split second with one hand. He did the opposite backwards. Apply very small amount of grease (very thin layer), it will help. He told me, not my idea

And they named it Easy Access Service System.
Here is the hint about lubrication.

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so my fiancé just showed me a post from a private F.B group she is a member on where this dude just took possession a N.I.B Data East Jurassic park for $500.oo with a crazy 24 years story behind it ...I am not a member of the F.B page but will try to copy & paste the story here if she ever figures out a way to send it to me ...... in the meanwhile maybe someone else here can find it

Never mind she just noticed its a 1 Year old story!! probably already been posted here Guy still has the game

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/73#post-3949272

I wondered if I should lube those rails....

If only we knew one of these groups
https://www.facebook.com/groups/JurassicParkPinballOwners

It's so cool to come across stories like these...even if it's just a little teaser.

Joined the club this weekend, couldn't be more excited!

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Here is a resto topic of an epic JP restoration by Lonzo, maybe you can use some of the pictures
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration

Hi JP lovers!
Maybe I'm going to trade my Phantom of the opera for a Jurassic Park. What are the things I should check in the Jurassic Park? What are common problems? And is it a good deal?

Kind regards,

Dwight

Focus on T. rex. Run through coil diagnostics and make sure all fire.

Also T. rex diagnostics. He’s finicky.

Other than that, pretty straight forward.

Fellas: what’s the consensus on cliffys for this? My scoop holes are really nice and I wanna preserve them.

Somewhere I read cliffys on jp didn’t work well and caused ball issues.

Anyone?

Okay, thank you Blackbeard

Replace them with the newer stern supports and just forget how crap the original design ever was.

Using these style ones you pull down when you hit the hump and they will jump over.
Ie
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I wonder if anyone has redone their jp and put in Williams wpc95 style ones.

Anyone here with a spare (used) right blue slingshot plastic that would like to sell it to me?

Mine has cracked and I would like to keep the blue ones (I have red spares).

I read a lot of posts on jp and some
Suggest to reheat cold solder joints on the little shaker motor pcb in addressing T. rex issues.

Why? Does T. rex runnthrough that board as well as the other 2 relays under the pf?

Check the main playfield wire harness, it can rub against the upper right flipper coil stop. The vibration of the flipper coil can cause the harness to saw against the coil stop, shorting the wiring. This can cause random coil firing, blown fuses, and switch matrix shorts.

The prior owner of my JP used black electrical tape as a cushion - what a sticky mess. I removed thinking there would be damage, but found none. I zip-tied the harness in a way that nicely clears the solenoids - no more sticky.

Also, the main subway replacements can be hard to find. Inspect the attachment flanges for breaks and cracks. I had a crack in the right most flange which I reinforced with a small piece of acrylic, fitted to match the contours and welded in place with this solvent. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-solvent-to-repair-pinball-ramps-and-plasticsend-of-story. If I could have used a more viscous version of this would have been better - this stuff is thinner than water.

Good luck finding your JP!

For a while, my Rex would only turn right when he felt like it. I redid the solder on the motor under the playfield and he's back to normal. Not sure if that is the answer you were looking for.

I had my Cliffy's on for a year or two. I eventually took them off. My holes are pretty worn, and I like it that way. But yeah, the cliffy's blocked enough shots that I just got tired of them. There'd be slow rolls that the tiniest of lips would block the ball from entering the hole.

I figured, 15 +/- years of being on location, I'm not going to cause any more damage than what's already been done.

But someone has mentioned before that I think Mantis makes hole protectors that line the inside of the hole, rather than putting a corner around the lip of the edge. Those should protect decent, plus they wouldn't block any shots from going in.

Thanks Woody

I had them on my whirlwind and liked them. Pretty much same layout as JP.

I'm trying to join the club. I've been looking for one near me for a few months now. I know prices vary widely based on condition. What's the going rate on a player's condition machine? I figured if anyone would know it would be you guys, and I didn't want to start another price check thread. Thanks in advance.

Cliffys are a must or your scoops will get wallowed out and look like shit. The thing is you have to fix any wear in the scoops before installing or the cliffys will deform over time and the lips will stick up and cause misses.

That NIB JP has followed me home!!

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More pics please!!!

Interesting trade I have both machine and I actually play my Phantom more. Jurassic Park is worth significantly more so I would do the trade. JP is deeper for sure, it's a DMD with lots of modes. Phantom is way shallower but it just has that draw to it, that one more game feeling.

Wait, are you the guy who's mother-in-law or something like that bought two machines and left this one in the box for the person? Or did you buy it from him? Pretty sure I remember there being chalk drawings on the box from 2-ish or so years ago.

I need to see full unboxing of this! Plus plenty of shots of the playfield.

But man. That's so awesome!

I don't notice any rejects from the cliffys on my JP.

I purchased it from that guy yesterday. We will document the unboxing very well. Might be a week or 2.

Dedicated thread here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nib-jurassic-park-probably-the-last-one

Guys I noticed that my left jet bumper light will lite with all other lites on it’s row.

Am I correct to assume that one of the diodes on that row is shorted?

Also, where are the lamp diodes for a bumper??

Hi BB,

Are you talking about the left and right inlane inserts being lit? If so see the following posts by ChadH who created the 6.0 version of the JP game ROM.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/12#post-2526802

Gord

Hey gord

No. The left jet bumper lites with all other lites in its row.

Bump. Anyone ?

It seems on the left side of middle bumper.

JP bumpers (resized).JPG

Thanks Davi. That’s where I thought they were. Onnthat little board.

I notice too that that pop bumper only seems to light with a led installed.

bump

Welcome to Pinside! I see your from Columbia, SC. FYI - There is a fun tournament and league scene there, and in Greenville and Charleston as well, and I usually show up at the tournaments and there are a bunch of other cool folks. Placed 27th in the state last year and 16th the year before, so you can see the scene and talent is growing quickly. (you can check the IFPA calendar for more on that if interested)

Regarding price, a lot of it is being at the right place a the right time. You can see Pinside says $2500-2900. That is assumed a fairly nice condition, fully working pin at a private sale if you can track one down that cheap. A retailer would charge more to cover their overhead, etc. Maybe $3500+. A fully restored JP would be even more.

Players condition (fully working with significant playfield and cabinet wear) I guess would be around 2k or less. It all depends on condition, so beaters are less. Boards or things needing repair or parts missing would make it a project which is the best deal if your handy with tools and a soldering iron.

Someone might say - I dare you to show me a nice JP for 2500-2900, but they made 9008, so deals do come along.