Maybe cleared over the top? I can see a slight shimmer so perhaps it’s just gloss decals.

I want to join the Jurassic Park club and am looking to trade a WCS I fixed up really nicely. The WCS was my first pin, and there were a few extra things I had to fix I wasn't expecting to have to fix due to a lack of knowledge on my part. What should I be looking at in a Jurassic Park machine other than the usual, everything works, playfield not scratched up, basic condition, etc. Is there anything specific I should look out for? I'm guessing the TREX being fully functional is at the top of the list. I have had 3 offers in the few hours I've had it up, but have seen no pictures. One is advertised as "players condition", another is missing the TREX and main ramp, and another is fully functional but "the ball won't go down the TREX shoot". Just how hard is it to get the TREX working? Is this a maintenance heavy machine?

Thanks and having a lot of fun reading through 4,651 posts on a single pinball machine. Ain't the internet grand?

I just want to find someone that can supply me with the inner wall art, that is great!

I got mine from arcade skinz before he shut down. Retro refurbs has a couple, and the one they have for Gilligan island would look nice too.

I have a set that matches the back panel art. I went with mirror blades. I also have a set of never used Loop combo.

Definitely get one that HAS a t-rex. If it's missing, you're going to be in rough shape trying to find a replacement. The mechanism isn't too terribly complex, but there is a gearbox as part of the left/right turning movement that can wear down. I'm not aware of an aftermarket repair for that other than finding a replacement motor/gearbox. I'm not sure how readily available those are at this point.

There's literally just a hole down the middle of the t-rex for the ball to fall into the subway below. If the ball isn't making it down into the subway, there's blockage - perhaps a screw that's too long holding the plastic t-rex parts on. The screws thread right into the ball's path in the t-rex frame. You're potentially looking at an overlong screw in the back of the t-rex's neck or the 2 screws in the front of the t-rex. I can't think of anything else besides potentially debris in the path.

Basically for the t-rex to function, you've got to have left/right movement working (some people disable it if gears are worn down), left/right t-rex switches working, center t-rex switch working, t-rex trough switch working, t-rex up and down switches working, t-rex up/down movement/motor working, t-rex jaw link mechanically working properly, and coil that drives the jaw working. These can all be basically tested in the t-rex test menu.

I'm not sure what you should expect for trades for your WCS. It might be worth checking average values of each and make your decision from there. Maybe you can expect a similar condition JP, or perhaps get cash your way for one that's not fully working. It sounds like some people might be interested based on your offers. I wouldn't trade a JP for one, but JP is a grail theme for me.

As far as maintenance goes, I haven't found the t-rex to require much. I replaced the jaw frame and link assembly to remove slop in the old ones, but I haven't had to do too much to it over the years. Otherwise you're looking at similar maintenance to any other game from the era. Things go wrong here and there and you fix them as you go.

I see that there are some blue JP slingshot plastics available. I know that previously there have been some JP owners looking for the blue slingshot plastics. It looks like there are 5 of the JP blue slingshot plastics (2 complete sets + an extra left side slingshot plastic) and 4 of the JP orange slingshot plastics (2 complete sets).

Note that I am not the seller of these plastics. The seller is @widebodyguy.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/various-slingshot-and-other-plastics

Gord

thanks for the heads up. I will get in contact with him . I need some slingshot plastics

thansk to this thread i just went to Tim's mods and ordered the small raptor crate, the gate and the dock sign!!! cant wait

oh and of course my first mod was the Goat!! I found one!

He’s down to 1 left blue. 2 pairs taken. Not by me unfortunately

i've got spare orange slings

What would you guys value this "Players Condition" Jurassic Park at assuming everything (including the TREX) worked https://imgur.com/a/iprIrEA If I traded for something in this condition would I have a hard time selling it?

See if that backbox is solid or totally rotted

I'm not sure of the value of that one, but with some looking you can find a fairly nice JP for ~$2500, so I would pass on one with a bad cab.

Photos of the inside would provide more info.

Yes you will have a hard time selling it.
I would have a hard time even paying $1200 for it. That cab looks like it has had some very serious moisture issues, so everything is suspect. That may be the one that was for sale a couple years ago that was flooded in a hurricane. Unless you get it for ridiculously cheap (like $1000 or less) I would pass on that nightmare.

Ask some pictures of boards and under playfield!

Hi, I have a problem with my IP. While playing, the pinball is switched off and only the GI is switched on with the display off and the 3 lights on the CPU board turned off. After 5 minutes, it restarts regularly

Sounds like your 5 volt supply is bad. I had to replace the capacitors on the main power supply board a while back and had the same symptoms. Easy way to check is to get a voltmeter and check the voltage at the test points. They are located on the power supply board in the upper right hand corner. The voltage is listed right on the test point. GI only and no dmd means you are not getting 5 volts. Check that one first. If not 5v, look at all the smaller capacitors on that board to see if any appear to be leaking. I think the ones responsible are C2 and C7 if I recall correctly.

Vero very thanks

The problem is only on power supply?

I'm looking for the plastic that runs from the VUK all the way up behind the upper flipper. I think it's one piece? If anyone has a new or used one they are willing to sell, PM me.

JP Plastic (resized).png

I put new plastics on mine earlier this year. I will see what shape my old one is in when I get back in town.

Just an FYI, it is actually two plastic pieces as shown in the photos below.

Gord

P1010110 (resized).JPG
P1010109 (resized).JPG

Here are some images of the power supply board. In the upper right corner, you can see the test points with the voltage next to them. Take a voltmeter and put it on 20vdc. Turn on the machine and with the coin door closed, put the black lead on a grounding strap and the red lead on each of the test points. Each should match the output. Check the 5 volt test point and make sure it reads 5 volts. Any less will cause the dmd to not boot up or reset. So the machine will wait for the dmd to start with the GI on only and will just sit there.

I also took a close up shot of the capacitors that I replaced. They were the two blue ones (C7 and C2). From the pic you can see where it is a little shiny around those two. These will leak spilling out onto the board. This may or may not be your problem, so make sure you check all the basics first like fuses and reseating connectors and ribbon cables.

0292340A-E3D9-4FD2-8A18-CDE3FB477AAC (resized).jpeg

05AEBF06-6418-4525-AA06-DF1CFD0E1287 (resized).jpeg

9E4B8410-57C0-4148-92EF-85C90925B64A (resized).jpeg

Def 2 plastics. I need the lower one that has the flasher dome on it if anybody else has an extra.

Thanks thanks thanks

Should i periodically change these capacitors evan if there is nothing wrong with my machine? Thanks.

Once every 20 years should do.

I turned on the Pinball, it was perfectly made, I did measure with the test and these are the results: in the 5V the result was 5.06, for the 12V the result was 10.7 constant, for -12 The result was 13.01. I tried to make 2 games, in order to perform measurements during the defect but, unfortunately, this time worked perfectly. Sorry for my English

I'm thinking of buying a #JP and had a question. Do all JP come with a shaker motor already installed or is that something that I need to add myself? It makes the game so satisfying

Anything else I should be aware of when checking out a JP before buying?

Comes with shaker unless it doesn't. Meaning if someone pulled it out.

Playfield should be in decent shape. Rarely seen one with wear. I couldn't care less about scoop holes. You won't find a perfect example of these unless you're the guy who just got one NIB a year or two ago. Play the machine and enjoy it. Test the Trex to make sure it goes side to side and up and down. Check the main ramp for cracks. Look at the subway for cracks or broken or improperly fixed mounting points on the subway. General plastic overview. Mine even had some broken ones, but are in areas where you'd never notice. Overly rusted sockets on the underside of playfield.

Ah... those are some things I could think of.

So the one I'm looking at has a small crack on the main ramp - how big a deal is this (apparently it doesn't affect gameplay)? Looking around online, it looks like a part that is hard to replace.

Depends on where the crack is. They are pretty close to impossible to replace. I’d go into it assuming you won’t find an uncracked one. There’s a hope that Freeplay40 will start making them when he finishes his bigger heating setup but that’s just a hope.

Anyone know where I can get the sign mods the go over the Bunker and Control Room? Let me know thanks

https://loopcombo.com/

Thanks J-Freeze, just ordered a set. 2-3 Weeks shipping yikes! New Zealand lol, oh well hopefully get before Christmas.

Show us a picture of your crack, some cracks are glueable or even unnoticable when not to big!

No dirty meaning btw

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-glue-for-clear-plastic-ramp-cracks

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/71244

This is the market listing, you can see the crack in the 5th pic.

There is a second little crack at the screw hole above the pop, won't entervere with ball travel and will probably hold up.
But i myselff would verry carefully remove the ramp and insert some glue from the bottom dide of the ramp.
But when left alone it prob. will hold up.
Just make sure the lane guide doesnt touch the plastic side when opened.

Also the lights above the scoops are missing
And the plastic to?

Ah good catch about the lights, I didn't notice that. I assume those are a bit of a pain to replace.

Are they an easily found part?

I will point out what is wrong or missing on that machine and you can decide for yourself if it is worth the price. Some things listed are easy to fix and some no so much.

1. Obviously the crack in the ramp. I am not sure how a crack formed there unless it was set up so bad that the diverter hit it. Ramps are hard to come by and that cant be covered up like a crack on a ramp entry.
2. Looks like a gouge above the DE logo on the left side of the cabinet and planking on the right. You can never tell how bad or good the cab looks until you see it in person so these may be either worse or not as bad as the photo looks.
3. Topper is missing
4. Right flipper lane guide is broken
5. I cant tell if that is a piece of cleaning cloth on the Stampede computer insert. I think it is.
6. If you look close, a lot of the metal parts shot corrosion on them. More than likely, the metal parts under the playfield look the same. Maybe it was in a moist environment.
7. It kinda looks like the Mosquito Amber block might be cracked on the left. Its very hard to tell with a textured object and this would need to be inspected in person.
8. The plastic is missing above the upper right scoop, it has a home made brown plastic.
9. The ramp is cracked on the left side and bottom at the entrance. The left metal protector is either installed wrong or is not correct. It is supposed to extend the dame distance as the right side.
10. As mentioned above, the lights are missing above the Bunker and Control scoop.
11. The plastic is broken above the Bunker scoop (2 places) and Control scoop.
12. The Control scoop is blown out so bad that the Cliffy doesn't even cover it. More than likely, the other scoops are blown to and just covered instead of repaired and then covered.
13. The green single target to the right of the Control scoop is twisted 45 degrees to the right. Not sure if it is mounted wrong on bottom or a screw is out and it just rotated or its bent.
14. The green insert associated with the above target appears to have has a bad touchup job on the green outline and there appears to be damage to the playfield from the green ring out into the playfield to the left of the insert.
15. I have never seen a wire form ramp that has the "side" piece that is seen above the flippers. No big deal and maybe they changed it through the production run but I have never seen that. If you like it then its fine.
16. There is supposed to be a spotlight in the "Shoot the Trex now" box. Looks like it was replaced with a blue LED just as the normal red light above the box. Personal preference. Easy fix if you want to go back to stock.
17. Big clear plastic missing above the upper right flipper. This is to keep the ball from being stuck if it bounces on top of that plastic.

My point is not to talk you out of anything but just to make you aware of things to look at and if the work involved is worth the price you will pay. When done, will you will have what you want in the end. Good luck.

Thanks this is a really informative reply - I really appreciate it. I'm not as well-versed on the ins and outs of JP so this was really helpful. Seems like a bit of an overpay, with a lot of possible problems. But it can also be hard to get games where I am. I'll think on it. Trying to not let me desire for the title push me to overpay for a machine that will give me headaches.

IMO the JP machines on the market right now all seem to be overpriced. I PM'd the last few people who got one and the going rate for a nice one (shopped, no major problems, decent condition, new LEDs) seems to be around $2,800. Those are the ones that actually sold. I'm sure one will pop up at a decent price if you give it time. I'm playing the waiting game too.

Cool - yeah I guess that's what I'm going to have to do too. Granted the whole market has been a bit hot lately and things seemed to have made a jump in prices across the board. Maybe it is just the time of year?

Better get 'em while they're hot! 10k by Christmas!

I can appreciate the distance a game is as a factor in whether or not the price is worth it. If a game you want is going for cheaper several states away, that's going to be a costly trip to pick it up or ship it without an in-person inspection. It may be worth a premium to get a game that's closer and available now. Those who wait patiently for great deals aren't playing the game they want in the mean-time!

I expect in time that we'll be able to get most of the parts needed to refresh a JP, so it might be ok to get a less than perfect example now if the price is right. Then determine if it's a keeper worth investing (i.e. wasting - with no intention of recouping in a future sale - for the fun of it) in for improvements. Plastics are available from CPR, and I think they'll have JP playfields at some point. Their new business model will result in the things they offer being perpetually available. If there's demand, ramps will probably eventually be made by someone. Repro translites are available. The cabinet artwork is relatively simplistic and would be possible to restore if skilled enough (or invest in services of others), or there are decals available from somewhere, I think. Toppers are available. Perhaps figure out the costs of the parts that are currently available that you'd want to replace on the one you're buying and see if you can haggle down accordingly.

Stock T-rex plastic parts are hard to come by if you get one that's not great, but I've made an improved-looking replacement that I hope to make more available for sale soon. It's not cheap, but this is not a cheap hobby.

Good eye, I never seen that before. I need one of these to keep the ball from flying off on my JP.

Too easy