(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
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56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7271 posts in this topic. You are on page 90 of 146.
#4451 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Below are a couple of photos of my topper attached to my JP. The JP topper is attached with 4 screws as shown in the photo. There is no bracket as the metal piece is a light reflector for the light flashers behind it.
Gord

I've always wondered what went there. Owned my JP for 20 years and it's never had the metal light reflector piece. I didn't see anything in the manual that gives a part number. Does one exist?

#4452 1 year ago
#4453 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Most important is to check Full functionality of the trex. A broken motor can set you back easily usd 100. There are two motors, for up down and 1 for left right. And original plastics are also rare. There are repro’s made however. But than some color differences can be expected.
For the rest just the usual as with other pins.

To add on to this, if the left/right motor is weak or failing, it can be disabled and not affect game play. On mine, it seemed that T-Rex would move a bit slow to the left or right sometimes and not be ready to eat the ball. At that point, it makes sense to forget the side to side movement in favor of always being ready to pick up the ball.

#4454 1 year ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

To add on to this, if the left/right motor is weak or failing, it can be disabled and not affect game play. On mine, it seemed that T-Rex would move a bit slow to the left or right sometimes and not be ready to eat the ball. At that point, it makes sense to forget the side to side movement in favor of always being ready to pick up the ball.

Also check the CPU/Display version...if it's really old there could be more wear on the motor as the code was updated to address burning out the gears / stressing the motor.
<v5.0 is pretty rare out in the wild, but it's possible, especially on reimports.

I can help with updated roms if you can't burn your own.

#4455 1 year ago

Fortunately, if there is any issue with the T-Rex, the software lets you disable side to side movement or disable it entirely so you can enjoy your pin while searching for parts, etc.

#4456 1 year ago

Any interest in making them and selling? I'm sure I'm not the only guy missing this.

I don't have metal fab tools and no longer have access to a machine shop I can play in. My only choice is to take it to a local fab shop.

#4457 1 year ago

Put my topper on last night. It looks great when the flashers light it up!

I can see why they crack though - the thing flops around like crazy with any nudging. I'm thinking of running a support wire from the top of it down to the back of the backbox.

#4458 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Any interest in making them and selling? I'm sure I'm not the only guy missing this.
I don't have metal fab tools and no longer have access to a machine shop I can play in. My only choice is to take it to a local fab shop.

I might have one left. Ill check later tonight.

#4459 1 year ago

Is this a rare part?

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#4460 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Is this a rare part?

Sorta. I'm on the hunt for a nice one, but they never pop up.

#4461 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Is this a rare part?

Am on holiday now but I think I know somebody who has this part lying around from dissembling a JP long time ago. Don’t know how nice it is though. If you are missing it should me a PM after August 1 so I can dig it up with my friend and ask if he wants to sell it.

#4462 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Am on holiday now but I think I know somebody who has this part lying around from dissembling a JP long time ago. Don’t know how nice it is though. If you are missing it should me a PM after August 1 so I can dig it up with my friend and ask if he wants to sell it.

Thanks, will contact you soon. Enjoy your holiday!

#4463 1 year ago

Time for me to join the club officially, yay.

I bought my JP about two years ago and its the machine that got me into this hobby. I had no plans to start buying pinball machines, when I stumbled upon this game. Long story short, the guy asked $600 for it and even though I didnt know anything about pinball prices at the time I took a chance and bought it, you only live once. Lets just say it was a good call.

The game had some issues and was filthy, needed new rubbers etc. I didnt feel up for the task right then since I had zero experience about pinball machines and I didnt know anything about electronics in general. Nevertheless, I was hooked, and instead decided to buy a machine that was in working condition and learn as I go (ended up buying a WCS). JP went into storage.

A few weeks back I decided to get it back out and check it out. Was a bit nervous since I didnt know about pinball machines and batteries at the time it went into storage.. No leakage though. Original batteries was still in the game.

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Trigger button wasnt working (split wire) and the l/r relay was acting up (reflowed) but now, as far as I can tell, its working as it should.
Flippers are weak. With the batteries never being changed I presume the flippers have never got any love either, so gonna rebuild them all.

It should clean up nicely. Will start the teardown soon

#4464 1 year ago

Speaking of flipper rebuilds.. Is there any kits out there for all 3 flippers? Or do I need to order a kit for the lower ones and loose parts for the upper right?
What should one replace then, everything but the coil?

#4465 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Speaking of flipper rebuilds.. Is there any kits out there for all 3 flippers? Or do I need to order a kit for the lower ones and loose parts for the upper right?
What should one replace then, everything but the coil?

I’ll typically go ahead and put a new coil on as well while I’m there. $25 well spent. Lots of times they’re mismatched or just wrong.

#4466 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Speaking of flipper rebuilds.. Is there any kits out there for all 3 flippers? Or do I need to order a kit for the lower ones and loose parts for the upper right?
What should one replace then, everything but the coil?

While rebuilding things, you might rebuild the VUK (just below the upper right flipper) since unloved JP's can have a problem with the up kicker not getting the ball enough oomph to fire the ball up and keep things going. Originally, mine would sometimes take a few kicks before the ball was sent on its way. Nary a problem with it since the rebuild.

#4467 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Time for me to join the club officially, yay.
I bought my JP about two years ago and its the machine that got me into this hobby. I had no plans to start buying pinball machines, when I stumbled upon this game. Long story short, the guy asked $600

Welcome to club, you got quite a deal. Seems like my last sweet deal was 2yrs ago as well. I wonder if those good deals are still out there with the growth of pinball and the collector market.

DE made a bunch of JPs, so plenty of us here to coach you along if needed. Watch for any sticky switches in the trough, and make sure the wires are secure on the EOS switches and the control room scoop switch. Those are some of the common issues I have found.

5 krona = 1 speil. Looks like that is a reimport from Sweden. That just adds more to the story.

#4468 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

You may still be able to track down original bodies, or at least some parts of it, but I would suggest not buying a game with missing parts unless you're getting a really good deal.

They're rarely available and only in the US, but there is an updated T-rex body. I'm the one who makes it.

PM sent.

15
#4469 1 year ago

My first try at clear coated cabinet and cutting my own decals.

Still needs to be color sanded and buffed but should flatten out nicely.

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#4471 1 year ago

Wow!!! Very nice!

#4472 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

My first try at clear coated cabinet and cutting my own decals.
Still needs to be color sanded and buffed but should flatten out nicely.

Nice!

#4473 1 year ago

You can put wheels on it and drive it down the road!

#4474 1 year ago

I will bet cutting the decals took some time.
Did you do it by hand or did you do it with a machine?

#4475 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I will bet cutting the decals took some time.
Did you do it by hand or did you do it with a machine?

I did it with a machine, 28' vinyl cutter. Laying the yellow layer was a PITA. my wife recently got into crafty stuff with a Cricut so she was a big help with this.

#4476 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

My first try at clear coated cabinet and cutting my own decals.
Still needs to be color sanded and buffed but should flatten out nicely.

Looks nice. What is the reason of clear coat? Cosmetic or practical thing, or both?

#4477 1 year ago

Cuz it looks amazing duh

#4478 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Sorry guys/gals, I decided to go with the one from mezel mods. Use coupon code: excited for 10% off - came out to $18.27 shipped which is probably about as good as it's going to get. I'll report back on how it goes
https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-glo-balls?variant=3011160260

I said I'd report back in:

this ball is depressingly beat up. MAYBE 100 plays in the last 7+ months. and 75 of those are my 2 yr. old who has about a 7 second ball time...

I'm going back on the hunt for the ceramic TZ ball

#4479 1 year ago

Color sanded and buffed. I've only done one side and the front so far. I may add another few coats of clear on the other side. I did not get the decals sanded completely flat, kinda scary which is why I want to add clear to the other side. I'm no professional, this has been a big learning experience but something that I've wanted to do.... Cause shiney is so cool.

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#4480 1 year ago

Surprised every one goes with the standard black. No one has ever done a cool palm tree pattern or something different behind the logo.

Still looks great, no discount to that.

#4481 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

Color sanded and buffed. I've only done one side and the front so far. I may add another few coats of clear on the other side. I did not get the decals sanded completely flat, kinda scary which is why I want to add clear to the other side. I'm no professional, this has been a big learning experience but something that I've wanted to do.... Cause shiney is so cool.
[quoted image]

I did the exact same thing to my cab. You will have a stunning machine when finished. Very nice work.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/5

#4482 1 year ago

Im in the middle of strippin my upper playfield but it seems like the T-Rex is in the way to get some parts of, like the raptors danger playfield.
Am I supposed to tip him forward from the test menu? Is it safe to do that in the state the game is in now?
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#4483 1 year ago

I don't remember having to remove trex to get that plastic off of that's what you mean

#4484 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I don't remember having to remove trex to get that plastic off of that's what you mean

Yeah, I meant the big plastic around the raptor area, damn auto correct..
How did you do that?

The plastic that goes around the T-rex backside is stopping from getting to the last screw, and I cant find a way to remove it.

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This one

#4485 1 year ago

Pop the cover off the motor and just spin it with your fingers.

#4486 1 year ago

Okey, solved it myself. Have to remove the front of the T-trex and have him leaned forward (ball pick up position) to get to the last two screws.

#4487 1 year ago

Hi All,
I just joined the club and am absolutely loving this game. Even my wife is enjoying it. Picked up a game in great condition. The only issue i've experienced is on a few occassions the t-rex head hasn't gone back up. But if i restart the game the head operates normally for another 20+ games. Has anyone seen this before?
Cheers,
Andy

#4488 1 year ago

Alright, everything is off the playfield. Now its time for a break and wait for leds, flipper rebuilds and some other goodies that I'v ordered.
But before that, today I noticed some things I could use you opinions on.

All mode inserts, more or less, have small cracks around them. If I draw my nails over the pf I can feel them, but its not enough for me to actually get "stuck" in them.
Whats causing this? I know about inserts sinking/raising, but I cant really feel any height diffrence from the inserts and rest of the pf.
jp1 (resized).jpg

My T-rex kickout area and my shooter lane is worn. The wood feels "dry" and I can quite easily remove fiber from some spots.
What can I do about this? This wont be a collector game, just looking for something that looks okey and to avoid further wear.
Sand and clear?

jp2 (resized).jpgjp3 (resized).jpg
#4489 1 year ago
Quoted from Andyj965:

The only issue i've experienced is on a few occassions the t-rex head hasn't gone back up. But if i restart the game the head operates normally for another 20+ games.

I have not seen that but, try looking under the playfield in that area and make sure the wires are not coming loose from the motor or the sensor. Also look over all the hardware under there for anything coming loose.

#4490 1 year ago
Quoted from Andyj965:

on a few occassions the t-rex head hasn't gone back up. But if i restart the game the head operates normally for another 20+ games. Has anyone seen this before?

My guess is there may be a small break in the wires somewhere that shorts when the head goes down, most of the time maintaining its connection but when bent just right cuts out.

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#4491 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

My guess is there may be a small break in the wires somewhere that shorts when the head goes down, most of the time maintaining its connection but when bent just right cuts out.[quoted image]

The wires in your picture are only for the coil that controls the jaw. The motor wires are completely under the playfield. I would check the wire connections to the motor and also check the wires to the "up" switch and the switch itself. If this switch is adjusted poorly so it makes contact randomly then the game will think the trex is up and the motor will quit. I would pull up the diagnostics screen for the trex and move it up and down with the controls and see if you can reproduce the problem. If you can, then take a look at the status of the switches and see what they indicate.

#4492 1 year ago

Can someone help me out on my JP? The lower half of the back box lights, the top left corner GI lights, and the spotlight on the Trex are all out. There is no power to sockets on the volt meter. I checked the fuses and looked for anything obvious but got nothing. Not sure how to diagnose this. I’m assume they are all part of the GI and not on the lamp matrix since all the other lights test out correctly. Love this game but it’s super dark without the lights. Thanks!

#4493 1 year ago

Thanks for the replies. I'll have a look tomorrow and see what i can find. Cheers

#4494 1 year ago

DikkRambone -
Search this thread - I had the same issue, and I found a bad connection on a Z plug. I think I documented it on this thread.

#4495 1 year ago

Found it - post #3780

Chalky -

You have a break in line somewhere. Verify you have the twelve volts on the lower lamps - keep working your way back toward the backbox until you find your voltage, then you will know where the issue is.

Also verify the power is going thru the Z connector - that's where I had an issue.

#4496 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Found it - post #3780
Chalky -
You have a break in line somewhere. Verify you have the twelve volts on the lower lamps - keep working your way back toward the backbox until you find your voltage, then you will know where the issue is.
Also verify the power is going thru the Z connector - that's where I had an issue.

billc479
So yeah...not sure how I missed it the first time. Half the Z connector is burned to a crisp lol. It was facing in and I thought it was just pen markings on the connector as some of my connectors have been tagged. Nope, fried. Followed it all the way back to the PPB and the connector there is fried to a crisp on the underside where it locks and was HOT. Disconnected everything and saw that the PPB must have been previously repaired as those jumper pin headers were clearly resoldered poorly on the back side which caused a worse short. So I sucked it up and ordered a new PPB. I'll have to rebuild all the connectors on this harness but hopefully when I plug the new board in the backbox and the missing GI lights will all work again.

#4497 1 year ago

Glad you found the problem. On mine, the burned pins on the Z connector were not obvious.

#4498 1 year ago

Anyone know what type of machine screws that are used for the clear ball return guides? The long ones. Cant find anything in the manual.

#4499 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

My first try at clear coated cabinet and cutting my own decals.
Still needs to be color sanded and buffed but should flatten out nicely.
[quoted image]

If I ever get another JP, I am going to have to hit you up to make the cabinet look that amazing!

1 week later
#4500 1 year ago

Just installed an Xpin Power Board into my JP. Been having issues with the sound cutting out. A local pinball group suggested replacing the stock powerboard with an Xpin one, since the stock DE ones have issues. Guess the 12v on the stock one is pretty flaky, which is why I get sound cutting out.

Just got the Xpin board today, installed it, and so far so good.

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