They probably used a bunch. The also used the jeeps in Jurassic World.

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newest member! I’ve wanted this machine for a long time and finally found a nice on in MN. Anyone know of more scoop light mods are coming out? I want a set and they seem
To be out everywhere.

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I'm pleased to hear that you're interested in the scoop light mods — sorry they're out of stock! I only stock them through my own store at loopcombo.com, not through other vendors.

I should have the remainder of the parts I need to make more sets available within the next week or two. PM me if you want to be notified when they're in stock

Hi you can look here , my scoop mod for JP
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/yoyokopter-mod-development-and-reviews-thread#post-4335372
Contact me if you are interested

put 2 mods on my jurrasic park so far and I'm very happy with them especially the velociraptor on raptor kickback

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Sorta off-topic. While I'm not SUPER excited for the new Jurassic World, I will go see it though. What is more exciting though is all the Jurassic Park stuff coming out. Just pre-ordered the Jurassic World Evolution on Steam. This game looks great. And looks like there's plenty of JP stuff in it and not just JW.

Also finally found two Wounded Malcolm Funco Pop figures. My first and only Funko purchase, other than the rest of the JP set.

It's now been 3 years since owning my JP machine. I coincidentally got it the week Jurassic World came out.

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That is hilarious!

I recommend checking out the PAPO raptor if you're not aware of it. It looks more like the JP raptor, in my opinion. Their line of toys look to have been modeled off of JP dinos and they tend to look better than licensed JP toys available on the shelves right now. I don't think they have a fanned-out dilophosaurus, though.

It's your game, so do what you want, but I think there are better looking dinos out there if that's what you're into.

I recommend at least saving up for the 3-D printed gate. Either static or moving doors, but anything other than a flat plastic. Instantly makes that area pop. There was something else in that picture that could be changed out too...but you'd have to ^^^ take that up with whomever that might be ^^^.

nice i havnt seen these before. what store sells papo toys

Amazon

That's pretty cryptic for anyone not in the know. Please don't start flare-up in that other thread...

Think of all the early solid state pins you could buy!

...unrelated, I still need to get ColorDMD for this game...

I really would love a t rex mod if you do ever make anymore my friend

I've been trying to dial in my t-rex mod for quite some time. Never wants to swallow the ball.

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Im still having issues as well. Just havent had the time to put into it.

I did a couple of things.
1. The teeth need to be bent out pretty far to scoop the ball.
2. I put a small pad under the jaw plunger to help the mouth close just a bit when the trex stands up
3. I then bend the top of the mouth down a so there is just enough clearance for the ball to go between the teeth when the trex goes to eat it. This may sound weird but by bending it down, you are creating and inverted wedge (ramp) that will force the ball back to the back of the throat when the lower jaw comes up to bite.

I'm sure there are other ideas but this has been rock solid for me.

I noticed there was a large hole in the jaw where the lever connects to the jaw. I put a small tie wrap through the top of the hole so the lever was tighter in the hole.

Yeah. I think it's pretty standard to have the hole made larger due to wear. I actually replaced mine.

Thanks very much Lonzo I'll give this a try!
-Adam

If someone has a minute, could you tell me how much play the plastic VUK part has?

Occasionally mine will just start firing the solenoid. The switch seems good. I cannot reproduce it on demand. No switch errors.

However, the plastic part has a lot of horizontal wiggle / play (when playfield is down). Wondering if normal...

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Thank you so much Lonzo I put a small Pad (used on legs of chairs) below the Jaw Plunger like you said now my T-Rex chomps! Rock on!

Has one of my T-rexes made it to Canada or were you having an issue on the stock T-rex?

The improved T-rex thread has a video with directions, and I think I mention in it that additional padding under the plunger can help, as well as a method for knowing if you've bent the jaw tabs out enough.

You can test it with just the top peice of the t-rex installed. Start with just the jaw frame installed without the jaw piece screwed on. If the t-rex is all the way down with the nose touching the PF, you should be able to manually push in the jaw plunger and get the ball fully into the mouth without it getting stuck in the tabs. If not, take the jaw out and bend them out more. This is demonstrated in the video along with how to test in the full range of left/right of center where the center switch is clicked on.

I know the last time I messed with my VUK, both the one that came with the machine, and the one I replaced it with had quite a bit of wiggle.

I'd just say it's probably your switch just set too sensitive. But can't really give you any details of which direction you need to go and how much.

But I do see that you're missing a third clamp on the VUK. You've got two metal bands on there now. A third probably won't make a difference, just as long as it covers the pin that holds the ball catcher to the shaft.

Thanks @woody24. Good to know the wiggle is normal. I'll proceed to make some small tweaks to the switch.

... Altan

Hi @altan,

It looks like you are missing one compression spring on your VUK which likely accounts for some of the slop/play that you are seeing with this mechanism. See the photo below of the VUK on my JP.

Also, I had a very similar issue with a VUK on my TFTC. Review this thread as it appears to be the same type of issue. I ended up purchasing a compression ring kit from Marco and installing it which fixed the issue 100 percent on my TFTC.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tftc-vuk-issue

Gord

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@grb1959 thanks! Great info too. I'm going to start by tweaking the switch. If that doesn't work, I'll buy that Macro replacement kit. Everything "seems" to work great when I'm checking it out... but then something goes wonky occasionally while playing.

There was also a comment about checking how the VUK switch wire makes its way back the the plunger switch and making sure that's a solid connection too... I'll check that out.

Hello fellow Jurassic Park owners! Would anyone mind looking under their playfield and telling me where these wires go? The are attached to either side of a diode on the small diode board in the center of the pictures. By their color, I'm thinking they are switch-matrix related, but I can't find any switch nearby with missing wire(s). They were just hanging under the playfield when I bought the game. Situated kind of equi-distant between the pop bumper and the two under-playfield relay boards. Any help would be appreciated!

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I don't have a diode there, but it appears white/green is for the switch matrix. Any switches not working? Looks like it came from that Z connector. Mine has a white/green wire connected to green/white wire at one end.

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Thanks again for the thoughts, guys.

Turns out the simple solution worked. The switch just needed some adjustment. I was able to reproduce the problem AND keep the problem happening while I opened up the playfield last night. I'd not been successful before.

Turns out the switch was just sensitive enough that it could be activated when no balls was on the piston. This didn't happen all that often, but still occurred.

The switch is held by two screws + nuts and there is some adjustment available. I was able to loosen the screws/nuts and adjust the mounting so the switch is less sensitive.

... Altan

Neal W - Thanks for the response and picture. I checked every switch in the white/green row, all work fine. The fact that your game doesn't have the diode board makes me suspect that perhaps this was for an option that was never used, and the wiring was later eliminated. Just a guess. My manufacture date is July 12, 1993 stamped on the bottom edge of the playfield.

PBJunkie See my pic. I don't have that board w/diode ... but it looks like it was there once because of the screw hole! Interesting.IMG_0091 (resized).jpg

If it’s the center scoop switch then the remote diode was a change to later games because the force of the ball hitting the scoop would eventually break the diode. Should be an easy trace. From what I remember the white wires go to the switch. I guess they got lazy and didn’t use the colored wire to continue past the diode. I am not where I can look at my machine but that’s what I remember from my restore.

If all of the switches work then I am not sure what the extra wires are for unless it was hacked at some point.

fixing my typo - that should say white/green goes to white/green.

If your a fan of Jurassic Park, check out the new simulation/strategy game - Jurassic World Evolution. I'm pretty occupied with pinball and other PC games, so I just watch the pros play on twitch, but it looks awesome!!

https://www.twitch.tv/directory/game/Jurassic%20World%20Evolution

Highlights --

Take charge of operations on the legendary islands of the Muertes archipelago and bring the wonder, majesty and danger of dinosaurs to life. Build for Science, Entertainment or Security interests in an uncertain world where life always finds a way.

Bioengineer dinosaurs that think, feel and react intelligently to the world around them. Play with life itself to give your dinosaurs unique behaviors, traits and appearances, then contain and profit from them to fund your global search for lost dinosaur DNA.

Control the big picture with deep management tools or go hands-on to confront challenges on the ground or in the air. Expand your islands and choose your own journey in an all-new narrative featuring iconic characters from across the franchise and decades of Jurassic lore at your fingertips.

Think I have about 15 hours logged on Steam. The one disappointment I have with it is the lack of Driver-less Ford Explorer sight-seeing track. I wanted to build the original park.

But they'll probably release that as DLC later.

LOL, that would be cool. You can build a track for the hamster balls from Jurassic World, so the Explorer track should be easy to add or maybe a mod.

Probably an aviary and aquarium DLC in the works.

Referring to https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/65#post-3700301

I finally got around to fixing my scoop post lamps. The original bulbs had melted the sockets slightly and new bulbs would no longer stay in the sockets firmly. I would end up having to go fishing for fallen bulbs every few games or so. I traced the melted sockets as the source of frying a transistor on the lamp matrix too. I fixed that previously but I've had two of these sockets disconnected since.

So after about a year I've finally fixed these socketsSo after about a year I've finally fixed these sockets

Drilling out the rivetsDrilling out the rivets

All new and prettyAfter poping new rivets back in, all new & pretty. This is the socket part I'm using #A-12887: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=294

The original wire connectors were too lose on these replacement sockets so I had to solder the wires in. I may regret that later on but at least I know they won't come unpluggedThe original wire connectors were too lose on these replacement sockets so I had to solder the wires in. I may regret that later on but at least I know they won't come unplugged

I checked the wiring about six times before soldering. Removing the solder on here will be a nightmareI checked the wiring about six times before soldering. Removing the solder on here will be a nightmare

I also changed out my cheap PBL rubber caps with ones much more like the original. I'm using the thick rubber caps over my LEDs. I also changed out my cheap PBL rubber caps with ones much more like the original. I'm using the thick rubber caps over my LEDs.

Old caps on the left, new thicker caps on the rightOld caps on the left, new thicker caps on the right

I replaced 4 of the 6 sockets. I wasn't having trouble with the remaining original sockets. The job was simple enough so I'll likely order more sockets next time I order parts from PBLI replaced 4 of the 6 sockets. I wasn't having trouble with the remaining original sockets. The job was simple enough so I'll likely order more sockets next time I order parts from PBL

keywords: melted lamp socket, bulb falling out, #555 control room

Played a few games and the bulbs are holding strong in their new sockets. Anyways, just an FYI post in case anyone else is having this problem.

Was helping a friend diagnose a flipper issue on a JP, and wouldn't you know it, mine started acting up when I played later!! That flipper circuit sure is convoluted with the blinking LEDs on the solid state flipper board and the signal running across 4 boards.

Is there a simplified flipper circuit diagram for data east that shows an overview and what signals to expect?

In my case the LED1 for the LR flipper was not blinking and the flipper coil was only getting the hold current when activated. After confirming the wiring at the flipper button switch, EOS switch and coil were OK, the connectors were secure, and the fuses were good, I took some readings, and finally I examined the flipper board. With a lot of searching and close inspection, I found 2 transistors (Q4 and Q?) that had been bumped and pushed over, resulting in poor solder joints that needed repair, and I reflowed the connector headers on the board for good measure and was back in business.

I got a bit sidetracked when taking measurements to troubleshoot, since the signals across the whole board bounce a bit when you fire any flipper, and of coarse pressing the right flipper button also activates the UR flipper, so I finally put a card in the UR flipper switch to keep it from firing when I was checking the LR flipper circuit and started over with the measurements. Others have noted that the flipper board is in a bad position in the cab, and can get bumped, and really clobbered if the playfield gets dropped inside the cab.

Nice! Peter is a great guy to deal with.

Does anybody have a picture of how the topper attaches to the bracket on the top of the backbox? I finally broke down and bought a repro topper, but I can't for the life of me work out how it can attach to the bracket. That is unless I actually drill holes in the topper, which I'm hesitant to do.

Hello everyone,

I am on my way to join JP club... I don't know the pin at all, never seen in person. My son is a fan of Jurassic movies, now you have an idea of my direction.
Going to check one pin within days. Can you give me some hint what to check in this pin, any pin specific/sensitive part, any unobtainable part...

Thanks in advance.

Most important is to check Full functionality of the trex. A broken motor can set you back easily usd 100. There are two motors, for up down and 1 for left right. And original plastics are also rare. There are repro’s made however. But than some color differences can be expected.

For the rest just the usual as with other pins.

Below are a couple of photos of my topper attached to my JP. The JP topper is attached with 4 screws as shown in the photo. There is no bracket as the metal piece is a light reflector for the light flashers behind it.

Gord

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Fantastic - this is perfect! Thanks much.

Thanks! Is the Trex body itself available (or any mod)?

You may still be able to track down original bodies, or at least some parts of it, but I would suggest not buying a game with missing parts unless you're getting a really good deal.

They're rarely available and only in the US, but there is an updated T-rex body. I'm the one who makes it.

And he ^ is the man. It looks amazing. I have #8