The T-rex motor pulsing was fixed (changed) back in 5.01, not even sure if it's noticeable to the player unless they already have motors that were on the edge of failing. I'm thinking it's a physical issue of some sort....the T-Rex assembly can be very finicky. From page 25 of the manual..I would check the behaviour of your TOP switch and make sure it's working/being triggered correctly...

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T-rex has been working really well lately, probably eating 14/15 or so. On league night he started getting full and failing on 4/5. It's in the up/down part of the process, he seems to have a moment of hesitation about halfway down and ends up not getting all the way over the pinball before chomping, or chomping then running his face into the pinball. What should I be looking for? I seem to remember there being a guide out there but I couldn't find it with google or pinside search.

Looking for a nice back panel plastic. I have a reproduction (non CPR) but would be interested in an original or CPR if someone has one.

Thanks

Did you try it in test mode? First check is to see if the switches are triggered at the right position.

Looking for a decent, gently used plastic ramp (I know....like everyone else). Mine has a crack at the entrance and the repair job on it is a hot mess. It's also broken in the upper right corner. Honestly I'd be happy with anything that looks better than mine...some cracks are fine. I can't believe no one can make a replacement ramp for this game. Please PM me if you have a spare.

He seems to be switching correctly at the bottom but still chomps early in game anyways

The "down" switch definitely isn't getting hit until he is at the bottom, but he is still chomping early. Why would this be? Something in the code to bite after X seconds if the down switch isn't activated?

The reason he's hesitating on the way down is the crank arm is wallowed out at the t-rex side. Does anyone have an extra one laying around? I wasn't able to find one using the part number or name.

Oh no! I just realized JP uses the spelling "STEGASAUR" which should really be STEGOSAUR, I believe.

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... Altan

That is why they failed as a company.

So my trex was actually being slowed down by running into the plastic at his side. Bent the metalform away and he's chomping away again. This was of course hours after screwing with the other parts.

How much side to side play should there be in the trex?

I recently had all my board serviced after a failure and decided to test my left/right again.

In game my rex fails to stop in the middle. It is like it overshoots and then by the time it goes back the other way over shoots again.
This repeats a few times until the code gives up.

When manually checking to see how the centre switch is operating I find that I can move the entire mech side to side by about 1/2"
This mean the switch and be in both the on and off position depending on the direction of travel.

Hmmm

There is for sure some slack as I have had the same experience. 1/2 inch sounds like a little to much. With me the problem was that the screw which holds the assy to the motor was loose. Perhaps with you to? Make sure you use some loctite other wise you will have to do this tightening again soon

Mine has no slack at all. Rock solid when you touch it. I don't think there should be any. It's a gear box. If you have meovevemnt then something is not right.

Joined the club last week. Finally can see the ball when playing. Here's before and after.

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What the...!?!?!?!

Yeah that white looks 100% better!! Nice job in getting rid of the rainbow puke! Lol

Normally I defend leds if they are used properly such as color matched inserts. Even I must admit though that looks awful. What you did is way better.

Wow that is some of the worst clown puke I have ever scene. I have one LED in the backbox of my JP, a single white in the sun. The JP translight hot spots like crazy. Do the pinstadiums reflect that badly off the ramp to the naked eye?

This isn't a "Pinstadium" kit, it's one I made to just light up the playfield and isn't connected to the GI and flashers. Any LED strips will show reflections off of the plastics or ramps underneath them. JP isn't too bad ,you do see some reflection off the left ramp return and on the plastic cover on the right side of the game. When playing you do not see any reflections on the playfield since the lights are facing directly down.

Another benefit of the side lighting is that it greatly reduces any glare on the glass from outside light sources and makes the glass appear almost invisible. Just a few minutes ago I printed new instruction cards and I thought the glass was off the game a rapped my knuckles on the glass.

It looks good, I don't have the plastic cover on mine on the right side. I tend to take that stuff off at home, I'm not very competitive with pinball so I prefer the clean look even if I get the odd ball stuck. I have the trough lit on mine and its not connect to the GI or Flashers, these DE are so flashy you need a little constant lighting to even them out. I think I'll have to give the home version a try, where did you get the angle brackets?

You can buy angle aluminum strips at Home Depot under the name Everbilt. Located in the aisle with chains, rope, nails, bolts.

Amazon also sells PVC angle strips.

Slightly off topic

Did you ever find a way to tie it in to the gi? I guess you could get the 6 volt led strip, but that stuff is more expensive. Certain games like junkyard and scared stiff have the lights go off as part of the game

I did buy a relay kit or something to tie the kits to the GI but haven't tried them yet.

You can buy for a few dollars a step up converter on eBay plus a bridge rectifier to convert the AC to DC befor the converter and power it direct from GI. On this way you convert 6,3 VAC to DC to 12 VDC. In that case no relay required.

That's what I bought, couldn't remember what exactly I bought. Have to solder the kit together and just haven't done it yet.

I had the same problem with one of my Jurassic Parks, 100% you have a worn wire going to t-Rex. The wire is broken and only break contact when t-rex moves to a certain spot, it causes a momentary break causing him to cough. Normal continuity test with a multi meter doesn’t detect the fault. From memory mine was the white wire, replace the wires connected to t-Rex they just wear out with the movement over time. Very frustrating fault!!

Here's the stadium style lighting in cool white LEDs instead of the warm white strips.

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These bulbs are on solid. Red Brown is the wire on all of them. Any ideas? I don’t see any obvious shorts and I’ve wiggled along the wire looking for a flicker or something.

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First thought Transistor on pcb/cpu check for shorts. Look up the red/brown wire on chart in manual it will say what driver/transistor it is. Then check for shorts.

With the CN6, Lamp Return, connector disconnected, all the controled lamps are supposed to be off. But those bulbs are still on. Does that mean that it's not on the board or it is? My guess is that its being grounded somehwere. I'm just not sure where.

Just wanted to share that as part of cleaning / fixing my JP, I recently adjusted the left ramp diverter. Now the ball goes flying down the ramp and diverts across the playfield at full speed. However, it does this so fast that 25% of the time when it hits the end of the habittrail, it ends up bouncing out the open left side and roles down the top of the slingshot plastic.

So now I need to either (1) adjust the diverter so it's not quite as fast or (2) figure out a way to dampen the ball at the end of the habittrail.

What have others done?

... Altan

I am having this issue and usually goes out the right outlane...VERY ANNOYING! I've thought about getting the rubbers that just barely fit around the wireform. Not sure what size those are called. But one day I'll get around to trying it. Would this be size 0?

Yup, I have adjusted my diverter and bent it to a hook shape to help the ball make it across the wireform, but sometimes they still fall off the beginning of the wireform on mine and head for the right outlane. I have not had the problem where the ball reaches the end of the wireform and then hits the outlane.

Just looking a mine again and noticed that the point where the plastic meets the wireform is not a straight shot. I wonder if I could warm up the lower side of the plastic ramp and bend it in a little??

Never Mind

Anyone know where the 2nd "smart bomb" light is on the playfield? I'm referring to lamp 64.

The manual says "smart bomb x2", meaning there should be two bulbs. I can only find a single bulb under the smart bomb light just above the flippers. Maybe this is a mistake in the manual? Or there is a second one hiding somewhere...

... Altan

Ha! Figured it out... The 2nd lamp is under the big button on the launcher handle!! I was looking on the playfield...

As a test, I cut a 1/8" wide piece of the fuzzy side of velcro and stuck it (using the adhesive on the back) to the LEFT side of the habit trail ending. This solved the problem. (Interestingly, putting it on the right, which I did first, made it much worse!)

I'm going to try other solutions, but wanted to share.

Thanks for that...we have plenty of velcro for cable management at work and never throught to try that!

Hey Fellow Jurassic Park Friends. I've been slowly getting the gremlins out of my JP and I'm happy to say that it's now playing 100% and is "dialed in". I've also completed 95% of the upper playfield "shop" job... It's looking good! Below are a couple of pics. Also, more details about what I've done to my JP are on my site (http://www.aaarpinball.com/JurassicPark/JP.htm).

Below are a couple of pics...

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Tech / Behavior question. There is a spotlight on the back of the "shoot the t-rex box". This is the box that is in front of the T-Rex and has a lamp matrix lamp on the top and a flasher on the back.

There is a spotlight there too... but mine doesn't work. I suspect it is GI? However, the Jurassic Park manual doesn't seem to admit that this light exists. At least on page 36 "Lamp Bulb Park Numbers".

... Altan

Yep, it's GI.

Is there a way to turn the t-Rex off and on?

Adjustment 45 (TREX Move Left - Right)
Adjustment 46 (TREX Eat Balls)

I have recently become a new Jurassic Park owner but the on off switch is missing and I would like to replace. Can anyone tell me if it uses a toggle or a square switch? The hole on the bottom of the cabinet is round but so is another machine of mine that has a square switch. Thanks

Hey, that was fast! It’s a toggle switch.

Tech question...I made the score leader board last night but couldn't get my initials to register with my flippers for some reason. I am running the newer code...does that have something to do with it? Flippers obviously work fine when playing.

Did you ever figure this out?

There's a good thread discussing JP black:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/recommendations-for-jurssic-park-black-cabinet-paint-match

But couldn't find anything on Pinside about the red or yellow JP cab paint.

What do you guys think of these speaker decals?

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those look great, good job!

New JP owner. How do I know if I have the latested update rom from chad? How would I get it if I don't have it? Thanks.

Scroll up to the top of this page and talk to Matt aka Meloyelo51. He’ll take care of you