(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,284 posts
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  • Latest reply 33 minutes ago by silen7ce
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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56 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7284 posts in this topic. You are on page 86 of 146.
#4251 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Now I got also today an assy from a friend and when I compare mine has a spring and his not. My theory is that the spring was designed later to protect the motor. Anybody an idea? How dangerous would it be to use the construction without spring ?

Pictured below are a couple of photos of my JP for your reference.

Gord

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#4252 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I kinda wish the second one didnt have dinosaur silhouettes, just the grass, trees, and basckdrop....

Buy the 3rd one...

#4253 2 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Pictured below are a couple of photos of my JP for your reference.
Gord

Thanks. Looks like my spring it thicker and it is touching the housing of the left right motor. This brings extra resistance and blocks the trex going up down.

At least, this is my theory .....

Will need to find a new spring and try it out.

#4254 2 years ago

So made myself a new spring with a long end on one side so it doesn’t touch the left right motor.

Trex is back in action, hopefully now for longer than 2 hours .....

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#4255 2 years ago

Finally got my JP up and running. It sat in someones storage for the last 3 years so took some work to put Humpty back together. Also installed LEDs, Alex's 6.0 rom, Tim's moving gate mod, Pinball Pro speakers, Color DMD & Pinsound with Endprodukts genius re-orchestration. Shot a minute or two of gameplay, sorry about the nasty reflection.

#4256 2 years ago

Curious if anyone knows the reason for the narrow bracket that overhangs the narrow green target just to the right of the center scoop? Is it protection for air balls or does it serve another purpose?

Thanks

#4258 1 year ago

I like the first one, but good grief 120 bucks after shipping is a bit much for inner art IMO. Anyone know if this product might show up at TPF?

#4259 1 year ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

I like the first one, but good grief 120 bucks after shipping is a bit much for inner art IMO. Anyone know if this product might show up at TPF?

GBP to USD exchange rate has gone parabolic the last few weeks. But RR are still cheaper than some other European suppliers of inner art:

Ministry of Pinball: $97 USD
Retro Refurbs: $89 USD

#4260 1 year ago

Just listed my JP if anyone in the Midwest is looking. Heck also willing to ship.

Archived after 12 days
829 views
Not sold: Decided to keep game
Machine - For Sale
Fully shopped/refurbished “Wife tells me tonight she wants a Baywatch, love to sell but open to a Baywatch plus cash. Reduced price as I would really like to find this a new home due a new purchase. Sellin...”
2018-01-30
Lake Villa, IL
3,000 (OBO)

#4261 1 year ago

Installed a RasPiSound system today. Interesting product. Works like pinsound but at 1/3 of the cost. However, pinsound is much more plug and play as this one. If you are not a hobbyist Pinsound is better choice.

If you are a DIY guy like me who likes to fiddle and considers that a part of the hobby this is an option.

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#4262 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Installed a RasPiSound system today. Interesting product. Works like pinsound but at 1/3 of the cost. However, pinsound is much more plug and play as this one. If you are not a hobbyist Pinsound is better choice.
If you are a DIY guy like me who likes to fiddle and considers that a part of the hobby this is an option.

Where did you find this?

#4263 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Installed a RasPiSound system today. Interesting product. Works like pinsound but at 1/3 of the cost. However, pinsound is much more plug and play as this one. If you are not a hobbyist Pinsound is better choice.
If you are a DIY guy like me who likes to fiddle and considers that a part of the hobby this is an option.

Wow... can you install pinsound files on this?

#4264 1 year ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rebuilding-sound-for-de-jurassic-park-using-a-pi

It's similar to Pinsound, eg you can use your own WAV's etc.. You can download the Pinsound sundsets and try to use them. Apparently Pinsound is nowadays scrambling their stuff so ID's pointing to the proper Wav's can be wrong.

I dont blame them, they have all the right to do so allthough the Pinsound forum is from the community and doesnt belong to Pinsound as far as I know. Anyway, again, this is not a solution for people not prepared to fiddle like me and Pinsound has all the right to protect their work. Pinsound is a great product and this DIY project is more for the fun of it in my opinion than a thread to Pinsound. I think Pinsound started off very similar to this product and has developed in a mature Plug&Play solution.

See also

#4265 1 year ago

Newbie here. I have a JP that the trex doesn't chomp the ball. I have scoured the forums, and found out that the wires for the coil will break. So I rewired both wires and still not working. Poking around and I noticed a loose wire (it is a solid green wire, that connects to coil...can somebody tell me where it goes?). I read other topics that to ground out any loose wires. I did that and still not working. Now I also have other coils not working, so I checked fuses and all of the fuses that I checked are good. Sorry I can't remember exactly which coils are not working. So anyway, where do I go from here? Thanks in advance....

Mike

#4266 1 year ago

nice site

#4267 1 year ago
Quoted from MisterBiscuit:

Newbie here. I have a JP that the trex doesn't chomp the ball. I have scoured the forums, and found out that the wires for the coil will break. So I rewired both wires and still not working. Poking around and I noticed a loose wire (it is a solid green wire, that connects to coil...can somebody tell me where it goes?). I read other topics that to ground out any loose wires. I did that and still not working. Now I also have other coils not working, so I checked fuses and all of the fuses that I checked are good. Sorry I can't remember exactly which coils are not working. So anyway, where do I go from here? Thanks in advance....
Mike

I don't think you want to ground out random wires. That's probably why your coils stopped working.

#4268 1 year ago

There is a green with a very light tracer... (grey maybe? ) that attaches to the up / down limit switch, is that what you're looking for? I don't see solid green near trex.

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#4269 1 year ago
Quoted from MisterBiscuit:

Newbie here. I have a JP that the trex doesn't chomp the ball. I have scoured the forums, and found out that the wires for the coil will break. So I rewired both wires and still not working. Poking around and I noticed a loose wire (it is a solid green wire, that connects to coil...can somebody tell me where it goes?). I read other topics that to ground out any loose wires. I did that and still not working. Now I also have other coils not working, so I checked fuses and all of the fuses that I checked are good. Sorry I can't remember exactly which coils are not working. So anyway, where do I go from here? Thanks in advance....
Mike

pictures would help

#4270 1 year ago

Yes I am sure that it is a solid green wire. I will post some pics either tonight or tomorrow....thanks

#4271 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

All those cpr orders and no extra plastics? I really just need the left but I’d buy both so the colors match better!!

still looking for a left blue original slingshot plastic in blue... I'll keep holding out before I go to pinball center and the hassle of shipping to a forwarder...

#4272 1 year ago

here are some of the pictures for JP T-Rex coil. The solid green wire goes through the connecter and is connected to the solid black wire to the coil. I have checked the resistance of the coil, both from lead to lead and lead to ground, and both confirm that the coil is good. I am also getting 28v at both sides of the coil.

I just need to know where the solid green wire connects to. (yes it is a solid green wire, I have checked it several times and even used a second set of eyes)

Thanks again

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#4273 1 year ago

I have a problem with the t rex jaw. I have replaced the wires that go to the coil, and still not working. I have 28 volts from both leads at the closest connector to the coil. I have checked the resistance through the coil and through to ground, and everything checks good. I just have a solid green wire that is loose. It connects to the black wire to the coil. I would like somebody to please check their machine and let me know where I need to solder/connect it to. Thanks, Mike

#4274 1 year ago

Would anyone happen to have a scan or digital file of the ramp flap?

#4275 1 year ago

What to do on a Saturday afternoon ?

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#4276 1 year ago

Have a friend with a jp. Dinosaur moves all the way to the left with flipper button in test mode, but can't get him to move back to the right. He goes up and down, jaw moves. I looked at the wiring, nothing broken off, diodes in place.

In test mode, shows the left switch is on, whihj makes sense since he all the way left and switch is engsged. everything else is off.

Not familiar with the game, where do we start?

#4277 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Have a friend with a jp. Dinosaur moves all the way to the left with flipper button in test mode, but can't get him to move back to the right. He goes up and down, jaw moves. I looked at the wiring, nothing broken off, diodes in place.
In test mode, shows the left switch is on, whihj makes sense since he all the way left and switch is engsged. everything else is off.
Not familiar with the game, where do we start?

There’s a relay board beneath the play field that controls the left/right motion. Reflow the solder in that board and you should be good to go. Start with that and report back.

#4278 1 year ago

Anyone have a spare of this plastic part they're willing to sell? (the one with the leaves)

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#4279 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Anyone have a spare of this plastic part they're willing to sell? (the one with the leaves)

I do send me a pm.

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#4280 1 year ago

Guys, I'd like to welcome myself to the club! I ended up buying a JP machine in November that popped up on a Facebook forum for fairly cheap and was luckily the first to person to show interest in it. The machine was dead on purchase and would not turn on. I finally got time to look into it and restored the power supply with new caps and redid all the fuse clips... And the machine is back from extinction! Also had a issue with a bad tip36 causing the raptor pit coil to be stuck on. All of that is now fixed, and the game is up and running great.

I got extremely lucky as the playfield is immaculate and the cabinet is in pretty good shape. I don't believe this game seen much playtime at all as the playfield scoops aren't worn and there was no dust anywhere on the playfied. I'm thinking somebody had issues with the fuse clips, causing the game to not work, and packed the machine away for the past 20 something years.

I do have one question. Are many people seeing much wear in the center of the playfield? I installed one of those plexi playfield protectors on the machine and I can see from 50 or so games on the machine a bunch of scratches on the playfield protector. The game has all new balls so it's not caused from worn balls. I'm just thinking that the Choas multi ball is extremely rough on the playfield. I have playfield protectors on all my other machines and never really noticed that many scratches in the playfield protector so quickly.

#4281 1 year ago

Could someone do me a favor? I need a picture of the switch that is attached to the ramp in the top left corner. I am pretty sure mine is no original and rigged up and I would like to put it back the way it is supposed to be. I could not get a good enough picture of the switch on IPBD.

Thanks

#4282 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Could someone do me a favor? I need a picture of the switch that is attached to the ramp in the top left corner. I am pretty sure mine is no original and rigged up and I would like to put it back the way it is supposed to be. I could not get a good enough picture of the switch on IPBD.
Thanks

Hi Lonny,

Hopefully these photos are what you need.

Gord

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#4283 1 year ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

Are many people seeing much wear in the center of the playfield? I installed one of those plexi playfield protectors on the machine and I can see from 50 or so games on the machine a bunch of scratches on the playfield protector.

Not really. The most wear is in the shooter lane and scoops, and a bit on the T-REX and boat dock saucer on mine.

Welcome to the club!

#4284 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Not really. The most wear is in the shooter lane and scoops, and a bit on the T-REX and boat dock saucer on mine.
Welcome to the club!

Thanks Gord. I guess mine was right. I just thought that lever was messed up but I guess that was the design. lol

#4285 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Have a friend with a jp. Dinosaur moves all the way to the left with flipper button in test mode, but can't get him to move back to the right. He goes up and down, jaw moves. I looked at the wiring, nothing broken off, diodes in place.
In test mode, shows the left switch is on, whihj makes sense since he all the way left and switch is engsged. everything else is off.
Not familiar with the game, where do we start?

Did you install the latest 6.0 code? After installing the Rom I noticed my trex moved really slow and would get hung up moving to his left. It's probably mentioned here in the past but with the new code the motor is pulsed to move slower to save the motor. The old code the trex would get full village and move quickly.

Anyways I ended up taking the two screws off the plate that sits in front of him off and inspecting the way he moves. The roller assembly grease was no longer grease and was as sticky as honey. I used some alcohol and removed all the grease from the top and underside of the plate and relubed with a synthetic silicone grease. Next I removed the motor and used a needle filled with alcohol to squirt some alcohol in the holes where the brushes sit. Spun the motor a few times to clean up the brushes and then let it sit for the alcohol to dry. I left the gearbox installed on the machine but squirted some alcohol in the gearbox and use some qtips while I spun the head left to right to remove as much of the softened grease that I could. Then shot some silicone grease in for the gears. Reinstalled everything and now trex is moving side to side with no issues.

I would of liked to disassemble the gearbox but I was limited on time and everything seemed to workout. Also make sure when you reinstall the plate in front of the trex make sure it's not hanging up on him. Mine was missing the original spacers, so I just used multiple washers until it was high enough to not hang up on it anymore.

#4286 1 year ago

This is my first Data East game. Just wondering was my game purchased for use in Taiwan or were they building the cabinet and some of the components over there and sending it to the usa?

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#4287 1 year ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

This is my first Data East game. Just wondering was my game purchased for use in Taiwan or were they building the cabinet and some of the components over there and sending it to the usa?

Game was built for Taiwan. It's a re-import. Very common to see in all pins and definitely in DE pins. They made so many....

#4288 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

Game was built for Taiwan. It's a re-import. Very common to see in all pins and definitely in DE pins. They made so many....

Awesome, thanks! That probably explains why the playfield shows no wear. It probably wasn't played much and once the fuse clips started breaking nobody knew how to fix it and they just packed it away.

#4289 1 year ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

That probably explains why the playfield shows no wear. It probably wasn't played much and once the fuse clips started breaking nobody knew how to fix it and they just packed it away.

Generally reimports are pretty worn out and have lots of hacked repairs since foreign operators had a harder time getting parts and probably left them on route longer. Nice to hear yours is good.

Years ago, flippers would buy old games overseas and ship them back to resell, often from Europe. (72 pins in a shipping container)

#4290 1 year ago
Quoted from waynestatemac:

This is my first Data East game. Just wondering was my game purchased for use in Taiwan or were they building the cabinet and some of the components over there and sending it to the usa?

Mine's from Japan. Even still had the Japan software on it when I got it. All the language and text were still in English, it just said "Japan" when it was booted up.

#4291 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Generally reimports are pretty worn out and have lots of hacked repairs since foreign operators had a harder time getting parts and probably left them on route longer. Nice to hear yours is good.
Years ago, flippers would buy old games overseas and ship them back to resell, often from Europe. (72 pins in a shipping container)

Ouch, Luckily mine wasn't all hacked up. I know what you mean about parts available overseas! I was in the Philippines last month visiting my wife's parents and I noticed there wash machine was having issues with the water inlet solenoids stuck open. You had to manually open and close the water valves to fill the washer. I could not find a part store anywhere even in Manila. In the USA I have a major appliance parts store a mile from my house or can use eBay or Amazon and have it shipped to my door. Nothing like that over there!

#4292 1 year ago

Anybody know where I can score a new set of JP plastics? Seems like everyone in the U.S. is sold out.

#4293 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Anybody know where I can score a new set of JP plastics? Seems like everyone in the U.S. is sold out.

I checked and it looks like all of the CPR distributors worldwide are also sold out of JP plastic sets.

http://www.classicplayfields.com/distributors.html

Good luck, maybe you will find someone who is holding a spare set that will be willing to part with it. You may want to drop an email to CPR to inquire if they will run JP plastic sets again as there seems to be a market for it.

Gord

#4294 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I checked and it looks like all of the CPR distributors worldwide are also sold out of JP plastic sets.
http://www.classicplayfields.com/distributors.html
Good luck, maybe you will find someone who is holding a spare set that will be willing to part with it. You may want to drop an email to CPR to inquire if they will run JP plastic sets again as there seems to be a market for it.
Gord

Will do, thanks!

#4295 1 year ago

looking to rejoin the club. If anyone has a nice one they want to sell, PM me. Thanks!

#4296 1 year ago

One in St. Louis, Mo. Craigslist. Disclaimer: I have not seen it.

stlouis.craigslist.org link

#4297 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

One in St. Louis, Mo. Craigslist. Disclaimer: I have not seen it.
stlouis.craigslist.org link

thanks. Crack in the ramp - hard to find those. Appreciate the note.

#4298 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

thanks. Crack in the ramp - hard to find those. Appreciate the note.

I don't think I have ever seen an NOS or nice used JP large main plastic ramp for sale. That ramp would be a great candidate to have reproduced given that there were 9,008 units of this game produced.

Gord

#4299 1 year ago

What are people using to power all the mods off the service outlet? I think it's time I give my power supply some relief.

#4300 1 year ago

Does anyone have a spare plastic that goes above the kick out they'd like to sell? Mine burned from a bad coil.

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