(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • 7,264 posts
  • 423 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by PinballManiac40
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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There are 7264 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 146.
#4201 2 years ago

Successfully installed the board. Now when I try to install the Endprodukts file I get all kinds of crazy audio... I placed the filed on my USB drive per Olli's directions but I'm wondering what I might be doing wrong..?

UPDATE: I compressed it to ZIP, then it gave me the INSTALLING SOUND FILES for 5 minutes, now it says cannot find audio files
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#4202 2 years ago

(Noob alert) Is there supposed to be a red setting button here?

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#4203 2 years ago

(Noob Alert) Is there supposed to be another settings button here?

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#4204 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

(Noob alert) Is there supposed to be a red setting button here?

No, only two buttons.

As for your pinsound issue, haven't had that problem myself. Did you format the flash drive to the correct format? Then simply create a folder at the root and drop the end product folder in to there. It takes the board quite a while to unzip/reformat, like at least an hour. Make sure you downloaded the whole thing and your flash drive is big enough. Some flash drives don't work, needs to usb 3.0. I bought the same one they sell from Amazon

#4205 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

No, only two buttons.
As for your pinsound issue, haven't had that problem myself. Did you format the flash drive to the correct format? Then simply create a folder at the root and drop the end product folder in to there. It takes the board quite a while to unzip/reformat, like at least an hour. Make sure you downloaded the whole thing and your flash drive is big enough. Some flash drives don't work, needs to usb 3.0. I bought the same one they sell from Amazon

I'll get on this, appreciate the tips.

#4206 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

(Noob alert) Is there supposed to be a red setting button here?

I wish someone had explained the Data East buttons when I got my JP:

Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.

When in a menu, green in/out sets black button to show next or previous menu item when pressed.

Some higher menu items are not shown unless you loop backwards through the list, or extend list is selected.

Start button is used change the value.

Also I keep a handy list of things I change (had to set mine for tourney mode practice, and won every JP game I played at the South Carolina State Championships)

adjutment 49 attract music on/off
adjustment 4 game awards = credit -> Extra ball -> special
adjustment 46 trex eat balls = Yes
adjustment 6 limit extra balls 3 -> 0
adjustment 41 tournament => EXPO (resets audits)
audit 25 = show # of total plays

#4207 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I wish someone had explained the Data East buttons when I got my JP:
Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.
When in a menu, green in/out shows next or previous menu item when black is pressed.
Some higher menu items are not shown unless you go backwards through the list, or extend list is selected.
Start button is used change the value.
Also I keep a handy list of things I change (had to set mine for tourney mode practice, and won every JP game I played at the South Carolina State Championships)
adjutment 49 attract music on/off
adjustment 4 game awards = credit -> Extra ball -> special
adjustment 46 trex eat balls = Yes
adjustment 6 limit extra balls 3 -> 0
adjustment 41 tournament => EXPO (resets audits)
audit 25 = show # of total plays

Many thanks, this is super helpful. I've only owned B/W games and didn't realize how different DE is. Now to ask the most obvious question, how do you adjust volume?

#4208 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

how do you adjust volume?

Knob is located inside to the right, on top of the power box. (actually it is the large aluminum shaft of the volume pot sticking up)

#4210 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

I'll get on this, appreciate the tips.

Use the pinsound program on a windows PC to prep your usb stick. Much easier and faster. Just download the sound file from pinsound on your hard drive, leave it zipped and follow the direction of the pc software. Easy and only takes minutes in place of an hour ....

#4211 2 years ago

Scored some side blades from another exJP owner which I installed. Looks nice.

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#4212 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Scored some side blades from another exJP owner which I installed. Looks nice.

Woah! Who makes those??

#4213 2 years ago

Heres a helpful tip, when i installed a pin sound in my jurassic park, it kept making wonkey sounds. Long story short, turn your volume pot up a bit. Even though it was not all the way down it was close enough to keep reloading sounds. In fact turn it about half way up, and then it worked like a charm. With the factory board pot needs to be up a very little, with pin sound it seems like 1/2 way up is the bottom. Todd

#4214 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Woah! Who makes those??

Seconded. Some of the nice ones I've seen.

#4216 2 years ago

Last night I had some people over and had an odd issue. The egg would register multiple hits when struck. Three only thing I did was lift the playfield to check the switch gap and it was good, even with three captive ball resting on the target. Going to dig deeper today but anyone else had this?

#4217 2 years ago

Anyone know how to score new clear flasher domes? Mine are rotted and Marco seems to be sold out.

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#4218 2 years ago

Miss this club. Anyone looking to leave/sell in California? Downsizing my collection and hoping to get this one back...might just be the only pin I'll end up having. PM me if you have one please

#4219 2 years ago

Finally received up down motor. Now the trex goes up down no problem but doesn’t swallow the ball. First I thought trex wasn’t upright enough but it looks like it can’t go up any further.

Now I am thinking the jaw doesn’t close enough. The link appears to be OK. If I would shorten the plunger of grind the coilstop, this would give the mouth some more slack I guess. If I remove the coilstop the mouth can close further by hand.

Enclosed a picture of the jawlink which appears to be OK.

Any suggestions ?

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#4220 2 years ago

Made a picture open and closed. Anyone can tell me it closes enough?

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#4221 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Enclosed a picture of the jawlink which appears to be OK.
Any suggestions ?

I noticed the hole in the jaw had a lot of play on mine, and maybe some wear, so I looped a small black cable tie through the top of the hole. Made the hole tighter, and got T-Rex back on his normal diet.

#4222 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Anyone know how to score new clear flasher domes? Mine are rotted and Marco seems to be sold out.

Best of luck finding new ones. I ended up posting a wanted add and paid something like $30-35 for 3 used ones shipped from Eastern Europe.

#4223 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Best of luck finding new ones. I ended up posting a wanted add and paid something like $30-35 for 3 used ones shipped from Eastern Europe.

Damn for real, I replaced mine with blue domes to tone down the flash. Didn't know they were worth their weight in gold.

#4224 2 years ago

Guys I'm new to repairs and making lots of headway and was wondering what i can look for to clear up a few minor problems. First off the Left Jackpot arrow on the upper Playfield is always on ( doesn't flash or light when it should like the other ) Replace lamp? Diode bad? Also another light issue, Right inlane light is solid and never turns off or flashes when it should. The left inlane is out but i think i need a Lamp replacement ( not working with new bulbs ) Any tips or a point in the right direction would be awesome! Thanks guys.

#4225 2 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Damn for real, I replaced mine with blue domes to tone down the flash. Didn't know they were worth their weight in gold.

Actually $25 I went back and checked. It wasn’t a steal but not horrible IMO. DOMESTIC shipping is $6-8. Puts them around $5-6 each which is reasonable for what I decided was a semi unobtainium kinda part from Romania. The domed octagon wasn’t used on many games based on what I could find.

#4226 2 years ago
Quoted from lostlumberjacks:

Heres a helpful tip, when i installed a pin sound in my jurassic park, it kept making wonkey sounds. Long story short, turn your volume pot up a bit. Even though it was not all the way down it was close enough to keep reloading sounds. In fact turn it about half way up, and then it worked like a charm. With the factory board pot needs to be up a very little, with pin sound it seems like 1/2 way up is the bottom. Todd

Yup, this solved my issue. Sounds great now, big thanks!

#4227 2 years ago

Does anyone know where this rogue wire should be connected to? It's coming from the trough micro switch where the ball shoots out of into the shooter lane.

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#4228 2 years ago

I'm pretty sure that diode goes into the white and purple wires plug

#4229 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Finally received up down motor. Now the trex goes up down no problem but doesn’t swallow the ball. First I thought trex wasn’t upright enough but it looks like it can’t go up any further.
Now I am thinking the jaw doesn’t close enough. The link appears to be OK. If I would shorten the plunger of grind the coilstop, this would give the mouth some more slack I guess. If I remove the coilstop the mouth can close further by hand.
Enclosed a picture of the jawlink which appears to be OK.
Any suggestions ?

I appears your jaw link has been modified. I looks like the original piece at the very top has broken off. That is the part that is supposed to go in the jay. Your looks like a rod has been added to "fix"it. The problem is that it is at a lower position on the rod so it will not close the mouth as much. This may be your problem.

Here is a picture of my original one as a comparison
IMG_4424 (resized).JPG

#4230 1 year ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

I'm pretty sure that diode goes into the white and purple wires plug

Thanks but where is that? Can't seem to locate it. Does that wire need to connect to something in order for the sensor to work?

#4231 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Thanks but where is that? Can't seem to locate it. Does that wire need to connect to something in order for the sensor to work?

It's the first lug on the swith in yr photo. The diode has come out of that plug.
Won't be picking up drain save in multi ball without that
So first lug is white and purple with diode, third lug is diode only

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#4232 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I appears your jaw link has been modified. I looks like the original piece at the very top has broken off. That is the part that is supposed to go in the jay. Your looks like a rod has been added to "fix"it. The problem is that it is at a lower position on the rod so it will not close the mouth as much. This may be your problem.
Here is a picture of my original one as a comparison

Thanks

This is the solution. Picked up one with a friend who had one lying around and it works now.

I thought befor that the chewing was required to eat the ball but with the correct part the ball goes direct in the subway and I realize now that the chewing is just for us spectators. This had me on the wrong foot.

Great club it is. Now to get the left right movement 100% reliable. Quite noisy but apparently that is normal.

#4233 1 year ago
Quoted from FuryosJustin:

It's the first lug on the swith in yr photo. The diode has come out of that plug.
Won't be picking up drain save in multi ball without that
So first lug is white and purple with diode, third lug is diode only

Super helpful... many thanks for this!

#4234 1 year ago

So, got my trex updown working now and eating the balls with great appetite. Needed a new motor and jawlink and moves now perfect. At least for the Moment

Than left right. It appears that the gearbox has great slack. What I notice when the motor starts running is can take like 2 seconds befor trex starts moving. Also I can easily move the trex by hand left right for a stretch, easily like 2 inches. This also means the Trex doesn’t remain fixed on mid position but moves from it due to shaking of the pinball.

Is this normal? I got another gearbox with the pinball but quality unknown (yet). When I move the axis of this spare gearbox by hand I can see the internal gears moving immediate.

So wanna try to swap the gearbox tonight but touching base here to see what is normal. If this slack is normal I know has no sense in trying to improve it.....

#4235 1 year ago

I'm not sure about the slack but trex is supposed to move left and right with each chew after eating a ball if that's what you're talking about.

#4236 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

It appears that the gearbox has great slack.

I don't think there should be slack. Maybe something is just loose. When centered, mine stays centered.

Quoted from Chalkey:

trex is supposed to move left and right with each chew after eating a ball

Moves while chomping?? I have never seen a JP do that. Check youtube.

#4237 1 year ago

Has anyone ever taken apart a left/right gearbox? Or at least greased one really good. Mine works, but seems sluggish

#4238 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I don't think there should be slack. Maybe something is just loose. When centered, mine stays centered.

Moves while chomping?? I have never seen a JP do that. Check youtube.

When I saw moving while chomping I don’t mean left right motor starts running but you can imagine if there is slack in the gearbox trex can move without motor turning. If it just moves a few mm (movement left right is disabled in settings) it will drop off the centerswitch and trex will no longer go up-down.

#4239 1 year ago

I took my left/right box apart. It's not hard. Remove box, drill out rivets, take photo of how gears are. My grease was all dried out and crusty, cleaned it all up and regreased. When you install, the screws that hold gearbox in will also hold gearbox together, so you don't need to replace rivets on reassembly, I held it together with duct tape until installed
Shouldn't be too much slack in trex left right

#4240 1 year ago

Today I DESTROYED my previous high score. SO CLOSE to 1 billion!!!

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#4241 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Today I DESTROYED my previous high score. SO CLOSE to 1 billion!!!

Nice!

#4242 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

When I saw moving while chomping I don’t mean left right motor starts running but you can imagine if there is slack in the gearbox trex can move without motor turning. If it just moves a few mm (movement left right is disabled in settings) it will drop off the centerswitch and trex will no longer go up-down.

Found the cause. The screw which secured the top assy to the axis was loose again. I tightened it the evening befor so didn’t think this was the cause and suspected thus the gearbox. Tightened it again but again loose after few minutes.

So checked and it isn’t an original screw. I expect to get tomorrow an Orginal screw and will try again. Hoping the original screw has something like a point which holds it better. Will see. To be cntd.

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#4243 1 year ago

So I finished my shop job. All looks good but I have a small threaded spacer and a short grey post sleeve left. This post sleeve was shorter than all the others so I saved it until the end so I am assuming it should be used as a spacer somewhere? Anyone know where these go?

On another note, the metal flag thing attached to the coil that changes ball direction on ramp is a bit too low. It is getting stuck and grinding on the ramp itself. Is their a way to raise the height? Mine is doing this because I bought and installed the plastic protectors that go under the plastics. The now higher plastics has increased the height of the ramp because the ramp sits on top of the plastics in this area.

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#4244 1 year ago

I think the hexspacer is on a plastic ‘supporting’ the wireform. Not at my machine now so can’t take a detailed pic but you can just see at below pic. Look for it at beyond the right pop bumper cap

In regard to the diverter. If you look below the play field you will see a screw on the axis which allows you to change height and position

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#4245 1 year ago

any one got a spot to buy the plastic double washer that holds the rubber flap to the chest plate of the rex?

#4246 1 year ago

Thanks Rensh! Your right, looks like instead if a nut I use the hex spacer to help support the wire bridge. I'm betting the short plastic post sleeve used to be a standard post sleeve until someone cut a piece off to use somewhere.

Sadly I have the diverted as far up as it will go. I think I will have to remove the plastics protector in this area to bring the ramp down.

#4247 1 year ago

Wasn't somebody looking for these? I like the sunset ones best!

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop-cat/pinball-sideblades/

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#4248 1 year ago

I kinda wish the second one didnt have dinosaur silhouettes, just the grass, trees, and basckdrop....

#4249 1 year ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I kinda wish the second one didnt have dinosaur silhouettes, just the grass, trees, and basckdrop....

I like it!

#4250 1 year ago

Trex is still giving me issues. During pinball night the trex wasn’t able to stand up when the ball was in his mouth. I am suspecting the spring is touching the base of the left right motor.

Now I got also today an assy from a friend and when I compare mine has a spring and his not. My theory is that the spring was designed later to protect the motor. Anybody an idea? How dangerous would it be to use the construction without spring ?

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