Quoted from adamross:Can anyon advise on where to find endprodukt’s pinsound file? As well as the 6.0 rom? Thanks and happy holidays!
Reach out to Pinsider Meloyelo51 to get the 6.0 ROMs.
Gord
Quoted from adamross:Can anyon advise on where to find endprodukt’s pinsound file? As well as the 6.0 rom? Thanks and happy holidays!
Reach out to Pinsider Meloyelo51 to get the 6.0 ROMs.
Gord
It sounds like your ramp switch might be stuck on, have you run the switch test? When you get three ramps it says "Dino dna" and lights mr dna in the left scoop.
Quoted from Bhieken:My ceiling is too low for the topper , so we improvise.
Bhieken Would you be interested in selling your topper and light reflecting bracket?
Quoted from jercode:Here's a video to the 'Dino' issue
» YouTube video
Yep. Looks exactly like the Phantom Switch 28 issue I mentioned earlier.
Quoted from ChadH:Yep. Looks exactly like the Phantom Switch 28 issue I mentioned earlier.
I really appreciate the help!
Quoted from hodgesm0:bhieken Would you be interested in selling your topper and light reflecting bracket?
No the sorry topper still looks good on my wall next to the game.
Guessing a full shopping is not a luxury. Rubbers look otherwise like new
Hope to finish it today.
Man, the amount of broken wires, incredible. I think like 10+ ripped from coils, GI.
DE50D875-71BA-47FF-9977-636743FBB6B1 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from ChadH:Check out this document:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf
I just read over the document and it appears there is a typo. I'm sure everyone would figure this out when looking at the graphic but they say cut the Trace between R23 and R25. When you look at the graphic it is R52 not R25. Wonder if they messed anything else up. Make sure you go by the text and the graphic to make sure it makes sense.
Quoted from Rensh:During the resto I misplaced somewhere this plastic . Does anyone have a spare or a scan of it so I can make one myself?
I have a full plastic kit going in my JP, when I take the old one out I can send it to you. Pm me your info.
Quoted from Rensh:What is the spare lightbox? Only cabinet with backbox was extra, not a Playfield
I'm missing the Whole lighting board that's on the hinges that plug into the motherboard. So no interactive lights in the backglass.
Quoted from t2:What colors rubbers look best? Don't like the black
Well you're not going to like my answer then.
Quoted from t2:New owner of a JP. What colors rubbers look best?
Check the Titan thread gallery. Great examples there, starting with a JP.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-competition-silicone-rings?gallery#g
Desperately wanting to re-join the club. Anyone in So. Cal have one for sale? Owned this title twice before and want another one to keep for a long long time. PM me if you have one
After much frustration with the flipper eos switches I finally completed the flipper board mod from service bulletin 54 this morning. The flippers work great with plenty of power . The left flipper holds when hit with a fast ball. As of right now they work as they should. If anything changes I will let you guys know. I can confirm the typo stated above. It says cut the trace between R23 and R25 . It should be between R23 and R52. I just followed the graphic on this and everything seems fine. My exacto knife in the photo is pointing to the trace I cut. My leads on the resistors and diodes could have been clipped a little shorter to make it look neater but that's my problem. At least you can clearly see where I did the work I desolderd and pushed my leads through and resoldered on the backside of the board keeping the components on the front and all the soldering on the back. Hope this helps someone thinking about doing it but is not sure. It was pretty easy to do just follow the instructions. As for my eos switches they are still adjusted as they should be and they are very clean and the flippers were working when I did the mod. But that was after cleaning and adjusting then for probably the tenth time. Hopefully my problem is solved. Happy New Year everyone !
I just noticed looking at my picture my white jumper wire is almost making an unwanted connection I am going to fix that now
Oh and one more thing. If you have a RadioShack electronics learning lab you have the parts on hand lol! Just make sure you check them with a multimeter first
Quoted from Rensh:During the resto I misplaced somewhere this plastic . Does anyone have a spare or a scan of it so I can make one myself?
Hi Rensh,
Here is a scan of the requested JP plastic. It has been scaled down in resolution by the Pinside website. If this resolution is not satisfactory I can email the full resolution scan to you if you PM me your email address.
Gord
Quoted from GRB1959:Hi Rensh,
Here is a scan of the requested JP plastic. It has been scaled down in resolution by the Pinside website. If this resolution is not satisfactory I can email the full resolution scan to you if you PM me your email address.
Gord
Thanks, highly appreciated, but This is not the plastic I am looking for. The one I am looking for is at the right side of end of shooter lane. Just befor the wireform.
See below picture of the spot
Quoted from Rensh:Thanks, highly appreciated, but This is not the plastic I am looking for. The one I am looking for is at the right side of end of shooter lane. Just befor the wireform.
See below picture of the spot
Let's try this again. Is this the correct JP plastic scan?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140469729@N02/38684911344/in/dateposted-public/
Gord
Quoted from Rensh:Getting closer . It looks like below
OK, this one should be the winner.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140469729@N02/38685086204/in/dateposted-public/
Gord
Is anyone able to take a hi res picture of the front cabinet? I want to fill in the lockdown bar holes and repaint it. Thanks!
Quoted from remf:Is anyone able to take a hi res picture of the front cabinet? I want to fill in the lockdown bar holes and repaint it. Thanks!
Here are a couple of JP photos from the front for your references.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140469729@N02/24532468567/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140469729@N02/25527946188/in/dateposted-public/
Gord
No worries Chalkey.
Thanks GRB, that should give me a good reference. Does anyone know which paint would be best to use?
Finishing up the JP and starting to tweak it to make it working 100%.
I noted that on the outlanes these two lights are always on. I see also they have no diodes where all other sockets do have diodes. Anyone has a picture how it looks with them? Thanks.
Getting the ball through to work 100% is also a challenge But I am getting closer and closer, now at 95%
DA687B10-B7C7-4CEF-AECD-6481E545243E (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Rensh:I noted that on the outlanes these two lights are always on. I see also they have no diodes where all other sockets do have diodes. Anyone has a picture how it looks with them? Thanks.
This is normal and correct. Connected to the GI.
Just got a JP! Fun to play but mine needs some work and cleaning. I was curious, what opinions do you guys have on rubber color? I see a lot of the stock black but also white.
My machine has at least a dozen bulbs out. I think I will go ahead and replace with LEDs. However, I saw on Youtube some guy removed all the LEDs and replaced with older bulbs because he hated it... has anyone else experienced this or just avoid the flashers? I was lookiing at the LED kit on Marco for around $200.
I got mine with leds pre installed and the flashers are blinding. Everything else is great. I did a basic white rubber kit with 4 yellow cliffy post rubbers up top and it looks good but I might consider some titan flipper rubbers and stuff next time.
Quoted from comment23:Although one of the cleaner pins I've owned, it's never been torn down / shopped by me. First project of 2018!
Good start. I like shopping a pin especially when it is in a none working state. Bringing it back to life is very satisfactory. I see it as saving one for the hobby.
Quoted from Rensh:Good start. I like shopping a pin especially when it is in a none working state. Bringing it back to life is very satisfactory. I see it as saving one for the hobby.
Me too! I'm out of project pins right now so I'm finding something to keep me busy.
Hey guys. First post for me in this club about my new JP. I've got several issues to work through in this game still, but the first one I tried to work through last night was getting pinsound up and running. My question is this- does anyone have pinsound AND a rottendog mpu in their game? I'm having an issue with no sound through the pinsound board and I know there was an issue with the interaction of these two boards that I'm not sure if they've fixed. So I'm asking here if anyone has that combo up and running on really any data east pin. Thanks!
Quoted from adamross:Can anyone please confirm if the Chad 6.0 Rom is compatible with Pinsound?
Yes it is
I posted a separate thread earlier, but just realized I should’ve posted it here:
I’ve been kinda scratching my head on this one. Both the shaker motor and the trex left / right motor seem to not be getting enough power to function (<2v).
When I go into diags, I can manually activate the shaker or the left/right motor, but they barely move. I’ve tested the motors by themselves with a 9v battery and they operate properly.
I’ve gone through all the boards and repaired any cold solder joints, checked all the big transistors, replaced all faulty fuse clips, tested the bridge rectifiers, and replaced the power supply board with a rottendog. I’ve also checked for continuity on the connectors.
What else is there to check?
Quoted from Wharhed:I posted a separate thread earlier, but just realized I should’ve posted it here:
I’ve been kinda scratching my head on this one. Both the shaker motor and the trex left / right motor seem to not be getting enough power to function (<2v).
When I go into diags, I can manually activate the shaker or the left/right motor, but they barely move. I’ve tested the motors by themselves with a 9v battery and they operate properly.
I’ve gone through all the boards and repaired any cold solder joints, checked all the big transistors, replaced all faulty fuse clips, tested the bridge rectifiers, and replaced the power supply board with a rottendog. I’ve also checked for continuity on the connectors.
What else is there to check?
Don’t know what to check more but I can tell you that in diagnosis it is normal the shaker motor barely moves. You need to put your hand on the shaker to notice it moved in diagnosis mode. It’s just a short burst.
In regard to Trex left-right this is clearly noticeable in diagnosis but it moves only slowly with a lot of noise.
Quoted from comment23:Here's my video on flame polishing (using the Jurassic Park ramp)
Excellent! Thanks for sharing.
Quoted from comment23:Here's my video on flame polishing (using the Jurassic Park ramp):
Thank you have you ever tried it with coloured ramps like G&R etc?
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