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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,372 posts
  • 472 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by fixintoplay
  • Topic is favorited by 197 Pinsiders

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58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8372 posts in this topic. You are on page 72 of 168.
#3551 3 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

My bunker and control room holes are pretty reamed out and it's hard to get a sensible measurement. When someone has a sec, could you please verify that they're 1 5/8" by 1 3/8", and the power shed is 1 3/8" square (which could explain why it's such a hard shot!)?

While not the greatest photos, perhaps this will assist with your request.

Gord

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#3552 3 years ago

That's amazing, thanks so much! Looks like the power shed is indeed a 1-3/16" square, and if the bunker is wider than 1-5/8" it's not by much.

Ideally I'd like the inside of the edge protector to be the same size as the original hole. Now that I'm sure what that size is, I'll just sand the bondo back a bit to make room for the width of the metal. If the hypothetical future owner of this machine's really heartbroken about it, I'll throw in a free tube of epoxy along with my thoughts and prayers.

#3553 3 years ago

Just got some good news! HR just informed me that my profit sharing bonuses have indeed been missing from my paycheck for the past 3 quarters. That means I have money to play with! So even though I was perfectly fine with the orange dots when I got the machine, it will be fun to add some color to it. So once I get my stacked bonuses, I'll probably be buying the ColorDMD.

#3554 3 years ago

Yay, free money!

#3555 3 years ago

Hello everyone. I am new to the thread and just inherited a Jurassic Park pinball from a deseased friend. This is my very first owned pinball machine and am excited about the new adventure I am embarking on.

This machine has sat in a garage from Hawaii to New York for the past 3 years and now is in my house in Delaware. It is currently running V4.0 ROM. TRex works great.

I am however having issues with the saucers and the left and right bumpers in front of the bottom flippers. During diagnostic tests, all coils fire correctly and work great. However when playing, they never trigger upon hit. I have checked all connections, fuses and wires looking for anything loose, but cannot find anything. Any help would be greatly appritiated.

#3556 3 years ago
Quoted from Darkmithrander:

During diagnostic tests, all coils fire correctly and work great. However when playing, they never trigger upon hit.

Do the switches for the slings and saucer work in switch test?

#3557 3 years ago

I know the coils fire. I hear the pops and see the bumpers fire. Not sure about the switches. I'll have to check at next diagnostic.

#3558 3 years ago

Hey everyone. For better or worse, I started a JP DMD problem thread. If you've run into this, please let me know.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jp-dmd-shakes-wrottendog-power-board

... Altan

#3559 3 years ago

Last night whilst playing my sounds and music went haywire. It Kept playing one of the mode musics continously, even after the game finished. It just wouldn't shut up. It also kept making random sound effects like the bleet of the goat and "CHAOS" turned it off and back on again. No change. So turned it off, reseated some cables and pushed home some chips. Now seems ok!!! Random. Anyone experienced similar?

#3560 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Last night whilst playing my sounds and music went haywire. It Kept playing one of the mode musics continously, even after the game finished. It just wouldn't shut up. It also kept making random sound effects like the bleet of the goat and "CHAOS" turned it off and back on again. No change. So turned it off, reseated some cables and pushed home some chips. Now seems ok!!! Random. Anyone experienced similar?

Yup. On Sunday. Re-seated power cable to sound board, all good.

#3561 3 years ago
Quoted from pkrobin:

Yup. On Sunday. Re-seated power cable to sound board, all good.

Ah good to know. Thanks mate

#3562 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Do the switches for the slings and saucer work in switch test?

Ok so it is the column of switches containing smart missile, trigger, all three turbos, and the two slings. Column 41-48. Need to test the board and the transistor.

#3563 3 years ago
Quoted from Darkmithrander:

Ok so it is the column of switches containing smart missile, trigger, all three turbos, and the two slings. Column 41-48. Need to test the board and the transistor.

Also mess with the switch plug on the main board. When they wear out you can have a switch or row go bad. If you move the plug and they start to work, then you have a cold solder joint on the pin or the plug needs to be replaced.

#3564 3 years ago

Speaking of plugs, should this machine have a three-pronged plug? Mine doesn't, and I've got it apart anyway so this'd be a great time to solve that.

#3565 3 years ago

It should definitely have a three prong plug.

#3566 3 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Also mess with the switch plug on the main board. When they wear out you can have a switch or row go bad. If you move the plug and they start to work, then you have a cold solder joint on the pin or the plug needs to be replaced.

So the board is not factory. It is a Rottendog replacement. I have identified the problem being on the Green/Blue wire. The wire flinging into the plug comes in from the bottom of the plug and loops back into the bundle from the top of the plug. Connection was clean and looked good. Moving plug did not help cause. The column stayed off.

Being an after market MBU, not exactly sure were to test or where to look. I tried to compare to original board that was stored in the cabinet but they are very different.

Where should I look for bad connections or where should I test?

#3567 3 years ago

? for all! How does the Mantis protectors work with cliffys? I have Cliffys on the machine, I have Mantis in the shop for next shop out, I want to put the mantis in and the cliffys. I guess the ? is do they work together?

#3568 3 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Also mess with the switch plug on the main board. When they wear out you can have a switch or row go bad. If you move the plug and they start to work, then you have a cold solder joint on the pin or the plug needs to be replaced.

Actually figured out what you meant here and moved the CN8 plug over 1 space. When doing that, all switches in that column worked except 1, the egg cracker. Could this be as you say a cold solder joint at the third pin AND something at the egg? Or possibly something else?

#3569 3 years ago
Quoted from Darkmithrander:

Actually figured out what you meant here and moved the CN8 plug over 1 space. When doing that, all switches in that column worked except 1, the egg cracker. Could this be as you say a cold solder joint at the third pin AND something at the egg? Or possibly something else?

Now rest the switches that are now on the other pin. If that column now doesn't work then you either have a cold solder joint on that pin or a transistor/chip problem.

What I originally meant was to move the plug (up down left right) while plugged in as you are trying to activate the switches to see if they would work when you put "pressure" on The plug. In this case if they worked then I would reflow the solder on all the pins. If it still is problematic, replace the connector.

Moving the plug over one pin is what I was going to suggest next to test exactly what you did so good problem solving on your part.

Normally a si for switch not working will indicate a broken wire or switch someplace. I do t have a manual in front of me so I am not sure how far down the line that switch is. Normally if you have a broken wire then all switches past that point don't work.

#3570 3 years ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Now rest the switches that are now on the other pin. If that column now doesn't work then you either have a cold solder joint on that pin or a transistor/chip problem.
What I originally meant was to move the plug (up down left right) while plugged in as you are trying to activate the switches to see if they would work when you put "pressure" on The plug. In this case if they worked then I would reflow the solder on all the pins. If it still is problematic, replace the connector.
Moving the plug over one pin is what I was going to suggest next to test exactly what you did so good problem solving on your part.
Normally a si for switch not working will indicate a broken wire or switch someplace. I do t have a manual in front of me so I am not sure how far down the line that switch is. Normally if you have a broken wire then all switches past that point don't work.

The egg switch is the last in series on the green/Blue wire and the second on the white/gray.

#3571 3 years ago

Hey Guys,

I'm having an issue with one of my flippers, the right one. It will be fine for a few games, then it will start to not fire. The flipper will move a littel when the button is pressed, but looks like it is struggling and will not actually fire. I have cleaned the the leaf switches with a business card, and have taken off the glass and manully moved the flipper when using the switch and eventually it will work again. My question is, is there anything I can replace to make the flipper more reliable? What do I need to check to start troubleshooting this issue?

Thanks for the help, sorry if this is a super noob question.

,Matt

#3572 3 years ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

It will be fine for a few games, then it will start to not fire. The flipper will move a littel when the button is pressed, but looks like it is struggling and will not actually fire.

The problem is not the flipper switch, it is the end of stop switch mounted on the flipper mech. Probably the wire is coming loose.

#3573 3 years ago
Quoted from flakeloaf:

As in "it moves very slowly when it needs to move left to right" or "it drifts lazily left to right when it should be sitting still"?

Like it doesn't really move right and got stuck left so I had to go into settings and move it to the right and it took like 20 seconds to go 1" to activate the center switch. I then had to disable left/right movement

#3574 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The problem is not the flipper switch, it is the end of stop switch mounted on the flipper mech. Probably the wire is coming loose.

Checked all the wiring and re flowed solder on all contacts. Checked the fuses on the flipper board. I did notice that the LED on the flipper board that corresponds with that flipper does not light up when activating the switch, but the other two (the upper flipper and left bat) do.

Pulled out the board and all the contacts look ok, really scratching my head with this one.

#3575 3 years ago

Did you check the fuse clips when you had the flipper board out?
I had the same problem and it was a loose clip that was the problem. Common issue with data east fuse clips.

#3576 3 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Did you check the fuse clips when you had the flipper board out?
I had the same problem and it was a loose clip that was the problem. Common issue with data east fuse clips.

I'll pull the board off and reflow the solder on the fuse holder and report back.

#3577 3 years ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

I'll pull the board off and reflow the solder on the fuse holder and report back.

Check the clips themselves too, the metal can crack, break, or be loose and then it won't grip the fuse properly.

#3578 3 years ago

Does anyone know who makes this topper?

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#3579 3 years ago

Does anyone know the part number for the Brackets that hold the #555 bulb sockets over the scoops with the yellow and green bulb condoms?

#3580 3 years ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

I'll pull the board off and reflow the solder on the fuse holder and report back.

If that doesn't work I think you may have encountered a very similar if not the same exact issue as me. My post on it is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/have-you-had-a-pinball-that-you-cannot-fix/page/2#post-3521258

The bulletin I refer to can be found here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

#3581 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

If that doesn't work I think you may have encountered a very similar if not the same exact issue as me. My post on it is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/have-you-had-a-pinball-that-you-cannot-fix/page/2#post-3521258
The bulletin I refer to can be found here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

Thanks for this, I feel like the board is my problem, I'm not sure how confident I am in my abilities to modify it according to the SB, so I may just buy the updated board.

#3582 3 years ago

I ordered the new version of the board from Marco, will see if that fixes things.

#3583 3 years ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

gunnermac popped in the Rottendog board and everything fired right up. FYI.

Hi tjprice222,

Finally got chance to log back on and check my posts - no there are no lights on the CPU board whatsoever when it starts up so it looks like mine is the power board too. Will check the fuses first though.

gunnermac

#3584 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

If that doesn't work I think you may have encountered a very similar if not the same exact issue as me. My post on it is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/have-you-had-a-pinball-that-you-cannot-fix/page/2#post-3521258
The bulletin I refer to can be found here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

New board installed, and flippers working great again!

#3585 3 years ago

Anyone in need of an original flipper driver board that is in need of modification according to SB54?

#3586 3 years ago

Wizard mode question for JP owners... Anybody tried not flipping during System Failure to let balls drain...? The auto launch goes straight into Pop Bumpers for 1 Mill points switch hits. Why bother flipping at all??

#3587 3 years ago

This is a club I hope to be in one day soon. JP #1!

#3588 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

Wizard mode question for JP owners... Anybody tried not flipping during System Failure to let balls drain...? The auto launch goes straight into Pop Bumpers for 1 Mill points switch hits. Why bother flipping at all??

lol, no. But it makes me wonder if it's a good strategy. I really only get to system failure by using the buy in feature or turning off the playfield glass.

#3589 3 years ago

Somebody just try it, please. If it works then it might be easiest/worst wizard mode of all time (hoping I'm wrong!)

#3590 3 years ago

The strategy of draining is hardly new, the whole 6 ball thing is chaos, literally. If your super strategic about shots and scoring the JP wizard mode is not for you.

#3591 3 years ago

"If your super strategic about shots and scoring the JP wizard mode is not for you."

I didn't realize purposely draining for the entire wizard mode counts as Super Strategic, lol. Alrighty then!

#3592 3 years ago

My point was draining works and everyone knows it works and yes it is one of the easiest wizard modes ever, everyone knows that. If you're hoping that you are wrong, sorry to be Captain obvious and let you know you're right. It's a fun over the top wizard mode exactly like the summer blockbuster movie. There is no strategy to it and its still awesome.

#3593 3 years ago
Quoted from waspinat0r:

This is a club I hope to be in one day soon. JP #1!

I wish you were trying to trade something other than BDK. I like that game, but not enough to part ways with my JP. Good luck to you.

#3594 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I wish you were trying to trade something other than BDK. I like that game, but not enough to part ways with my JP. Good luck to you.

Aw, man! Me too!

#3595 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

Wizard mode question for JP owners... Anybody tried not flipping during System Failure to let balls drain...? The auto launch goes straight into Pop Bumpers for 1 Mill points switch hits. Why bother flipping at all??

That is certainly an interesting question. I would try it out next time I play but my pop bumpers need some adjusting to be more sensitive.

#3596 3 years ago

Also curious how often can you hit the Dino hole using the right lower flipper? I heard it's hard, but with practice I suspect upper flipper isn't needed?

#3597 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

Also curious how often can you hit the Dino hole using the right lower flipper? I heard it's hard, but with practice I suspect upper flipper isn't needed?

The trex saucer? I hit it some times, but not consistently at all. Also, the upper flipper is needed for the higher jackpot value, which I usually dont get. The ramp is so much easier of a shot, then I use my smart missile to start chaos most of the time unless its like ball 1 or something.

#3598 3 years ago

"I hit it some times, but not consistently"

I get that, but I'm asking if you actually Try to hit the saucer how often can you hit it.

Most people do not realize you can backhand the right ramp on AS every time perfectly once you trap up. Even game owners seem to play their games same way over and over. I'm trying to think outside the box

#3599 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

"I hit it some times, but not consistently"
I get that, but I'm asking if you actually Try to hit the saucer how often can you hit it.

Well now I gotta go play like 20 games and make a spread sheet......

#3600 3 years ago

I will try to bank it off the left post of the captive ball. 60% of the time it works every time.

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