What's the opinion on the titltopper? I like it. Im more looking for comments on build quality and value.

Can't believe this is in the code, awesome.

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Woah! Where and how did you make that come up??

It's on a drain that bounces back out into play, isn't it?

You gotta be able to death save lol.
It's harder to do on a Data East, plus they have those metal wires under the flippers to prevent just that. I was pretty surprised when I pulled it off the first time, hit a switch and saw that.

I ordered one last week, once it arrives I will update. It looks amazing though!!

Where can I see this topper? I am confused by the name. I must have missed the original post. Thanks.

http://www.tilttopper.com/jurassic-park.html

Very nice topper, Thanks for the link!

I have one on my machine. It's a nice topper. Shorter than the original if you have height clearance issues. Quality is good and it lights up nicely.

Just went ahead and ordered it. My JP is never leaving my collection so I figured why not.

Anyone in the Newark, DE area have a game they'd be willing to allow Malenko access to with his pin2DMD so he can capture the video output and get started redoing the art files? He's done spectacular work with SFII, just imagine what he could do with JP!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/make-street-fighter-ii-great-again/page/2#post-3812444

Hi guys. Sold my fishtales to join this club. Been after one for a while but it took me a while to pluck up the courage to sell my minty fresh redecaled fishy to fund it!!
But hey, you can't keep em all!

Couple of questions. I think I'm running code 5.01. (Well the sticker on the rom says 5.10 but I'm sure the dmd displays 5.01 on start up) This will soon Make way for 6.0. However, When I switch on the game it says open coin door. Then does a full T-Rex diagnostics. Is this normal?

Then after draining the last ball the T-Rex stays facing its last direction. Should it reset before going in to attract or will it re set on starting a new game?

And I'm not too familiar with data east diagnostics but I can't seem to find a free play option no matter how much I scroll through. Maybe I'm blind but I can't see it.

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks peeps
Gaz

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When you get to "expand adjustments" you need to hit yes. I think it's option 12-14 or so.

Thanks mate much appreciated

The open coin door is probably because your batteries are dead and he has lost it's settings. It wants you to open the door to verify the coin settings, etc...

Legend thanks mate. I'll try that. It makes sense since he said it wouldn't save free play setting.

Picking up a JP next week which will be my first pin. Any tips on things to look for? It's already got the cliffy inserts installed. The "dock" ejector isn't working and I'm hoping that should be a fairly easy fix.

Check the condition of the wire ramps. Very prone to cracking on the right hand side where the VUK is. It's not a deal breaker but can be problematic.
Obviously the Trex as already mentioned. You can manually operate it from within the adjustments menu.

Hi all, the shaker on my JP seems to be shaking much more vigorously than when I bought it. I seem to remember reading at some point there is a way to calibrate the shaker if that happens? Any help/advice would be much appreciated.

You can adjust the position of the weights on it, but I'm not sure how it could get more vigorous by itself.

Has anyone installed mirror blades on their JP recently? If so, how did you deal with the mounting brackets for the "When Dinos Ruled the Earth" plastic?

Anyone have a part number for this post above the wire guide? manual doesn't have it listed.

It has thrown a weight loose and is more offset than normal?

Ok I'm sick of these piece of shit rails on de pins. Ripped one clean out of the playfield tonight :/

Has anyone tried swapping the entire mechanism for Williams ones?

I love how simple and perfect they work.

Any show stopper reasons they wouldn't work?

Pf clearance? Size? Something with the cabinet?

What part ripped out?

Can you take a pic?

RussM

New alternatives to stock DE

http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm

Thanks. It's not just the handle I hate but the entire playfield slide mech.

Both my jp and swde have crap slides this was just the thing that tipped me over the edge. :/IMG_0711 (resized).JPG

JP doesn't have slide rails...it has pegs. They are crap though.

Sorry I should have been more verbose.

The method it uses to slide and then lift the playfield is crap.

I do have both a tz and an ij for reference so I might just do some measuring and see if I can retrofit a Williams style slide and lift parts.

Number 1 reason I hate when I need to work on my JP. It is my only data east currently and the way the PF moves is utter crap in comparison to my Williams and Stern games.

Let us know if you are successful in changing out the mechanisms.

I've just compared my ij.

Lift handles are direct upgrades.

The slides however won't "directly" fit.

Right side needs to have a lighting circuit rewired and a light socket insulated but it would work.

Left side however has a coil mech for the ramp. I could shorten the rail but I'll have to check distances and angles for when the pf is lifted.

The sterns STILL have the same crap slide as far as I can tell (gb has it).

Yes, the DE system is the same through DE, Sega, and all modern Sterns up to today.

It has it's problems, yes, but you should try Gottlieb System 3 - it's far worse for usability.

What a PITA.

Just going over to the WPC-style support brackets could make a big improvement for the DE playfield (That's what Stern did after all) but retrofitting the slide-lock WPC system into a DE cabinet is very tricky.

If you are successful, please document your procedure.

RussM

I'll check the clearance on my desw and gnr and see if they are any better.

Just looking at the playfields I'd guess sw is the best candidate (nothing on the sides of the playfield).

Addams Family doesn't have slides or rails. Playfield just hinges up, period. Terrible for access. Had lots of fun replacing the rear leg bolt plates.

So, yeah it could be worse.

Found a NOS pair of gun halfs. Will be needed for my Some Assembly Required restoration.

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That is an insane find! Nice!

Sweet! nice find.

Any idea why the back glass glare is so bad?? I mean every JP I see is brutal! Why is that? I don't have that problem with any other machine. I'm hoping that adding some extra lighting to the back side ( when dinosaurs ruled the earth ) will help but even with the game turned off, it has a HORRIBLE reflection on the playfield.

Remove 50% of the bulbs behind the translite. You don't need them all. Trust me.

nice snag there,
I remember a cheap $700 JP project a couple years ago, I passed because it was missing these handles.

I did that, didn't help. Like I said, even when the game is off the reflection is crazy bad. Never seen this before.

Also grabbed a NOS dino front and back, along with a subway. I'll reach out to freeplay and see if he wants to use the subway for his molds.

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That subway find is great! Would be awsome if it could get reproduced.

Spencer, lighting the back area helps, but it has a bigger effect on the dmd reflection.

Hello Guys, I am trying to restore a Data East JP and the main issue I have is that some parts of the Dino Assy are missed, there are two pieces impossible to find, from the manual these parts are: motor cam assy 515-5814-00 and the crank arm 535-6657-00, there is also a spring that I can see in different pics in the internet which is at the end of the crank arm, but is not showed in the manual, so If anyone has these parts available to sell or the schematics with dimensions please let me know….thanks!

I'm not sure on the correct placement of the washer, should it be on the right side with the nut? The washer is notched to the button on the left.

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Thanks, I got a "bent plastic" for the dmd. Personally, I think it looks stupid but it works.

Nice. If you end up doing the full back panel illumination mode, including the dino banner, you really won't need it anymore.

WTH! Nice! I'd be up for a subway reproduction. My tabs around the VUK had broken off, and someone riveted some metal ones back on. The rivets kept causing problems with the ball getting stuck in the VUK. I've grinded the rivets back enough that they don't cause problems, but there is that 1 time out of 1000 that the ball still gets stuck.