I am looking for a Project Data East Jurassic Park if anyone has one for sale at a reasonable price.

Thanks

How did you get in touch with them? I emailed, but haven't gotten a response yet.

I agree that they don't seem to be facing the same direction, and I can see why this would be considered wrong. I would think they'd sit better in the channel if they were the other way. The t-nut you see there is being used by the lane guide screw, so unless that's a dual purpose screw, I don't think it's meant for this. Those screws are pretty small. Then again, perhaps that's why they always break off. FWIW, I think I'm actually missing that t-nut on the other side, and this may be why. Would love to see how everyone else's games are installed.

Is it weird that every coil in my jurassic has been changed? Except for 2 flipper coils?

That is a little odd, yes.

If you do them all, why not the flipper coils too?

RM

It think it is dual purpose based on that pic I linked to. That's my only evidence though, well and the fact that I seem to have empty screw holes right on the outside of both of those t-nuts on mine.

The mantis ones would still probably work in the stock position with the additional screws on the side. One of these days I'll make that investement. I haven't screwed up my game yet without them, back when I was blissfully ignorant that supports were supposed to be there!

lol. That's the stance I'm taking on the position of mine as well.

I just shopped my JP and my playfield supports were each connected using one of the screws from the in lanes that go through a T nut there was a nylock nut hold ing the support on the screw. There was a hex head wood screw in the other hole on each.

I need to go play mine now

I sent an email to this adress, which is also their paypal adress:
[email protected]

Thank you. That's the address I used.

Awesome, thanks!

Hey guys when you are aligning your JP flippers, do you center the flipper on the playfield hole or line the hole up with the top or bottom of the flipper?

I set my flippers to have the tip point slightly above the hole in the playfield. I have no idea if that is correct, but it seems to look right.

For DE games the center point of the flipper tip should point directly at the playfield hole.

For B/W games, the bottom edge of the flipper with rubber on should rest against a small toothpick or similar stuck in the playfield hole.

What is most important:

There is a continuous straight line of the lane guide onto the top flipper edge so the ball flows smoothly from one onto the other with no deflection or hop

There is a small amount (1/16" or so) of vertical up/down play in the flipper bat so it doesn't bind

Check out Vid's guide to repairing and rebuilding flippers

RussMyers

_{Post edited by RussMyers: forgot to add de detail}

Thanks guys. I set mine last night to be centered to the whole but just wanted to make sure. I've only had the machine for a few weeks and I've gotten used to the shots the way the fillers were adjusted (which was way off from the correct way). Now I'm having to re-learn all the shots so I figured I'd confirm that so this is the last time I have to learn the shots!

I have a weird lighting issue. The top Spitter target of the left 3 standup targets is not lighting when hit or in sequence during attract mode. Having the same problem with the A. Both do light up. Any ideas?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-crappy-bumpers-mod

guys, question does the JP have a 110Volt service plug in the game?

I cant remember and mine is not close and I plan to hook up a sub over the holiday and need to make sure I have everything with me to make it happen.

thanx, B.

Had to share... My 17 year old had friends over last night. Just went into the basement and even in the dark saw that it was a mess - cushions out, blankets strewn about, etc. Ignored that and flipped the power on JP. As usual, the T-Rex cracked the silence with it's roar. Well, I guess 1 or 2 of the friends must have slept over because instantly I saw at least one very confused head pop up from the sofa nearby. Sheepishly turned the machine right back off and went upstairs. Would rather be playing now rather than browsing pinside, but it did give me a laugh. Probably not the nicest way to be awoken after a late night.

Haha, nice wakeup call

Anybody ever put a bill validator in this machine , I can't get either a down stacker or a upstacker to work , I have tried everything

Thanks

Mine does not

Hi All,

My JP has a small issue. When the ball is kicked out, it hits the standup target just above the gate to the pop bumpers, causing the ball to deflect back to the playfield, instead of entering the pop bumper area, about 70% of the time.

Are there any suggestions for adjustments? The table is level with about a 6.5 degree slope.

TIA

Check ball guide, center ball with plunger tip, rebuild plunge coil...in that order.

eeeeeek

I've never played a JP that launched the ball reliably into the pops 100% of the time. You can reduce it by adjusting the ball guide. Loosen the screw at the end of the ball guide, move it a little downward, tighten, then play test. You may move it too far down and the ball will hit the standup below the gate. Just keep playing around with it and you'll get better results.

I never actually considered that the ball may not be centered on the plunger tip as Pimp77 suggested. Possibly wear in the shooter lane causes that? I also seemed to think that it happened more frequently after a ball save or when kicking balls out for multiball. Possibly the game auto-plunges balls before they can properly settle into the shooter lane?

Mine works 100%

Mine used to.....

That was it. Somehow the plunger coil was shifted off center. I aligned it, and all is well again.

Thank you.

When I first got my JP it would say "T-Rex got'em" after the match sequence. There was some discussion on RGP about what settings made it say that, and I don't recall anyone ever posting a solution to making this happen. After I changed my batteries a few years back, it stopped saying "T-Rex got'em" and would just say "How about another tour of the park". Despite me having written down the settings, I was never able to get it set to say "T-Rex got'em" after the match sequence.

I was putting everything together today after having torn down my machine to shop it, and I gave it some service credits (despite it being on free play) when I was in diagnostics. Now it is back to saying "T-Rex got'em" after the match sequence. Apparently that is the phrase to let you know it still has credits after a game has finished.

I thought I would post this in case others were as baffled as I was trying to figure this out.

When a match is not achieved, if there is no credits (or game is on Free Play) then game will play descending notes sound effect. If there are credits then game will play “Ohh, T-Rex got him” sound call.

from ChadH, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-rules/page/5#post-1205749

Your current game will say "oooh T-Rex got him" during a failed match under a very specific circumstance.

If your game is NOT SET TO FREE PLAY... and if your game ends and you DO NOT MATCH... and if there is ONE OR MORE CREDITS in the game at the time. If those circumstances are met, then your game will say "oooh T-Rex got him".

Otherwise it will always play the descending notes sound effect.

Thanks oopsallberrys! You said it better than I just said it... by quoting me.

Not exactly. It will say "Oh, T-Rex got'em" if the game is set on free play if there is no match AND there are service credits on the machine.

Cliffy puts a microswitch behind the coin return buttons on his pins so he can add credits for free without losing the extra sounds on pins

So, I recieved the new DE brackets from Mantis and tried to find a place to connect them. Apparently there has been something fastened before, but it seems that they have been removed and the pf wood has started breaking up. Through the T-nut the screw going from the plastic beneath slingshot is supposed to go It seems.

This is how it looks on mine, anyone have any idea how to fasten the brackets with the current situation? Im afraid Ill start breaking the pf even more If I jam new screws in..

left_bracketside.jpg

right_bracketside.jpg

The t-nuts are supposed to have long bolts coming down through them from the lane guide I think. Is the top-side not populated? Those would go in one hole on the bracket and then get a nut to hold in place. Your mangled holes are where the wood screw would go in the original bracket. You could use wood glue and toothpicks to build the holes back up and give the screws something to bite into. The Mantis ones allow two extra screws out to the sides, and I would think you should maybe pre-drill (don't go through the pf!) before driving new screws in.

Yes it usually is, I'm just semi-shopping my JP while waiting for circuit boards to be repaired (and your T-Rex to be fully born, hehe ), so thats why the lane guide screws arent there I have already ordered some quikwood for fixing the scoops before putting on cliffy, so mayhaps I can use the quikwood for the screw holes too, or glue and toothpicks as you mention. Sounds engineer-ish

Thanks for the input!

Who's got JP Cliffys?

http://www.passionforpinball.com/

Ping Cliffy directly....

Thanks

Just ordered a set of those. $58.

Hey Everyone,

It's been a while since I've asked so I'm checking in once again to see if anyone has either a stripped JP playfield for sale (any condition) or the ability to provide high resolution scans of theirs. I would consider paying for the scan.

I am looking to completely rework the entire JP art package from top to bottom. Although I love the pin, I can't stand the pf line art, plastics etc... With Jim's new T-Rex, Chad's code update and adding a DMD Extender with large colour LCD/LED display to the backbox, it's time for the rest of the pin to match.

I have tried using the artwork from the visual pinball table. Angle is off and the quality is poor.

Having the scan would allow me to work on creating the new pf artwork but Ideally I would like to find a second pf so that I can sand one down (it or mine) to create a new bare wood scan to recreate the pf in CAD and complete the artwork in illustrator.

It is an ambitious project but I would like to proceed. If anyone is interested in assisting we could discuss the project.

Have a look at the LAH pf ticket that I've completed to get an idea of quality and commitment.

Thanks.

I don't know if he still has it but arakissun had a pf listed for a while in his parts for sale thread.

You're already taking your game apart, right? Would it be more feasible for you to strip your existing pf down and scan it yourself? HP Scanjet 4600s (might be similar models, but don't know off-hand) can be had for relatively cheap and are perfect for scanning and stitching pfs.

Thanks for providing his name Jim, I've just found the thread and sent an email. Yes the pf is almost stripped from the top but currently almost completely stock on the bottom. I'm not crazy about pulling everything off just yet to get the scan. A second pf would be ideal so that I could take care of everything first and then transfer everything over when it's time. This just might be the opportunity if it is still available, the prices continue to drop on unsold items so that would be even better!

A question regarding flippers on JP. I am going to do a flipper rebuild soon, but upon inspecting the current status of the flippers (they both are working), I saw something peculiar.

The following pictures is of each of the flipper-assemblies, and it seems that the EOS on the right side is...too short? When i move the flipper coil, the red ..thingy..does not touch the switch.
As opposed to the left side, where the red thingy touches the switch and moves it out.
But still, both were working fine before I started semi-shopping it.

Any have similar looks on their flippers, or any idea what this is good/not good for?

JP Right flipper EOS.jpg

JP left flipper eos.jpg

definitely looks like your eos switch leaf is broken. You could hold that flipper up?

Yeah... Im wondering how :p although i guess doing a full flipper-rebuild is wise anyway.and i assume the left one is how its supposed to be?

They will work fine, unless you have a ball screaming back to the flipper off of the raptor pit, then the flipper will drop and not re-flip unless you fix the EOS switch.