I'm not familiar with what that means. Can you please tell me how I would do that?

Unplug each cable then re-plug each in.

Okay, thanks. I'll get to doing that tomorrow.

Especially the ribbon cables. They are the flat ones that fit on to two rows of pins...

With the machine off.

Very strange that all 3 failed. If they did, I'd think more than just one coil would be locked on.

I need to review the schematic, but doesn't j8 supply the power to the coils not the ground? Sounds like you have a short to ground in the wiring, possibly something got jostled in the move and pinched?

Thank you very much for the fix, worked like a charm. I would have never thought to do what you suggested. Why did that fix the problem? As I reset the cables, none felt loose and none were disconnected.

Built up static charge. Because your feet were grounded to the floor the static flowed through the connector then your fingers and eventually to the floor. You can also spray all of your boards with anti static cling ironing spray that you use when ironing. If you do a heavy coat now you won't have to do it again for 18 months. Pinballlife sells it.

Just kidding. No idea why it worked other than connections are the first thing to check. Keep an ear out for it though, it may be fatigued solder connection on on the pins or one of the connectors is loose.

Excellent sense of humor. You seriously had me thinking it was static charge and a I was going to be raiding our laundry closet.

Once again, thanks again very much.

Speaking of static charge. Now's the time I have to remind myself to discharge myself with winter hitting and the dryer air. I zapped my laser war after putting in a remote battery holder. I went to push the batteries in, and created a spark, which fried the ram chip.

great videos thanks!

is a dmd saver realy necessary in a home enviroment?
my cherry dmd stoped working so put in a new one
cherry worked from 1993 till 2016

Very nice. Sure a lot of people will appreciate being able to see what they need to be doing.

Noticed your bottom row of lights on the backbox are all the same as the ones above it. For a more authentic, OEM experience, that bottom row gets the blinker lights. They randomly blink on and off slowly. I think these are the ones. http://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-545-blinker-led Just a suggestion. Maybe you didn't like them blinking?

I hated the blinking in mine!

I kept blinkers by the T-Rex and raptor crate. I think they highlight areas of action.

Are you talking about the Flashers? The ones in bottom row in the backbox are like the slow blinking ones like Christmas lights.

I don't mind it since they are original. Barely notice them really.

No I'm talking about the blinking lights. The only ones I kept were where the t-rex is pushing the vehicle and where the workers are running towards the explosion near the raptor crate. I don't really even know where the blinkers were originally. I just occasionally add them to places like that where there is an explosion or action. It almost give the artwork a sense of movement.

Having some sound issues, the main music when the ball is in play intermittingly stops ... When the the next ball comes out , music returns!
Any suggestions all cables reseated!

I like the blinkers, mine didn't have them when I got it but I put them back in. It feels more like the times, like the opening of a big movie with roving spotlights lighting up a marquee. Its just not Jurassic Park without them.

P.S. I used incandescents in my backbox, with one exception of a single LED right at the sun.

Sounds exactly like my issue, and it was a cable reseat issue. Are you just saying that they're reseated, or are you just somewhat assuming you're confident they are reseated? After everyone suggesting that to me, and after I was saying, "Yes, every cable is securely pushed in." I went back and double checked. One cable moved ever so slightly. Like a fraction of a millimeter, and that fixed my issue.

My suggestion first, before you blow it off and spend even more time trying to find the issue, go check again, and be extra careful when pushing them in. Make sure they are all 100% pushed in on both sides of the cable.

Does your issue sound like this? Can you turn up the volume and cause the issue? If so, it's a power issue. Mine was due to the cable that handles power.

I am not sure, but for the cheap price I figured what the heck. I figured I could do a review video in about 10 years lol.
I am debating the same thing on my cliffy's as I haven't installed them yet...but gives it a nice clean look at the very least.

Edit: I just went to play a few rounds and I realized I forgot to mention just having a brightness control on the dmd helps. Really cuts down on the glass glare if you're playing in a darker room like mine.

I was wondering about that, these led's are how I got the machine and I hadn't looked into it yet. I think they are too dim as is...the room lights have to be off to really see it. I'm glad you said something...I just ordered a few led's from pinballife yesterday and totally forgot about looking at the backbox so I just called so I can change my order. They don't have led blinkers but for $2.50 for a box of 10 ill try incandescent blinkers on the bottom row lol

I had done that order cause I was showing the video to Josh from loopcombo and I didn't realize my blue bunker light was "factory correct" and he recommended putting the same yellow as control room or white in all 3 like his. So you know...gotta play with options to make the shipping worth it lol.

Will reseat them over the weekend , with mine it's just the ball in play music that stops , all other sounds are present ...!
Thanks for the reply

Yeah, with his issue I was definitely thinking power from the video, but more like an amp couldn't handle it etc. When games don't get their proper voltages at the proper places they throw tantrums. It could be a bad cap, faulty board, or just a stupid "loose but looks good to the eye connection". Especially with stranded wire can't hold the proper voltage and creates extra resistance if only partially connected. The plug can look/feel plugged in, but sometimes the wires get loose in the plug and need to be repunched down. If the simple reseat doesn't do it...also try a proper punch down tool or small flat blade screwdriver of not available to make sure the actual wires are seated in the plugs. Be very careful, and of course do all of this with the machine off.

I'd need to see a picture of someone's backbox opened to be able to confirm (my JP is currently "loose"), but I believe it was the entire bottom row that was the blinkers and that is it, behind the characters.

Has a rule of thumb, it is a good practice to take a picture of the area before removing components and/or marking with a pencil what lamp went were.
Williams Funhouse used deferent lamp sockets to aid in were the #455 went
Data East used # 545 on some of their games and you had to memorize were the lamps went or just use #555/#259s in replacing the burned out bulbs.

I think JP is actually one of my favorite translights light up. I used a mix of cool white and incandescents. The blinkers I left in are the ones out on the bottom.

IMG_2091[1] (resized).JPG
IMG_2089[1] (resized).JPG

Finally remade the plastic behind the upper right flipper. All with a dremel and a printer. I looked for a year for that plastic...

20161209_162748 (resized).jpg

That looks hella good peters. Well done. I am going to copy that, but I have the slow blinkers in the bottom as specified.

Hoping you guys can help me out! My JP stopped working over the weekend. The game boots up and starts a game fine and will kick the ball into the trough...the issue is I have no flipper power (hitting the buttons does nothing) and the ball will not plunge when I pull the trigger after its in the trough...any ideas where to start? I'm thinking either the driver board or flipper board may be the issue?

Start with checking the fuses. There is alco a flipper board in the cabinet that i think has fuses.

No 50 Volts. Bad bridge rectifier. blown fuse, 5 Amp S.B.

Would this be on the flipper board in the cab?

That would be in the head. Lower left. Should be identified in the manual. Check all fuses.

Just joined this club today ....does anyone know where can i find a topper ?

20161212_180348 (resized).jpg

Great job on the replacement! I have the same one broken on mine. Do you a scan of the image you can share? And what type of plastic did you use?

A kind pinsider sent it to me a couple of months ago but I can't find his name. Send me a pm with your email and I will send to you. I used a small sheet of Lexan polycarbonate. Easy to cut, drill and sand. I used my dremel with a router bit. I used the dremel drill press ($44) as a router and to drill the holes. For the image I started by using waterslide paper but had problems printing on it. Since the plastic is out of the way I went with glossy photo paper and 3m 77 Spay Adhesive. For sanding I just flipped my electric hand sander upside down on the bench.

I got mine from pinsider kruzman ...great guy to deal with. I think he has a couple NOS left.

PM sent - thanks!

http://www.tilttopper.com/jurassic-park.html

image (resized).jpeg

Hi Guys,

I have a technical question and I apologize in advance if it has been answered before. My DMD has a flickering or what I call video noise. There are extra dots and dashes that are not part of the image. Please see the attached image showing this. I put in a new DMD cable and the problem remains. Other then the flickering of extra dots and dashes the display looks quite normal.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

Screen Shot 2016-12-14 at 8.33.05 PM (resized).png

Try to switch displays with your Rocky and Bullwinkle game. That ought to narrow it down.

It could be a bad ram or the TV Ic is going bad or one of the associated
components on the controller board. Isolate the controller board and
plasma DMD board in order to narrow it down.

Thanks Guys,

I have the v. 6.0 rom set coming (purchased for the new gaming experience). If that doesn't work I'll swap displays.
I will update this as I progress.

Thanks again.

Looks like my F5 fuse is blown on the board below the power supply (this is the power board correct?) Trying to figure out where to go from here...this powers the 50V correct?

F5 is the 50v DC fuse. The fuse should be a 5A Slo Blo.

Yup replaced it and it blows when I hit the flipper buttons or pull the trigger to shoot the ball. When I hit the flipper buttons I was getting a tilt warning...hmmm

Also fuse F9 on the PPB board is blown

Hello people. I do have 4 nos toppers left. They came in a trade for a couple pf's, from someone who worked in the industry. I dont think he would want his name mentioned, but I got 15 of them. I will sell them for 150 without any fees, if anyone is interested. I am on ebay as kubotal3400.
cheers, and thank you for your support.
kruzman, galesburg mi

Any one had a loop combo sign break off its mount? Had the control room one break off during my party Saturday. Any recommendations for re-mounting it?