Sorry, this one.

Thanks, we'll check it out. It's great having a place to start. Thanks again...

If someone has time to test a couple of settings with Chad's 6.00 code, I ran into a "glitch" that drove me crazy;
Set Flashers to "dim" and coils to "soft"; the row lights were sending 3.6v to non-lit lights in the neighboring rows causing partially illuminated inserts... not sure if this was a fluke, but after hours of metering and chasing down wiring thinking there was a short somewhere, changing flashers back to "normal" immediately removed the partial lighting. Possibly a race-case of settings..

tldr; If you end up having your lights start partially glowing with no relation to the matrix, reset your settings.

Are you using LED'S? It almost sounds like LED ghosting.

Gord

I'm having an issue with my bunker coil. The ball basically dribbles out of the bunker and rarely gets sent to the left flipped. It usually gets kicked off the left sling or hits the top of the left sling and goes into the left outlane.

Game is level. Anyone else seen this or know where I should start to troubleshoot?

Flip the playfield up and take a good look at the VUK mechanism.

They can get out of alignment but what is also possible is the part wear after so many years.

The DE VUK design has a lot of parts that get sloppy. There is a rebuild kit for it.

It's kind of a PITA, but it's a common problem.

RM

Comet non-ghosting LEDs. The issue went away immediately after I changed the game settings for flasher and coil power. It wasn't the typical ghosting of other lamps on the same row/column-- I could activate lamp 64(smart missile, 8-8), and 27(spitter 3, 3-4)/5(5-1) would partially illuminate.

The bracket for the vuk is very bendable, try tweaking it under the playfield

Hey guys. Finally got my fuse clips soldered on thanks to Rob Anthony and Taro. Now ball wont fire out of shooter lane. Actually I dont think any solenoids are firing. Been scruggling with this machine for a year....
Any help appreciated.

How does Chad's new code (6.0) work with the same settings using incandescent lamps instead of LED's in your game? I am running the new code in my JP with none of the insert ghosting that you describe, however I am using incandescent lamps in my game and not LED's.

I had installed some LED's in my TAF mansion inserts a few years ago and experienced similar issues as to what you are describing with flickering inserts so I removed the LED's and went back to incandescent lamps and the issue went away. I know that there are updated game ROM's to correct the ghosting issue with TAF (a non-ghosting ROM) so perhaps something like that would need to be created for JP to fix your issue.

Gord

kicks to the shooter lane? Then you do have a solenoid firing. Check to see which are and which are not and report back. Could be fuse F5 as described above.

http://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/jurassic-park

111 (resized).jpg

Hopefully without coming across as a jerk, may I provide some feedback? I appreciate the effort as this appears to be an original design that's a step up from the other JP sideart I've seen.

I've seen a few offerings aimed at JP and I think they're mostly missing the mark, at least from what I'd like to have installed in my game, especially for the asking price. However, I never understand why these come out of nowhere without any community feedback in the development process. I would think a community driven approach would yield the best results and you'd get more interested buyers.

My main critique is that this version doesn't look to me like it uses the same style of art/colors and doesn't carry on the image from the back board. In my opinion, for sideart to look like it belongs, it should be integrated into the existing artwork. You've got an orange dawn or dusk sky while the back is a blue daytime sky with clouds. You've got silhouettes of dinosaurs, while all other dinos depicted in the artwork are drawn out in relatively high detail.

My secondary issue is that you've chosen to mirror the image for both sides. This means from the player's viewpoint, you're going to see the same dino on either side. That's kind of boring. Any reason the 2 sides can't have different dinos?

lol, this is fantastic. I had to replace the power board on my JP and came here trying to figure out why the gun shortcut didn't work. Took me 2 seconds on these forums to find out why.

Thanks again Chad. Your updates are the best btw.

Agree with all winter said. Waiting on the guy from over seas to make his hand drawn ones.

Also from that video above, did that guy ever get some one to make those siderail/lockdown bar decals? Those r sick.

Also, is that a shark fin?

I'm having some T-Rex issues related to his springs. I just bought my JP and I have already noticed that the previous owner did not put some things together correctly (like the gate to the jets that was put on backward and kicking the ball into the power shed on the skill shot). Could a couple of different people take pictures of the spring at the base of the neck on the topside of the playfield and also the spring on the bottom side of the playfield on the T-Rex assembly. I ask for a couple of different samples because in trying to research this there seem to be different ways that this is put together--even some that don't have the spring on the topside. Also, if anybody knows what spring to use on the underside, please let me know as mine is clearly shot.

One final thing I noticed on my T-Rex assembly is that the drive wheel on the underside of the assembly that make him go up and down is a little cock-eyed--it this normal? I added a picture to help clarify what I mean by cock-eyed.

IMG_1949 (resized).JPG

I hope someone can help deanearp with his questions.

I also have a question: What fuse goes with the raptor kickback?

It doesn't function and I want to check the fuse. Someone said F9, but I have no idea where the hell F9 is. I looked everywhere, looked through the manual, googled it...... nothing.

Anyone know?

Sorry, I'm like WAAAAAAY late to the party here, but...

JP is a game whose score really depends on how your game is set up. If you set them up relatively easy, 200mil is a relatively easy score to achieve. If you set it up difficult, 200mil is a very good score.

My machine is set up VERY tough. It is set up like this because I don't like to play through and be able to hit the wizard modes every time - to me, a good game of pinball that lasts three minutes is PERFECT. Having said that, in 10 years of owning my machine, I have scored a CHAOS jackpot a grand total of two times, both only for 200mil.

Before anyone tells me that I'm just not a good player, my JP was used in a few different tournaments for the MGC, and has had multiple top 25 players according to their IFPA ranking play it multiple times. In tournament play, the CHAOS jackpot has never been scored.

I also know the rules rather well. I was the person who rewrote them with Chad, after all.

This is actually still the case because years ago I was talking with Josh Sharpe about the rules for JP, and I mentioned to him that I didn't care for how unbalanced the game was with the Chaos jackpots, and I told him that I hated that I had one game that lasted under 3 minutes and yet was my highest score when it wasn't as good as a game that I had that went about 8 minutes and got me to the wizard mode and hitting some of the mode Jackpots. I still remember what Josh said to me, as it made me totally appreciate the scoring for what it was. He said that he would argue the better game was the under 3 minute game, because each game you walk up to, you know you are going for the CHAOS points, and the other points were a way to add some to that. Since I knew walking up to the game that the points were all in the CHAOS jackpots, then that should be my main goal, and if I can get a bunch of other points that will just help raise the scores.

I have never had a problem with the scoring since, and in large part that was why Chad and I also didn't want to change the game. It would have changed the entire way you approach it.

Anyway, on my game, 200mil is a great score. Kudos to the guy that did it

Sorry, don't have pics on hand, but...

The top-side spring that's attached to the jaw link assembly at the back of the t-rex is a compression spring held between the coil bracket and an overly long roll pin that sticks out on either side towards the end of the plunger. That plunger is supposed to come to rest on a rubber nub that makes the plunger push in more when the t-rex is in the upright position. This is the correct setup. When I looked before, I couldn't find a spring with the part number from the manual from any online vendors. A vuk spring should be fine.

The spring below the pf is a tension spring. I found a pack of springs at Lowes and used one of those in this spot.

Your pic makes me think the bracket arm that moves up and down on the rotation is bent. It should be pretty parallel to the wheel.

Thanks Winter. The other spring that I am wondering about is the torsion spring at the base of the neck topside--I included a picture below. The spring has a long arm and a short arm and I just want to make sure I get it back in the right position. I suspect that this spring is there to push T-Rex all the way back when he is in the up position. I have read that some people cannot get their T-Rex to go all the way back and swallow the pinball--it makes me wonder if this spring is missing or improperly placed in those instances.

I did finally find the part number for the extension spring on the underside but it looks like that spring is no longer made and suppliers are out-of-stock--time to improvise like you did with the springs from Lowes.

Also, see in the picture, that grey spacer in the lower right hand corner--there is only supposed to be one of those, right? Mine was under the right side of the plate in front of the T-Rex--there was nothing under the left side. It almost seems like there should at least be a small spacer on the left side so the metal piece under it on the T-Rex is not scraping against it as it moves right and left.

As far as the drive wheel being cock-eyed. Previous owner had screwed the drive wheel on crooked to the motor's shaft making it wobble.

As I continue to shop this machine, I wonder what other little surprises I am going to find...

IMG_0033 (resized).JPG

You can see a pic of that one installed here:
https://images.pinside.com/4/ab/4abe4f45864572df2598ccaf74c35ce0a2cc9b4e/resized/large/4abe4f45864572df2598ccaf74c35ce0a2cc9b4e.jpg

In my experience that spring isn't there so much for lifting the t-rex but for easing the decent on the way down. There are cases where, lacking that spring, the t-rex would go smacking down into the playfield on the way down. The arm underneath is capable of lifting the t-rex into the upright position without this spring being installed.

I would think that's more a function of playfield angle, slop in the jaw link assembly that's driven by the coil in the back of the t-rex, slop in the up/down movement at the motor/arm, and lack of the rubber nub at the back the t-rex under the coil plunger that causes the jaw to close more when the t-rex is fully upright.

I'm honestly not sure what the stock configuration is here. Mine had no spacers, and the t-rex mech was rubbing up against that plate. My solution and recommendation to others has been to put washers under both screw holes to lift the plate up slightly. That spacer in your pic seems way too tall, but in any case, you'd want it to be relatively level so that both sides are parallel to the pf and lifted up off of the t-rex mech.

Edit: BTW, if you're looking to rebuild and get better performance, Marco sells new jaw frames as well as jaw links. Pinball Life has the jaw link for cheaper, but no jaws. Replacing both will remove slop that's developed over time in the jaw. It might not be needed if you get decent jaw performance. You can manually test by leaning the t-rex forward slightly in t-rex diagnostic and pushing in the plunger to close the jaw as far as it will go. Take your other hand and try to move the jaw. If there's much movement up and down in that position, it might be worth replacing the parts.

Edit 2: Here's a pic of the t-rex frame bent down all the way. You can see the black rubber nub I'm referring to that should be present to aid in closing the jaw more when upright.
https://images.pinside.com/2/a9/2a93849775d3610ddbada35a2866c393c5f4d500/resized/large/2a93849775d3610ddbada35a2866c393c5f4d500.jpg

This may be the part from Marco:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5105-00

There should be two spacers, one for each screw on the T-REX plate. I think that they are 1/4", but they may be 1/8" spacers. You will need to measure them.

I purchased my JP from the original owner and when I removed the T-REX plate there was a spacer under each of the 2 screws. The two screws actually go through the two spacers.

Gord

DSCN3353 - Circle (resized).JPG

I have no issue with the scoring. Sometimes I'm playing for score and focus on the multiball. Other times, I'm playing to reach system failure. Actually, as I'm thinking about it, most of the time I start out playing the modes. I rarely shoot for the dinosaur targets, unless there is one left. Even then it's often safer to try to shoot for the boat docks.

On mine one of the spacers is longer than the other. I think one is 1/8" and the one on the right is 1/4". Allows for the ball to roll down.

Who would be willing to throw in like $5 to a paypal fund to get some one to start working on color DMD for JP? I would...lets make a list.

Chitownpinball

Raptor kick doesn't function. I assume it's a fuse. I looked everywhere but can't figure it out.

What fuse goes with the raptor kickback? Anyone know?

I don't know exactly what my life looks like for being clear, but I'd love to take this up. I haven't colored other dots, but I did help Chad with the rules on the code rewrite, so I do have that as a background...

I don't think I could mess with it for a month and a half though...

I'm in ... LCD installed just need the color

image (resized).jpeg

First thing i would check is the diode on the solenoid.

Did you do the lcd? Do they not make the led version for JP yet? I dont really like how big that lcd is inside the backbox and such.

AWESOME!

Take a look at the ColorDMD LED version. Today, you can put one of these in your JP and run the default ROM package (just like the post above). From a coloring perspective, you would need to wait until the folks at ColorDMD create a JP specific ROM file.

The good news is that they just created a SW ROM (Game 47) which was their first DE title. This means we should expect more DE titles in the future.

right, but some one needs to work on the colorization to get it done. they dont do their own colorization, the community does. I was offering to drop $5 into a paypal for who ever wants to take on the challenge. It looks like we will be waiting at least until next year.

Have the LCD installed in JP, wasn't a big deal to install . In my TFTC I went with the LED ... Wanted to see what the appearance looked like, can always switch them out if undesirable.
Again just waiting for colorization for both

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

What really? I thought it was all internal staff at colordmd. Are there any tools available for us to do it?

If so surely the work could be broken down into sections which the community could then work on in a much shorter time frame.

My guess is and JP colorization would have to have ChadH somehow involved. If he says he's working on it then good news. If he denies it then he's probably working on it. Either way we win?...

Speaking of Chad's code, was looking to make the game a little more challenging so I turned off raptor freeze.

I noticed that it also turns off the start of ball "ball save" too, but that the shoot again light still flashes at the start of the turn like normal.

Just a "bug"?

Is there a way to keep the start of ball ball save working, but not the save from the raptor pit? Maybe I just missed it in the settings

Thats how I understand it. Im not sure about the tools, you would have to ask the guys that have done the others.

Does ChadH's code have new animations? If not, surely it ought to work fine anyway.

But yeah, I can't imagine it being coloured without compatibility with v6.0 ... I don't think anyone that knows about it would ever use old code now.

There is def a new animation for the upcoming attractions (Last Action Hero?), not sure what else was released by his code, can't remember.

I did the code with Chad. He programmed, I more or less consulted.

All of the "new" animation was animation that was in the game that was just not used for whatever reason. The upcoming attractions code in particular was disabled at some point when DE was revising the ROMs. Chad simply reactivated it.

We did "change" the animation by replacing some of the numbers on Raptor Rampage, for instance, although from what I know of Color DMD, it would not affect how it works.

No matter what, I did just contact them and inquire about doing JP

My stock V3 or V4 (It was old code) Japan code had the Last Action Hero animation enabled. When I upgraded to the latest official version of the software shortly after I got the machine, I was sad to see that it was disabled. Glad that the V6 code turned it back on.

oops

Installed the CHAD H code. Kind of disappointed to be honest. It addresses some of the scoring issues better, makes the game a little bit harder with some balance but the bonus is still stingy and should have been executed better imo.
The other thing that would have been a huge plus to me, is like TAF, the amount of modes you do should be added to your bonus as well as ramp shots (like bear kicks). In that regard, there is no ''Max bonus'' and it really adds a level of endless gameplay. I appreciate it being done on his time and for free, just not what I expected.

To me the new code pays for itself by not starting with stapede mode every game.

Agree. Cant bitch about free new code I did not work to get.

Oh,...so I can only comment or ''bitch'' about it if I worked to get it? Please. It's out on the table, it's FREE and it's open for discussion.

Free or not, I spent a lot of time on the old code and then installed this. I said I appreciated that it exists, but more could have been addressed, as it's largely the same. I can honestly say I don't think it makes the game any more fun than it already was. Not starting stampede first is a good thing though. It's not a bad thing that it exists, all I'm saying is if I had the ability to do it, I would have done some of that bonus a little differently, if possible.
To each his own.

Edit* and further more, I sell you a nice, hard to find organ plastic for your HH game, and you scold me with your thumb down and bitching comment?
One for the memory bank.

LOL, forgot you had thin skin. Ill make sure never to question you again sir.