Call for Help:

I bought my machine knowing the right lower flipper gets stuck on during gameplay. I first thought this was a bad EOS fix but after reading Jurassic Park Flipper Hold Issue thread I quickly realized my issue wasn't so simple based on the way EOS works in this game. I have a different problem then that thread however.

The issue is when the lower right flipper gets activated it stays activated until the end of the ball. Afterwards the game drops power to the flippers and the flipper returns home. As soon as I press the right flipper again though its stuck back on. The coil is definitely active while its stuck on because I can't push the flipper down manually.

After reading that other JP flipper thread I took a look at the flipper control board and noticed mine looked kind of crusty. Take a look at the photo... what are those resistors added to those two chips doing? Theres no way thats factory right? Did I get a dodgy hacked up FCB? Any ideas what I should try next? I can confirm the board LEDs light up when the cabinet buttons are pressed and the stuck flipper LED doesn't stay on even though the flipper is still active. I'm worried my simple flipper rebuild has turned into larger board problems.

Anyone have any ideas?

Another minor thing I noticed and not sure if its common on JP but the DMD seems very noisy. I read some posts that buying a new one fixes this on some games but theres nothing seemingly wrong with my display. It just makes a lot of electronic noise. Common or Not on JP?

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Hey Time,

I don't see those resistors on my JP Flipper board. Looks like someone was looking to address a voltage or current issue(?) Do you have the schematics?

My JP flipper board had been repaired in the past, and was blowing a Fuse (F3). I replaced a very toasty TIP36C, 1N4004 & a 47 Ohm resistor next to the blown F3 fuse and all was well. My repair replaced the prior repair - so posibly some other upstream issue is the root (?) Poke around the TIP36C transistors, diodes & resistors. Everything is very easy to get to on that board.

As for 60Hz hum... Yep, apparently a very typical DE sound board issue, and was very prevalent on my JP. Is very likely related to ground loop issues. The common fix is to "float" the sound board OFF the backboard ground plate. This is pretty simple, actually and reduced the hum by 90% on my machine.

All you need to do is place nylon washers under the mounting screw heads to break the connection with back plate ground. There are no traces on the backside of the sound board at the mtg screw points (at least on my machine), so no need to insert washers behind the board itself.

Good luck!

very cool indeed .... You could combine some very special lighting effects under that unit. I would not part with it however if you decide to let it go , please let me know!

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Anyone match a nice paint match for the black on cab? Touching up the head on mine
Thx

I used Valspar Satin Black (spray and 1/2 pint can). Was a pretty good match in color and sheen. I filled the largest blemishes with wood putty, sanded, masked and sprayed. Came out pretty good, the deepest gashes disappeared.

I dip a paper towel into the can and wipe-on/wipe-off to hide the light duty scratches and slightly raised grain patches on the body.

I have not attempted to match or touch-up the Red or Yellow. I do have a couple spots/scratches I could probably improve, but I left these alone - not terrible at all.

With the DE Deger flipper board, if the diode on the flipper coil is bad, broken at one end, or missing entirely, this is exactly what happens.

The flipper will stay up until the power is cut to that circuit.

Check the diode on that flipper coil.

RussMyers

Thank you. I will check this closely tonight. I have a flipper rebuild kit on it's way but I don't believe it includes the diodes. I'll look it up and order some. My machine didn't include a manual but I've ordered one. I've taken a look at the one on IPDB but the schematics are hard to read in PDF form for me.

Thanks, I'll try that. I noticed last night my GI plug on the power supply board was yellow and sorta melted on one side. I think this is whats casing my GI problems. I touched around there looking for lose wires and noticed the plug was very hot. Kind of wondering if I should pull out the boards out and check every connection while I'm at it.

Thanks mark

This was exactly it! Thank you! I bought a diode at Radio Shack tonight to install but just messing with the original one on the coil seemed to fix the issue for now. So glad this turned out to be simple.

New Rom Question. Waiting to hear back from John Wart but I installed both new Chad code roms and all I get is the GI lights and 1 T Rex roar. No boot no display. I put both roms exactly as explained. Took them out and put old ones back in and it works perfect. Am I missing something simple?

The notches on the chips are facing the same direction? You're not looking at the sticker orientation, correct?

Using notches. Yep

Did you do this with the board out or in? VERY easy to get one leg hanging out of the socket when installing either way. If the roms are good, i'm betting my money on this.

Thanks....legs all went in perfect. have swapped twice to try and make sure and old roms work and new ones I get nothing.

Im guessing there is no way to test...Still waiting to hear back form John

We're can I buy the after market T. rex that eats the ball?

probably part by part at some online shops
not a lot of complete assemblys for sale

maybe ebay

Follow this thread and hope that Winter keeps making them.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress

Could use some help if anyone in the group has gone through this. Several months ago, I updated the code on my JP to Chad's code. It's obviously pretty incredible. Then my sound board started having some issues, and even after reseating the connectors multiple times, it was still not resolved, so I opted to go all-in, and bought a Pinsound board, as well as Flipper Fidelity speakers, to do a serious sound upgrade. Endprodukt had posted that they were working on some great new sound programs via Pinsound, for JP. Thought like it made a lot of sense, until I installed the Pinsound board last night, and went to try and find Endprodukt's audio file on the Pinsound Community Forum. Nothing there, and only the original JP audio files. Needless to say, these don't work with Chad's code, so unless I revert to the original ROMs, I have no audio. My JP is essentially a giant paperweight. Has anyone gotten the configuration with Chad's code, and Endprodukt's audio file, to work? Thanks in advance for your help!

Yeah, i heard that there were copyright issues with a lot of machines is that true? Anyway there is a guy around here creating a file for jp. Maybe check the jp mods thread?

Is there a setting in Chad new rom that turns off the T rex start up test ?

Hold the ball launch trigger right after you flip the power on, and release after it hits "insert credits" or "free play". You need to have completed a game once prior to it being operational.

Does that turn it off for that boot. Or forever ? Thx!

Just that time. Gotta do it every time you turn on the game.

The other guys answered it... but everything you ever wanted to know is here:
http://www.pinballcode.com/jp6

T-Rex Diagnostics

Original: Always runs at bootup or after a reset.

Update: Holding down gun trigger at boot up or reset will skip T-Rex Diagnostics. You must have at least one full game played in your audits for this ability to become active. You only really have to be holding the trigger down the moment the game goes from showing the version info to showing attract mode. This means you can reach down with your right hand, turn on the game, then bring your right hand up to the trigger and hold it until attract mode starts.

Thx!

Thanks Rondogg. I've heard the same thing, hence no major supported release. I was able to get a copy of the files from Endprodukt. My JP is back in business!

Just curious how the endprodukt sound came out...

Hate to ask a stupid question but I am leveling JP. Left/right is easy but on the right bubble under the score card is the degree bubble supposed to be the same as the picture or is that just a reference? Want the game to play fast but still enable T rex to eat balls correctly.

i always use a leveler on the playfield,

top playfield ,bottem playfield not on inserts.
best way imo

Yeah I use a level too but wanted to see where JP should be. Actually just found in manual it says 6.5 degrees. Is that what most of you do?

I lwvel ot to however it makes the vuk actually work.

Just joined the club this weekend, I love this game and can only imagine how much fun it is going to be with v6.00. One thing I have noticed is that 80%-90% of the time the Skill Shot (shooting the ball into play) ends up going into the Power Shed. Is this normal or is there something that I need to adjust so that its not going into the Power Shed so frequently?

It should go into the pops.

Agreed, you need to investigate and adjust something. It should go into the pop bumpers every time.

There's a gate that leads into the jets that prevents it from going in there from the shooter lane--it might be that my gate is broken. I recall reading that one of the gates on the JP machine is prone to failing. I bet that is the case here. Can somebody take a picture of that gate so I can see what it should look like.

Hopefully these help.

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Yes, they do, very much. Previous owner put the gate on backwards. Reversed the gate and now working as it should.

So, just in case anybody was wondering what happens if you reverse the gate at the jets it will bounce the ball from the shooter lane into the power shed 8-9/10 times. Now there's a nice piece of useless info for you.

Thanks again guys.

It's game changing! Absolutely amazing to play now. I'm addicted to it once again! I highly recommend the upgrade!

The original black rubber was so cracked, dead and broken, worst I've seen on a game I think. Shopped this out and made a red rubber kit at titanpinball.com with some corrections because the manual is incorrect. Some leds, and flashers. I am now just waiting on the new rom and cliffy scoop protectors, it plays like new!

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Anyone install a pinsound board on their JP? Any video?

there is one video on Youtube, it's pretty good.

Search endprodukt jurassic on youtube. Not sure if thats the final version tho?

What's the deal with those weird post sleeves with the nipples on top?

What makes the post sleeves weird? They're threaded at the top, so figured why not color match with acorns.

I just installed one over the weekend. I reached out to Endprodukt. I recommend you do the same if interested in getting his files. He finished 95%, which is outstanding, and works great on my pin. It works with Chad's code upgrade, which is the key. The original sound files through Pinsound didn't work for me, with Chad's code, so you need Endprodukt's sound files to truly take advantage of a Chad's code with your pnsound board. With these upgrades, it's like a whole new machine! For video, Endprodukt posted one on YouTube. Look for Jurassic Park Pinball PinSound. Should come right up.

I've just never seen those nipples before I guess...didn't realize they were separate.

After watching his video, I realize that there are some animations on the DMD that I have not seen on my game. And I am running Chad's 6.00 code. I will have to investigate.

which video?

A friend of mine has this pin, but lately he can't play it. Once he launches the ball his flippers don't work anymore. I found this really strange, but have never had/worked on a Data East game. Any tips or starting points to track this down?
Thanks guys

Well, when ball trough kicks, the flippers then energize by I believe a relay that turns on the 50v coils. With the door closed and the playfield glass off, after the ball launches, do other coils fire?

The first thing to check is fuse F5 on the ppb board, it's slightly hidden.