Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993Quoted from jim5six:Yes all players will get the same first mode lit. Since the rest can be changed via pop bumpers i think its the right thing to do so all players are on an equal playing field at the beginning of the game.
-Jim
Exactly! 
T-rex goes up and down forever when game boots and diagnostics start. During game play he continues going up and down. What switches am I looking at to troubleshoot? First time fixing a T-Rex. Thx for any help.
Quoted from billsfanmd:T-rex goes up and down forever when game boots and diagnostics start. During game play he continues going up and down. What switches am I looking at to troubleshoot? First time fixing a T-Rex. Thx for any help.
One of these days I'll write up the definitive t-rex guide. It's kind of my area of expertise 
If you lift the pf and look at the t-rex mech, you'll see there are 2 switches that are activated in the up/down motion of the t-rex. One for up and one for down. That's where to start.
Though maybe go into t-rex diagnostics first and drive the t-rex up and down to see if the switches register. If, for example, up never registers, that's the culprit.
It's probably likely to be the up switch as I think it would fail diagnostics and stay up if that switch was registering and down wasn't.
Quoted from winteriscoming:One of these days I'll write up the definitive t-rex guide. It's kind of my area of expertise
If you lift the pf and look at the t-rex mech, you'll see there are 2 switches that are activated in the up/down motion of the t-rex. One for up and one for down. That's where to start.
Though maybe go into t-rex diagnostics first and drive the t-rex up and down to see if the switches register. If, for example, up never registers, that's the culprit.
It's probably likely to be the up switch as I think it would fail diagnostics and stay up if that switch was registering and down wasn't.
Thx. I'll try tomorrow and report back
Quoted from winteriscoming:One of these days I'll write up the definitive t-rex guide. It's kind of my area of expertise
YES. PLEASE.
Quoted from winteriscoming:One of these days I'll write up the definitive t-rex guide. It's kind of my area of expertise
If you lift the pf and look at the t-rex mech, you'll see there are 2 switches that are activated in the up/down motion of the t-rex. One for up and one for down. That's where to start.
Though maybe go into t-rex diagnostics first and drive the t-rex up and down to see if the switches register. If, for example, up never registers, that's the culprit.
It's probably likely to be the up switch as I think it would fail diagnostics and stay up if that switch was registering and down wasn't.
Hey I think I fixed T Rex. He seems a little noisy and slow going left to right. should I use anything to lubricate underneath?
Thx
Quoted from billsfanmd:Hey I think I fixed T Rex. He seems a little noisy and slow going left to right. should I use anything to lubricate underneath?
Thx
Disable the left/right movement. 
Quoted from billsfanmd:Anyone have the new Roms they can sell me ? Thx
Mike
Try ... That pinball place ... John Wart got me my set for JP as well as TFTC ...
Quoted from transprtr4u:Try ... That pinball place ... John Wart got me my set for JP as well as TFTC ...
Yep. Just sent email thx
If anyone is selling Chad's code they better be doing so at his approval, and he better be getting a cut.
Quoted from Bugsy:If anyone is selling Chad's code
As I do not make my own ROMs I reached out to Chad and he referred me to John!
Chad does take donations on his site..for his effort!
Quoted from Bugsy:If anyone is selling Chad's code they better be doing so at his approval, and he better be getting a cut.
Calm down, nothing is fucked here man.
Yeah, I pretty sure Chad released the roms for people to burn. If I remember correctly he does have a paypal address though where you can make a donation. Maybe I'm wrong though. I'm sure there are some complicated things with working on coding for a machine that another company owns the rights too. I hope in the future some other titles can be done, including Williams/Bally. There are so many games that could benefit from updated coding.
Quoted from kimzone:My JP has an issue where the smart missile just fires went you hit first pop bumper don't shore why it does that
Put the game in Diagnostics - Switch Test mode.
Take off the glass.
Push on the pop bumper skirt with your finger.
What switch registers on the display?
RM
Quoted from winteriscoming:One of these days I'll write up the definitive t-rex guide.
Anything you can say would be most important to address during a rebuild, without having to go into explaining how?
I think this is normal, but please correct me if I'm mistaken. Why does the left most pop bumper often not light with the other two? Is there some meaning behind which pop bumpers are lit? If not, has anyone ever rewired them so they just all light together? I guess to me it just makes it look like that third one is broken. Thoughts?
Since I'm posting I'll add a few more pictures of minor lighting mods.
1) I already posted how I removed the "Shoot T-Rex" box. Instead I mounted the light below the scoop. I originally added the spotlight to the screw on the right, but found this blocked too much of the scoop from the players perspective. I moved it to the left. I also also added the chained goat back to my machine.
IMG_1943 (resized).JPG
I added an 8" LED strip to further illuminate the topper. I might eventually tap into the shoot t-rex wire so that it illuminates red when it's time to feed t-rex. Anyone have any other recommendations on fun ways incorporate the topper lighting into the gameplay?
IMG_1938 (resized).JPG
Quoted from winteriscoming:One of these days I'll write up the definitive t-rex guide. It's kind of my area of expertise
If you lift the pf and look at the t-rex mech, you'll see there are 2 switches that are activated in the up/down motion of the t-rex. One for up and one for down. That's where to start.
Though maybe go into t-rex diagnostics first and drive the t-rex up and down to see if the switches register. If, for example, up never registers, that's the culprit.
It's probably likely to be the up switch as I think it would fail diagnostics and stay up if that switch was registering and down wasn't.
Probably a dumb question (more of a sanity check) about adjusting your T-Rex. I've bent the two metal "teeth" on the lower jaw as shown in your video and I've got it to the point where in a game it will pick up the ball by trapping it between the upper and lower "teeth" but not actually get it all the way into its mouth. It can carry the ball pinched between the upper and lower "teeth" to its fully upright position, but the ball doesn't go in T-Rex's mouth. Does that mean I need to bend the lower teeth even more?
Just joined the JP club. My machine needs a lot of work and seeing the huge list of mods out there I can already see I'll be dumping buckets of cash into this one. Right off the bat I've got to fix an intermittent stuck flipper, missing a coin mech, broken button on service switch, and my back banner plastic is melted out of the shape. I think I'll be spending a good part of this weekend just figuring out what I need to get.
Quoted from billsfanmd:What are correct leg lengths for Jp? Would modern stern black legs work? Thx
JP Original was 28.5", modern Stern is 30.5. Minor height change, but still usable.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Probably a dumb question (more of a sanity check) about adjusting your T-Rex. I've bent the two metal "teeth" on the lower jaw as shown in your video and I've got it to the point where in a game it will pick up the ball by trapping it between the upper and lower "teeth" but not actually get it all the way into its mouth. It can carry the ball pinched between the upper and lower "teeth" to its fully upright position, but the ball doesn't go in T-Rex's mouth. Does that mean I need to bend the lower teeth even more?
I had a problem with my T-Rex swallowing the ball after it picked it up (the ball stayed in the front part of the mouth, just behind the "teeth"). Below is what I posted about my fix in the Improved T-Rex thread. Maybe something in this will help you out.
"I was able to get my T-Rex swallowing the ball 100% of the time and thought I would post what I did in case others have the problem.
When I added the improved T-Rex body my T-Rex would not stay vertical. My mechanism had some slack in it and as best as I can tell, the added weight of the new body was enough to make the T-Rex lean forward a little. I tried a new up/down motor to try and get rid of the slack as its gears seemed a little sloppy. This did not fix the slack issue. Next, I shortened the link arm from the motor cam to the bottom of the T-Rex frame. I did this by making the angles more acute where the link arm has a short horizontal offset bend. By bending the horizontal piece to be more of a "Z" shape I was able to take about 1/8" out of the link arm length and now my T-Rex is vertical with no slack (you cannot push the T-Rex forward or backward a little, like before) when the motor is all the way up. This seemed to help the ball swallowing problem a little. That is, about 50% of the time the T-Rex would swallow the ball when it chomped (but not immediately upon the T-Rex becoming vertical).
My T-Rex's jaw was open enough when the T-Rex was vertical that the ball could fall out the mouth. I added a felt pad to the pad under the chomping solenoid as suggested by Winteriscoming. This kept the ball from falling out, but originally I had such a thick felt pad (I am using one of those stick on pads that Home Depot sells for sticking on chair legs for sliders) that the jaw was completely shut when the T-Rex was vertical (i.e., the jaw did not move when he chomped). Still, the ball did not roll down his throat and now without the chomping, there was nothing to cause the ball to roll back into the throat. I used an Xacto knife to make the felt pad thinner (down to about 1/8") so the T-Rex chomps when vertical, but still not swallowing the ball 100%.
I noticed that there was some slack in the chomping mechanism. That is, I could push the chomping solenoid in by hand and the jaw could still open and close a little. When I originally installed the improved T-Rex I didn't want to drill out the rivet in the jaw, so I ordered a new one from Marco. The jaw link arm from the chomping solenoid to the jaw was difficult to get into the hole on the jaw, so I drilled out the hole on the jaw a little. It turns out that this made the hole large enough that the link arm could move up and down some without engaging the jaw. I ordered another jaw from Marco and while I was at it I ordered a new jaw link arm. It turns out that my link arm was slightly shorter than the new one from Marco (I think Winteriscoming mentioned that there were a number of the link arms that had issues and you should check them, but mine appeared okay when I looked at it with nothing to compare it to). The combination of the longer link arm and the jaw with the original/smaller hole tightened up the slack in the chomping movement.
With all of the above, my T-Rex is now working 100% with the improved T-Rex. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to post my experience in case it can help someone else with T-Rex problems.
Ross"
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Probably a dumb question (more of a sanity check) about adjusting your T-Rex. I've bent the two metal "teeth" on the lower jaw as shown in your video and I've got it to the point where in a game it will pick up the ball by trapping it between the upper and lower "teeth" but not actually get it all the way into its mouth. It can carry the ball pinched between the upper and lower "teeth" to its fully upright position, but the ball doesn't go in T-Rex's mouth. Does that mean I need to bend the lower teeth even more?
For me that was the case. The ball would get picked up by the tabs and stay there. Bending the tabs out more would keep the ball from getting picked up by the edge of the tabs and being stuck until moving down again.
If the ball makes it into the mouth, behind the tabs, but stays there without swallowing, then it's going to be more of an issue with playfield angle/padding behind the link assembly, and/or rviguet's suggestion.
Quoted from Vanapult:Anything you can say would be most important to address during a rebuild, without having to go into explaining how?
A new link assembly and jaw frame are kind of nice. That should help stiffen up the jaw movement which would become looser as the nub on the link wears down the hole in the jaw frame.
Other than that, just ensure all switches are registering and correct/replace as needed.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Hey I think I fixed T Rex. He seems a little noisy and slow going left to right. should I use anything to lubricate underneath?
Thx
Left/right motion is kind of noisy and, due to a software update, not as fast and smooth moving to help with wear on the gears.
I wouldn't lubricate, for me the the metal tray piece in front of the t-rex, screwed on with 2 screws was kind of binding against the left/right guide post thing that sits comes up through the track below it. I added washers under the tray to lift it off a little and it helped my t-rex.
You can test by loosening those screws or removing the tray to see if it helps.
Quoted from winteriscoming:Left/right motion is kind of noisy and, due to a software update, not as fast and smooth moving to help with wear on the gears.
I wouldn't lubricate, for me the the metal tray piece in front of the t-rex, screwed on with 2 screws was kind of binding against the left/right guide post thing that sits comes up through the track below it. I added washers under the tray to lift it off a little and it helped my t-rex.
You can test by loosening those screws or removing the tray to see if it helps.
thx. I noticed that plate as well...Mine moves pretty smooth now. Adjusted a switch and just let it go back and forth a few times and it seems much bettee.
Quoted from phyreteam:JP Original was 28.5", modern Stern is 30.5. Minor height change, but still usable.
I had the same confusion. This pinside post cleared it up for me. The manual says #535-5020-30 but apprently those were originally 28.5". You'd think that ending in -30 would mean 30" legs but guess not. The replacement 30.5" worked well for me anyways.
Quoted from pinaholic:What's the going rate for a nice example?
Got one last week for 2k. Mine needs a flipper rebuild, full cleaning, some bulbs, one coin mech, and the "when dinosaurs ruled the earth" banner is a little melted and bent. Cabinet and play-field were acceptable 7/10. You see a lot of ebay for around 5K. I sort of wonder who's buying those.
Quoted from Time:I sort of wonder who's buying those.
No one. You'll see them re-listed several times.
Big thank you to Agent Hero on Pinside. Mailing me a missing pterodactyl bird. For all the drama on pinside its great when someone helps you out. I help alot of people and its nice when pinball karma helps out.
Quoted from Time:Got one last week for 2k. Mine needs a flipper rebuild, full cleaning, some bulbs, one coin mech, and the "when dinosaurs ruled the earth" banner is a little melted and bent. Cabinet and play-field were acceptable 7/10. You see a lot of ebay for around 5K. I sort of wonder who's buying those.
That's a pretty good deal. I've seen a couple go for around $2300 - $2500. That's seems to be (IMO) where a really nice stock JP's ceiling is right now.
Also, eBay is the worst for price comparisons. It's amazing how many times I'll look to buy a machine off of Craigslist and people are like, "Well this machine is $5k on eBay, why are you trying to rip me off?!?"
Quoted from Time:You see a lot of ebay for around 5K
eBay prices are a joke. It sucks because most people who don't know pinball and want sell their games on Craigslist will ask insane prices and cite eBay: "This game is going for $4K on eBay, I'm only asking for $3K" on a game like Meteor or something.
Don't ever take serious consideration on those prices on eBay, they are at least 3x times more than realistic.
Quoted from aobrien5:There's a topper in the market place now, though a bit overpriced
Think this is the one that you are referring to ......?
Quoted from transprtr4u:Think this is the one that you are referring to ......?
Dumb question. I've replaced a few start button lights in my day. 
. You turn the switch until you think it's going to break then it releases. On JP I need to replace start button light. How does it turn? Don't want to snap it off.
Thx
Quoted from comment23:That's a pretty good deal. I've seen a couple go for around $2300 - $2500. That's seems to be (IMO) where a really nice stock JP's ceiling is right now.
I got the machine home, plugged it in and noticed half my GI and back box lighting is out. Fuses were good and nothing on the GI line looked out of place or burnt. What a serious bummer. Was super regretting this deal for about 30 minutes then I decided to check all the plugs on the board. Yep, that was it. One wasn't fully connected. So relieved. ...Sorta. The GI reflector lights that light up the T-REX are still out. My machine had 70% LEDs including these so its not the bulbs. Haven't investigated further yet but it was an unexpected issue. While I thought I got a good deal I did somehow just spend $277 for this machine at pinball life. Planning to do a complete restore with mods but not going to mess with the machine until those parts arrive.
Does anyone sell repo stickers? Specifically that grass sticker directly below the T-REX? The ball hits that area so I'm sure everyone's machine is pretty worn there.
Quoted from Time:I got the machine home, plugged it in and noticed half my GI and back box lighting is out. Fuses were good and nothing on the GI line looked out of place or burnt. What a serious bummer. Was super regretting this deal for about 30 minutes then I decided to check all the plugs on the board. Yep, that was it. One wasn't fully connected. So relieved. ...Sorta. The GI reflector lights that light up the T-REX are still out. My machine had 70% LEDs including these so its not the bulbs. Haven't investigated further yet but it was an unexpected issue. While I thought I got a good deal I did somehow just spend $277 for this machine at pinball life. Planning to do a complete restore with mods but not going to mess with the machine until those parts arrive.
Does anyone sell repo stickers? Specifically that grass sticker directly below the T-REX? The ball hits that area so I'm sure everyone's machine is pretty worn there.
Pm me your email address and i will send you the scans of all the decals including that one. Print it out slap some mylar on it and glue to where it goes. Should last a lifetime. Anyone else reading this too...
Quoted from billsfanmd:Just trying to get current info on availability of a Topper or one of the teradactyl birds?
Thx
I've got two toppers: The original, which isn't on my machine and would like to keep (unless a good offer comes my way) and a clear prototyped plastic topper. Haven't seen another prototyped listed anywhere so I'm not sure what I'd sell it for yet. All are welcome to PM if interested.
Quoted from Time:Got one last week for 2k. Mine needs a flipper rebuild, full cleaning, some bulbs, one coin mech, and the "when dinosaurs ruled the earth" banner is a little melted and bent. Cabinet and play-field were acceptable 7/10. You see a lot of ebay for around 5K. I sort of wonder who's buying those.
Got my JP for just under 2k a few months back. Just noticed an outline post wasn't tightened down by the previous owner and caused the playfield to splinter a bit when it got bent. Open to suggestions on how to fix it (thinking of pulling it and placing a washer under the post to keep the plywood from any further damage.)
It could also use a new translite. Still feel like I got a phenomenal price at $1900
Quoted from timelord_warner:I've got two toppers:
Pics of the prototype topper?
Quoted from transprtr4u:Pics of the prototype topper?
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