(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



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There are 7952 posts in this topic. You are on page 52 of 160.
#2551 3 years ago

If you'd like any photos for comparison, let me know.

#2552 3 years ago

Found the D5 diode to be bad. replaced it and it no longer blows the fuse. I still have no dmd though. Need to go through the steps to check that.

#2553 3 years ago

Good start on the D5 find. Are you getting voltage readings at the DMD connector? Mine were way off, not just marginally bad. Can you swap your JP DMD into another machine to see if it is truly fried?

I also replaced the ribbon cable. There was a severe crimp in my original cable.

#2554 3 years ago

Update.
Removed dmd from Jurassic park, Placed in High Speed 2 just to test. Lights up gargled. Proof dot matrix is not completely shot. tested power on board. I get really low voltages on first two which should be reading around 110-125v. 5v is good 12v is good 62v is good. Anything specific I should be looking for on the power supply board as the culprit.
I see you suggest The cap ( there are two) nearest the .5 fuse. I may just order a new ps board seeing how this one looks to have been through the ringer with repairs in its past.

Apparently this kinda thing is major data east fault.

#2555 3 years ago

Looking at my JP board just now, I also replaced D5 diode (mine was cracked).

The nearby transistors should be easy to reach/test (TR1, TR2, TR3, TR4, TR6). Probe the other components in that section for obvious issues (shorts & opens), though probing components in-circuit can produce misleading results. This is about the limit of my diagnostics. But, I have replaced transistors/diodes on the MPU and flipper board via this approach with good results. Replacing caps for new certainly cannot hurt and should be a very simple task.

I have a rottendog PS board I used initially before repairing the original board. It worked but seriously exacerbated the 60Hz hum thru the speakers. I was happy to swap the original board back in - after floating the sound board hum is reduced nearly 100%.

#2556 3 years ago

^ I plan on ordering the rottendog board today and I'm somewhat proficient with soldering components. My lack of ability comes in when I use the voltmeter. But, as with everything my knowledge base should grow and hopefully ill be able to repair the original soon. I appreciate the tips. Thank you. Hopefully ill be playing jp again soon.

#2557 3 years ago
Quoted from zomdom:

^ I plan on ordering the rottendog board today and I'm somewhat proficient with soldering components. My lack of ability comes in when I use the voltmeter. But, as with everything my knowledge base should grow and hopefully ill be able to repair the original soon. I appreciate the tips. Thank you. Hopefully ill be playing jp again soon.

be sure you get the latest version board from rottendog.

#2558 3 years ago

DPS005?

#2559 3 years ago
Quoted from zomdom:

I plan on ordering the rottendog board today

I had a rottendog in mine when I got it ... However had issues with my colordmd with that board . Changed to X-Pin and was completely compatible!

#2560 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

I had a rottendog in mine when I got it ... However had issues with my colordmd with that board . Changed to X-Pin and was completely compatible!

I've learned that it always best to spend the extra money and get the X-Pin instead of the Rottendog.

#2561 3 years ago

on backorder....(xpin)

#2562 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Always start with the fuses.

I am finally getting some time to diagnose my ill JP. Taking the above advice, I did find 3 fuses blown -
Power Supply Board: F5 (4A), F1 (7A)
Playfield Power Board (PPB): F9 (4A)

I don't have any 4A fuses, so hope to run out tomorrow to get some (if no luck, can I use 3A ones while I try to diagnose?). But, I see that F9 on the PPB connects to the shaker motor. In case the problem stems from the shaker, how can I take it offline to see if the game runs fine without it?

Looking at the fuses, none are obviously blown, but they certainly do not have continuity. Does anyone have thoughts on how these three blown fuses might be related?

#2563 3 years ago

You can use a lower amperage fuse to test, but never a higher value. However if the 3 amp fuse blows it may not mean much or help diagnosis since it might just not be able to handle the load on it.

#2564 3 years ago

I haven't had my JP for long but I was able to put up a solid 1.1 billion point game a few nights ago. Normal outlane settings, normal difficulty software settings, running Chad's code.

What's everyone else's high score?

(I didn't realize until after the game that the Jackpot and Super Jack during the chaos mode is based on how many balls you have in play. I only got a few 200 million point jacks because I only had two balls in play. Next time I will know to try and keep as many balls out there in order to try and score a 600 million point jack with all 6 balls in play. Easier said than done though.)

#2565 3 years ago

Yeah, the Chaos Jackpot is where the big points are. The game is more balanced with Chad's code, but if you're going for a high score you need to focus there.

#2566 3 years ago

1,264,740,320 Currently #12 on the Pinside High scores.

I had only had the game briefly at that point as well, and actually thought it was a software issue or a switch that was scoring me random points. After explaining the steps here in this forum, it was confirmed that my actions did in fact cause that high of score.

I really had no idea what I was doing. I think I understood how to get the Jackpot, but after that, I was just flipping until all the ball drained.

And this was pre-chad's code.

*Edit. I will say that my high score with Chad's code is around 600m I think.

#2567 3 years ago

So here's a scenario/question: Let's say you are in the chaos mode, you have gotten all the chaos letters, and the jackpots are lit. If you use your smart missile here, will it pick up both jackpot and super jackpot, or just one of them? Because if you were able to get there and use the smart missile then, you could really rack up some score with just that button.

I would try this out myself, but some newer purchases have taken up the remaining square footage in our game room and I had to move JP to a place which is rather difficult to get to now...

#2568 3 years ago

and heres where im at. New ps board. Display is showing this.

20160908_182656 (resized).jpg

#2569 3 years ago

how old is dmd is it original 1993 cherry dmd?

#2570 3 years ago

Can you test your DMD in another game? That will help troubleshoot if it's a bad display or not.

#2571 3 years ago

The controller board is original no doubt, where might the name for the display be? Ill check it today. All of my other games are Williams, I may be able to try it in one?

#2572 3 years ago

Need to replace the microswitch under the center scoop. The switch is part number 500-5442-01 - gonna order it from marco. I want to replace the diode too rather than using what's there. Marco lists the assembly here, but is out of stock: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5700-00. Anyone know what diode to use? 1N4001/1N4004? Does it even matter?

#2573 3 years ago

Picked up a JP recently with rusted ramp flap. Anyone make a reproduction flap?

#2574 3 years ago
Quoted from JDinNOVA:

Picked up a JP recently with rusted ramp flap. Anyone make a reproduction flap?

If it's just rusted, you should be able to shine that up. Evaporust seems to be the choice rust remover here. Not sure what the proper method would be for a ramp flap that riveted to the ramp though.

#2575 3 years ago

Christ I just put in the V6 ROMs.

Turns the way you play the game upside down.

I said this on another forum; it's like trying to do your signature with the opposite hand.

You know what it looks like, you know how to do it but you have to re-learn the way
Breath of fresh air it is

#2576 3 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

I am finally getting some time to diagnose my ill JP. Taking the above advice, I did find 3 fuses blown -
Power Supply Board: F5 (4A), F1 (7A)
Playfield Power Board (PPB): F9 (4A)

So, because the shaker was running, I unplugged the feeds to it, replaced the fuses, and turned on the game. No fuses blew on the PPB, but F1 and F2 blew. These are in line with the bridge rectifier BR1, and when I tested, one leg was shorted. So, I replaced BR1.

Now the game boots up and will start a game, so that is a major advance. But it is three steps forward and two back. The flipper buttons are now not controlling the flippers, but the raptor and shooter solenoids. I tested all the fuses again, and now F5 on the PPB is blown. This is in line with the BR1. It is hard for me to imagine that both bridge rectifiers, on the PB and PPB, could go at the same time. When I test with my DMM in diode mode, I get the correct value, about 0.47 on all the legs. HOWEVER, this is regardless of whether I have the red or black lead on the + or - terminals. Same reading with either lead. Does this mean that there are voltage drops on BR1 regardless of the diode direction and it has failed, or is it just acting like a normal diode that cannot be tested in circuit?

If it is not BR1, any thoughts on where the problem might be? Thanks!

#2577 3 years ago

Best score so far on the new code. Havent had a lot of time to play in the last 4 months. I agree, this game is WAY upgraded with the new code. Changes the whole way you play. So fun.

IMG_1762 (resized).JPG

#2578 3 years ago
Quoted from Renouart:

If it is not BR1, any thoughts on where the problem might be? Thanks!

I'll move this to a new tech thread.

#2579 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Best score so far on the new code

Is that only 200 million? I'm not trying to sound rude or mean, but that's a pretty low score for this game. Do you know the rules and how to score on this game? There are many points to be had if you can get into the Chaos mode. Just one jackpot at its lowest value is 200 million points. And if you've gotten to the Chaos mode you would have had to have scored at least one jackpot during tri-ball. So just getting to Chaos would probably put you over the 200 million mark. And if you can score a Chaos jackpot, I believe the value of the jackpot is based on how many balls you still have in play. So if you can score a jack with 6 balls in play, that's a 600 million point jack.

You can read the rules here: http://pinball.org/rules/jurassicpark.html

Again, not trying to be mean or rude, just trying to inform a fellow pinsider because reading this really helped me out in how to score big on this game. Hope this helps. My high score right now is only 1.1 billion, but I'm definitely looking to get into the 2 billion before feeling good about my score.

#2580 3 years ago

Do you have the new chad code? I did hit chaos in that game, just didnt score the jackpot.

Edit: no, you obviously dont have the most up to date code because you posted rules from 1994, lol. Get with the times man.

#2581 3 years ago

I absolutely do have the new code, it was the first thing I did to the game when I bought it. The rules I posted are basics to go off of and still pretty much tell you how to progress through the game. Sorry for trying to help.

#2582 3 years ago

Hey everyone, I've had a Jurassic Park for almost a year and I have two small issues. First is the somewhat common issue of the 2 green standups misaligning.
Has anyone successfully used the MezelMod splints for these? http://mezelmods.com/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721
If so which ones? I think the green target in the triple bank might be too crowded, but wondering if I could order the 1/2" or 1/4" version of the splint for the upper one.
And beyond that, is the only solution to shave the side of the target's plastic housing so it doesn't get wedged in misalignment?
IMG_20160925_115301 (resized).jpg

Another issue is that sometimes the ball hops off the wireform at the right and in to the outlane. This isn't common, maybe once in 20-30 games, but very annoying when it does happen.
Does this happen for anyone else?
Mots often it's the ball rocketing down from the ramp shot, but every once in a while the ball jiggles out the side after the VUK.
I have my game a bit steeper than normal, so wondering if I have to either A) weld an extension rail to the VUK exit wireform to hold everything in place or B) give up and reduce steepness...
IMG_20160925_121017 (resized).jpg

#2583 3 years ago

So as a ghetto fix I simply bent a paper clip around the wire form in the area where the ball was falling out. For my game, my ball was exiting the wire form and rolling over the sling plastic. I just got a paper clip and wrapped it so that it made sure the ball couldn't exit that same way. It's hardly noticeable when playing. It's not a permanent fix, but it does keep the ball from potentially damaging the plastic.

I think a better permanent solution is to soften the impact the ball makes when it hits the end of the wire form. I think that's what makes the ball "jostle" and ricochet out. So a piece of rubber or foam attached at the impact area should help this.

#2584 3 years ago

Brilliant. It's doing this on mine too. Whorey paper clip job here I come

#2585 3 years ago

Haha like I said it's not the most brilliant fix but it does get the job done. I will hopefully follow up soon with a picture of some installed foam padding that will look nicer and work just as well.

#2586 3 years ago

I did the paperclip fix and haven't had a single comment on it. I think because it's your game you notice it, but assuming you bent it into a somewhat decent shape, it's hard for most to spot.

PS: I also use paperclips to mount all of my mods.

#2587 3 years ago

Being that the standup target holder thing from Mezel Mods is 3D printed, I can't imagine it would hold up over time. Even metal breaks in pinball machines.

I just ended up shaving my targets so that they don't rub up against anything. Sucks having to alter it in a physical way, but I never notice it anymore, and would much rather have a fully working game, than wondering when I'll have to straighten the target back out to get it unstuck.

Also, I ended up shaving the target next to the Control Room because it was grazing my Cliffy Protector.

#2588 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

I absolutely do have the new code, it was the first thing I did to the game when I bought it. The rules I posted are basics to go off of and still pretty much tell you how to progress through the game. Sorry for trying to help.

Sorry, seeing as you have been here less than a year, and dont even have your collection listed, this just came off as dickish. As i said, I havent had much time to play. I have a 4 month old baby at home so games are few and far between. I thought 200 mil was decent considering I dont play much currently.

#2589 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

So as a ghetto fix I simply bent a paper clip around the wire form in the area where the ball was falling out. For my game, my ball was exiting the wire form and rolling over the sling plastic. I just got a paper clip and wrapped it so that it made sure the ball couldn't exit that same way. It's hardly noticeable when playing. It's not a permanent fix, but it does keep the ball from potentially damaging the plastic.
I think a better permanent solution is to soften the impact the ball makes when it hits the end of the wire form. I think that's what makes the ball "jostle" and ricochet out. So a piece of rubber or foam attached at the impact area should help this.

Thanks for the tip, I might just try something along this line. Can you post a photo of yours?
I might string up some metal wire. Sure beats welding new metal on.

#2590 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Sorry, seeing as you have been here less than a year, and dont even have your collection listed

I have been in this hobby for far longer than just a year. Our first pin was almost 20 years ago now. I decided to finally make an account not long ago to help the community here. My original post was simply stating that getting to Chaos mode would rack up a lot of points. I even tried to say that I wasn't being rude or mean because a simple block of text can't really convey the overall meaning and tone.

And some people might not realize the full extent of the rules of a game. They might think one score is decent when really you can score much higher. I for one thought ~200 million on Spiderman was pretty good but soon realized you can score an insane amount of points for how far I progressed in the game, thanks to pinsiders and their knowledge of the game.

I also haven't posted my collection because I'd just rather not. I don't think it's many peoples business to know which games I do or don't have. I like to keep most things private on a site full of strangers.

Quoted from cait001:

Can you post a photo of yours?

Sure, I can try and snag a photo some time this week. It isn't pretty, but it gets the job done. And in all honesty, I barely even notice the paper clip any more.

#2591 3 years ago

Is it possible to replace the series of soldered mechanical switches in the ball trough with one of the WMS 6 ball optos? Surely this would make it much more reliable.

Can it be hacked like this?

It surprises me somewhat that no-one has designed and made up an off the shelf board to do just this ... JP and other DE games seem to have a bunch of issues with their trough switches, often ... and it's a total mess down there, compared with a couple of opto boards.

#2592 3 years ago

Hey guys I'm in the market for a clean JP if any one is thinking of selling or know any one!!!! Thanks

#2593 3 years ago

Is Matt going to have the JP Trex at Expo for the people who are on the pre order list?

#2594 3 years ago

Is Matt going to have the JP Trex at Expo for the people who are on the pre order list?
How do I pay to get on "the list " ?

#2595 3 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

Is Matt going to have the JP Trex at Expo for the people who are on the pre order list?

Not sure of the Matt you're referring to, but if you're talking about the t-rex I make, then no.

#2596 3 years ago

I think maybe Matt at Back Alley Creations is making a Trex too?
Must have been posted on Pinside as it's not on the web site

#2597 3 years ago

So a question about Chad's code update. It really makes the game much better.

Instead of Stampede being the first mode, it is now random, but I've noticed that on a multiplayer game, everyone gets the same first mode. Is this correct or am I seeing things?

#2598 3 years ago

I actually just experienced that on friday. We both got the same mode. Interesting.

#2599 3 years ago

Yes all players will get the same first mode lit. Since the rest can be changed via pop bumpers i think its the right thing to do so all players are on an equal playing field at the beginning of the game.

-Jim

#2600 3 years ago

Thanks for all the help over the last two years and tips, mods, etc but yesterday I sold my JP.
Time to move on from the club but it was a blast while it lasted

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