I'd like to see it!

me too!

Thanks everyone who responded.

I had a hunch the switch is meant to be normally open.
I'm fairly new to DE machines and didn't know that the upper flipper doesn't need an EOS switch.

I think its a mechanical problem- either the return spring needs adjusting or maybe the sleeve needs replacing.

I'd just go ahead and just rebuild it. Do the lowers too if you haven't.

Flipper Fidelity REVIEW:

Just installed Flipper Fidelity speakers into my JP. And honestly, I don't think it was worth it. I've had a Polk external Sub connected to it for almost as long as I've had it, and that made a world of difference. Adding these FF Speakers did not.

While the back box speakers are probably better sounding and allow for a wider range of frequencies, I think it actually hurts it. The voices are now deeper, and have less treble. So it kinda sounds like there's something obstructing the sound. Like holding a towel over them. And with the external Sub, and the upgraded cabinet sub, the more bassier sounds coming from the backbox are just not needed.

And the quality of the stock sounds just aren't good enough to sound any better.

So if you don't have an external sub, get one instead of upgrading all the speakers. If you've already got an external sub, just stick with that.

Also, while the installation went smooth, the instructions could be a little better. A few points are missed. It doesn't mention that the included spacers are used for the backbox speakers. Something people can figure out, but also forget because it doesn't tell you to grab them. And how to exactly connect which wires to what for the volume control. Wasn't sure which end goes to speakers and which end goes to power, and if it doesn't matter, it should probably say so. And also what the included roll of thin tape was used for. I didn't even use that because it made no mention of it. Also says that for the sub to connect the negative, but then can either be connected to the High or Low positive. Would like to know if the results are exactly the same, or if one makes it sound different than the other.

I found a lot of mods have poor instructions or things that don't fit right...

I never had an external woofer, but after many years of the stock speakers I did find the FF to be an improvement and I can hear words and sounds and instruments I never heard before. I do find that it's important to get the back box volume right and its different for different pins. I think FF are good if you move your pins around a lot and don't have room for an external woofer under you pin (I have boxes off mods and parts)

The tape is for preventing your Playfield glass from rattling, but unless you put in a 10 or 12 inch woofer in a pin its not needed. Odd it was included.

"Sounds" like you should go back to the Polk, but the FF back box speakers should be the 2 way type, so I'm not sure why you aren't getting your treble. Are the back box speakers turned ask the way up with the supplied volume control?

Both PP and FF have good support if you email them

I am thinking about adding a sub to my JP. Although not sure yet as I've had a couple more purchases since then. Would you say it's worth it?

I have the standard Polk Sub that you see posted here. It is awesome on JP, feed T-rex pounds. I put one on my JP and it was so awesome I put subs on all my pins. I only have 3 pins and just hit Craigslist, lots of cheap good subs available.

I have the polk hooked up to mine and combined with the shaker its just such a great experience, I highly recommend it

If anyone is doing a Jurassic Park restoration, there are some cabinet decals available: http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-data-east-pinball-cabinet-decals/

It has treble. It just also has bass. Something the old ones didn't have. So I have 1 source of treble, and 3 sources of bass. So the voices just sound more muffled compared to what it used to sound like.

Here are the scoop lights mentioned above. These look orange in the picture, but it's actually a vibrant red. I know others mentioned keeping them on all the time, but I choose to only light them when the shot was ready.
IMG_1792 (resized).JPG

Sweet. I have considered doing this as well. Nicely done. Did you just tap off the light for the scoop?

In this case I just used the scoop and "feed t-rex" wires, but you could tap if you wanted to keep the original in place.

oh I see, you took the bulb trees down....sooo, does the scoop light for system power up too? Would be cool to do yellow for the cpu, park revenue, and power shed shots being lit, then have it turn green for system power up....hmmmmmm

Are both sets of lights in the scoops?

Not currently, but I may eventually add in a green light. Although I'm slightly worried what it would look like if both lights are lit at the same time. I'm trying to think...that happens, right?

green and yellow is chartreuse...no biggie!

Can you post pics of the spot you put the light strips in the scoops?

This isn't a light strip. I drilled a hole through the front of the scoop and after testing found the best bulb to be the 1 SMD Flex from Comet.

PS: What would happen if you just connected both wires to the same bulb base?

woah...drilling scoops. yikes. dont think i will be doing that.

Yeah, worst case wasn't that bad. Holes in an area where no ball touches and no one sees.

The LAH I just got has muffled sounds with what looks like OEM speakers compared to my JP that has a Pinball Pro speaker installed under the playfield. My Demolition Man (Pyramid speaker under the playfield) and JP have noticeably better sound (the sounds are "fuller" for lack of a better term) than any of my other games, including Metallica that has an amplifier installed in it...but I assume that was paired with a sub woofer before I owned it. Not sure if any of this is relevant since I don't know much about speakers, but maybe some of it is useful information. I'm thinking of upgrading my LAH sound, but not sure if the Pinball Pro would give me the same results as what is going on with JP.

Looks great, I think I may follow your lead. I'm not bashful about drilling the scoop. As you note, ball does not touch, no one can see.

It gives it a "finish" look. I like it. Think when it comes cleaning time I might just do it.

If you already have the scoop lights like lpeters82 you can just add the T.I.L.T. mods board to make them flash when you are supposed to hit the scoop.

Looks like your control room lights are flip-flopped. The top light doesn't light for the indicator to start the mode.

I believe you are correct. I think the only time the top lamps of the scoops are supposed to light is during System Boot mode.

Thanks guys. I always wondered why that scoop was the only one that was backwards. Somebody before me must have wired them that way. It's easy enough to flip them around. Swapping them won't effect the way the mod works for everyone's information. The Scoop lighting will be triggered when the solid light under the green one comes on.

Maybe I should have posted here instead of making a new topic. I favorited this thread, making me the 100th person to do so (hooray!)

Anyway, I was in the middle of a game, everything was working fine. I got tri-ball and one of the balls went into the power shed and never popped out. The machine makes a repeating noise, the same noise it makes when it pops it out, but the ball just sits on the plunger thing. Diagnostics doesn't fix it either.

FWIW, this is my first ever machine. I've had it for 2 months or so. I don't even own a soldering gun....... yet.

Anyone have any ideas?

Video of part:

What do you mean exactly the ball didn't come out? You mean it never even rolled down to the vuk?

sorry. terrible explanation.

i see the ball. it's sitting on the plunger. just chilling.

fuses appear ok.

wires appear ok.

coil on test doesn't fire.

oD6MKKV - Imgur (resized).jpg

4mPAYtZ - Imgur (resized).jpg

fixed.... im an idiot.

LTG is a genius.

fix (resized).jpg

I learned very quickly that when something doesn't work, to check the connection of the wires on the coil. I think I've had 4-5 of those happen.

I'd go look at the rest of your coils while you're under there and thinking about it. The ones with those plastic sleeves are deceiving. Give them a good gentle, yet firm tug. Better to get them now than to have to keep doing them one by one.

Is there a way to light them without drilling? Really would rather not. My scoops are kind of rigged as it is, dont really feel like pulling them.

They're not completely sealed around the upper edges on all sides are they? Isn't there a slight gap you could shine light through?

No drilling required with my Smart Scoop mod. Comes with LED strips, control boards, all cables and detailed instructions with lots of photos. Everything is completely reversible.

Not a bad idea...I do have some flex laying around I could mess with.

Got a website? Ill check it out, but kits are usually over priced.

This is not just a kit that gives you something you can easily do yourself. If you hook up a flex LED strip to the bulb that indicates the scoop should be hit, your scoop will light and stay on solid.

This mod uses that same connection but allows your flex LED strip to flash giving you a better indication that you should be aiming for that shot. Aiming for the flashing shot is pretty common in pinball.

If you're interested in purchasing send me a PM as I don't currently have a website.

Watch video below to see them in action.

Did you change your avatar? Are you the guy who made the interactive gate?

Yeah I changed my avatar. Same guy that made the interactive gate. I also have another cool mod coming soon for JP. Here's a hint, opening scene...

OK, cool. I wasnt looking to do business with some rando dude, lol. I was always like "hey! Its the guy that looks like my boy Brian" when I looked at your avatar.

Once I get some funds I will hit you up. Super cool about the raptor "cage". SHOOOT HEEEERRR

I also think its funny you havent put the cliffy on your power shed scoop either. What a pain in the ass that post is to remove, right? I need to do it one of these days or I will regret it...

I guess I should of gave a tougher hint...

Cliffy's are on all my scoops. It's just hard to see in that video. I waited until I did a complete tear down when I shopped it before putting it on.

I hope the JP club can help me with this problem - I don't know what to do. I was playing as usual, then the game froze up. So, I shut it off. When I turn it on, the shooter rod solenoid fires once, the GI lights come on, and the shaker motor starts hard then gradually runs out of steam. The DMD, if anything is on it, is a few horizontal lines at the bottom.

In reading http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm, I would guess this is a CPU problem. Looking at the diagnostic LEDs, The PIA and +5V stay on, and the Blanking LED never comes on. The guide diagnostic says: "PIA LED turns ON (and stays on), blanking LED never turns on: EPROM at location 5C and/or 5B is bad." But I have Chad's new code at 5C, so this is not likely the problem. Or is still a possibility?

The techniek site further states: "If the game will still not boot, the most common problem is a dead 6808 (or 6802) CPU at 3D. Either CPU can be used, but the 6808 is largely unavailable (hence the 6802 is used as a replacement). Also a dead 6264 (or 2064C) CMOS RAM at 5D is very common." I have a 6802 at 3D - should I replace this? I have an NVRAM at 5D that I put in last year, and there is no battery damage on the board.

Any other thoughts about how to diagnose or what to check would be greatly appreciated!

Always start with the fuses.

Another simple and easy thing to troubleshoot is reseating the chips. Take them off and put them back on. Sometimes one leg isn't making great contact and it can be as easy as that.

Thank you for the suggestions. I will look at both these tomorrow and give an update.

Ok guys, my jp just gave me a strange problem I posted and this looks like the place to ask.
I went to turn it on today, and no dmd. I check the fuses and the .5 amp F7 fuse is blown. Board with just the four prong plug in it blows no fuses. If I connect all connectors other than cn1 attached to the ps board it doesn't blow any fuse. only upon putting CN1 on it blows that .5. Ive looked over the schematic but its making me go crosseyed. The game plays fine other than no dmd.

When my DMD went out, F7 kept blowing, game played just fine same as you. I found odd voltages on the HV section of the power supply board feeding the DMD.

Poking around on the PS board, I found a cracked diode in the HV circuit. I replaced and everything was happy again. Hopefully you'll have a $0.05 repair too!

Did you attempt to (carefully) measure the output voltages at the DMD?

Thanks, I will check that out today. I noticed that there looked to be a diode in spot d12, but its no longer there and the schematic makes no mention of it. Also d7 diode appears to be incorporated in this circuit.