(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



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57 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7434 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 149.
#2201 3 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

What was your fix? Did you attempt to position the lamps up into the inserts more?

Yeah, a little repositioning. But one, can't remember which it was on the left side of playfield, I actually stapled a business card between the two inserts.

#2202 3 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Question for the masses...
I'm looking to do some LEDs in my JP that I recently purchased. I've seen a lot of talk in this thread about LEDs, but I was wondering about complete LED kits from places like Marco or Cointaker. Has anyone done a complete kit? Is it better to just buy a set order and replaces specific ones? Are people doing any color LEDs instead of condoms?
Thanks everyone!
EDIT: Also, are non-ghosting LEDs worth it for JP?

I contemplated a complete kit but instead chose to go through the arduous process of noting each individual lamp (style/color) and order that way. On the bright side the price was $80ish and I ordered from Comet. There is ghosting but as for someone who is pretty picky I don't find it bothersome at all. I used 1 SMD (5050) domeless for inserts and a 25pack of 8mm natural white frosted dome for GI. I needed a "bendie" for one jackpot, the egg, and a chaos if I remember correctly. I also went fancy and got the super bright tower flashers for the four above playfield flashers. I could get you the complete list if interested.

#2203 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

. I also went fancy and got the super bright tower flashers for the four above playfield flashers. I

I used the Comet 22 SMD flashers on the playfield flashers.. Super bright, should come with warnings for epileptic shock!
However looks great!

#2204 3 years ago

Do the pop bumper rings. They are great. Got all mine from Comet.
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#2205 3 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

Do the pop bumper rings. They are great. Got all mine from Comet.

How do you like the color LEDs? It seems that some like it, and some hate it. Thoughts? Do you have a bill of materials from the picture? Thanks!

#2206 3 years ago

I prefer the bright cap evos. Those ones with the wires are a pain in the ass to get right.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624

#2207 3 years ago

Just when I thought my machine is bullet-proof, my friend proves me otherwise. He's able to find EVERYTHING wrong with my machine. Stuff that I thought I've fixed for good, he's able to make happen.

First it was a sound issue. Told him I fixed it. Then he proved me otherwise. I did eventually figure it out. I think.

Then I told him I fixed the VUK, and that it worked 100% on the first try. He proves me wrong his first game. Then I tell him that at least the ball doesn't get stuck in the subway like it used to because I flattened it back out. Nope, his next game he got the ball stuck in the subway.

He's been traveling Europe for the past 3 months, and in that time I ironed out all the kinks. I haven't had a single issue until he shows back up. I think he's cursed.

#2208 3 years ago

Never believe that your JP is fixed, 100%, or bullet-proof. It will do its best to prove you wrong. Mine does on a regular basis.

#2209 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I prefer the bright cap evos. Those ones with the wires are a pain in the ass to get right.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624

Don't think they were out when I did mine. What do they look like not installed?

Quoted from comment23:

How do you like the color LEDs? It seems that some like it, and some hate it. Thoughts? Do you have a bill of materials from the picture? Thanks!

I like the color. I change some of the white inserts to purple. I will have to hunt down list.

#2211 3 years ago

Added the EGG!! Painted it using acrylic and then threw a few layers of clear coat on it to -hopefully- prevent flaking/chipping. Thanks for the direction on purchasing through Mezel!

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#2212 3 years ago
Quoted from Camvr2013:

Added the EGG!! Painted it using acrylic and then threw a few layers of clear coat on it to -hopefully- prevent flaking/chipping. Thanks for the direction on purchasing through Mezel!

Great job! Let is know if the clear holds up.

I'm waiting on some more voice samples. I think that i will redo a lot of the beep data east sounds they used through many machines...it's just a matter of what to use to replace beeps they are what they are.

#2213 3 years ago

Nice. I was looking on my phone so I did not see other photos. Thanks.

#2214 3 years ago

Just joined the club yesterday. a couple rubbers need to be replaced and the T-Rex has a hard time moving about, really need to fully take him apart and clean it all up (any guides on how to clean and do preventative maintenance on this guy)? the back area has several lights out so needing to replace several lights back there.

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#2215 3 years ago

Your lower left flipper needs to be aligned.

#2216 3 years ago
Quoted from C65Mustang:

Just joined the club yesterday. a couple rubbers need to be replaced and the T-Rex has a hard time moving about, really need to fully take him apart and clean it all up (any guides on how to clean and do preventative maintenance on this guy)? the back area has several lights out so needing to replace several lights back there.

How's the hum? Got mine a month or so ago. I've got the good ol' Data East hum in mine.

#2217 3 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

How's the hum? Got mine a month or so ago. I've got the good ol' Data East hum in mine.

We all do! LOL

#2218 3 years ago

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#2219 3 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

How's the hum? Got mine a month or so ago. I've got the good ol' Data East hum in mine.

I was looking around online and for funsies I replaced all the caps on the sound board to no avail. I noticed the hum "rolls" with the controlled lamps too. I remember my Time Warp did the same thing and I found a youtube video where a guy instructed on removing a specific ground wire on the sound board and the hum was cut by what I'd say 90%. I'm wondering if it's a ground loop issue. The good news is that even when I'm alone playing the action and sounds of the game quickly drown out the hum.

#2220 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

I was looking around online and for funsies I replaced all the caps on the sound board to no avail. I noticed the hum "rolls" with the controlled lamps too. I remember my Time Warp did the same thing and I found a youtube video where a guy instructed on removing a specific ground wire on the sound board and the hum was cut by what I'd say 90%. I'm wondering if it's a ground loop issue. The good news is that even when I'm alone playing the action and sounds of the game quickly drown out the hum.

The thing that I have researched is that it's a broad issue. Some people have replaced caps and it's made the hum better, but there's two things you can do IMO:

1. "Float" your sound board. Head out to Lowes/Home Depot and buy some vinyl 8-32 screws + washers. Use the washers between the sound board and the backbox bracket. In this scenario, you are basically removing ground from your board. When I did this, my hum dropped by at least 50%.

2. Use a switch power supply to power your sound board. This is the one option that seems to work 100% of the time. For $20-$30 you can use a PC power supply. Use the +12 / -12 / GND / +5 and power the sound board.

There's a thread here to more information: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-speaker-noise-ideas-for-a-cure

#2221 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

I'm wondering if it's a ground loop issue.

From the reading I've done on this issue, I suspect this is exactly the issue I was seeing. Floating the sound board from the backplane (ground) had a huge effect on my machine. Hum was reduced by 80%, almost not even noticed any more.

Note; On my machine - there is actually no ground plane on the backside of the sound board, ground is provided by the screw heads themselves against the groundplane on the top side of the board. I placed nylon washers under the screw heads and got the 80% reduction.

My next tact was going to use an external power supply - however, I no longer see the need to tinker any more.

#2222 3 years ago

Hoping someone has had this problem and can point me in the right direction. Sometimes after a multiball (maybe 1/3 times) the game does not register that all balls have drained. No matter how long I wait, the game does not "search" for a missing ball either. I opened the front door when it was doing this, and I noticed that of the six rolling switches in the trough, only 5 had balls on them. The sixth ball ends up in the space by the ejector coil so that it's ready to be launched into the shooter lane. If I hold down the sixth switch in the trough, the game ends properly, but still starts the next game saying "one ball missing." Chad's code is on the game.
Thanks for any help!

#2223 3 years ago
Quoted from sulakd:

Hoping someone has had this problem and can point me in the right direction. Sometimes after a multiball (maybe 1/3 times) the game does not register that all balls have drained. No matter how long I wait, the game does not "search" for a missing ball either. I opened the front door when it was doing this, and I noticed that of the six rolling switches in the trough, only 5 had balls on them. The sixth ball ends up in the space by the ejector coil so that it's ready to be launched into the shooter lane. If I hold down the sixth switch in the trough, the game ends properly, but still starts the next game saying "one ball missing." Chad's code is on the game.
Thanks for any help!

check and adjust the switch that registers when the ball is in the trough eject. that is a common problem. you can even sometimes slap the right side of the cab and make it register the switch at the one on location near me that is doing that.

#2224 3 years ago

Mine has done it occasionally as well. More than likely it's what infinite and sula posted. Your trough switch

#2225 3 years ago
Quoted from sulakd:

Hoping someone has had this problem and can point me in the right direction. Sometimes after a multiball (maybe 1/3 times) the game does not register that all balls have drained. No matter how long I wait, the game does not "search" for a missing ball either. I opened the front door when it was doing this, and I noticed that of the six rolling switches in the trough, only 5 had balls on them. The sixth ball ends up in the space by the ejector coil so that it's ready to be launched into the shooter lane. If I hold down the sixth switch in the trough, the game ends properly, but still starts the next game saying "one ball missing." Chad's code is on the game.
Thanks for any help!

#2227 3 years ago

Thanks everybody! Will check that switch and order a new one if needed.

#2228 3 years ago

Was able to adjust the switch last night, didn't need a new one. What a difference! There've always been a lot of delays in the game from what I thought was just a coding issue. Like in multiball, it always took a long time for each extra ball to come into play. It's all working fast and furious now. Thanks again for the help!

#2229 3 years ago

Glad this video popped back up because I think I need to check mine. After the third ball drained, I had to give the machine a little shimmy to get it to register. I had seen this issue posted before, so I've always had it in the back of my mind if mine ever started doing the same. Now I don't need to go hunt it back down.

#2230 3 years ago

Just joined the club a couple weeks ago and I've been doing some generalcleaning and replacing rubbers. The 6.0 update really excites me, what's the easiest way to upgrade? Thanks in advance for the help!

-1
#2231 3 years ago

Burn 2 new roms and swap them over

#2232 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Burn 2 new roms and swap them over

...or contact John Wart and simply order the pair:

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/de.html

#2233 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Burn 2 new roms and swap them over

Cool, let me pull an eprom programmer/burner out of my pocket and do that.

#2234 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

...or contact John Wart and simply order the pair:
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/de.html

Thanks

#2235 3 years ago

Having sounds issues with my JP. Keeps playing the wrong sounds, dino roars repeatedly, etc. No crackling or static. I do believe it's the ribbon cable going from the sound board to cn21 on the cpu board. I've reseated it, which fixes the issue, but the problem does return.

Does anyone know what type of connectors and ribbon cable I need to replace the current one with? P/N's and vendors would be a big help.

Thanks!

#2236 3 years ago
Quoted from dontfeed:

Having sounds issues with my JP. Keeps playing the wrong sounds, dino roars repeatedly, etc. No crackling or static. I do believe it's the ribbon cable going from the sound board to cn21 on the cpu board. I've reseated it, which fixes the issue, but the problem does return.
Does anyone know what type of connectors and ribbon cable I need to replace the current one with? P/N's and vendors would be a big help.
Thanks!

Push in and make sure all connectors on the CPU board and all other boards for that matter are as secure as can be. I just had this problem, and after months of troubleshooting, it was one connector that I was able to push in by like 1mm. It happened to be the power connector to the speakers from the CPU board. And don't just blow it off like I did just assuming that all connectors were properly secure. Could have solved my issue months ago.

To test to see if it's a power issue, lower the volume down, and slowly bring it up until its too loud. If it cuts out at the higher volumes, you know it's a similar power issue like I had. And either narrows it down, or at least eliminates it.

#2237 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Push in and make sure all connectors on the CPU board and all other boards for that matter are as secure as can be. I just had this problem, and after months of troubleshooting, it was one connector that I was able to push in by like 1mm. It happened to be the power connector to the speakers from the CPU board. And don't just blow it off like I did just assuming that all connectors were properly secure. Could have solved my issue months ago.
To test to see if it's a power issue, lower the volume down, and slowly bring it up until its too loud. If it cuts out at the higher volumes, you know it's a similar power issue like I had. And either narrows it down, or at least eliminates it.

Thanks Woody. I've done that and I'll probably do it again next time I open up the head, but everything keeps pointing to that damn ribbon cable.
If I replace that cable at least I know that I eliminated that as the problem. I just ordered the new roms and I'd like to get this fixed.

#2238 3 years ago
Quoted from dontfeed:

Thanks Woody. I've done that and I'll probably do it again next time I open up the head, but everything keeps pointing to that damn ribbon cable.
If I replace that cable at least I know that I eliminated that as the problem. I just ordered the new roms and I'd like to get this fixed.

Don't forget to try the volume thing too. See it if fixes itself at a much lower volume. You issue sounds VERY similar to mine. I replaced the ribbon cable on mine too. Here's a video of what mine was doing when I played with the volume.

#2239 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Don't forget to try the volume thing too. See it if fixes itself at a much lower volume. You issue sounds VERY similar to mine. I replaced the ribbon cable on mine too. Here's a video of what mine was doing when I played with the volume.
» YouTube video

OK, so you know what parts I need and where to get them. The suspense is killing me!!!

#2240 3 years ago
Quoted from dontfeed:

OK, so you know what parts I need and where to get them. The suspense is killing me!!!

No parts were needed for mine. Just a gentle push.

#2241 3 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

No parts were needed for mine. Just a gentle push.

So you didn't replace the ribbon cable even though you said you did? Or did you mean you removed and then replaced the same cable...am I missing some context? I'm confused...

#2242 3 years ago
Quoted from dontfeed:

So you didn't replace the ribbon cable even though you said you did? Or did you mean you removed and then replaced the same cable...am I missing some context? I'm confused...

Oh. I did replace the cable, but wasn't necessary for my issue. It wasn't the problem. I think I found mine on Amazon though.

#2243 3 years ago

I don't see ribbon cables for JP for sale on BAA or Marco... But ribbon cables are universal for computer connections. Count your wires/contacts and you can go to someplace like Mouser and find a matching ribbon cable.

-Jim

#2244 3 years ago

I just joined the club. I got it home and now the dmd won't come on. I don't know if I'm going to keep it or not. You might see in the market soon. Ed

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#2245 3 years ago
Quoted from Fast-Ed:

it home and now the dmd won't come on. I don't know if I'm going to keep it or not. You might see in the market soon. Ed

That's a really nice looking playfield. I don't see any insert wear or touchups in the pics.

#2246 3 years ago

Wow you just got it home now you're thinking of selling it? Back up for a sec, the problem can easily be fixed. Display doesn't work now? Check all connectors going between display and power supply/CPU board. Something must have rattled loose.

#2247 3 years ago
Quoted from Fast-Ed:

the dmd won't come on.

My DMD went out. After a little bit of sleuthing, I found a broken diode (cracked) in the HV section of the PS board. $0.05 repair.

Even if you don't keep it, a little effort might bring a nice return.

Good luck!

#2248 3 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Wow you just got it home now you're thinking of selling it? Back up for a sec

his name is fast ed, he only knows one speed! gogogo!

#2249 3 years ago

Yaeh guys I'm interested in Ed's game, lets not go talking him into keeping it I'd like to put it on location so lets go opposite direction. Ed broken dmd sell that thing before it catches fire or the sickness of broken pinball spreads to the rest of your games, broken parts are contagious I hear

-1
#2250 3 years ago

The only wear is just a tad on one of the scoops. Just on the wood part, it hasn't made it to the painted part yet. Playfield is great no insert wear or anything. One flipper is a little sluggish. Cabinet is really good only one bad spot on one side of the head as the pic shows. Not one I'm probably going to keep, so the first 1,900.00 gets it. If it doesn't sell I'll look into the problem later and fix it and ask more for it.

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