Yes, exactly. LED needs to be brighter. I kept the yellow saucer, though did contemplate swapping out for clear. The Optix Maximus LED from Comet is so crazy bright, the yellow saucer has zero impact on the result.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/opmax.htm

Agree on the sunset theme atop the backbox. While the color changing effect is nice, it does seem to spend a lot of time in the Blue & Green color bands. If we could tune for just a Yellow to Red transition, I'd jump on that. I think I'll switch back to all Red for the time being - no Yellow #44 LEDs at the moment. I did also try Red LEDs at the outer 2 positions and color changer in the center - was not bad - and did seem to accent the new, brighter insert colors (the playfield blues really pop now).

I switched out the yellow saucer on mine for the red from Marco and used a red 2 SMD flex from Comet: 2 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS 5050 SUPER FLEX NON-GHOSTING

It is a really bright and intense red, and looks very cool when the pinball is sitting in the lit saucer when it activates tri-ball.

So... I managed to find a NOS topper from a pinsider "in mail". So I canceled my topper idea. I was going to put a 14x15 T-Rex head hooked up to a worm motor that I have with linkage that would make T-Rex rotate left/right. Then have tropical grass around it, and flashers lights between the grass as the T-Rex moves based on interactions. I may still do this for the wall. The head that I found sells for $100 on Ebay and amazon. But, some how I found a seller on amazon selling the head for $39. You cant search and find this item so I have no idea how I found it within the mess of randomly priced T-Rex heads... this is the cheapest one. However, it comes a bit pale so I plan on painting his gums, tounge and skin a bit to make him more "Authentic".

That said, either with a motor to rotate the head, or hung from the wall "has a hanger built in" and then construct a 3D edge so it looks like he is ripping out of the wall. It's total game room material.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GGYH12Y
t1.jpg

That head looks fantastic in the sales photo but the video does show how pale the insides of the mouth are painted.

The amazon photos show so much more detailed color work on the teeth. I would have actually complained that it didnt look like the advertised photos.

Which is why it was $50 less than the others maybe?. I plan on painting it. I agree, it is rather light skinned in comparison to the product photo. More so his tongue and gums. But It is the cheapest I could find all over the net. I searched for a long time.

Anyone got high quality scans of the playfields plastics? I have a few that are missing/broken and want to try and remake those for myself.

Thanks

Hi jjoravec,

If you come across high quality scans of JP playfield plastics please share them and Pinbits will use them to create plastic protector sets for this title.

Thanks.

Gord

.....and PM me if your successful as I will guy extras!

Updated

I just realized today that the raptor makes a sound everytime you press the flipper (I believe it's a raptor - some dino sound plays each time). It's starting to get on my nerves. Anyway to turn that off?

Your game should not do that. Is your game scoring points every time you flip? I am guessing you have a switch being incorrectly activated every time you flip. Check for a switch that need to be adjusted.

What version of the code are you running?

5.01. You know what? You're right - it is scoring everytime!! haha. Didn't even realize that. Based on this do you know what switch might be the best to start with...?

Go into switch test mode and hit the flippers and see what switch gets triggered.

Oh, and get v.6.00! www.pinballcode.com

"Spitter #3" top is the culprit.....after pressing the left flipper it says spitter #3 top after it says left flipper. Same with right (spitter #3 top). Any idea where that is? Maybe the kickout? How would I fix that?

Says green yellow white orange #27 below spitter #3...

EDIT - so I found the switch - it's the top red drop target of the three. No idea though how to fix it....

You need to adjust that switch. It needs to be spread apart slightly. Right now it is basically almost closed and when your machine vibrates from the flippers it is being activated. You should see the switch there behind the red target.

that fixed it - thanks!

It did the samethingfor me...damn raptors! Iw as going crazy!!

Some people will do anything to rack up the points.

I just "fixed" something on another machine that was wrong, but allowed me to get much higher scores. I'd be lying if I said it wasn't just a bit tempted to put it back now that I see my average scores drop. But will resist the temptation.

When updating to the latest code, is it necessary to install the display rom AND the CPU rom or is installing the CPU 6.0 rom sufficent and you can keep the display rom as is?

Updated display ROM is required.

thanks Chad - just curious (new to updating roms) - why is that? Seems like the CPU is controlling everything and telling the DMD what to display. Are there new DMD images that the older display roms can't display and if so, do you have an example? again - just curious as new to this whole thing.

New code is awesome btw.

The text is changed on a bunch of things like the Mr DNA awards. Also the scoring along the bottom of Raptor Rampage animation was tweaked. Minor stuff but it adds up. The CPU tells the video rom what to display but all the video data is stored in the video rom.

That's my new thing I learned today and its only 8AM here

I find it hard to believe no one out there has plastics that they can scan. Pretty please

Perfect timing:

I am about to strip down my JP playfield to give it a good clean & get to a couple hard to reach GI lamps that need replacement. I have a flatbed scanner.

Questions:

1. Is what you are looking for as simple as taking a scanned image of each plastic piece?
2. Are scanned results going to be perfectly scaled by default? Or,
3. Any need for a size reference (i.e., ruler) in the image - In both x & y direction?
4. What file format is preferred?
5. One file per plastic, or ok to combine smaller pieces in one image?

Let me know; I'll see what I can get done. Maybe a couple samples to start?

Thoughts?

Sweet Thanks markp,

Questions:

1. Yes a scanned image of each plastic piece for the playfield
2. Scan at the best resolution you can
4. jpg, bmp, whichever, I will convert them to vector format
5. One file per plastic is good

First ones to try would be the blue slingshot pieces, I am missing those.

Made a quick scan of the left & right slings, @600dpi, with a scale in the image for reference. Saved as a JPEG.

Observations (upon printing):

1. The size of the printed image does not match the original plastics (image slightly smaller than original)

2. The colors appear to be shifted from the original (more saturation, shifted to red slightly)

I acknowledge this may be 100% related to my color laser printer and not the scanned image itself.

Let me know what you think, or offer any suggestions?

guys - suggestions on how to keep an absolutely ripped ramp shot from falling off the wireframe? Usually the ball is fine coming down but when it goes really really fast it often (not always) falls off the wireframe portion of the ramp. Suggestions on how to have it work perfectly?

Did you see my advice in Post #1205:

I had the same problem with mine and it was two issues:

1) Incorrect flipper coils. Mine were too strong. I changed them to the coils recommended in the manual.

2) My transformer was incorrectly jumpered and was sending too much voltage to the coils.

Between these two issues my flippers were way too strong and balls would fly off the crossover.

I've owned two different JPs. With the game set at 6.5 degrees, the correct coils and voltage, I've never had a ball fly off the wireform. Check the above and check the how the diverter is set so that you aren't getting a bounce there when it transitions to the wireform.

OK - i checked and it's the diverter. Moved so it was pointing more towards the other ramp and it worked. thanks

Hi Mark,

Thanks for these. Would you scan some more of the plastics and please include the ruler like you did for the sling plastics?

Pam from Pinbits said that they would make plastic protector sets for JP, but they need a good scan with a ruler in the scan for each plastic piece that needs a protector so that they can properly calibrate the size and hole locations for the plastic protector pieces. Below is her comment to me.

=============================================================
Hi Gordon,

I don’t think it (DPI chosen for scanning) matters (we are not using the images, just the shape and position of holes/slots- lamps etc.).
What is important is to scan a tape measure or thin ruler with the scan so I can calibrate the image size.

Thanks!

Pam
=============================================================

I will send the scan images to Pinbits when we have them. Other than the two sling plastics if you could scan any plastic with a ruler in the scan which would be prone to breakage (the large Raptor Pit plastic comes to mind and there are a few others as well) it will help us help Pinbits to get plastic protector sets created for JP which will be nice as there are no reproduction plastic sets available for JP at the present time.

Any help that you are able to provide will be greatly appreciated.

Gord

I've made scans of the following 17 plastics, @600dpi w/transparent ruler included, in JPG format:

1. Sling_Right
2. Sling_Left
3. Outlane_Right
4. Outlane_Left
5. Shooter_Cover
6. Shooter_Exit
7. Rail_Right_Top
8. Rail_Right_1
9. Rail_Right_2
10. Rail_Right_3
11. Rail_Left_Top
12. Rail_Left_1
13. Rail_Left_2
14. Orbit_Right
15. Orbit_Left
16. Pop_Bumper
17. Shoot_T-Rex

The only plastics excluded are the large piece over the Raptor & Egg lanes, and the T-Tex Collar (riveted). I did not want to do any disassembly on the T-Rex mechanism. Plus, the large piece would not fit on my scanner.

PM me if you'd like a link to these files (~2MB apiece). I should note that some of these plastics have become deformed over the years (bent, curved, cracks near screw holes, etc.), so they may not be a perfect match with new pieces. I did not make any attempts at color correction on these files - they came straight off the scanner, as-is.

Hope these are useful,

Mark

PM sent.

Gord

I posted this over in the Improved T-Rex thread, but thought I would post it in the JP Club thread in case anyone with the issue doesn't read that thread:

When I added the improved T-Rex body my T-Rex would not stay vertical. My mechanism had some slack in it and as best as I can tell, the added weight of the new body was enough to make the T-Rex lean forward a little. I tried a new up/down motor to try and get rid of the slack as its gears seemed a little sloppy. This did not fix the slack issue. Next, I shortened the link arm from the motor cam to the bottom of the T-Rex frame. I did this by making the angles more acute where the link arm has a short horizontal offset bend. By bending the horizontal piece to be more of a "Z" shape I was able to take about 1/8" out of the link arm length and now my T-Rex is vertical with no slack (you cannot push the T-Rex forward or backward a little, like before) when the motor is all the way up. This seemed to help the ball swallowing problem a little. That is, about 50% of the time the T-Rex would swallow the ball when it chomped (but not immediately upon the T-Rex becoming vertical).

My T-Rex's jaw was open enough when the T-Rex was vertical that the ball could fall out the mouth. I added a felt pad to the pad under the chomping solenoid as suggested by Winteriscoming. This kept the ball from falling out, but originally I had such a thick felt pad (I am using one of those stick on pads that Home Depot sells for sticking on chair legs for sliders) that the jaw was completely shut when the T-Rex was vertical (i.e., the jaw did not move when he chomped). Still, the ball did not roll down his throat and now without the chomping, there was nothing to cause the ball to roll back into the throat. I used an Xacto knife to make the felt pad thinner (down to about 1/8") so the T-Rex chomps when vertical, but still not swallowing the ball 100%.

I noticed that there was some slack in the chomping mechanism. That is, I could push the chomping solenoid in by hand and the jaw could still open and close a little. When I originally installed the improved T-Rex I didn't want to drill out the rivet in the jaw, so I ordered a new one from Marco. The jaw link arm from the chomping solenoid to the jaw was difficult to get into the hole on the jaw, so I drilled out the hole on the jaw a little. It turns out that this made the hole large enough that the link arm could move up and down some without engaging the jaw. I ordered another jaw from Marco and while I was at it I ordered a new jaw link arm. It turns out that my link arm was slightly shorter than the new one from Marco (I think Winteriscoming mentioned that there were a number of the link arms that had issues and you should check them, but mine appeared okay when I looked at it with nothing to compare it to). The combination of the longer link arm and the jaw with the original/smaller hole tightened up the slack in the chomping movement.

With all of the above, my T-Rex is now working 100% with the improved T-Rex. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to post my experience in case it can help someone else with T-Rex problems.

Ross

PM Sent

Thanks

Thanks Mark for taking the time to make and accurately label these scans and include a ruler in the scans. I really appreciate it. The scans look really good. The main plastic that is not scanned is the large plastic over the Raptor pit and to be honest I have never really heard of that one breaking from a ball strike anyway so we should be good to go now.

I have sent the scans that you have provided to Pam at Pinbits along with playfield photos that I have and hopefully we can get plastic protector sets made for JP now. When Pinbits creates the plastic protector sets and they are available for purchase I will post on Pinside regarding their availability.

If you don't mind, please leave the JP plastic scans up on your Google Drive for now as I also provided that URL to Pam in the event that she has an issue with the ZIP attachments that I sent to her.

Gord

Guys - what are the best ways to get the ball to trex? I find shooting to the extra ball and then waiting for it to come back down and hitting with top flipper. Any others?

As for the scans, hopefully those can be used to reproduce plastics too - 3dprinter ; )

That's the best way. At least until I'm in tri-ball and need to hit it to light supers, then it's just not possible anymore.

Also you can sometimes bank it in off the egg.

3d printers would be no good for playfield plastics, really. Not clear, not really smooth enough.

The only other reliable way is to shoot the orbit through the bumpers and then use the upper flipper. This is a lot tougher because the ball is travelling probably three times faster past that upper flipper than when it drops from the Boat Dock saucer.

Would it be possible to get one of those done? It looks like mine has melted/gone perfectly white! I believe this is either from a faulty globe or coil, most likely a coil.

Your doing gods work Mark.

Us fellow JP owners thank you for the time you've taken to do these!

Gordon, I had scanned all of my JP plastics at one point with the dino collar and the large raptor piece. I could maybe dig up those scans and email if you pm your email address.

Could any of this lead to additional plastics being made (not plastic protectors)? If I didn't already have a full time job, I would invest to repro the plastics just for a year and watch the money pour in as everyone has a cracked plastic!

Hi Jim,

PM sent with email. That would be great.

Gord

Sent your way.

For the record, a dino collar protector may not be all that user friendly. Brackets would have to have rivets drilled out and reinstalled. I personally made a similar shaped "protector" plastic for mine since the original was snapped in 2 and needed it for the support.

Raptor pit isn't all that friendly either, but no rivets there. I have a protector I made installed on it as well, so it can be done.

Edit: I was trying to see if any pics I've posted show my protectors on these 2 plastics well. This post has a couple. I installed mine underneath the originals. I'm not sure how the commercial ones are intended to go. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress/page/8#post-2041939

Hi Jim,

I just reviewed the scans and unfortunately I don't think that Pinbits will be able to use the Raptor Pit plastic scan or the Dino Collar plastic scan. The issue is that Pinbits said that they need to have a small ruler in the scan image for each plastic scan so that they are able to properly calibrate the image size when creating the plastic protectors.

Thanks anyway as I appreciate the effort.

Gord

Sorry to hear. No trouble since I already had the scans from when I was repairing the game a while ago. No way I'm going to uninstall and rescan at this point though.

No problem, I completely understand. Pinbits should have enough of the relevent JP plastic scans to create a JP plastic protector set.

Thanks again.

Gord

EDIT - the recommended coil is 090-5020-30

Damn Anyone else got a scan of this one? Mines burnt

Could you use a burnt one and use winters to fix my burnt scan?