Does it move around in self diagnostics when the game is turned on?

Does the game search for balls? If the game thinks there's a ball missing, it may think it's on the playfield, which may prevent it from eating the ball, because it doesn't want the second ball to smash the dino head.

Was that suggested before? Seems like I read something like that. Other than that, I have no ideas.

It moves around in diagnostics when the game is turned on and it is not doing a ball search

Maybe do another factory reset of all the settings and memory? If it started with the new software, maybe something messed up. Also try swapping back in the old software. Time to narrow down, and eliminate options.

Yeah, that's weird. Dino functionality was not something we touched.

Hmm, but is it going to both sides and then does it bend down and chomp in the center? It should be doing all of that during the self diagnostics.

The other thing that can impact the t-rex is the saucer switch. Is it registering reliably when a ball is in it?

I agree that you might try factory defaults in case some garbage ended up in memory during the rom swap. Not sure if that can happen, but factory reset would clear it up if so.

I assume you mean skill shot? I would consider the video mode to be the random dino crossing the screen for (now) 10M.

I consider video modes when the ball is held somewhere and you play something on the screen independently of that, so yeah - skill shot counts for me, dino crossing doesn't. I count dino crossing as a hurry up mode.

This is where it would have been nice for the timer to not start until bumpers stop.

It moves side to side and comes down and all the switches work. I reset the factory defaults. Does any one have an idea?

Everything else works fine. Other multiball events don't have any issues.

Everything else works. All multi balls. Had no issues until i upgraded.

That would be a great idea. However I don't know if it would be possible with the kind of edits Chad is able to make. Increasing an existing timer value is simple. It is a more complex story to have code that only starts the ball save timer once any switch other than the bumpers is hit after a ball is launched — which is the only way I can think of to implement the idea. But then you may end up creating a loophole where you can simply let a ball drain from the bumpers over and over scoring points with an infinite ball save.

I credit JP for teaching me slide saves

You may need to revert back to your previous version of CPU and Display ROMS to see if the problem goes away. I upgraded from CPU ROM version 5.13 and Display ROM version 5.10 to the 6.00 versions of both and my T-REX functions correctly as it did prior to the ROM upgrade and eats the balls when appropriate.

Gord

if anyone wants to sell me the plastic that is to the left of the shooter right under the flying bird, send me a PM. Willing to pay $$! haha thanks!

Have a JP machine that is having some display troubles. Recently got a new x-pin power supply for it, and the voltages going to the DMD match up with specs. DMD issues existed prior to power supply replacement, just finally fixed/modded everything else and finally getting around to fix/troubleshoot it. Game itself plays fine, but has DMD issues.

Issues Noticed: hopefully one of these will be a giveaway where the problem lies.
1. Shows the "RUN AWAY" screen often. - not sure when this should normally, but didn't used to show that much.
2. Will show the "SHOOT EGG X TIMES FOR X MILLION" out of alignment (words overlapping) sometimes.
3. Will randomly show #1 with random score during gameplay.
4. High Score will blink/flash entire screen when entering high score. Will blink regardless of using flippers/start to move cursor.
5. In Adjustments/Audit mode, DMD will not update an option sometimes. Sound will play, and you can edit it, but display only shows last option. If you increment the option again, it will update to the new number, effectively skipping that option. You can use the reverse function to go back or go all the way around and it will show up. Not consistent for which options don't get display updates.
6. DMD sometimes sticks on initial raptor moving. Raptor still moves as normal, but appears frozen on the screen. Easy to confirm with Ball 1 being easy to time. Raptor gets stuck far away from target, shoot when he should be there, still scores skill shot.

Recently Replaced/Checked.
1. New power supply installed.
2. New ribbon cables. Old ones were bent all to hell. No change for issues.
3. Voltages to DMD are accurate.
4. Using 5.13/5.10 CPU/Display. Have the previous version as well. Same issues with both chips.

Any help you guys can give to help narrow down the problem area would be appreciated.

Unrelated: Have the gate mod/loop combo/ceramic ball mod as well. Very cool looking. I also have the die cast jeep in the middle above the egg. http://www.jurassicworld.org/?id=275

@goatdan: I would like the Mr. DNA more if it would gave me only one try to select a award otherwise the game select the lowest award which should always be the baddest choice. With this in mind a randomly 20M 10M 5M screen would make sense.

BUT....i didn't played the new code jet...^^

The only problem with that is that the first one is up so quickly that it would be past it immediately, and also the way the game's code is set up, it has no idea what is good versus bad. By doing it this way, you at least get good combinations.

I especially like the game in tournament mode now, as Mr. DNAs choices are displayed in a certain order then, and we shuffled them around to make them all very similar in potential value depending on the shots you make. Really makes the game deep, in my opinion. You are forced to start with Stampede then, although I am probably the one person who really liked that, and it makes a lot of sense for tournament mode.

Switches for Bunker, Control Room & Power Shed are not detecting the ball when it goes into their respective pits at all at the moment. It started with Control Room failing a couple of times, but then spread to all 3. Would seem like a bit of a coincidence if all 3 failed at the same time ... before I replace the switches (which need replacing anyway), any idea what might be the underlying issue? (P.S. Nothing to do with new code - it happened before that).

The Bunker and Control Room are on Column 5, but the Power Shed is Column 8. So not a column/diode issue. Perhaps the connector is flaky. Do the usual unplug and reseat the switch connectors on the driver board and see if that sorts it.

Thanks. Getting new XPin Power Supply and Power Driver boards tomorrow or on Saturday so will be doing so anyway. I replaced a malfunctioning Rottendog DMD Controller in my Popeye with an XPin board a couple of days ago. So impressed with their boards ... will now be replacing all original / other replacement boards that I can on any machine I get with XPin ... PCB, layout and components are absolutely top notch. Wish I could replace all the boards .. I'd wager reliability would be a lot better.

New roms arrived today and I love the changes great job Chad. Highly recommended to any that has the pin.

crosspost -> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-for-jp-plastic-scans-to-have-plastic-protectors-created

"Pinbits has said that they are willing to create a set of plastic protectors for 'Jurassic Park', however Pam has requested a set of plastic scans and pictures from the game. I can provide Pam with pictures from the game, however, I cannot provide her with plastic scans. Does anyone know where I may be able to get a set of plastic scans for JP?"

will pinbits attempt to create a plastic set as well to replace broken ones or is it just to protect existing ones? Seems like big market for plastic replacement so hopefully the former.

Pinbits has expressed a willingness to create plastic protectors for JP, provided that someone can provide them with a good set of plastic scans. Pinbits is not creating a replacement plastic set for JP.

However, it appears that a replacement plastic set for JP may be on the radar screen for CPR as per the following posting by Stu of CPR.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-pfs-back-glass-and-plastics-would-you-like-to-see-cpr-do/page/7#post-2729885

Gord

Cleaning up a JP for a guy and am in need of a picture of the under chute, specifically where the chute attaches to the underside of the dinosaur! This game had just a screw through the ramp and into the motor. I would assume there would be a spacer or something that would make it a little more sturdy!! Appreciate a picture please!!

I said PLEASE!!!

I was waiting for PRETTY PLEASE, but I guess PLEASE will have to do. Here you go. Hopefully these photos will help you out.

Gord

DSCN3444.JPG
DSCN3577.JPG
DSCN3581.JPG

if you guys can wait a little over a month, I can probably scan my JP plastics that are in storage

I will wait as long as it takes. Thanks.

Gord

THANKS Gord!!!

If anyone is interested I have a cabinet decal set from Phoenix Arcades Limited Run, aka the good ones. They are on the market https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/25629

Hi Vince,

Post #1178 now contains an additional photo which contains the measurements that you requested.

Gord

Thanks!!

EPROM Label:

I was poking around my JP this weekend to replace the PS board and address audio hum issues. When I removed the DMD front panel assy, I noticed a paper label fluttering about. Appears to have fallen off the dispay eprom - the window is currently exposed.

Is it mandatory to cover this window, or OK to leave as is? Something better than black electrical tape (sticky). Maybe an HVAC type foil tape?

Thanks

I wouldn't think they're required to be covered, but since they're UV erasable, it's probably best practice. I've never seen anything but cheap white labels covering them, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Someone more knowledgeable will probably be able to chime in, though.

Thank w.i.c.

Thinking a paper label is better than FOIL material - imagine the implications if that fell off and landed on some circuitry.

Hey guys... couple of questions:

1) how hard are new sling plastics to find?
2) Assuming good condition (and on the east coast)...is this game reasonably selling in the $2100-$2300 range? Or is it still in that $1900 range?

Thx

The alternate orange slingshot plastics are reasonably easy to find:

http://provider1.cart.net.au/epages/mrpinballtrial.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mrpinballtrial/Products/Plast-JP

Not sure if these are orange or blue:

http://www.recroom-amusements.com/slingshot.htm

That was 5 mins of Googling. Might have better luck with a deeper search

Are the alternative orange ones officially made from DE? were they made afterwards because of demand? and if so, why not make them blue too? Costs less to reuse the same print, than editing it

They're alts that shipped with the game.

Mine came with the blue installed. I picked up a mint orange set, still in the plastic wrap that included the keychain plastic, at the Expo for $15. He had several more sets. If I didn't pay cash, picked up a business card, or remembered who he was, I'd send you the info.

I have an extra set of orange plastics.....

I bought a rubber ring kit for JP from Pinball Wizard (White with Red flipper sleeves).

http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=643

The kit was not a great match for my JP machine.

1. Extra rubbers with no home in the machine
2. Many missing rubbers, and sleeves
3. Poor fit on a couple rings
4. Rubber post sleeves too short by 3/16

I only discovered the mismatches only AFTER I had a good amount of playfield plastics & ramps removed. Ugh!

I used what I could, and returned the worn/dirty/crappy black rubbers to their original locations.

I had thought to get just the pieces I needed, but thought the kit would save me some time. Was only $13, so no biggie, just a pain in the butt to have to re-visit this task again sooner than later. I was able to give the playfield a good rub-down with Novus 2, then 1 - getting into the areas I can't normally easily reach. Also cleaned the subway ramps (really dirty). So, some value doing this tonite.

I hate when that happens! I've had it happen most times I've ordered a rubber kit. It sucked for my first few games but now I've got a decent stock of spares that it isn't too bad.

It still saves time as opposed to manually ordering everything based on the manual (which is often wrong and why the kits are wrong in the first place).

Thankfully JP is pretty quick and easy to get apart

I highly recommend all black rubbers on JP.

JP is my ONLY game that is all black rubbers like factory, except flipper bats. White just looks so... not right on this one.

I have Titans on mine orange rings with the orange slings, I could never go back to black.
Not a great pic as they look red and not the vibrant orange they actually are, but you get the idea.

396434.jpg

Agreed! I love the colors available from Titan. I have orange and light blue in my JP.

How does one force the ball to stay on the wire crossover ramp? About 50% of the time, mine falls off. The culprit seems to be that there is too much space between the diverter and the plastic part of the ramp that cuts over to the wire form. At first I thought it was too much speed from the ball hitting the diverter, making it an un-even transfer. But I stiffened up the spring considerably to stop any unwanted movement from the diverter when hit, and still does it.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Makes me wonder why there wasn't some sort of edge catch on the wireform to stop that from happening.