Just installed mine. Love it so far! Really digging the advertisement for Last Action Hero.

Need tech help. Left flipper sticking on the red rubber tip that activates end of sttoke leaf switch. The tip is worn down and metal edge gets stuck when flipper in up position.

Are these red tips avail? Or another part that would work? Thanks

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=278

Wow. The new code is just awesome. Chad is the man. There are so many things, but the things I appreciate the most:
1) extended ball save time
2) skipping the trex diagnostics on start up
3) additional chaos call outs for each shot hit

The first two just make the game so much more pleasant / less frustrating. I know it's stupid (diagnostics don't take that long truly), but if I had only time for a couple of games, I often would skip JP in favor of another game that was ready to play immediately at powerup. Having the ball drain out of the pops after 4 seconds was just demoralizing.

The chaos callouts add much more than I could have imagined. With so many balls coming at you, you usually don't see when you hit the chaos shots at first. Hearing it is extremely satisfying.

I got inspired yesterday and spent some time fixing a couple of little things. The machine is completely dialed in and I'm loving it. Had been thinking of trading it not too long ago, glad I waited.

Anyone have any suggestions for stopping, or at least minimizing airballs? The 4 rubber posts from the egg shot to the ramp are the worst offenders. I've installed Superband rubbers there. But boy, I'm getting crazy air balls. Enough to fly to the back part of the plastic covering the egg target, enough to fly over the pop bumpers, and jump over or land in the wire form ramp. And it's usually several per game.

Is it that the rubbers are too bouncy? Should I install standard post rubber there?

Actually, no, this is not how DE Deger flipper theory of operation works. Would be correct with EM-style flippers, but not Deger SS.

With DE flippers, the EOS is NC, and the flipper gets a several-millisecond 50v kick and then the flipper board holds at 9v. regardless if the EOS opens or not.

If the flipper bat is struck by a ball (Raptor Kickback) and the EOS goes from open to closed, the coil gets another 50v kick and goes back to 9v hold. This is why JP is the first DE Deger game to even have EOS switches; look at DESW and R&B - no EOS switches at all.

If the EOS is misadjusted (left open at rest), broken or missing, you get weak flips in DE, because you only ever get the 9v hold voltage, and not the 50v kick.

Different hardware versions from different manufacturers have differing Theory of Operation.

RussM

I installed Cliffy posts when I had mine and didn't have any issues. I changed over to Titan silicone post sleeves and it's airball city! I might revert back. I think it has to do with the bounciness. The Cliffy's are firmer than even black rubber as far as I can tell.

I didn't realize Cliffy made post rubber. Will have to check out. Only $1 per piece. Not bad.

Got thinking, I'm wondering if it's a combination of two things. The Superband flipper rubbers and the posts. I'm wondering if there's too much grip on both. The ball is spinning when it comes off the flipper, and when it hits the post, that spin momentum is what launches it into the air. Which may account for all the different directions the ball goes, despite coming from one general area.

Noticed my machine is already getting dirt tracks down the lanes, so I'm going to have to open it up soon. Will check to see how tacky those rubbers are.

I haven't been able to get this to work. New code seems fine otherwise, but every time I turn on the machine it goes thru these diagnostics regardless of me pulling trigger or hitting any combination of buttons/trigger.

You need to complete a full game for this function to activate in the memory

I've been able to get it to work coming out of diagnostics without playing a game first. I'll hold down the trigger before exiting, keep it held down until the game goes past the version info screens and into attract mode. T-Rex never moves.

Ok stangbat, I bet that's it...never tried it that way. I have already logged a few dozen games, so assuming its just my technique

You just have to have one game in your audit. Then it should work anytime thereafter.

Basically, the very first time you turn on the game after putting in the new ROM, it will not work. Play one game and then every time you turn on the game it should allow you to skip diagnostics if you hold down the trigger while the game is showing the version numbers... you have to keep holding it down until you get to the attract mode.

In fact, you only REALLY have to be holding it down the moment the game goes from showing the version info to showing attract mode. This means you can reach down with your right hand, turn on the game, then bring your right hand up to the trigger and hold it until attract mode starts.

Ahh, I misunderstood your previous comment. I thought you meant it only worked after you had played one game each time the game was booted. I didn't realize it was after one game was on the books it works every time.

There are some cool mods for this game. I think I may have to make this my next game.

Yep. I've updated the guide on my website to clarify this functionality.

Guys looking to do some touch up on the cab. Pretty minor but at the same time easy. Knowing not all black is the same, does anyone know what paint to get? Black is top priority but if you know the red yellow and white, please post. Not aware of any dedicated pinball places that sell paint that matches.....

Pinball universe has some.

http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm

nothing specific to JP however and im not sure if that black would match sorry

Anyone know the part number for the metal hardware piece (see pic) that is on the underside of the playfield? Also, if known, where to get it? Not finding it on the typical sites!!

Also, I see that they use to make the plastic ramps for JP but everywhere I look they're "out of stock"! Any leads on this would be appreciated!

IMG_51761.jpg

I would send Terry a email to get some measurements on this to see if it will work.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=playfield+Pivot+Bracket

Thanks for the post and the link. With the link you provided I now see what it's actually called so I searched on "pivot bracket" and see that Marco does have them http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5329-02

Installed the new ROMs. Even if my JP isn't really playable ATM due to needing new switches and boards, the new code is an immediate and obvious improvement. Immediate drains are no longer an issue, no Stampede every time to begin, no interminably long T-Rex diagnostic when you need to power cycle the machine ... really looking forward to everything being fixed so I can play for real. Thanks so much @ChadH - also donated.

Also got my Loop Combo Scoop Light Mods, cards and trees:

jpp.jpg

Im having issues with the scoop light mods loosening from their brackets due to normal playing.have tried gluing them onto the "sticks" again but it doesnt hold. Any tips? Better superglue?

Hey Edenecho, I've recently switched to using an araldite epoxy glue for these. It tends to hold much better than super glue. I hope that isn't too much trouble! It took a while of selling these to get feedback that super glue was failing.

I took the metal wire out of the signs and ran it up the back with glue. More surface area for the glue to hold on to. Haven't had an issue yet, and they still look amazing!

I will see if I can find something similar to use, or glue the wireup the back as also suggested

You'll have to use your own wire, the one that was originally supplied won't be long enough. I just went to Menard's and found some near the towing wires/cables.

If you're happy running wire up the back then go for it! The reason I prefer to glue it sticking straight in the back is to have the minimal amount of hardware showing through when backlit.

Agree on this, so wire back will probably be a last resort.

The stuff I use is called Araldite here in NZ. Not sure if that's a trade name or not. It's one of those two-part epoxies. Some packs have two separate tubes others have one that mixes as you syringe it out.

Immediate drains shouldn't have been an issue before either, as that wasn't overly changed.

I'm not overly surprised that people haven't raved about this code yet, only because JP was such a well done game before that this I think is like nice frosting on an already good cake. SWDE was different because that game simply sucked before the code update. If you spend enough time with this game though, you'll discover just how nice the code tweaks make it.

Love the the new code. It gives the game new life. I loved the game when I got it. Im a sucker for "mass" multiball. I guess the next one I need is Apollo 13 (like the movie but don't know if I would like the pin but willing to try) chad thanks for the update. Donation coming soon. Thanks john for the rom service.

That's one I need to play. Curious to see how the moon shot works. And would love to see the 13 ball multiball.

I love the fact that the egg is worth shooting now. It's awesome!

I played Apollo 13 at the PHOF a few years ago and experienced the 13-ball multi-ball. That is some strange stuff, but fun.

Gord

Have the new code and t rex does not eat the ball any more. Is there something i need to change?

Original, there are three times ive seen the trex eat the balls:

1. First time you hit trex saucer for T - letter
2. During feed trex mode
3. When statting multiball in trex saucer

maybe he removed the ..ball eating from 1 and maybe 3 to not kill the "flow"? Will test the new code on thursday.

I agree that this is frosting on an already nice cake. That said, I assume that he means that if by chance you do drain immediately, it is no longer an issue because the timer has been extended by more than the original 3 seconds. This was a big improvement - especially since sometimes you really would drain immediately but the time the ball spent bouncing around before fully draining would allow the ball save to expire. As mentioned above, I consider this one of this top improvements.

Should have made it more clear... This is an official rave about the new code. I'm raving.

4. When finishing TREX letters for award.

Really excited to try this out. In a way it will be a sort of a..bash the egg x times for multiball ready

In our tournaments it has often been an issue, the ball hits the bumpers for a second too long, and then sometimes exits down the middle.

I had the version 4 and that is when it ate the ball as well. It also burped during diagnostics some times.

I wouldn't think the new code is the issue. It doesn't impact the normal operation of the t-rex.

Does your t-rex still work in manual diagnostic mode? Left, right, center, up and down? Maybe you have an issue with left/right and previously had it turned off and now it defaults to on and isn't passing self diagnostics so is being deactivated?

It worked with the old code

But what Winteriscoming is saying, are all the variables the same? The new code will reset all the option to the default setting. Your old code may have had some options turned off.

Try the self test like he says. You can use the flipper buttons to move it side to side, and maybe the trigger I think to bend the TRex down? or maybe thats the comping movement? I don't know, get to that diagnostic screen and push buttons and see what happens.

*edit. It's not the code that seems to be the problem, because it doesn't sound like any of us have that issue. What it sounds like Winteriscoming is saying, is that you may have had Left/Right movement turned off before. With the new code, it will turn back on. Maybe your Rex is able to go one direction, but maybe not the other, so it hasn't landed back onto the center switch, which would tell the game that the TRex can eat the ball.

Not to get too far off topic, but the 13 ball multiball is definitely chaotic....but pretty pointless. They literally dump all 13 balls on you at once, and seven or eight of them will drain before you even touch them with your flippers. And it takes FOREVER to obtain the 13 ball multiball. If I remember correctly, it would accumulate from game to game. So you could actually pop a few quarters in, hit the shot once and boom, 13 ball multiball all because of someone else's work!

I get what you're saying now on the drain stuff. We did extend that time, but it wasn't by much, with the goal being to take care of exactly what you said. Having said that, immediate drains were covered, we tried covering one or two seconds beyond that for the reasons that you said

I personally would put the best changes as this:

Video Mode - While I loved the video mode in this game - it's the ONLY video mode I can say that I really truly like - having it do the same thing every time was crappy. By instead making it so that it randomly picks - AND does it for extra balls - it greatly improves what I think is one of the neatest modes on the game.

Escape Mode - No one knew how this worked at all before. It took us a while to dissect it and it turned out what I thought was going on originally wasn't at all. It now has graphics and scores that match what should be going on, so if you hit Smart Missile during it expecting 110M points (what it used to seem to award), you'll see what it actually awards (41M, if memory serves).

Mr. DNA - I HATED how the machine would randomly pick stuff to make you feel absolutely stupid sometimes, and the selection was slow. Oh hey, what do you want: 5M, 10M or 20M?! Spent a long time going through and making different awards that give an interesting risk / reward to the player for their selection. Is it better to Max Bonus or get Park Revenue +5M? Creates a lot of interesting stuff - AND Mr. DNA was sped up, so you actually have to time the selection a bit.

Little tweaks I really like:

Park Revenue - This used to be totally worthless, we raised it enough to make it once in a while worth shooting for. With modes worth an average of 30M, it was silly to have the Park Revenue "award" worth like 780,000 or whatever. It's realistic now to make it a few million, which while still not much is at least more than most random playfield shots.

Random Dino Crossing - It took me years to figure out what the random dino crossing was worth on the game. Now, when you shoot it and kill it, it flashes 10M on the screen, which is actually considerably more than it was - and a much better award for pulling your hand off the flipper button to shoot it (old was 3M!).

Combo Shots - Always bugged me that the game registered one combo shot (ramp, boat dock, helicopter) but not the other (ramp, left loop, helicopter). Really glad that is fixed, even though it's totally minor and not worth a ton of points.

Egg - For such a difficult shot, it gave almost no real awards before. Now it does much quicker. Also, shaving off 5 Egg hits to get to Super Egg means that people will have a real shot of getting to that mode legitimately. Additionally, once you start Super Egg, it starts as a two ball multi so you don't have to hit the Egg shot again to actually get to do anything in the mode.

Overall, the changes aren't major, but a lot of the annoying stuff that the game used to do is gone and it's a little bit clearer. It's not the game changing code of SWDE, but it really helps the little things, I think

Just for the sake of clarity, there are 2 types of diagnostics for the t-rex. I'm not sure on the official terms.

1. Self diagnostics - this is what the game does when you first turn it on and the t-rex moves around. I believe if this test doesn't result in all the t-rex switches getting activated, the game will automatically deactivate the t-rex. Not sure if partial deactivation or full deactivation. I haven't had issues where it has failed so I'm not 100% on the consequences of failing. If you have left/right turned off, it won't check for that in self diagnostics, which is one suggestion for how it might have worked before, but doesn't now.

2. Manual diagnostics - this is where you go into the test menu and get to the t-rex screen where it lets you manually control the t-rex to make sure everything works. In some other menus you can turn off left/right motion. You can also disable the t-rex altogether, but I wouldn't think you would end up deactivated by default with the new roms.

I can't offer any advice if the t-rex isn't verified working, regardless of whether or not it worked with old roms.

It is working1444743320036.jpg since it is verified as working. And i have the trex set to eat the ball. Any other suggestions?