(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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  • 10,392 posts
  • 587 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by jpdefan
  • Topic is favorited by 243 Pinsiders

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59 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 10,392 posts in this topic. You are on page 208 of 208.
#10351 27 days ago
Quoted from Garrett:

If there was a switch that worked properly I’d use it.
They don’t make or sell the original switch any longer.
Option switches are used on modern games. Are they “over engineered “?

Well the replacement I bought from best of pinball works perfectly, so there are indeed replacements even nowadays.

I think that they (optos) are overengineered for such a simple use case, but that's just my opinion. My experience is limited and I have no idea what the state of the art on modern machines are. But these are not modern machines.

It's not like everyone has to agree, everyone is free to fix their machine as they please. Using an opto for where a simple switch is enough feels like an overkill to me, but as I said, that's my opinion. I'm not trying to convince you to put a switch or an opto, to each their own

#10352 27 days ago

One cannot just wire in an opto pair in place of a regular physical switch, as an opto coupler part needs to be used and then you have to wire in 12v to the transmitter opto.

Then there is the matter of making sure the optos are aligned directly across from one another.

#10353 27 days ago

For the regular playfield switches, you can replace the switch itself, if the switch arm is not bent up. Arm can be moved over to the new one. https://www.pinballlife.com/microswitch-with-diode.html

#10354 27 days ago
Quoted from jpdefan:

Well the replacement I bought from best of pinball works perfectly, so there are indeed replacements even nowadays.
I think that they (optos) are overengineered for such a simple use case, but that's just my opinion. My experience is limited and I have no idea what the state of the art on modern machines are. But these are not modern machines.
It's not like everyone has to agree, everyone is free to fix their machine as they please. Using an opto for where a simple switch is enough feels like an overkill to me, but as I said, that's my opinion. I'm not trying to convince you to put a switch or an opto, to each their own

What you are failing to realize is that I have tried two replacement switches and they do still leave a ball in the trough at times.

It’s also associated with ball trough wear that occurs over time. But no replacement troughs are available.

That’s good that yours works.

Mine does not.

To heighten the heresy, I’m one of those that installed Davi’s opto board for the ball trough 1-6.

#10355 27 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

One cannot just wire in an opto pair in place of a regular physical switch, as an opto coupler part needs to be used and then you have to wire in 12v to the transmitter opto.
Then there is the matter of making sure the optos are aligned directly across from one another.

That is correct.

And it has been done previously.

Picked up the DE JP six months ago that had seen lots of usage. Read through every forum post possible for trough issues 1-6 and the switch 7 issue.

And in that search came across this thread started four years ago for an opto board modification done by Davi;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/interest-check-data-east-ball-trough-opto-board-

That opto board works great and the build quality is excellent. The optos also alleviate the added friction of the micro switches as the ball pass through the trough.

I have sanded the divots out and tweaked the shit out of the trough ten ways from Sunday. No recommened replacement switch so far has repeatedly and reliably stopped the stuck ball issue during CHAOS and System Failure.

Again, if you are fortunate enough to have an properly operating trough, great.

Some of us don't and I'm looking forward to the updated opto for #7.

Opto Board 6 Ball (resized).jpgOpto Board 6 Ball (resized).jpg
#10356 27 days ago

I'm glad to hear that your opto works I'm just saying if there's the option to change the switch, that's how *I* would proceed. I'm not trying to undermine such great work, it's certainly impressive.

#10357 26 days ago
Quoted from jpdefan:

I'm glad to hear that your opto works I'm just saying if there's the option to change the switch, that's how *I* would proceed. I'm not trying to undermine such great work, it's certainly impressive.

Thanks for kind words.
There is a reason why Bally/Williams introduced opto boards, and the answer is not cost saving.
Also Data East/SEGA did this, first with SW7 opto, then finally the entire ball trough became opto based. That's the nature of evolution.
But I understand your way to keep factory as possible - on the other hand, factory doesn't mean the best nor most reliable. Luckily, we have options.

#10358 25 days ago
Quoted from jpdefan:

Eh, to each their own I guess: I'd rather just change the switch (but I'm a stickler for having the machine as original as possible), the opto looks nice but feels a bit overengineered to me. Anyways I changed my switch months ago and worked perfectly well so hopefully I won't have this problem again for quite a while!

My playfield says "1 MISSLE PER GAME"

Multiple spelling errors!

#10359 24 days ago

Wow! Never noticed, cant unsee now…

Is there more errors? stegasaurus is a classic of course but thats on the dmd

IMG_1005 (resized).jpegIMG_1005 (resized).jpeg
#10360 24 days ago
Quoted from Preacher:

Wow! Never noticed, cant unsee now…
Is there more errors? stegasaurus is a classic of course but thats on the dmd
[quoted image]

They must have caught the error at some point during the playfield manufacturing process as mine has 'Missile' spelled correctly on the insert.

Gord

DSCN3380 (resized).JPGDSCN3380 (resized).JPG

#10361 24 days ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

They must have caught the error at some point during the playfield manufacturing process as mine has 'Missile' spelled correctly on the insert.
Gord
[quoted image]

Mine is spelled correctly, too. Build date June 21, 1993. Whoa, maybe the misspelled units qualify as collector's items.

#10362 24 days ago

Mine was made in May 1993, so is it seems that's the cutoff date

Quoted from Preacher:

Wow! Never noticed, cant unsee now…

sorry

#10363 24 days ago

How do you know the manufacturing date? Is it printed somewhere on/in the machine

They added smart as well when they changed the insert.

#10364 24 days ago
Quoted from Preacher:

How do you know the manufacturing date? Is it printed somewhere on/in the machine

Right on the serial number tag.

#10365 21 days ago

Spent the day cleaning and redoing all the rubbers!

20240623_172602 (resized).jpg20240623_172602 (resized).jpg
#10366 20 days ago
Quoted from RetroG33K:

Spent the day cleaning and redoing all the rubbers!
[quoted image]

We had a spa day over the weekend. Funhouse Southpark Slugfest and Hot shots. Dale Jr is next when I have some free time this week.

#10367 19 days ago

Anybody looking to sell in the noho area?

#10368 19 days ago
Quoted from Hazry:

Anybody looking to sell in the noho area?

See one in your area on FB but may be a bit high in this market. They over payed when they bought it but not sure of West Coast pricing.

Jurassic Park 1993 Pinball Machine - Like New
$5,500
Listed a week agoa week ago in San Marcos, CA

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1494310787959468/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aa1d76d44-b45e-4f23-b550-fc0b9f58d32d

#10369 19 days ago

Need a new power supply board.

Any reason to steer clear of Rottendog?

They look pretty flash, and are cheaper too.

#10370 19 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

Need a new power supply board.
Any reason to steer clear of Rottendog?
They look pretty flash, and are cheaper too.

Xpin is a clear choice over Rottendog

#10371 19 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

Need a new power supply board.
Any reason to steer clear of Rottendog?
They look pretty flash, and are cheaper too.

Only use as a last resort. First one came DOA. Second one came with dmd high voltage DOA.

#10372 19 days ago

Xpin don't post to Australia

#10373 18 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

Xpin don't post to Australia

Always internet search pinball part numbers. It will show who sells the same parts. In this case, I can see Nitro and PPS as 2 suppliers I would not have thought of.

xp-de5047

#10374 18 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

Xpin don't post to Australia

I have xpin ones in australia, rottendog ones are crap, cause display and sound issue

#10375 18 days ago

Xpin is the first choice, rotten if you must.

#10376 18 days ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

I have xpin ones in australia, rottendog ones are crap, cause display and sound issue

You have Xpin boards for sale???
I can't seem to find any Xpin boards available to/in Australia.

Found a couple of second hand originals, but I'd much prefer quality.

#10377 18 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

Found a couple of second hand originals, but I'd much prefer quality.

Nothing wrong with having a original board, but it is time to replace all the smaller electrolytic capacitors as they do leak from age and the heat and can shorts across voltage rails or even eat up the traces underneath as it is corrosive.

#10378 18 days ago

Duplicate while trying to edit above post

#10379 18 days ago

I normally like to keep the original power supply, and repair as needed. Xpin power supply is my 2nd choice. There is no good 3rd choice.

#10380 17 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

You have Xpin boards for sale???
I can't seem to find any Xpin boards available to/in Australia.
Found a couple of second hand originals, but I'd much prefer quality.

email [email protected]

#10381 17 days ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

Right on the serial number tag.

thanks, mine was from may 14 1993.

#10382 13 days ago

My DEJP was working great, then strange things began to happen all at once. I'm hoping someone can shed light on this puzzle. Erratic and intermittent behavior with the DMD, sound, T-rex and/or play. Every flip of the power switch seems to offer a different show; or just a speaker ticking away. I was able to get it to boot twice, ran diagnostics which showed no errors. Voltage checks: +5 is +4.9; +12 is +12.3; -12 is -14.4; +68 is 71.0. Then it degrades into simultaneous chatter/machine-gunning of the two backbox mini-relays: K1 on the PPB lower left, and the flipper ground relay (@C20 on the CPU.) Visual inspection of all boards, connectors, wiring, caps, etc. revealed nothing. I've done all of the tech bulletin fixes. If anyone has any ideas of where to start, please let me know. Thanks.

#10383 13 days ago

Edit change

#10384 12 days ago

Maybe unhook as much as possible from the cpu to double check that it isn't another board hosing everything? Those good voltages are during error state? I would pop leon's test rom in and listen to all the PIA's with a logic probe on the bench, but there may be more elegant solutions nowadays. You will get more eyes and traction if you make a separate repair thread in TECH.

#10385 12 days ago
Quoted from supermoot:

Maybe unhook as much as possible from the cpu to double check that it isn't another board hosing everything? Those good voltages are during error state? I would pop leon's test rom in and listen to all the PIA's with a logic probe on the bench, but there may be more elegant solutions nowadays. You will get more eyes and traction if you make a separate repair thread in TECH.

This is really good advice. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks for your response! I'm navigating uncharted waters here (I have a new probe but haven't used it yet.) So any help from the tech side would be gratefully appreciated. Answer to your Q: the pin sometimes finds its way to attract mode, and that's when I measured the voltages. So that's likely not an error state. I'll try to measure again when it's misbehaving and maybe uncover a few clues. I'll post any substantive results here. P.S.: where can I learn more about Leon's test ROM?

#10386 11 days ago

My trex started AGAIN going up and down endlessy with the jaw locked.

Either I fumbled my repair and did a bad solder job on the new relay (very likely) or I have something upstream frying my stuff.

I'll open it up this weekend, sigh. I guess it's time to learn how to check the voltages on the power board... I'm a bit scared of high voltages T.T

#10387 11 days ago
Quoted from jpdefan:

I'm a bit scared of high voltages T.T

That's a very rational fear. Clip your ground probe to ground then probe with one hand held behind your back. That way if you get shocked the electricity is unlikely to cross your chest. It's somewhat safer this way but of course not without risk.

Stay safe.

#10388 11 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

This is really good advice. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks for your response! I'm navigating uncharted waters here (I have a new probe but haven't used it yet.) So any help from the tech side would be gratefully appreciated. Answer to your Q: the pin sometimes finds its way to attract mode, and that's when I measured the voltages. So that's likely not an error state. I'll try to measure again when it's misbehaving and maybe uncover a few clues. I'll post any substantive results here. P.S.: where can I learn more about Leon's test ROM?

Upon reflection I bet its going to be power related. Re-read the power supply section on pinwiki and look for leaky caps and such. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Missing_5VDC_-_Leaky_C2

I had a bad pia really messing with stuff once and leon's helped me find it. you only need to go this route if its not definitely blanking or something more obvious. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Data_East_CPU_Board_Repair

#10389 10 days ago
Quoted from supermoot:

Upon reflection I bet its going to be power related. Re-read the power supply section on pinwiki and look for leaky caps and such. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Missing_5VDC_-_Leaky_C2
I had a bad pia really messing with stuff once and leon's helped me find it. you only need to go this route if its not definitely blanking or something more obvious. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Data_East_CPU_Board_Repair

I've procrastinated too long. I need to get a DC power supply for bench testing. Would you have a suggestion for a modest-priced model/voltage range? I can't see where I'd be using it for anything other than pin testing. Thanks again for staying with me on this. Happy 4th!

#10390 10 days ago

Get an AT power supply out of an old computer. You will have to add a jumper for it to power on - no big deal. They are dirt cheap, and provides 5VDC, 12VDC, and negative 12VDC. I got two power supplies from a recycling center, cost me nothing.

#10391 10 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballPirate:

Xpin don't post to Australia

Xpin does ship to Australia. It is the ecommerce thing on my website. If you send me an email at [email protected] I will generate a Paypal Invoice with shipping charges to you. Best I can do with the system as it stands.

#10392 9 days ago
Quoted from jpdefan:

My trex started AGAIN going up and down endlessy with the jaw locked.

I cleaned the contacts and the traces (there was some dirt, admittedly I didn't do a very clean job last time) and it's back working. I wonder if it was indeed this the case, but oh well!

However, while fixing my game I noticed this (sorry for the awful photo quality)

bumpers (resized).pngbumpers (resized).png

I noticed a hole right where the plastic near the top bumper is. Is it supposed to have a light there? I'm afraid I'm missing one lol, the previous owner had done some whacky wire hacking to bring lights where the flipper buttons are (i already removed the transparent buttons and put the stock-like, yellow one, of course!) and I think a light was here. Can someone double check for me please? Thanks!

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