Jurassic Park
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Quoted from TommyNYC:And because life cant be perfect the plastic piece here just broke on the upper righthand flipper. Conecting the arm. I think its white plastic.
Does anyone know the proper name for this so i can order a replacement? Hope this machine doesnt keep throwing little surprises at me.[quoted image]
Here you go: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5611-00
Like others, I would recommend a full rebuild: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6306-20
Quoted from TommyNYC:Hey Guys
If i was to replace the glass on the JP is this a wide body or standard size glass?
Purchased mine from Betson Amusements in Dallas for $25, but not sure if there is one in your area or not.
Quoted from woody24:Well MY guy had a sale for $20 for a sheet last summer.
“My guy” makes it sound like you bought out of his trunk along with a used car stereo 
Quoted from Geteos:I posted these in the 3D printing thread, but figured they belong here too.
I'm working on my own 3D printed gate replacement and scoop light up signs. Drawn up in Fusion 360 from scratch. The plan is to use 3mm and 5mm LEDs on the gate for "flames" and maybe reusing the existing lighting for the scoops signs. If I print the signs in Natural translucent PLA and paint the depressed areas in black I should get a nice effect (I hope).
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Hmmm, I'm interested to see how transparent they come out. In all of my clear PLA printing, the thicker things printed in clear are the more milky they become. Still translucent, however. I've never tried clear PET, so don't know if that is any better or not at maintaining transparency.
Also, why is the face of the two posts so rough? Is that by design for texture or just the way it came out? What orientation did you print them in?
Quoted from Geteos:It was printed face down with bed supports so it ended up with a rougher texture when I pulled it off. I’m printing it again right now with it facing up so I’ll post it in comparison if you’re interested.
Ahh, the remnants of a raft.
Also, I don't know about your printer, but with my Prusa MK3 I can change filament based upon the current print layer. This would be ideal for the Jurassic Park sign that spans the top of the two pillars. The arch could be the same color as the pillars while the sign could be red/orange and yellow with layer changes.
Quoted from Geteos:Yea that would be ideal, although I would have to buy those colours haha. I'm running an Ender3 with Octopi.
I haven't explored all its features as most of the items I've printed in the past have been more functional than decorative. Does it basically just pause during the print to let you load in the new colour?
Yes. In the Slic3r slicer (I assume in others also) there is a place to add custom code either before or after a layer. Basically, I tell it after which layer to pause and to inject the replace filament command. The printer will stop after the layer designated, lift, and move to the front of the build plate. The screen then prompts you to remove the filament. Once that is verified, the screen prompts to insert the new filament, feeds it, and then asks if color has changed successfully or not (if not it feeds more and prompts again). Once confirmed the print head moves and lowers back to the model and resumes print. You can add as many layer changes as you wish (the most I have done in any model is 5). Not as good as a multi-color printer, but then again if all you need are layers printed in different colors it is great with no waste.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Anybody put titan rubbers in a Jurassic Park? If so, what color would you recommend?
You need to check out the Titan database for Jurassic Park: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/2603
Just click on each user link and you can see what they went with. Not that you have to copy exactly, but it's a good reference point for what is needed.
I joined the club today, and I'm very excited! Previous owner is a pinhead, and takes great care of his pins. Purchased at a very fair price (I will not disclose), and pin came with a ton of add-ons (see below). Of course there are a couple of minor things I need to take care of, but in my mind this is a solid quality pin all the way around, and one that will stay in my possession for the foreseeable future. Now I just need to figure out how to play the game!
- ColorDMD
- PinSound
- All LED
- Tim's Static Gate
- Tim's Small Raptor Crate
- Tim's T-Rex Saucer LED
- Tim's Smart Scoop Lighting
- Loop Combo Scoop Mods
- Pinball Life White Egg
- Jeep with Illuminated Headlights
- All New Titan Rings
- Mirror Sideblades
- Illuminated Banner
- Illuminated Back Wall
- NVRAM
- Palm Trees
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Quoted from edward472:Did you notice that your spitter targets and triceratops target aren't 3D targets? Not bashing your machine. It's gorgeous. Just saw it and it made my OCD twitch.
Yes, actually owner was in process of switching out to the flat targets since a few of the originals were broken. He gave me the remainder of the new targets to install, so that is on my to-do list. Will end up with all flats. Might still cause you stress since not the same as original, but at least they will be consistent.
He also liked a little more upward flipper position than I'm typically comfortable with. I need to research what is "standard/default" for this pin regarding flipper position as I think I would like to set to that and then customize to my liking from there if needed.
For the most part I'm happy with the lighting (I've changed a couple of bulbs already), but think I'm going to see if I like white better in some of the GI where green is currently.
I also have one broken plastic (the one attached to the right pop/jet) as it is missing the lower finger that covers the metal bracket. Need to see if anyone has one to sell, or if anyone can at least provide a high res scan so I can make my own.
While the machine is in great condition, I can't help but put a few of my own touches on it. All in due time.
Quoted from edward472:I find anything other than the recommended flipper setting makes the pop bumper loop and the dock shot very difficult.[quoted image]
Awesome, and thanks for posting that for me. I was confused about the hole alignment position since my experience is only with my Williams Getaway where best practice is to insert a straightened paperclip between the flipper plastic and rubber at bottom of bat then insert the paperclip into the alignment hole. Was wondering how I was going to do that on JP where the hole extends out beyond the flipper.
Does anyone have one of these plastics for sale that is fully intact and in good condition (to the right of the rightmost jet/pop bumper, or just below it given the orientation of the photo)?
If not, is there someone willing to do a hi-res scan (1200-2400dpi) for me so that I can make one?
Need some advice from established JP owners. I have my new one all setup at 6.5 degrees of tilt and perfectly level side-to-side. Whenever I make the left loop (forget what its called, but shot with right flipper through the pops then up and around the top of the pin), 9 times out of 10 when the ball exits the loop at the right it takes an odd bounce and then descends to an automatic center drain.
I'm sure this is not the intentional design, so was wondering where the ball should hit (right or left flipper) and what adjustments I could make to correct this.
Quoted from edward472:What is it bouncing off of when it exits the loop?
I need to video it to determine and I've not had a chance to test by hand (just played 3-4 games since I've had it setup). It looks like it might be coming out of the loop at an odd angle and just hitting the side that leads up to the dock/free ball and bouncing off that. I'll collect some more data today and post.
Don't know if a T-Rex ate this guy's dog or what, but oh the vitriol for our beloved game: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-hate-club#post-4882949
Everyone may soon discover that I enjoy modding games, creating custom artwork for them, and selling my items at reasonable prices to others who like them. Up to this point, I've only owned a Getaway and I've pretty much created all the customizations I can for it. I'm pleased to see that JP already has all kinds of mods, but that won't prevent me from putting my own twist on things.
With that stated, I've created my first custom decal for the coin door (that blank black spot was calling out to me). Anyway, I've created two versions of the coin door sticker (I refer to them as "Hazard" and "Sunset") and will sell them for $6 each which includes postage to US (I will ship outside of US, but charge appropriate postage). I typically am able to create and ship within 2 days, but often times quicker than that. Please note that the images attached are watermarked, and of course the actual decal will not have the marking.
These decals are handmade using only the best quality materials. I start by printing the high resolution graphic on OEM ultra gloss photo paper on a 6 color photo printer using OEM inks. I then cover the graphic with 3mil high quality clear gloss vinyl for protection and finish. I then use a high tack adhesive sheet and apply to the underside of the decal. I cut out the decal using a straight edge and razor knife along with cutting the rounded corners using a tool that ensures a perfect rounded cut. Once the decal is fully cut out, I darken the exposed edges of the decal to prevent the white of the paper being visible around the perimeter.
If anyone is interested, please PM me with your design preference and we'll work out payment and delivery info from there. I know that I'm new to the group, but I have literally sold hundreds of decals and other customizations for the Getaway (see Getaway club thread for validation), and have even been commissioned to create custom artwork, toppers, etc. for a variety of other pins by people who appreciate the quality of my work.
BTW, before anyone comments on it, I realize that the T-Rex only had two claws on each of its hands even though my decal has 3 claw marks on each side (2 just didn't look right). Therefore, we'll just have to assume that even though the logo pictures a T-Rex that a Velociraptor made the scratches. 
Hazard Coin Door Decal
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Sunset Coin Door Decal
JP_CoinDoorDecal_Sunset (resized).jpgIMG_1929.JPG
Quoted from Asmig:Adjust your top right flipper all the way back against the metal rail, if the ball contacts the rubber at the tip of the bat it will deflect it to the center drain. You can also adjust the metal ball guide above the flipper out if its hitting the top of the flipper bat. Properly set up that loop should cleanly return to the right flipper.
Company just left, so now I have some time to go take a look to see what is occurring. I'll report back as soon as I can. Thanks everyone for the help.
In summary to previous posts, whenever I make the loop through the pops, the ball comes out, hits the side rail (at no point does it even come close to touching the upper flipper) then it bounces in such a way that it center drains almost every time.
Images of ball exiting loop
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Images of where ball hits side rail
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Quoted from jesperpark:I'm not at home to check this, but to me in the last picture the metal guide is bent incorrectly. That looks to be altering the ball trajectory and causing sdtm drains. When the ball comes around it should be tight against that rail, and direct the ball so it can be hit with the upper flipper. Really the rail should be following the same as the playfield black line below it
Thought that might be the case after I looked at the photos. I can definitely work to bend it, but before I do can someone please post a close-up of how their rail is aligned at the same spot? Just want to make sure before I start bending things.
Many of you probably already have something similar, but I would also like to offer my Jurassic Park double-sided keychains for $12 each (includes shipping to US - will ship outside of US with extra postage). If you own alternate translate, I'm happy to customize keychain to match.
Please PM me if interested.
FYI, thanks to everyone for the loop help. Bent the end of the rail into the correct position, and now all is right with the world again. FYI, I think it is actually harder to manually roll the ball through that loop than actually hitting the shot with the right flipper.
Quoted from Geteos:Finally got my 3D gate to where I like it. It hooks into the existing wiring, no gator clips or soldering. Made little clear prints flames too.
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Awesome work, great job!
I have a question, what events make the flashers go off (2 red domes left/right back of playfield, 2 clear domes left/right center of playfield, and 2 flashers on top of backbox?
I've not seen them go off yet during game play. I thought I might have a problem, but all flashers fire during service mode testing.
I will share all of my inserts (I have several of them). Will post sometime this weekend when I get a chance.
As far as the plastic pieces go, I washed them, polished with Novus 1 using my drill with foam pad, then cleaned up with some Invisiglass cleaner, reassembled, and much improved.
Quoted from edward472:Chaos multiball. The red flasher in the back right goes off when extra ball mode is lit from the control room. The clear flashers go off during the skill shot at the beginning of each ball.
CHAOS MULTIBALL - haven't done that yet
SKILL SHOT - haven't noticed, I'll have to make it a point to watch
What about the two on top of the backbox?
Quoted from Chalkey:Chaos is easy to get to. Just hit one jackpot and hit the smart missile before you exit multiball!
I know I'm going to sound like an idiot, but still trying to figure out ruleset. My only other pin is a Getaway, and while very enjoyable it has to have one of the simplest rulesets ever. Just progress through the gears in a linear fashion and follow the lights. On the side, light up all of the traffic lights and lock a ball each time.
Quoted from edward472:Chaos multiball. The red flasher in the back right goes off when extra ball mode is lit from the control room. The clear flashers go off during the skill shot at the beginning of each ball.
I get no flashers in the game, period. Reading through the manual last night in bed, I thought I saw a setting where flashers may be turned off. I need to find that section again and see if that is the case on my pin.
Found it! Adjustment 32 Flash Lamps was set to "OFF". I changed to "NORMAL", and wow, what a difference! I love the game even more now.
Attached are all of my custom coin inserts for Jurassic Park.
Download PDF, print and full size on 8.5" x 11" paper (do not scale and do not check "fit to page" in Acrobat), cutout, and install.
FYI, I learned that all you have to do to remove the coin insert pieces is to remove the two screws at top on the inside of the coin door for each of the left and the right inserts. I made the mistake on my first try of starting with the bottom two screws and dropping the whole mech off the door which was completely unnecessary.
JP_CoinInserts.pdfQuoted from GRB1959:Do you print these on regular paper stock or photo paper stock?
Gord
I print them on a matte presentation paper. Photo paper would be too thick. If you don't have specialty paper, just use a high quality bright white paper for best results. However, you could also print them on cheap everyday copy/print paper and results would be acceptable. You need something that allows the light to come through, but you don't want to see blotchy white spots or have poor black coverage.
Quoted from Whitewater:Help with speakers please
Hi guys
The factory speakers do not have labels or marking?
I am trying to work out which wires connect to the +ve terminals and which wires connect to the -ve terminals on the speakers.
Backbox speaker 1
Black
Black (yellow stripes)
Backbox speaker 2
Red (black stripes)
Red (white stripes)
Cabinet speaker (woofer)
Yellow (white stripes)
Yellow (black stripes)
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[quoted image]
[quoted image]
BB Right | Black/Yellow = +
BB Left | Red/Black = +
Cabinet | Yellow/Black = +
- Source 1: https://www.pinsound.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/data-east_speakers_install_full.pdf
- Source 2: https://flipperfidelity.com/media/wysiwyg/DEPS_Flipper_Fidelity_Data_East_PinSound_ALL_installation_instructions_11302015.pdf
- Manual (p24) states this: "1. Check each speaker for polarity markings. If the speakers have polarity markings, verify that the single-color wire (BLK, YEL or RED) is connected to the negative(-) terminal."
- Pic from p44 in the manual.
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Well, I have my first issue. In the middle of a game the T-Rex was failing to eat my ball. Long story short, in switch test the T-Rex saucer switch does not register (physically the switch moves up and down and even makes an audible click when I depress it). I swapped the switches between the T-Rex saucer and the saucer at top right and the problem stays with the T-Rex saucer location (i.e. the problem is not the physical switch). Whenever I did the swap, I also left the diode (or whatever that barrel is) on each switch so it made the move with the switch. In other words, I move the known working switch with diode from the top right saucer to the T-Rex saucer and the T-Rex saucer switch still does not register in switch test. I take the original non-working T-Rex switch with diode and move it to the back right saucer, and it registers perfectly in the switch test.
Any ideas regarding what my problem may be if it is not the physical switch/diode combination?
Quoted from PantherCityPins:If the switch is ok then you may have a wire disconnected somewhere else in the switch daisy chain. I would trace that color wire to other switches and make sure you don’t have a wire loose somewhere.
You nailed it. According to switch matrix, T-Rex saucer is row 7 (white-violet) column 7 (green-violet). I tested all of the row switches first and everything worked. Then testing the column switches and nothing worked - aha, it's the green-violet wire. Checked some of the targets that share green-violet and they were not working either. Checked wire solder connection on each of the targets, and found one that had come loose (tricky because visually it looked like it was properly connected, but popped right off when I touched it). I resoldered the wire to the lead, and all is right with the world again.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! The guy I bought it from told me that because of the shaker on this pin he has to occasionally repair loose/broken connections. Guess I had my first, but now know in the future what to look out for.
Did a little maintenance on my new JP and even did some upgrades. Replaced a few LED's with my preference (a few GI lights were green, but I replaced with white, couple of insert lights, and upgraded spots). I also added a light to the upper right scoop by tying into the GI bulb just to its upper-left. Biggest upgrade was a set of PinSound speakers. I must say that the frequency range is much better than original, bass is stronger out of new sub, and overall clearly better sound now. The PinSound speakers seemed like they were ten times heavier than the originals and much better quality, of course.
Can somebody please tell me what this short black rubber bungie with the s-hooks is for exactly? Funny thing is that I didn't even notice the bright orange sticker until I posted this message, so know I'm thinking it is some sort of security mechanism for when you have the playfield fully lifted?
Quoted from Asmig:Correct, if you lift the playfield all the way up there would be an eyelet bolt on the bottom of the playfield that you would hook the bungee onto to keep it upright.
Thanks, I'll have to look for it next time. I've had the playfield up several times already, but just never paid attention.
Just finished installing my PinSound Headphone Station, and it is great! Cool thing about it is that it can be used to control speaker volume when headphones are not plugged in. Very good for me because I am needing to replace the volume potentiometer which is almost completely shot (you can either set it to full blast or full blast static sound). With the headphone station you disconnect the volume control from the pin to the PinSound, so now you can control volume w/o having to open the coin door (good for me, maybe not so good if you have small kids in the house).
Also, the standard 2.25" leg bolts that were on my pin were not long enough since I have leg protectors (the stock bolts would have worked without leg protectors installed). I had to swap with a couple of 2.5" bolts from my Getaway for the time being until I can buy some new ones for JP.
You are welcome. Also, he is right, the coloring is much deeper than in his photo. You need to see it in person to appreciate it, so I encourage everyone to buy their own from me (shameless plug). 
Just posted in JP Mod thread (never sure where to put stuff - here or there). The arrow sign freely rotates depending upon how tightly you secure it. Anyhow, Since Tim is hanging it up I designed and created my own East Dock sign. I do apologize that I had already put the glass back on when I remembered to take photos. I would be willing to produce and sell these to others, please PM if you would like to discuss.
What is the best/easiest way to replace the two bulbs under the plastic ramp just behind the gate? Should it be done from the bottom of the playfield by removing the sockets, or if from the top what all must be removed to get to them? I prefer natural white to warm white, and these are the only two warms remaining in GI (make things appear dingy to me).
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Quoted from Lonzo:I would take out the sockets. Easy and quick
That was my gut instinct. However, guess I need to lift the playfield to see positioning of these to determine just how "easy and quick" that it really will be.
BTW, I figure most JP owners must be dinosaur fans in general. I happened upon this article today regarding the largest T-Rex ever discovered: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/2019/03/worlds-biggest-t-rex-found-in-canada-scotty-dinosaur
Quoted from Lonzo:I would take out the sockets. Easy and quick
Well, no it isn’t. Those two sockets are stapled to the underside and have metal leads connecting them, not to mention very difficult to get to. Going to have to do it from the topside.
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Update: I ended up removing the two screws securing the gate to the ramp and the two screws securing the plastic ramp to the playfield. From that I was able to lift the plastic ramp just enough to get my fingers to where I could remove and replace the two bulbs (was still a tight fit for me, but I persevered).
Quoted from jesperpark:I just changed those light this past weekend, I had the large plastic over the captive ball removed anyway, then unscrewed the back screw of the metal guide rail on the right side of the raptor pit. from there a easy rotation and my wife's smaller fingers to change those lights
Too late for me as I just read your post. Looks like we’ve given those who come after us two ways to do it.
Just finished an afternoon of maintenance and some updates. Changed out some LED's and fixed some lights from add-ons that weren't working (I think they came loose during the move). Installed a red ball catch for the T-Rex to replace the yellow one since I'm lighting it with a red LED. The flipper buttons and flipper bats were nasty and could not be cleaned, so I installed new ones. Also needed some new leg bolts since the ones that came with it were too short to work with the PinSound audio control. Finally, the top of the backbox was missing the domes so I added those, while also painting the front of the metal reflector back and lining the back of it with aluminum tape for reflective purposes.
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Thinking about adding the two Pteranodons to my game (missing them). I found the birds, but can anyone tell me what diameter of piano/music wire I should use to mount them?
Okay, I need some help with my T-Rex side movement. I have read everything I can find, but did not uncover my exact scenario. Previous owner told me he had disabled side movement and he hadn’t had time to diagnose, so thought I would give it a try. Here is the situation this far:
- Blue power cable for motor was disconnected, so I reconnected for my testing (disconnected when done since I don’t want the motor running full time).
- Manual side movement is not possible (i.e. try to turn the T-rex by hand and it won't budge - no play in it at all).
- Removed motor from gearbox and manual movement is free (of course) and when looking into gearbox it appears that the gear that is visible is fully intact with all teeth.
- While motor is disconnected when I turn on pin the motor begins to run and never stops running.
- In T-Rex test mode, motor does reverse direction back and forth with press of left and right flipper buttons.
- If I hold the long gear that is attached to the motor while running, I can easily stop its rotation, but seems like the motor itself is still spinning (ie the gear is slipping).
- Voltage to motor is pretty constant 4.5V.
My first thought is why is the motor spinning at all times? Why is this not enough force to turn T-rex, and has this trashed the motor?
Quoted from winteriscoming:Do yourself a favor and get a pair of Papo pteranodons. The stock versions look like crap, and the movie didn't even have any in it anyway (but let's ignore that for now). At least the Papo versions look like the ones from JP3.
I was looking at these (inexpensive): ebay.com link: Data East Jurassic Park Pinball Machine Pteranodon Bird Set A MUST HAVE New
Quoted from winteriscoming:If you're looking for stock versions, those are not stock. That's someone trying to mark up some cheap (and cheap-looking) toys. They're no better than the stock ones, but they aren't stock.
Not looking for stock. Just something similar.
Is this something like you are suggesting? Not sure what size I am looking for, but don't want them overly large (e.g. would like similar size to originals). https://www.amazon.com/Papo-The-Dinosaur-Figure-Pteranodon/dp/B000GL1BHO/ref=sr_1_1
Just read questions. One person measures as having an 9" wingspan (sounds way too big).
Also, I see what you mean by the Papo quality. There stuff looks highly detailed compared to everything else I've seen.
From a support thread I created, things seem to be pointing to my gearbox. I've searched everywhere, but cannot seem to find an explanation on how to remove it from the game. Can someone please detail for me (or point me to a place that already describes it) how to remove the gearbox? I assume you have to somehow pull the entire T-Rex assembly, but I can't figure out how to do that either.
Quoted from Asmig:Correct, if you lift the playfield all the way up there would be an eyelet bolt on the bottom of the playfield that you would hook the bungee onto to keep it upright.
Looks like I'm missing the eyelet (I see a hole where it should be). Oh well, don't know that I need it anyway.
Quoted from edward472:What have you guys done for the backbox glare? It doesn't bother me, but my wife is really short (less than 5 foot tall) and complains about the glare. I bought her a DMD glare eliminator that I'm going to install this weekend to help with that issue. I've removed some of the GI bulbs in the backbox. Anyone have a EnerGI Maestro? Does dimming the bulbs using this help with the glare?
I just use a bent plastic, but I'm 6'3". I'm sure the DMD glare eliminator will go a long way, but she still may have some backbox glare.
Alternatively, you could get here a stool to stand on when playing 
Quoted from J-Freeze:That G.I. maestro is worth every penny.
First I've ever heard of it. Just checked out the website & watched all the videos. Very cool product for $123 shipped! All of his vids are on a LAH, so was wondering how many GI lines does JP have and what does each light?
Quoted from Chalkey:Did you ever get anywhere on this? I'm going to look at one later today that is stuck left.
Nope. I'm at the point where I can't figure out how to remove the entire assembly which is required if you are going to detach the gearbox (there are 3 screws attaching the gearbox accessible from topside, but one of them is completely covered by a metal plate above it). Trying to get someone who has actually done it before to instruct me or at least have someone point me to where it is documented (I've not been able to find anything yet).
Had friends over last night and the bottom right flipper started flaking out on me. It stopped working intermittently then completely stopped altogether even though the upper right flipper worked fine. Didn't take time to lift the playfield then, but will look at it later today. I'm assuming possible loose wire somewhere in the line, but any other pointers are appreciated.
Also, I've seemed to have lost the spring on my lockbar handle (literally, it has disappeared and I can't find it - who knows where it shot off to). Can someone please post a pic of the spring and where it attaches so that I can install it correctly if I can find a replacement?
Quoted from Davi:Special request - power supply box
That looks great. What material are you using, and do you think it has enough ventilation? I've never bothered to touch the power supply installed in my cabinet to see what kind of heat it generates.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I want it for my 12v power supplies that I have for my mods. Would clean that up nicely. Fancy red box looks better than two black boxes. I wonder if I could mount them to expose the D-plug power on one side....hmmm
I agree, and it looks awesome. My questions were not intended to be critical, rather, I was just curious in case I wanted to make one for myself.
Quoted from winteriscoming:Certainly take a ton of pics. If you're able to document the definitive steps, I'm sure the community would appreciate it.
Here are some details provided for me by flynnibus. I'll try to remember and take pics for posterity.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues#post-4914950
Quoted from Geteos:I’m having T. rex side to side issues too but I’m waiting to fix my getaway flippers before I start disassembling another one of my pins. I can hear the motor or gears grinding but there’s no movement. Up and down works fine though.
Looks like I'm one Super Mario Bros. behind your collection. Funny thing is, I had the chance to get one really cheap about a year or so ago, but somebody beat me to it.
Quoted from Chalkey:After doing a little more reading have you tried reflowing solder on the relay board under the PF and fuse board above the shaker?
I did not reflow, but I did remove both and inspected them closely with both feel and magnification. Both boards and all solder points appear to be in perfect condition. What is odd now is that I can get side-to-side movement after loosing up things by hand (worked dino side to side multiple times with motor removed). However, during t-rex test it tries to do its bows down to the trough when it is off to the side and not centered. Then at the end of the test it turns all the way to one side and the motor never shuts off.
I gave up and put everything back together so I could play over the weekend, but I've not given up yet. Need to fix my new flipper issue now, and then I'll re-explore T-Rex. Everything on my pin looks and works great, so just my OCD nature to get this working too. I also noticed a stray wire under the playfield from an earlier owners repair, so I'm sure I'll be showing that to the group soon and seeking advice. It runs all the way from the backbox to one of the ball trough ball sensors. My guess is that a wire broke or something so instead of figuring it out and repairing it, the operator just bypassed the problem with a new wire.
Couple of follow-up items:
1) I found my lockbar spring. It was actually still screwed to the inside corner of the cabinet but the end that attached to the lockbar handle had broken off. Did my magic with some plyers to form a new loop at the end, and we're back in the spring business.
2) My flipper issue ended up being either a dirty contact or the leaf switch not making contact at all. I put pin in service mode and when pressing the flipper button I could hear the coil fire and it even moved a little. Started playing with the leaf switch that is next to the coil (not the button one), and seemed like it was the issue. Cleaned the contacts and did some minor bending, and everything began to work. I've played a couple of games with no issues. While I was at it, I adjusted the tolerance for the double phased right button leaf switch (both of my flippers were engaging pretty much simultaneously). Now a minor to about a 3/4 press of the button fires the lower right flipper and a press of over 3/4 of the button fires the top right flipper. Cool thing is that I can now backhand both the East Dock and the Power Shed from the right lower flipper w/o the upper flipper getting in the way. Not sure if this is how it is supposed to be setup or not, but I like it!
Quoted from J-Freeze:Finally got around to putting service rails on!
What a game changer, if you were on the fence DO IT! There's a little bit of careful drilling but it's not that hard. Used a 5/8" spade bit for the T nuts. Pilot drilling the lower holes is where you have to be really careful.
So much better than those dumb posts.
So much better.
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After having this pin and lifting the playfield several times, I will never curse my Williams Getaway design again.
Quoted from vec-tor:Both Pteranodon are mounted with a piano wire.
There is a "L" bend at both ends in opposite directions?
with round loops at the ends that take the mounting truss head screws on one side.
The other open loop side is mounted on the left side of the playfield.
So as to fit the model's in between the two wire forms (habit trails).
One is mounted under the Truss screw and above the plastic.
The other might be mounted under the keeps nut to the entrance gate
or other Truss head screw and plastics.
The wire forms break from air balls hitting the models.
The Pteranodon models sometimes block the ball paths on the
wire form ( habit trails). Operators would remove the models and throw them away.
Pictures would be worth a thousand words here. Can someone please post some close up pics of how the Pteranodons are mounted?
Quoted from Meloyelo51:Where can I get one of the goats? I forgot about that guy lol
Here is the one I purchased then I painted the various areas black (hooves, mouth, nose, around eye, and then all of the spots) | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GULG6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
For the chains, I purchase these and ended up using the 4" black one (took clasp off one end and then used the larger circle link left to secure to one of the plastic screw & nut combos | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G6ZQ4RF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01
I then secured the goat to the plastic with Scotch/3M clear mounting tape on the bottoms of each of the feet.
Quoted from Chalkey:It sounds like your T-rex position switches aren't working correctly Mr. Tantrum.
That is what I thought, but all of the switches are registering correctly in test mode. What really confuses me is that the motor is on non-stop from the time power is applied to the pin until it is turned off. For now, I have the power to the motor disconnected until I have time to take another stab at it.
Quoted from chrisnack:Your 2nd image, not sure why it’s not showing up....
You put a rubber on that adjustment post? Do most people?
I see both pics just fine, and thanks for posting.
Just installed my new pteranodons. First of all winteriscoming recommended the Papo one, and he is right that Papo produces the most detailed models. However, I wanted something a little smaller and a little cheaper since I wanted two of them, so I chose the Safari Ltd. ones which are the same as the pair listed as “Data East Jurassic Park” on Amazon and eBay for $15. They ended up being nice enough for me, and while not close to Papo they are a significant improvement over the pictures I have see if the stock ones. I looked at memory wire which was also suggested but wasn’t sure what to get so I ended up with 0.032” piano wire which worked great. Basically wrapped the wire around the legs of the figure then shaped appropriately to where I wanted to anchor.
Sorry, had already put the glass back on when I remembered to take pics.
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Quoted from Chitownpinball:mr_tantrum those green flipper rubbers look great. Titan?
Yes, if I recall, they are the thin versions.
Quoted from Whitewater:Super impressed
My board arrived today, it even came in its own custom 3d printed travel case for safe shipping. Wow, what service.
A big thank you all, the way from Australia
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Snazzy!
Okay Jurassic Park owners, I've finished my themed JP target decal set and wanted to show them off to everyone. I will be selling the decals (see below), but before we get into that I would like to highlight a few things.
- There are 11 targets in the set: 3 left bank (3 full red), 2 right bank (1 full green, 1 half red), 5 upper bank (3 half green, 2 half red), and the captured ball target (1 full white)
- All of the decals are themed according to the corresponding dinosaur for a given target as stated in the manual. Where there are two of a given dinosaur for multiple targets I used a male and female rendering for variation (the one exception is the 3 bank Dilophosaurus/Spitter where there both genders but the middle target is not fanned out).
- The background of the targets is styled after the Isla Nublar graphic in the middle of the playfield, and colored according to the target the decal is applied to (i.e. red or green)
- Decals are printed on OEM ultra premium photo paper using a 6-color inkjet photo printer with OEM inks. Then they are coated with a 3mil clear gloss vinyl, and a high tack adhesive layer is applied to the back. Next, they are precision cut and then the corners are rounded to give them a professional look. Finally, I color the edges appropriately (green or red) so that they blend in with the target instead of having a white border exposed (except for the white egg target).
I'm offering the full set of 11 targets for $30 which includes postage to US addresses (I will ship outside of US, but will have to quote postage on a per order basis). Please PM me if you are interested in purchasing, and I will provide payment details and ETA for order.
Alternatively, I have designed a decal set for just the Spitter bank which resembles the playfield graphic of the Dilophosaurus. If you would like to purchase a set of these 3 targets for just the left bank instead of the full set of 11, they are $6 including US postage.
Left Bank: Dilophosaurus/Spitter
TargetPhoto1.jpg
Right Bank: Baryonyx (top-half/red), Gallimimus (low-full/green)
TargetPhoto2.jpg
Top Bank: From low to top (left to right in photo) - Triceritops (half/green), Herrerasuarus low (half/red), Herrerasuarus top (half/red), Brachiasuarus low (half/green), Brachiasaurus top (half/green)
TargetPhoto3.jpgTargetPhoto4.jpg
Egg (haven't had a chance to install yet, so no install pic):
Egg.jpg
Alternate Left Bank Only (all 3 decals are the same)
Spitter_Target.jpg
Quoted from J-Freeze:This look great! Finally a good looking set of target decals!
Thanks. I'm glad you like them. Sorry it took me so long to acquire a JP so that I would think to take a stab at target decals for it.
Quoted from GRB1959:I have the following two scans of the requested JP plastic that I chased down from various Pinside users who were generous enough to help me out when I was working with Pinbits to get plastic protectors created for JP a few years ago. Pinsider markp99 provided a complete set of JP plastic scans and Pinsider winteriscoming also provided several JP plastic scans for me at the time.
Hopefully these two JP plastic scans help you out.
Gord
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Thank you!
Quoted from JohnJN:Morning All,
I came home with my first JP yesterday night and had a question regarding the 'T-Gate' -- is the ball supposed to go up the shooter lane, through the T-Gate and into the pop-bumpers? it seems to hit the t-gate and just head down the playfield - meaning unless I flipper-hit the ball into the pop-bumpers it doesn't actually go into that location.
Welcome to the club - new owner here myself.
Quoted from GRB1959:I have the following two scans of the requested JP plastic that I chased down from various Pinside users who were generous enough to help me out when I was working with Pinbits to get plastic protectors created for JP a few years ago. Pinsider markp99 provided a complete set of JP plastic scans and Pinsider winteriscoming also provided several JP plastic scans for me at the time.
Hopefully these two JP plastic scans help you out.
Gord
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Can somebody tell me what this hole is for? There is nothing on my game that lines up with it.
JPplastic1.jpgQuoted from Lonzo:My reproduction doesn’t have that hole. Don’t remember if the original did or not.
My broken original did but wasn't used. Thanks, I'm not going to drill it on my replacement.
Quoted from Asmig:There is a clear plastic post that goes there
Thanks guys. Neither I nor the previous 10+ year owner ever had it, so I'll think I'll just go without since I don't want to make a special order for that and a ring that matches my others.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Thanks.
Stupid question... when you say "the legs" do you mean the part that physically touches the ball or the parts underneath connected to wires?
"legs" are referring to the metal leads where the wires are connected that extend out of the switches.
Quoted from Davi:My assumption: while you lifted the playfield, the harness is grabbed by the lockbar receiver, and pulled the wires. Left 3 switches are damaged.[quoted image]
Didn't you invent a fix for this problem (well, a side benefit anyway)? 
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I don't have the exact numbers (someone else will give you those) but let me give you this one piece of advice so you don't repeat my mistake. DO NOT PUT 8 SMD FLASHERS IN THIS MACHINE! I might go with 3 SMD tops. I ended up putting electrical tape over 5/8 of the SMDs on mine and that made it so I could play without a seizure.
Good luck!
Oh, I disagree. I use 13 SMD flashers in both my pins and love them (https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/13smdg18tower.htm)!
It is purely a personal preference, but I like the flashers actually impacting my visual senses. I first used more modest flashers and ended up sending them all back. I just didn't like that they didn't draw my attention at all due to being so muted. If you do go with the ones I link to above, you just need to be sure you have clearance for them wherever you want to use them (they are fairly tall). In some areas on my Getaway I had to use spacers to lower the socket further below the playfield, and on JP in a couple of spots use washers/nuts to raise the lens a little.
A couple of other decisions you will need to make are which white (warm, natural/cool, sunlight) and color matching inserts or not. Personally, I prefer the natural/cool white as they really brighten up the playfield and bring out the coloring of the artwork. The warm whites more resemble the original incandescent bulbs, but to me they just make things look dingy and dark. Of course, then you need to figure out frosted or non-frosted or no lens at all (I prefer non-frosted/no-lens for inserts and frosted for GI). I'm one who matches bulb color to insert color, but others will tell you this is a faux pas. I also prefer to only use white for all GI as it brings out the color of the plastics and the playfield artwork versus using colored GI (have to be careful with color GI or pics of your pin will show up in the infamous Rainbow Puke thread 8).
Finally, for the GI and insert bulbs, make sure you purchase the non-ghosting versions. Otherwise the faint flicker all over the playfield will drive you nuts.
Quoted from winteriscoming:I asked in their announcement thread about digital printing, and they'll allow you to define your own colors if you want. However, I also read that the screen printed colors were aiming for the correct color when illuminated, so I'm not sure if that's a factor in the digital printed versions. I'd prefer the colors to match the stock unlit plastics, but I haven't put any effort into identifying the Pantone colors.
I have no idea what the original Pantone color designations are from the manufacturer, but I do own a Pantone color bridge (coated and non-coated). I'm sure I could provide some Pantone values that are close for both solid and process color. I would assume CPR's digital print is process color based, but would have to ask them. The reason this is important is because the same Pantone value will generate a different looking color for solid vs. processed. There are also other factors that impact color production on a process color system (i.e. combining multiple base colors to produce another color) such as rendering profile, number/color of base inks (CMYK or CMYK+), etc., but I assume they have their equipment calibrated to accurately hit the Pantone standards as best they can. Important thing would be to discuss in detail with them, and then to actually see a proof in person.
Quoted from winteriscoming:It's one of those things I'd love to have happen if someone else does it. If it's left up to me, I'll probably not bother. I have a CPR set, but I still have my old originals installed in the game with some DIY repairs and a DIY control room plastic that I hand painted.
I understand. I just finished designing the plastic & decal and color matching it based upon my home printing process for my broken center/pops plastic. Much better option for me vs. actually buying an entire new set. Hopefully, I can cut the plastic today (I use Lexan), apply underside decal, and install. Once I get it done I'll post pics here in the thread for all to see.
I may or may not make it available for others who need it. My only way to produce plastics is by hand, and I've actually sold a couple of dozen of them for other pins over the last year or two. I just find them too time consuming and labor intensive to enjoy making them enough to sell them. We'll see, I'm sure I can be talked into making a couple for the right price if someone just absolutely needs one.
BTW, you are correct in that the non-lit coloring will defiantly look different than when lit from underneath. I typically design towards matching colors when not lit, and have been fortunate with the plastics that I have made thus far either were not lit or lightly lit and far enough away from other plastics not to be readily noticeable that coloring was slightly different.
Quoted from Geteos:Lighting some of the larger inserts evenly can be a bit tricky though, I haven't found a solution I'm happy with yet.
If you haven't already, give these a try for the larger inserts: https://www.cometpinball.com/2-SMD-FLEX-Non-Ghosting-p/2smdflexng.htm
You can also use single flex sometimes, and back off the distance between the led and the underside of the insert to better illuminate the entire insert: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflexng.htm
Quoted from Geteos:I personally found the flashers too intense when I swapped them over to 8 SMD LEDs.
I definitely get this perspective, but I just love the lightshow that the bright flashers produce. I encourage anyone who has not converted a pin to LED before to first buy a few sample bulbs, including different flashers, to see what you are going to like before you place a full order. Spending a few extra bucks up front (you will end up re-using some of these bulbs) is well worth the price and time versus placing a full order only to not be happy with some of your selections, and then you have to either live with it, eat the cost of buying more bulbs, or going through a return hassle.
Winteriscoming will eventually have the best T-Rex ever for this pin, but as the title states it is a work in progress:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress
I'm sure PinSound has been discussed in this thread before, but not anytime recently that I can recall. For both long-time and new owners, I highly recommend that one of the first investments you make regarding upgrades for this pin is PinSound. If you are not familiar with PinSound, it completely changes the game play experience. Not only does it bring true CD quality to the game, but the user developed custom orchestrations are a game changer. For this pin Endprodukt has done an excellent job with his orchestration that is free for all to download. He has captured music, quotes, and sound effects from the actual Jurassic Park movie and strategically put them together for an immersive experience. Even still, PinSound allows anyone to create their own orchestrations for their pin using whatever music and sounds they want.
Also, I highly recommend the PinSound Headphones Station whether you use headphones or not. This great addon not only provides a quick and convenient way to use headphones with the pin, but also provides external volume control and gives you the ability to easily switch between orchestrations if you have more than one on your PinSound without having to open the coin door.
If you are on the fence wondering if PinSound will really make a difference, then by all means I'm happy to answer any questions you may have or even take and post a video of JP gameplay with PinsSound in action. Also, if you want to learn a little more about it in order to make an informed purchasing decision, please take the time to read through my guide thread for PinSound here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tantrums-guide-to-pinsound
I know this may sound like a commercial, but I am not affiliated with PinSound in any way. I was new to pinball just a couple of years ago, and purchased my first pin, Getaway, but soon needed something to draw me into it more. I discovered and researched PinSound, made the purchase, and then I was soon on my way creating orchestrations for it. I must say, in my opinion this is the most impactful upgrade you can add to any classic pin. It really allows you to immerse yourself into a game even more, provides variety to the experience, and lets you express your creativity in customizing the sounds of a game to what you like. If audio editing is not your thing, there is also a great PinSound community of people who create awesome orchestrations for a multitude of pins and happily share them for free with others (http://pinsound-community.org).
I've gone on enough, but I'm so passionate about this product that I just feel like everyone should experience it. I know that many here may already have a PinSound or are very familiar with it, but for those of you who don't have one or have never really heard of it, I will happily share my experiences with you and I am also always happy to help with installation and operational support.
Finished my replacement plastic. Color match is really close, although the adhesive sheet I use to attach the decal to the underside of the plastic lightens it a little. I also made one of the holes a little too large (followed a template I had, but obviously too big), but nothing a washer couldn't fix.
I seem to be dominating the thread this morning - sorry, but lots on my mind.
A few pages back somebody mentioned the EnerGI Maestro. This was the first time I've ever heard of this, and after checking out the website I am very interested.
In helping me determine if I should purchase one or not, I was wondering if those of you who have installed one on JP can please comment regarding your overall thoughts, ease/difficulty of installation, satisfaction with your purchase, your settings, etc.
Quoted from jesperpark:Mr_Tantrum
Just thinking with your pinsound headphones output you could add a bluetooth adapter, then send the sound to a another source in your basement (IE speakers in the ceiling). If you want an even more immersive way to play
Cool idea, and would pair well with a big screen TV mounted vertically showing the pin action.
Quoted from edward472:Quick question, should the bottom two flippers be at the same place when fully up? My left flipper looks lower than the right.
Mine are just like yours in that the right flipper has more range. Can’t tell you if this is by design, soothing a previous owner did, or a simple adjustment. My flipper assemblies look really good, so I am sure they had a fairly recent rebuild. I just need to take a closer look at the stops when I get a chance.
Quoted from weasel671:Hi all. Wondering where is the best place to get dinosaur figures and palm trees for my JP?
Amazon for one and then if you google various terms there are some online model companies with good pricing. Papo makes the most detailed and Safari Ltd is a step or two below them.
Quoted from Asmig:Its very easy to install, just a matter of swapping some connectors. Biggest advantage of this system is it doesn't need the relay for GI lighting so no more clicking during GI effects and that alone makes it worth the cost for home use in my opinion. I generally just turn the GI brightness down a little which is done through the programming buttons.
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Thank you.
Quoted from chrisnack:I've got Pinsound and GI Maestro in my JP, both highly recommended. I have the OCD board for the inserts as well..
Now I have to ask what the OCD board is.
Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro but had to sign up to be on a waiting list. 
Anyone aware of an alternate source or one for sale anywhere? I checked the Pinside Market, but nothing there.
Quoted from chrisnack:Probably has a coil stop that's more worn. I lost about 1" of range when i replaced the coil stops with new ones, they were super beat up though, the linkage was hitting the coil actually. I did a full flipper rebuild and replaced everything.
Thanks for the insight. Doesn't seem to impact gameplay, so I'm not too concerned. I'll take a closer look and add any parts needed to my whish list when I happen to make my next parts order.
Still having issues with my T-rex after following several suggestions. Does anyone have any idea of where I might look to next?
You can see latest post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues#post-4934755
Quoted from jorro:[quoted image]
Yes, I did check the matrix, and everything else works perfectly. I have movement in all directions. The main issue is that the motor is running non-stop, so we are leaning towards a faulty transistor.
Okay, I'm figuring everything out and getting better at the game. I do have one question regarding a shot, however. What is the best way to shoot the T-Rex saucer? All I have figured out so far is to hit the boat dock (left flipper mostly, but I can occasionally backhand it with the right flipper), wait for the ball to come down, then with the upper flipper hit it into the T-Rex pit which will feed the ball into the saucer.
Quoted from pduffy:Tried to go on the Pinsound site for the board and the site is down
https://www.pinsound.org working great for me now.
Quoted from kba78:After looking closer at the manual, look at Q27 and upstream from there back to the 7408
Can you please evaluate my post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues#postbox
Nevermind, see next post | T-Rex is fixed!
Well everyone, my T-Rex is back from the Chiropractor and has regained his full range of motion. Issue for me ended up being a blown Q24 transistor on the MPU board. For those who may experience the same issue, my symptoms were basically that the side-to-side movement was erratic and not working. When looking closer, the issue was that the side-to-side motor was always in an on state (i.e. it never turned off). It would change direction, but would eventually force the T-Rex all the way to one extreme or the other depending on the direction the motor was spinning.
You can read all of the details and resolution here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues
Thanks to everyone he offered help, and a special thanks to winteriscoming for all of his help diagnosing and getting down to the root cause.
Starting to build a collection of my custom mods, so thought I would put them all together in one link. You can see everything I have available here: http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/jppinball, and just PM if you would like to purchase anything at anytime.
Just got to my second shutdown ever (my score was still bad, however). Fun thing when it happens.
BTW, I don't understand how to set the extra ball score. Can someone please explain the steps?
Quoted from edward472:Do you mean setting the score for when you get a free game?
Maybe. I have mine set to award a free ball instead of a game.
Quoted from newovad:Mr_Tantrum You will need to go into the Audit & Adjustment functions. Go past the last one, (#12 Expand Audits) to get to Adjustments. From there, you'll want to look at #4 Game Awards (Factory set to Credit). Hit start to switch from Credit to Extra Ball.
Yes, I have done this. But how do I set the score at which an extra ball is awarded? It's weird in that it seems to change from game to game right now.
Quoted from weasel671:Wonder why mine does not?
Check the white rubber tip that is on your plunger. My launched balls started missing and I quickly figured out that the white rubber tip was coming loose and not fully seated on the shaft. I put a little double-sided tape on the shaft, reseated the rubber tip, and the ball upon launch hasn't failed to enter the pop section since.
Quoted from edward472:If it changes from game to game, check adjustment 16. Sound like Replay Boost is set to YES.
Also, take a look here https://www.vpforums.org/index.php?app=tutorials&article=59
You were correct, I set #16 to no. That seemed to do the trick, now free ball is at the level set instead of randomly changing. Thanks.
Received my ball trough opto board from Davi yesterday, and since I didn't have anything better to do today I decided to take on the installation project.
First, I needed to trace a wire that a previous owner had installed and was connected to one of the switches. It went all the way from the white wire lead on switch 2, up through the backbox, and was spliced into the color wire for the same switch there. Long story short, I removed the wire, tested continuity on the original wire, and everything was good. I have no idea why somebody would bypass a perfectly good wire. Onto the opto board . . .
1) First thing I did was to tin all of the leads on the opto board (very crucial to do this before you install)
2) I already had a 12V supply coming from alternate source, so I hooked a wire into it - positive and ground (I used the dual wire I recovered from the no longer needed switch bypass), and with playfield lifted ran the wire through the cable management on the underside of the playfield up to where it would reach the opto board
3) Turned on pin and put a meter on the end of the newly installed wire to test for 12V (I was good), then turned off pin and lowered playfield to where braces were resting on lock bar area (i.e. end of playfield was slightly elevated and extended beyond the cabinet)
4) Put pin in service mode and ejected all 6 balls then turn pinned off
5) De-soldered all wires from 6 trough switches
6) Removed both screws from all switches to remove them (set two aside to use for mounting opto board)
7) Mounted opto board with backing in place (3D printed protector that came with the board) using 2 screws taken from removed switches (opto board mounting holes aligned with two of the existing threaded bracket holes)
8) Soldiered power wire to power pads on board (made sure neutral and positive were correct)
9) Turned power on to insure power was going to opto board (it was) and turned back off
10) Soldiered green/white pairs to appropriate station on the board
11) Turned on pin and manually tested optos, making slight adjustments where needed then turned off pin
12) Lowered playfield completely, powered on, and played a game
13) Success!
Quoted from winteriscoming:I've got one of the opto boards on the way from Davi. What was the shipping time for those in the US and did it require a signature?
It was crazy fast - shipped 4/11 and received 4/16. It did require a signature (at least I watched my wife sign for it on our security camera).
Quoted from winteriscoming:I think that's when mine shipped or maybe the day before. Does your tracking number work on USPS? It's not showing as a valid number for them, and the Magyar Posta tracking site shows no activity since the 11th.
I'm not overly concerned about the shipping time. I'm mainly hoping it arrives before I head out of town if it requires a signature.
Mine was same with last activity showing 4/11, and was not able to figure out how to track after that. Not sure who delivered it, but since I live in DFW (an international flight hub) maybe mine arrived a day or two before yours will.
FYI, I just grabbed packaging out of trash, and it did say on it "signature required".
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Quoted from winteriscoming:I think that's when mine shipped or maybe the day before. Does your tracking number work on USPS? It's not showing as a valid number for them, and the Magyar Posta tracking site shows no activity since the 11th.
I'm not overly concerned about the shipping time. I'm mainly hoping it arrives before I head out of town if it requires a signature.
My wife just said it was our regular USPS guy that delivered.
Who here has removed their side rails for painting or replacement before? Just wondering how difficult it was on this pin and if there are any tips or tricks I need to know before attempting.
Also, what type of tape/adhesive did you use to replace them?
Quoted from Bugsy:Just finished a deep cleaning and minor restoration on my playfield. I decided to add a few extra items, like palm trees, Jeep, pteranodons, raptor, Titan rubbers, and Comet LEDs. I know some people either like or hate some of those “mods”, but for now I’m enjoying the added dimension. And if for any reason I, or the next owner, wants to remove any of them it’s as easy as unscrewing a nut.
I’m still wanting to backlight the “when dinos rules the earth” and backdrop plastics, but that will be at a later time.
It was also my first time flame polishing a plastic ramp and I was very pleased with how the ramp and subway turned out. Pretty much came out crystal clear.
Here are some before, during, and after pictures.
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Much better, nice job.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Who here has removed their side rails for painting or replacement before? Just wondering how difficult it was on this pin and if there are any tips or tricks I need to know before attempting.
Also, what type of tape/adhesive did you use to replace them?
Anybody?
Quoted from newovad:Another trough in the world. I'll need to increase the length of the wires for power (for playfield lifting purposes) but it is up and running. Simple process.
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I could watch that thing work all day!
Quoted from kba78:Hi Mr tantrum,
There is a nut and carriage bolt in front, by lockdown bar and a wood screw in back, under the head. Remove those. Then all that is holding it on is double sided tape. Pretty strong stuff, but I use a thin, somewhere sharp, putty knife and just work it down.
Aircraft stripper will take off powder coating and Rust-Oleum textured black is a quite nice match. The I use 3m Auto trim tape to re attach. Hope this helps
Thanks. Sounds just like my Williams Getaway which was very similar. The plan is to paint them in a caution tape pattern (safety yellow and gloss black).
Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro but had to sign up to be on a waiting list. PM'd maker, and he said that he just sold the last one and now has to wait for new group of buyers before his next run. Told me it could take up to 3 or 4 months.
So, my plea to all JP owners is if you ever thought about buying one of these then now is the time! Help me get mine faster by signing up on the waiting list.
Selfish motives - of course, but you'll benefit also. Get rid of all the clicking during GI changes and also adjust dimming/flashing to help avoid the seizure inducing flashes that this game can have with LEDs installed.
Learn about it here: https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro
Sign up on the waiting list here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfnci_UqqFLH8AF7CiGq_aPceyLlusw0XluQEeJnGR-PyJ-qQ/viewform
Quoted from woody24:Went to install my Opto ball through today and ran into an issue. Seems my mounting hole positions are slightly off. Everything on the ball through looks OEM. No mods or hacks to replacements. Just seems that it's off by half a hole. Just enough to where I can't safely mount the board.
How should I proceed. My first thought is to try and extend the left hole just a tiny bit. Hoping the alignment is good at the front, so by extending the left hole just enough, it will hopefully work. Has anyone else run into this yet?
Also, I took my ball-through completely out. Figured I'd give it a nice cleaning, and the cables disconnect at the Z-connector and makes everything tidy. Just 6 wood screws underneath and two machined nuts under the apron.[quoted image][quoted image]
I mounted mine using existing holes in board and bracket. However, to line up the holes correctly, I used a higher hole on the right side and a lower hole on the left side. In other words, there was a slight upward from left to right slant to the board when installed, but it didn't matter. I had to manually adjust one or two of the LED pairs spacing (maybe a mm or so), but it still works perfectly mounted this way.
Quoted from Whitewater:Cabinet Speaker - HELP NEEDED
Hi guys
Can someone please let me know which wire is the positive and which is negative
It looks like my speaker is the original factory speaker and I want to upgrade it.[quoted image]
Was my answer from a month ago not good enough? 
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/109#post-4888260
Quoted from 7oxford:I just picked up my second JP yesterday. When the ball exits the pop bumpers, after the initial plunge, it often drains straight down the middle. My first JP did this fairly frequently too. I suspect this is why sometimes you see the gate at the entrance to the pop bumpers reversed. My question is: Is there a playfield mod, nudging tip or something you can do to lessen how often this happens?
I know you get a ball save, but this is not very satisfying when the second plunge goes straight back into the pop bumpers too.
Mine literally never does this (at least I've never seen it in the month or two I've owned the pin). I'm at around 6.5 degrees of pitch and perfectly left-right level.
Quoted from Whitewater:OMG how embarrassing , thank you and yes your answer was and is still spot on
No worries, just giving you a hard time.
Quoted from Davi:…"based on Mr. Tantrum's summary."
I'm honored.
Quoted from JohnJN:Thank you Davi -- I don't currently have anything that will read the voltages from the connectors, so I will need to purchase something to triple check your numbers and then try it out.
No need to spend a ton on a multi-meter. Probably can pick something up at Walmart, Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Even better if you have a Harbor Freight close by (they have one for $6 - https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63604.html).
Here are some examples on Amazon for around $10 or less.
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620/ref=sr_1_7
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40508-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_8
Quoted from woody24:Since I've got the machine opened up to install the Opto ball through, I bit the bullet and ordered a ColorDMD. Not really wanting to spend $400, I decided I could bring a peanut butter sandwich to work for the next 6 months. ha.
Oddly enough those two things are installed in completely different places. Sounds to me like you just needed some self-justification (or maybe spousal justification) to buy a ColorDMD.
Quoted from J-Freeze:Do it for a year and get the pinsound too, it goes in the same area as colordmd
Beat me to it, except I would always do PinSound first.
Quoted from woody24:Had to pull the machine out from the wall, which meant moving some other stuff around the room to get into the backbox to install the power connector to power the opto board.
And Pinsound, I'm just not sold on it. I want 100% original sounds. Now if someone can do a 1 to 1 conversion using high res sounds, then I'd be all over that, but since that hasn't been done, I'm holding off.
Now you may say that the new one sounds a lot better. Sure, it may. To you. But this is my 1994 childhood I'm remembering. Now, if I wasn't as much of a fan of JP as I am, then yeah, I'd probably get it. Heck, if I had any other machine and someone updated the sounds and callouts, I'd probably get it for that too because I'd have a less sentimental attachment to it.
Beauty of PS is that you can have multiple orchestrations and easily switch between them at any time, so you could have original and the movie based themes.
However, I do understand your reasons. My Getaway is awesome for PinSound, and I’m now working on my 10th different orchestration for it. Fast paced action with driving theme lends itself to a lot of different music options.
Quoted from woody24:Okay. Help me troubleshoot. Installed the opto board and having some issues. With no balls installed, 3rd and 4th one from the left are already lit. When I test them by running my finger over them, 1st and 2nd from the left work, and oddly, when the second one is lit, the third one goes out. Nothing changes about the 4th one. It always stays lit. And 5 and 6 don't respond at all to anything. Everything seems solidly soldered.
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If already lit you just need to bend the diodes away from each other sightly. If they don’t respond at all then bend them a little closer to each other.
I too had to make a few minor adjustments, but it was quick and simple. Be sure to fully test with pinballs entering and leaving the trough before buttoning everything down.
I put the pin in service mode, blocked the center drain and then ejected balls one at a time. Then I removed block and let them all return. Drained all six a second time but only inserted one ball at a time. This should be enough to make any minor LED positioning adjustments you need.
I don't understand how the holes are not lining up for people. I thought this was the case for me at first, but then I realized they lined up perfectly if I used the higher hole on the right and the lower hole on the left. Once I did this it was perfect alignment, and even with the slight tilt regarding how the board is mounted it still works perfectly.
FYI, here is my ball trough board mounted. You can see the screw holes I used which aligned for me (circled in yellow) without any adjustments at all using two of the original screws from the removed switches. I just wonder if DE was not that exact from game to game with their hole positioning for mounting the switches.
Quoted from cologneled:Nice Club! I want to join this.. What is process?
Buy a Jurassic Park pinball machine and you're in!
Seriously, open and free to all. Just click the star at top to flag as one of your favorites so you can see anytime new messages are posted. Feel free to contribute however and whenever you like.
Just had my best game since I've owned the pin for a couple of months - 812M (5 ball, ROM v6.0). I made it all the way through shutdown, but I missed so many opportunities along the way. After playing JP over the past several weeks now, what keeps my attention are the mini-games within the game. You can make it all the way through the CRTs, but still not score well if you don't fulfill the challenges along the way.
Quoted from Daditude:I hope you mean 812M, not 812K....right? Lol
You're right, 820K would be a little braggadocios.
Quoted from SirScott:[quoted image]
While I appreciate the meme (I did chuckle when I saw it), my point really isn't the score or to compare myself to anyone else. Rather, I'm just happy that I'm getting better and learning how to play the game. Obviously the score is probably the easiest and/or best way to measure one's improvement.
Don't know if everyone is aware of these lockbar rail decals, but next time you order rings/rubbers, you should consider them. Not that they are necessary (then again, that can be said for many things we put on our pins), but they do give an improved appearance every time you lift the playfield for maintenance. I have them on both my pins, and for some reason the nice finished look just makes me feel better than looking at the old tarnished/rusted piece of metal with missing/tattered stickers on it.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=133
Quoted from JohnJN:mr_tantrum - great idea! post a pic!
Quoted from edward472:I have one in my cart. Can you post a pic of yours installed?
Here you go. Full discloser in that I made this one as a test to see what I thought on this pin, so it is not the actual Titan Pinball product (next time I order rings, I'll get the real thing). However, it gives you a good idea of what it would look like. The ones from Titan are of extremely high quality, durable, and machine cut. Eric (Titan owner) is a great guy who loves pinball (not to mention he provides great products), so I always encourage everyone to do business with him. Personally, I have all Titan rings and flipper rubbers on both my machines, in addition to other Titan products, and highly recommend Titan to everyone.
When installing, be sure to clean as best you can the area where it will adhere. I used alcohol and several paper towels to clean mine before applying my test decal.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Everyone calm down...JP is off the chopping block for now....
Don't succumb to peer pressure . . . we're always open and welcoming to newbie JP owners (after all, I'm one of them).
Well, my new JP paint scheme is underway. When I bought the pin it already had safety yellow legs, so I decided to do the same with the backbox supports, side rails, and lockbar. I'm also going to do the side rails in a caution patter theme (angled alternating yellow and black stripes). I'm debating whether or not to keep the lockbar all yellow or to do a caution pattern on it also (may be too much).
After reading as much as I could about using painting pinball parts, I decided I'd give things a try with spray enamel instead of going to the expense of powder coating (only negative I could find was potential lockbar wear, but not really concerned given home use pin). This way I could do it myself all for around $30 all in (paint, tape, mounting tape for side rails, lockbar weather stripping, etc.) Anyway, started with a light sand of parts, 2 coats of double cover gray primer, and 2 coats of safety yellow on inside of parts (where I am so far). I'll do 3 coats of yellow on the outside, tape off and paint my stripes on side rails with 2 coats black, and then everything will get 3 coats of double cover satin clear on top. Taking my time with paint, and if things go to plan I should have everything fully cured and ready to install in about a week or so.
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Yellow is done. I've decided to just do caution striping on the side rails. Tomorrow will be clear coating on the backbox supports and lockbar. Side rails should be cured enough to tape up and paint stripes on Monday.
Going to look similar to what Phetishboy did back in the day, but I'm going to carry my black stripes all the way to both edges: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/share-your-jurassic-park-mods#post-512363
Quoted from jdroc:Joined the club today! Going to need some cliffy's and a color dmd soon but excited to get her home!
Welcome to the jungle!
Quoted from woody24:Whoo! 99% working. The ONLY thing that doesn't work is Ball #6's indicator LED, that's it. I can live with that as I'll never really see it anyways. As least the switch works.
To fix the door from not shutting, I just ended up cutting a notch in the board and relocating the LED power light. Sucks that I had to remove the cool JP logo, but at least I get to keep my Coin mech. It's something that I like to have. I have a ton of old tokens and have the game set to $.50. I like it better that way than just having it set on free play. Since I just have one game, it doesn't bother me.
While I had the opto board out, I also put dabs of hot glue over the leads on the back of the board that stuck out more than others. I also have two layers of Kapton tape over that, and two layers of electrical tape on the mounting plate. Even with all 4 layers of tape, a couple leads were still poking through it all. The hot glue put an end to that.
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Well, that was easy 
Quoted from Wharhed:NOS Topper on eBay for $250 shipped right now (not mine)
ebay.com link
That's just nuts for a piece of thin blow mold plastic.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:How much? I have vinyl tape on mine and I hate it...
I would say it would cost you under $40 to do the siderails.
1 can of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZTPK47A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
1 can of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZYRR4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
1 can of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PIK1YC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00
1 can of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWOS8U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
1 roll of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WLL11A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
1 roll of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JOVUO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01
1) Remove rails (remove bolt at bottom and at top - remove backbox supports to get to top)
2) Lightly sand rails
3) Apply 2 coats of primer 15 minutes apart, and let dry 24 hours
4) Apply 3 coats of yellow 15 minutes apart, and let dry 72 hours (3 days) - do not try to cut this short as you will either bubble the paint if you do it too soon, or the tape will mess it up!
5) Tape your stripes. I selected my angle at random the way I liked it then mirrored it for the opposite rail. To do this set your first stripe where you want it (I wanted it so that the buttons would be on a black stripe). Then apply parallel tape the full length of the rail. When done, remove the pieces where you want to be painted black. Firmly press all edges of the tape down and wrap ends of tape around the edges of the bar. For the opposite rail, place one strip of tape over key area (e.g. button hole) then hold up to other rail to check alignment (they should mirror one another). This may take some adjustment, but once you get the first strip right (lines up on top and bottom to opposite rail) then repeat the tape stripes on it, remove every other one where you want black, press all edges, and you're ready to pain.
6) Apply 2 coats of black 15 minutes apart. Wait 30 minutes after second coat and remove tape covering yellow stripes. Be very careful when you do this and do not touch any of the black painted stripes or you will leave a fingerprint. Let dry for 72 hours (3 days)
7) Apply 3 coats of clear 15 minutes apart. Let dry to fully cured 5-7 days before installing. You could probably rush this a little and just wait 48 hours, but can states full curing takes 5-7 days. Personally, I would prefer full hardening of the paint before I install.
8) Make sure lockbar has good clearance on the sides before installing or I'm sure you will scratch the paint on the new rails.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I mean...youve already got all the stuff....
Well, I would need to buy a little more paint. I'll PM you and we can discuss privately.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Id like one. Need any papo dinos? I have a couple extra we could trade maybe.
I think I missed this and never replied. Yes, always open for a trade, but I think you'd be getting the short end of the stick since my decal is only $6. PM me to discuss if you still have interest, and I apologize for not seeing your post.
Quoted from daveddd14:Hi guys, just joined the club last weekend with a machine I got from a local pinsider. It came with a custom topper (one of a kind I am told?) which cannot fit in my basement so I will be selling if anyone is interested $350 shipped or $325 local pick up. Video of it below;
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Welcome to the club!
In working on painting my rails, I had to remove the mirror blades my pin came with. What I noticed is they had several scuffs on them from the sides of the playfield when being lifted up and down since the blades were installed. While I couldn't buff them out, good news is the other sides are in perfect condition so I'll just install them on the opposite side of the cabinet.
I know others have mentioned to put felt on the sides, but never really spelled it out. My solution cost all of $1 at Hobby Lobby using adhesive backed 9" x 12" black felt sheets (they were on sale for 1/2 price). The felt is nice and thin so as not to take much room, but still thick and durable enough to protect the side blades. I cut the sheets in 1-1/2" widths the full length of the sheet (12") along with the remainder needed to complete a rail (left side also took a 5" 1/2" high section). I applied the felt even with the bottom of the playfield side exposing about 1/4" at top of the rail so that the felt would not be visible with playfield in place. The felt stuck great, and now I feel so much better knowing that my mirror blades will remain in pristine condition.
I'm also going to do this on my Getaway with pictured blades. I already have a few scrapes and tears on those, so the felt should do a fine job protecting them from any further damage.
IMG_2114.JPGIMG_2115.JPG
Are you guys saying the ball just falls off the wireframe that crosses the playfield?
If so, is it possible to manually widen the wireframe a little by hand? This might help the ball stay on.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Mine falls off the ramp from time to time, but only when I get a good straight shot up the ramp with a lot of force. I'm guessing it might be more efficient to slow the ball down after it is up the ramp but before it hits the wireframe.
You could probably accomplish this with some sort of small "pad" placed on the bottom of the ramp in a given spot. I'm thinking like a piece of thin rubber, or felt, or something thin that would grip the ball just enough to slow it down a little without causing it to bounce.
Other idea would be to adhere a magnet underneath the ramp in the right spot to "grab" the ball and slow it down as it passed by.
I just wanted to give a shout-out to Comet Pinball https://www.cometpinball.com for their great customer service. I know there are other good LED suppliers, but IMO Comet is the best. Not only do they have great products, but their support is exemplary. Having been in service oriented industries for most of my career, my perspective in business is that things will go wrong. What differentiates the bad from the good and the good from the great, is how they treat their customers and how they address issues when they arise. Comet has always communicated well, takes a customer focused approach to business, and continues to offer great and innovative products.
Comet is and will continue to be my sole source for all things pinball lighting, and I encourage everyone who can use their products to give them a try.
Quoted from harryhoudini:JP cabinet restore, what are the options? Only thing I've found is the vinyl wrap.
I saw something not too long ago where a guy did a restore, and actually had vinyl decals made which he applied to the black cabinet and then clear coated. Can't remember if it was its own thread on in a general thread somewhere, but it looked great.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Yeah, I'm talking with him actually but it sounds expensive to get cut. Lots of vinyl, 3 colors. Contemplating it.
You could always go "all in" and send it off to HEP: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18
I actually did a poor man's restoration of my Getaway a couple of years ago. I left the pin in place, sat it on a table and removed hardware, gave it a light sanding all over, did touch up paint and a few wood fills, then applied vinyl decals which I printed at a very reasonable price by a Pinsider in the printing business (I had the artwork - much less than anywhere I could find the decals). Is it a museum piece? No. Is it significantly better than what it was before and does it look nice? Absolutely.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Not close to being worth it. The game sells for like $3k in good condition.
I forgot the "sarcasm" emoticon on my post 
Actually, just a cheap way for me to expose HEP to those who may not be aware. His work is incredible, but you must be willing to put much more into a pin than it will ever be worth to others. Kind of reminds me of people who spend six figures on a 1970-1980's car restoration when they could have gone out and bought a brand new high performance car for less money. Just depends on what you are passionate about and what emotes more than just the item itself.
Will the guy share the artwork with you? If so, I could refer you to the Pinsider that did my graphics who was very reasonable. Not to mention, we talked on the phone for about an hour just about pinball. I always like doing pinball business with people that are actually into the hobby.
Quoted from edward472:mr_tantrum has flat targets if I remember correctly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/107#post-4883478
I had some from previous owner, but after having the pin for a couple of weeks, I just didn't like them. Ended up putting 3D ones back on spitter targets (owner still had them), and had to purchase a few more to replace a couple of other flats and/or broken ones that were on the pin.
The main reason I didn't like them was all of the behind area exposed. The game was designed with these thicker targets in mind. Not saying that others wouldn't like it, but just not my preference.
FYI, if anyone is interested in flats, shoot me a PM and I'll sell you the new ones I have at a discounted price. Not sure exactly what I have, but I can take inventory if you are interested.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:[quoted image]
Hey Honey, could you please come hold something for me for a few seconds while I do something to the pinball machine? 
Quoted from edward472:Shout out to Lonzo on the tip for removing the prongs on the TRex saucer. Bought some NOS saucers but had the tabs. The tabs were rejecting the ball. Some sandpaper and 30 mins later.... good to go
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Yeah, I installed a new red one (figured it represented blood) but it too has the tabs (I did keep the yellow one for the dock, but installed a light on the underside to illuminate it). My main issue is that they catch the ball, and I have to nearly tilt sometimes for the ball to fall in the saucer. Can you link to Lonzo's post where he tells how to address the issue, please?
So bummed about my paint job. Everything done except clearcoat, but it has been unusually cold and rainy here the last 3 days so I can't paint. Mothers Day is looking promising, however. I've had the pin torn down for two weeks now, and if I can finally paint tomorrow then I can put everything back together by next weekend.
Anyway, don't mean to moan too much, just having a little JP withdrawal.
Quoted from jesperpark:I want to say mr_tantrum makes/sells those now
Thanks for pointing me out for the sign. weasel671 just placed his order with me.
I would say as a concept it is great, and I love seeing someone actually developing something people in this thread have been discussing and wishing for.
However, to offer constructive criticism it looks a little bulky, and I wonder about the view from the player's perspective (how much of T-Rex does it block?) I would work on a design that thins the width of the 3 posts (maybe the two outers to the same width as the LEDs with the middle even thinner), and I would use thinner cables (e.g. maybe some straight piano wire instead of looping back whatever thicker material you are using now. Using really thin piano wire would not be as visually blocking and you might even be able to add an extra cable or two. If you were able to use 5-6V LEDs then you could just jumper them off a nearby GI light socket.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I'm not sure if it's possible, but an electric fence mod would be best if it ran the course of the ramp, starting in the back and running up the left side. It would have to be thinner and likely a bit shorter than the one posted above.
You mean around the inside edge of the plastic ramp behind the T-Rex?
Quoted from Geteos:I’m currently using EL wire that lights up so it required thicker posts and supports to accommodate it.
I didn't understand that, and couldn't tell from the pic that it was illuminated. Cool idea. Also, I didn't understand that your LEDs weren't static.
Maybe a video would convey things a little better?
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I'm not sure if it's possible, but an electric fence mod would be best if it ran the course of the ramp, starting in the back and running up the left side. It would have to be thinner and likely a bit shorter than the one posted above.
You thinking something like this? You could definitely follow the contour of the ramp between where the line changes on the plastic at both ends. I don't really know much about how to execute the lighting, but I'd be willing to help and/or take on the fence design to follow the contour. In my mind, it would affix to the front lip of the plastic ramp. First step would be to remove the ramp and trace the curve - not sure how fun that is to do (I'd probably build a cardboard template and trace onto it with the ramp installed).
Quoted from harryhoudini:How about a matching static gate over the ramp entrance? Since Tim's isn't available anymore could be a nice accompaniment.
@Geteos is your man for the new static gate: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/108#post-4886785
Quoted from Agent_Hero:That would work, but would it be better for sight lines to have it along the outside of that ramp? I like your drawing just for it being longer. One section doesn't give much of a fenced-in appearance.
From first glance, the issue is the vertical bend in the plastic ramp. If you look closely, you'll see a nice level section on the curve and at either end there is a vertical rise. My idea would be to run the fence the entire length between the two vertical rises in the plastic lip. I don't know about on the backside of the ramp as space may be restrictive (I'll have to look closer).
Quoted from Agent_Hero:That would work, but would it be better for sight lines to have it along the outside of that ramp? I like your drawing just for it being longer. One section doesn't give much of a fenced-in appearance.
Okay, after looking more closely, the fence would definitely have to be affixed to the inside of the ramp due to spacing constraints, and it could run to between the two portions of the ramp where the lip waves/elevates.
Big question is if I or someone else designs it and is able to produce it, is anyone going to be willing to pay for it? For this type of item, I would assume a selling price of at or above $100.
Quoted from Geteos:I modeled up a revised thinner version removing the EL-wire portion and replacing it with piano wire, but keeping the 4 warning lights and the two lights in the base. I set it up to print over night but forgot to check on it this morning. I'll have a look when I get home from work this afternoon.
My idea right now is to wire up the blue/yellow warning lights to the T-Rex shot and then hook up the two base lights to either the pop bumpers or into the Electric Fence mode light. What would people prefer?
Wrapping the fence along the entire back section might be a bit tricky as I don't think there are a lot of places to anchor it. Although EL wire along the whole back section would look pretty neat. That would be quite the $$$ mod though. I think sub $100 mods are a lot more palpable for most people.
I'm going to work on the back fence version after I get a couple of other projects knocked out. I already know how I will anchor it, will need to figure out how best to print (will need to be in pieces that assemble together), and also thinking through the blue & amber indicator lighting (I assume 3mm LEDs, but not sure how best to connect them or have them interact). Since it is in back of everything, the EL lighted cables might be well suited.
Quoted from Geteos:Cool yea I saw that your working on a getaway supercharger chaser with the assignable led strips. I’ve got that project on my list too lol, parts are sitting waiting for install.
I’m using 3mm LEDs for the warning lights and 5mm for the base. To keep a thin profile I think 3mm are the max.
EL needs 12V DC so it’s a bit trickier getting it tapped in and interactive, otherwise I would’ve just hooked it into the GI. I feel EL makes it look more “electric.” I originally planned to tap the bumper lights and have the wires flash to match them. I think I figured out the wiring (12v zener diode + resistor) to make that work. The tricky part is making it plug and play. My current version requires some soldering on the back end.
How were you going to light the upper blue/amber lights? Most of what I find in 3mm pre wired (save a ton of time) are 12V. I can easily tap them into a 12V source for power, but thought they could possibly interact someway with the game. Alternatively, if there is a way to wire them to where they are always on, but alternately flash then that would be cools along with the EL wire attached to one of the pops (not sure which).
For your connectors, can you not use alligator clips for a non-soldering option (I typically use the Matrix ones from Comet)?
Idea for mounting the fence is rather simple. Would design a base in sections (similar to what you have done), but print with a slot on the back that fits snuggly over the front ridge of the plastic ramp. That would give it vertical support, then would just use clear mounting tape below the ridge to adhere the backside of the fence base to the front side of the clear ramp (would not even be noticeable from just about every vantage point).
Quoted from Geteos:Right now I solder 2 leds in series along with a resistor (forgot its rating) and tap into the 6.3v 555 insert bulb for electric fence mode. It flashes when the mode is up next and stays lit when you’re in the mode.
Thinking about it, it might make more sense to tie those 3mm warning lights into the T. rex shot and use the base lights to flash with pops or electric fence mode.
If I keep the EL wire it also could serve as an indicator of electric fence mode or could be lit all the time. I haven’t figured out the wiring to keep something lit and have it flash. I’m guessing I’d need some sort of relay to get this kind of function. Arduino or Tiny could do something like this for sure but then the barrier to entry becomes higher.
I definitely think the electrical setup is the most challenging for an electric gate mode. Although I obviously haven't done anything with the model yet, but in my head I don't see anything that can't be overcome.
The day has finally come . . . my new JP paint job is finished.
I love the way it came out, and it really screams "Come play
me,
but watch out!"
IMG_7503.JPGIMG_7504.JPGIMG_7505.JPGIMG_7507.JPGQuoted from harryhoudini:WOAH... crazy. Now you need to heat up your backboard plastic and bend it up (lol, pet peeve.. mine has been hanging down forever)
The sign is bowed in the middle for effect which may be giving a false appearance as the backboard plastic is perfectly flat (if I'm understanding correctly what you are referring to).
Quoted from harryhoudini:The black banner... for effect? Meaning it's supposed to be that way?
Yes, it bows out in the center which helps the orange light behind it diffuse more (otherwise you can see the individual LEDs).
Quoted from J-Freeze:Looks good!
I feel like the backbox needs some yellow, maybe where there
would normally be T-moulding.
It would match the getaway next to it.
Funny, I’ve been thinking about removing what I have on the Getaway.
Quoted from winteriscoming:An argument could be made for a side-blade art with fencing to give the fencing effect and have it be outside the ramp. A die cut decal could also potentially go along the back board to carry on the visual.
As someone who (seldom) sells a rather expensive mod and doesn't do it as a main source of income (i.e. I don't HAVE to sell any), I would say people are willing to pay what a mod is worth. For me it's all about making what I want, and then sometimes making it available for others at a price that makes it worth it to me. If no one wants to buy, I don't really care.
Pinball is an expensive hobby, and high quality, well-integrated mods can reasonably command high prices.
As a 3D printing hobbyist, I've come to love it as a means of designing and making things into reality, but I wonder if the nature of the fencing, with its thin posts would be better served being made from metal. As thin as I'd want the posts to be to look right, I'm wondering if strikes from an airball would take them out pretty easily. Perhaps even thin metal fencing would have that issue.
Yeah, your blade art is a good idea (except I would never replace the mirror blades I have). Been thinking about around the ramp the last couple of days, and it may be over the top. I think it could be executed, but a speeding bouncing ball with a direct hit to a post or even to the wiring between them might just be the end of it.
Similar to you, making mods is not about selling them for me. I started developing mods, decals, etc. a couple of years ago when I purchased my first pin (Getaway). Originally, I designed a few things for myself, others saw them, liked and wanted to buy them. I found the people in the forum to be so supportive and helpful, I was glad to use my skills to give back a little. For me, it is just a hobby, and I try to be very fair with the things I make and sell. There are a couple of exceptions where I just don't like making them (e.g. plastics and target decals come to mind), so I do price those a little higher to avoid having to make so many of them.
BTW, of course I don't know you, but I get the sense that you may have some struggles with your T-Rex. It is an awesome mod, but I wonder if you (or anyone for that matter) really wants to put the time and effort into producing enough to fulfill the demand you will have. At some point (happens to me occasionally) the effort it takes to produce pinball mods can detract from the fun of pinball.
Quoted from winteriscoming:I guess that's pinball for you, but I went to play JP for the first time in forever, and 50 amp fuse blew, flippers were unresponsive and actually for some reason the flipper buttons were activating the raptor pit rod... and one of the main power fuse clips broke during my investigation. Who knows when I'll have time to fix this.
That really sucks, and is a bummer! This hobby can be very frustrating at times.
Oh, I like where this is headed! Definitely needs to be illuminated using the wiring that is already there, IMO. I would probably do some sort of insert then backlight it, but others are much more adept at electronics than I am.
Quoted from Geteos:I could print the base out of grey PLA"
Or maybe a marble PLA? I've used 3D solutech for projects and really like how it came out.
https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B075DZ6XGY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3
Quoted from JohnJN:Can we just all agree that after this awesome T-rex sign thing, someone does up 3D printed Gennaro on the toilet mod to put next to our ball-eating trex?
[quoted image]
Oh, make it happen: https://www.shapify.me
Quoted from winteriscoming:I have some of that marble filament, but I think it will be too light for this application. I was thinking flat gray would be the way to go unless they've got a marble filament that's gray with white specks.
The 3D Solutech marble is more on the gray side than white.
IMG_2150.JPGQuoted from Geteos:I have a third project on the go to replace the launcher flat plastic cover (the purple/yellow gun piece). I printed out v1 yesterday. Hopefully I’ll have it wired up this weekend. I think it’s a small cool looking mod.
Funny . . . I've had this game for a couple of months and just now realized that piece was supposed to be the top view of a gun. In looking at it, it would be fairly easy to create the honeycomb as part of the print with layer printing as long as you kept the object fairly two-dimensional. This way below the honeycomb could be yellow and the barrel gray/black or whatever color you are doing it. Now you have me wanting to tinker, but I'll wait to see what you come up with.
Quoted from weasel671:Does anybody know where this wire goes? It came unsoldered. It's on the left side of the inside of the cabinet just to the right of the flipper board and is connected to a fuse holder. The other side is wired down by the left coin return. Please help!!
[quoted image]
Trying to help, but I don't know that I have that (unless I'm looking in the wrong place).
IMG_2154.JPGIMG_2155.JPGIMG_2156.JPGI was thinking more of the top slide being rectangular with just the barrel at the point being round. Anyway, looking forward to seeing what you have developed.
Update: I just took a closer look at the plastic, and I think you are right in that a yellow cylinder inside the gun top slide would look the coolest. You could definitely print in two parts (inner cylinder yellow and slide in silver or black - or whatever). Doing it this way would require a decal for the honeycomb pattern (I would use a clear waterslide decal or regular decal that covered the entire barrel to make the yellows match.
Quoted from Geteos:V2 of the T. rex box printed in marble. Same depth as the original box to hide the flasher. Still need to figure out mounting the spot and other bulb. I’ll probably convert the other bulb into 5mm leds which will plug into the leads of the old bulb to keep it plug and play.
I have to pick up some decal paper to print the 3 stickers. Probably won’t happen till Tuesday when I’m back at work and can use the colour laser printer. Let me know what you guys think!
[quoted image][quoted image]
That looks very nice. I do think it needs a top on it to carry out the thickness appearance, but this will pose some challenges on how to print (maybe just a piece that glues on). I love the marble!
Quoted from winteriscoming:To top circle seems to be proportionally too large, compared to what's in the movie. Unless you're wanting to put some legible info in there, I'd recommend going smaller.
If you are going to put a decal there, I would suggest making it a common size that you can purchase a circle cutter or punch for instead of something odd.
Also, is the T-Rex insert circle 1" (right size for a starburst insert?)
Quoted from winteriscoming:Q4 that drives the raptor pit on the PPB board had shorted. This was blowing the main 50v fuse which disables flippers and some. Something about the fault allowed flipper buttons to activate the raptor pit, I guess with some lower voltage. I'm not going to take the time to diagnose further. I'm up and running again.
Excellent!
Quoted from jorro:Ok, whatever happens next i'm not admitting to my wife that she's right that i am a little colorblind
She says the signs on JP are dark green behind the logo??
You see black also right?
[quoted image]
Looks to be a different shade when compared to the black of the rectangle with the dino name in it. I would say it is a deep green.
Awhile back I designed some 3D printed pop bumper caps for Getaway, and have sold several sets. Got me thinking about JP, as I'm not a huge fan of the current ones it has even though the amber matches the theme. Anyway, here are the first results. I kept the tick marks on the cap which are in classic Williams style, but I think I’m going to get rid of them for this pin (just have the black dino on top). They do take 3 hours each to print, so thus far I've only done one to see what it looked like (also gives a good side-by-side comparison to the OEM caps).
Anyway, I sell them for $25 for the set of 3 which includes shipping to the US (will quote shipping for outside US), so PM me if interested. They match perfectly to my yellow Titan rings, and I like the soft glow they produce. I can also do custom designs if you have something in mind. BTW, due to heat, you must use LEDs in your pops if you install these caps.
IMG_2199.JPGIMG_2200.JPGIMG_2180.JPGIMG_2182.JPGIMG_2186.JPGIMG_2189.JPG
Quoted from woody24:Couple years ago I bought an enamel pin set. The island color does seem to be a dark green. Came out a little lighter with the flash.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This raises the question if the outline and circle background are supposed to be orange instead of red (or is that just the camera)?
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Women see color better than men. It's probably dark green.
Scientifically, they have better cones while we have better rods.
Quoted from harryhoudini:One coat of gloss before I start working on the lifting and missing decals.
[quoted image]
That is looking very nice.
Quoted from Geteos:My internet has been down since yesterday so I’ve had a lot of time to work on my mods. I’ve got the T. rex stand all figured out. I made a custom insert with 4 red LEDs that replaces the T. rex light. It’s plug and play with the stock wiring. Just have to print the decals and I think I’m done!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Did you just drill out the rivets on the existing box to reuse the light sockets?
Quoted from Geteos:Put in all the mods just now, I am really happy with how everything came out. I think the scale of everything works really nicely now. I couldn’t get the EL to work the way I wanted it to so I went with yellow LEDs and thin wire instead. The gun is tied into the GI because I realized that it would be pretty difficult to swing the playfield up if it was connected to the gun.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice, and well done.
Well, it was too late to edit my old post regarding my pop bumper caps (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/124#post-5001956), so I apologize for the duplicate info. However, I've finalized the design, and I think they came out great. Maybe they are not for everyone, but I did want to offer them to others who might be interested.
I sell the set of 3 for $25 which includes shipping to the US (will quote shipping for outside US), so PM me if interested. I can also do custom designs and different colors if you have something in mind. BTW, due to heat, you must use LEDs in your pops if you install these caps.
IMG_2209.JPGIMG_2208.JPGIMG_2215.JPGIMG_2216.JPGIMG_2223.JPGIMG_2222.JPG
Quoted from harryhoudini:Has anyone found the ramp flap available premade anywhere?
ForceFlow suggested to call/email pinbits.com to see if they can help.
I've been replacing several of my LEDs from the previous owner's selection, and one that has made the biggest visual difference to me are the blues. I typically color match my LEDs to the inserts they go in, but the deep blue was really bugging me with the light blue/cyan colored circles around the inserts. I replaced all of the blue LEDs with Comet natural white LEDs, and now the blue inserts illuminate a light blue color that better matches the artwork.
Natural White (after)
f50a915c362f88f33447724a978a711b621a9f63.jpg
I just finished two upgrades to my JP that both had an immediately noticeable difference, and I highly encourage everyone to do them if you have not already.
1) Changed the pop bumper spoons to the Williams style (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-921). I know others have said this, which is why I did it. I rebuilt my pops not too long ago on my Getaway, and wow what a difference. When I got my JP, I was disappointed at how sluggish and unresponsive they were compared to my Williams machine. Anyway, I just now replaced the 3 pop spoons with the Williams type, and now the pops are much more lively than before. My gaps already looked good, so all I did was put the new spoons in which were noticeably more flexible and clean the contacts with a dollar bill.
2) Replace the 3 flipper grommets (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5105-00). Another thing I was surprised by was the range that the flipper on my JP had verses my Getaway - they had almost twice the rotation. Again, someone here mentioned replacing the grommets to someone awhile back here in the thread, so since I was ordering stuff I decided to get them. I removed the old ones which were visibly worn, installed the new ones on all three flipper brackets, then I lowered the playfield and was surprised! The two bottom flippers where sticking up about 1/2" on one side and 3/4" on the other. I readjusted the two flippers, and now their range is much more reasonable. Funny thing is that right off the bat I was making shots with ease that I previously struggled to make (the loop past the 3 pops was much easier, and I hit the raptor pit 3 times in a row from the right flipper).
Anyway, a little maintenance goes a long way in making things more enjoyable.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Oddly, mine does not have the spacer at all and I have no problems with the ramp.
Ditto here.
Quoted from woody24:Actually, I don't think anything is supposed to be holding the rail up. On mine and all the ones I've seen, there's been nothing there. The only thing that touches is that ball on the underside on top of the pop bumper.
Hard to tell from original flyer, but doesn’t look like anything is there. https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1343&picno=3211&zoom=1
Funny in that there are clear pop covers instead of amber, and also a white light on one of the scoops instead of yellow (probably forgot the cover). Pic also shows a white captive ball.
I need some help with where a flasher wire goes, please. The back right flasher that comes up through the playfield stopped working and I see that the black w/ yellow stripe wire is not connected. Can someone please tell/show me where I need to solder? Please see center of my pic for flasher I am referring to, and you can also see the disconnected wire.
FE1486BD-0481-4321-85AE-EEC623D52684.jpegFor the flasher right next to the eject shield, I have exactly what you show (photo is hiding the second black/yellow wire).
For the flasher where I have an issue, it looks like I have an oval hole where you have a circle one. Also, my wire colors are different on that same flasher verses yours. You have 2 orange and 2 black/brown while I have 2 black/brown and one black/yellow. Now I'm really confused.
Does anyone else have my situation?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Do you have a black/yellow going to the long lamp PCB that you can see in my last photo?
I will have to check tomorrow, as I'm calling it a night. I'll report back when I have a chance to take a look.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Do you have a black/yellow going to the long lamp PCB that you can see in my last photo?
Yes, I do.
79CEE326-3A51-426A-B580-5D50D086D896.jpegJust took a closer look at the loose wire, the surrounding area, and the manual, and I'm still at a loss. Any additional help from anyone regarding how to wire the flasher given my situation is greatly appreciated.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/126#post-5038081
For the two of you who have posted photos (thank you), you both have a long double orange going to that flasher, while I have a 6" single black/yellow. Now I am questioning myself wondering if that flasher has ever worked since I've owned the pin (I just upgraded flasher bulbs is why I noticed). So, if I have to resort to plan B and rewire, can someone tell/show me where the two oranges connect on their other end so that I can?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Anyone replaced the rubber and plastic on the front of the t-rex? I am trying to find a suitable match and I don't really want to randomly go buying stuff on amazon.[quoted image]
I think someone suggested rubber from an innertube. Could either buy a cheap new tube at Walmart or bike store for a couple of bucks.
Quoted from vec-tor:Note: all relay A/C circuitry, Brights/Flashers are all orange wires for voltage...
If you cannot find the "rogue" orange wire then I would attach the "jumper wire, black-yellow wire"
to one of the orange wires of the nearby Brights/Flasher lamp sockets.
Better yet, change the black-yellow wire to orange and attach...;( less confusing ).
I'll give this a try and report back. If I fry my pin, I'm going to put 100% of the blame on you!
Quoted from vec-tor:Note: all relay A/C circuitry, Brights/Flashers are all orange wires for voltage...
If you cannot find the "rogue" orange wire then I would attach the "jumper wire, black-yellow wire"
to one of the orange wires of the nearby Brights/Flasher lamp sockets.
Better yet, change the black-yellow wire to orange and attach...;( less confusing ).
Well, I soldered onto lead of flasher just below where orange wires were connected, and I'm back in business. After looking at things closely and seeing where my wire would reach, this had to be where it was originally. Thank you to everyone for your help with this. I know it is just one flasher, but my OCD just wouldn't let it go.
UPDATE: 1 BALL REMAINING (2 ARE SOLD)
I have 3 extra Pinball Life Powerballs/Navi-Balls/Rolling Stones (https://www.pinballlife.com/powerballnavi-ballrolling-stone.html) that came with the box of goodies when I bought my Jurassic Park. These are used as a replacement for the silver ball in the dinosaur egg chute. I've had them sitting in a storage box for the last couple of months, but figure that I will never use them. Normal price with shipping from Pinball Life is around $30. I will offer them for $24 each including US shipping (will ship outside US but will need to add shipping).
Please PM if interested, and the first 3 to commit get the balls.
FYI, for $2 more I will include one of my custom egg target decals for the white square target in the egg chute (pictured below)
IMG_2273.JPGIMG_2274.JPG
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Put that ball in the tumbler for a bit to make it really look like a dino egg...
They already have a "spottiness" to them which helps the egg appearance. Would be funny if could actually shape them like an egg and they still worked.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:All this talk about eggs has got me thinking. I have a cheap Mattel Raptor I got from Target glued to a piece of plastic and mounted over the raptor pit. It is one of the raptors that has "jumping" action with springs in it's legs. I am tempted to drill a small l shaped hole in the plastic above it, add a piece of stiff wire to the raptor leg, and make it so that the raptor physically moves up and down when the ball hits the kickback. Has anyone done anything like this?
Sounds fun - would love to see it!
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Not as nice as mine though...[quoted image]
Is this the Pinball Life ball or something different?
I have one dino egg ball left. Whoever is first to commit gets it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/127#post-5040679
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Pinball Life. Put it in a tumbler. How many times do I have to say the same thing?
Sorry dude, I did not see you explicitly state that it was the Pinball Life version of the ball (I know there are others brands/types out there). I get the tumbler part, just wanted to make sure it was done with the same exact type of ball.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Problem solved, it was the new EOS switch. I guess it either had some residual material on the contact from manufacturing or the switch didn't have quite enough tension to stay closed at rest. I ohmed out the EOS switch and it was clearly not making contact. I cleaned it and readjusted it and everything is back to normal.
Thanks guys!
Awesome. Now get back to playing some 
I have one white dino egg ball left for sale, and can ship today. Please PM if interested.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/127#post-5040679
Quoted from fosaisu:Has anyone found good LED replacements to upgrade the look of the “shoot the T-Rex when lit” lamp and the T-R-E-X indicator lamps on the apron? I’m thinking in these modern times there must be an upgrade to the old “bulb condom” look.
Couple of options from Comet:
Non-ghosting white or clear domed red wedge: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm
Non-ghosting red faceted wedge: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd3528-ng.htm
Quoted from harryhoudini:How about a new sticker that has clear/red inserts? Then just have to use shorty bulbs without domes to fit under. I can probably get that sticker made pretty easily.
This is quite doable if there is actually a market for it. I'd be happy to make them for $10 each. I haven't looked or tried, but is there enough clearance for a non-domed LED? I think even that might project above the apron surface.
You almost have to do decals for both sides, as you will never completely match the coloring or style.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Shit, I just realized I could use the new sticker and just put some sort of translucent plastic under the lights. Boom, stock but updated.
Not a bad idea. You could actually just print 4 red circles on photo paper, cut them out, then adhere to underside of the decal.
Also, there is room enough for more than one design to suit different tastes. I like where you are going with yours.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Not low enough by default, but two easy solutions. One, flex bayonet bulbs, easy enough. Or replacement sockets if you want to go clean. Should be a really easy swap if someone prints the stickers.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I like the flex idea, maybe I’ll get some time tomorrow or early in the week to actually print and fit the art correctly and test a flex bulb.
Before I go to too much effort, other than the couple of us, is there any interest in this? For me, having to remember to remove the bottom bulb every time I lift the playfield (I’ve broken one, scratched top of my backbox, etc.) is enough of a reason to figure out a flush mount solution.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ah so close. I am missing 2 parts, both arriving from PBL on Monday. In the meantime fixing a few little things, tidying up, re-connecting a few cut wires, etc. Got the geteos mods installed..might mod them a bit Have a hankering for some flickering flame lights on the gate.[quoted image]
I'd like to try to play a game with the flippers in those positions - ha!
So here is what I've come up with for alternate apron art. These are designed to be used with flush LED's (HH's idea of bending the sockets and installing flex bulbs is best). The first pic is not great as I just used a flashlight shining in from under the side to show how the light shines through, so light was not direct which caused shadows. The other pic is with a red flex which I think looks best, although the camera doesn’t do the deep red justice.
Anyway, these would be printed on photo printer with ultra gloss paper, coated with gloss laminate, and have an adhesive backing. I would sell them for $20 a set including postage to US (outside of US shipping would need to be calculated on a per-order basis). If you would like me to include 4 x non-ghosting 1 SMD super bright flex bulbs, then the price including US shipping is $32 (in addition to including bulbs, I will have to ship in a box vs. standard envelope which is why price is higher.
PM me with any questions or if you are interested in purchasing.
IMG_2305.JPG
9D84F4C5-D04E-49F7-8939-E6A1F91EC382.jpeg
IMG_2306.JPGIMG_2307.JPG
Quoted from harryhoudini:Dang that was quick! Looks great! I wish I had a nice color printer, I have to send that stuff out to get printed.
You interested in an alternate design if I send it to you? Welcome to print it for anyone who wants it and I'll happily pay for a set. I am wanting to keep mine looking more like stock.
Btw.. I'm keeping this image so I can copy your game! Actually, I can't since some of that stuff isn't available anymore, but I was wondering where to put the palm trees and keep it looking clean. Your game looks really nice.
Thanks for the compliments. I would happily work with an alternate design. Start a PM with me and we can work things out.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Here's a bit of a remake of the original. I'm going to work on one other and see what I like. If anyone is interested I can do the other side.[quoted image]
I like it - looks great! I think you need to do the other side.
I think that most would want the imagery to come exclusively from the original movie.
However, you could still do something nice with photorealistic art.
I was thinking about trying a caution tape version to match my paint scheme and other coin door decal I made.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Pinball added [quoted image]
I'm liking it. Even better would be a bloody goat in mouth of T-Rex (maybe with goat leg flying around).
Quoted from Wharhed:If you start selling these, I'd like a set please. It will match my wood instruction signs nicely
I need to test print and make any necessary changes, then they will definitely be for sale: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/129#post-5049319
BTW: What do your wood instruction signs look like (I'm not familiar)?
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Question. Will stern lollipop rails fit jp?
Don't know if helpful, but I found this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-lollipop-side-rails-do-they-do-segade
Okay JP Owners, with the ideas and help of @harryhoudini, we have four different apron art designs available for purchase. These decals are designed to be used with flush LED's with no real modifications required (you just bend the 4 sockets outward then install flex bulbs). For installation examples, please reference #6401 & #6418 in above.
The decals are printed ultra gloss photo paper, coated with gloss laminate, and have an adhesive backing.
- Set of 2 decals (left and right) | $20 including postage to US
- Set of 2 decals (left and right) + 4 x red non-ghosting 1 SMD super bright flex bulbs | $30 including postage to US
- Add a second set of decals to your order | +$15
(I will ship outside of US, but will need to quote per order)
Shipping is higher with the LED's since I must ship in a box instead of mailing in a standard envelope. However, you can always order your own flex bulbs direct from Comet Pinball.
PM me with any questions or if you are interested in purchasing, and please note which version(s) you are interested it.
Caution Tape
JP Apron Art - Caution Tape.jpg
Sunset
JP Apron Art - Sunset.jpg
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Can you shoot more pics of it lit up?
Yes, but I need to order some bulbs, so it will be a few days before I can take pics with everything lit. Also, for whatever reason, the camera doesn't do the red color and spread of the light justice, but I'll do my best.
If just having the top bulb (the "T") lit is good enough for your purposes, I can take pics of that. Just let me know which version(s) of the decals you are interested in seeing.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Id like to see them all lit if possible. No rush. Caution Tape version
I just ordered LEDs and should have them before the end of the week. I'll post pics when I get them.
Is this similar to the GI Maestro which is known to work and fully tested on DE games?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/116#post-4953748
Quoted from fosaisu:And another question ... Does anyone have a part number for the topper reflection bar? Couldn't find it in the manual or with a quick search at Marco.
[quoted image]
You may have to custom make one. If it comes to that let me know and I can provide measurements.
Quoted from LoserKid_Pinball:So I acquired my Jurassic Park a couple of weeks back. I've been able to fix most of everything that was broken on it but I'm stuck with my lighting.
Most of my lighting works but a couple of spots don't. I've replaced bulbs but that hasn't done anything for me. Some lights are out in the center modes (Extra ball, and Stampede). Also a couple of my Trex padlock lights on the apron won't light up.
Could it just be a fuse? My only other thoughts would be reflow solder on the circuit board or start tracing wires.
If other lights in the same column and/or row on the lighting matrix work then it is not a fuse. Most likely either a loose wire, a bad socket, or a rusty socket. I would recommend the following:
DO ALL OF THIS WITH THE PIN TURNED OFF!
1) Make sure no wires have come loose from the sockets not lighting on the underside of the playfield. If not, proceed, if so then solder them back on
2) On the topside, remove the bulb and take a small piece of steel wool, insert it into the socket, and rotate back and forth several times to clean the socket lead
3) Make sure you are using a bulb that works in another socket, and try it in the socket not working. If does not work, remove, rotate it 180", and re-insert (some LEDs only work when inserted in correct orientation)
pasted_image (resized).pngSeeing how there is recent conversation about the decal on the front of the T-Rex pit, I noticed that mine had quite a bit of wear on it. Seems like this decal takes a lot of abuse, so I figured others may need/want to replace theirs. I'm making the decal available for $5 which includes US postage (will quote outside US postage on a per order basis). Decal is printed with 6 color photo printer on OEM ultra gloss photo paper, coated with clear gloss vinyl, and full adhesive backing.
Please PM me if interested, and I'll provide payment information.
Quoted from harryhoudini:So close I can taste it.
tenor.gifQuoted from fosaisu:And another question ... Does anyone have a part number for the topper reflection bar? Couldn't find it in the manual or with a quick search at Marco.
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Any luck?
Quoted from fosaisu:Nothing yet!
Do you want measurements so you can make your own?
Quoted from Soapman:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/82#post-4161300
fosaisu hope this helps.
That's great on the bar measurements. Only other helpful info would be placement & size of holes.
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Fort Worth, TX
London, ON