I was posting sometime ago about the MPU LED BLANK going off after some plays: someone suggested a heat issue increasing resistance. Well, there are some resistors that are obviously hot, and some ICs are hotter than others. i opened the back and put a ventilator in front of is. Issue is gone. looks like in these hot days (35c° in here..) there's a ton of head building up in there.
So i installed two 8cm, 2700rpm fans usb powered, sucking air fron the top holes and projecting down inside. 10 minutes work and 20 euro.
After a brief test looks like it's enough to keep temperature down. Will see how it develops.
i have no cooked areas on boards or cooked connectors or components, so apparently there is no major fault, but looks like it was just too hot inside with no proper ventilation.

Anyone have a guess as why all of the sudden both my flippers and my launcher gun stopped working?. I was having issues with the bottom right flipper and was working around the flipper board. Now nothing is working ‍
any ideas would be appreciated

Yikes!!!! we had the exact same issue happen other day we checked all the fuses..ok, coils also ok, checked wiring also ok.

When press the flippers the red light comes on the flipper board so we know power going to it.

Yep same thing here, The red lights on the flipper board are showing it’s detecting the buttons being pressed but nothing is happening. I noticed that i was able to control the T-Rex moving left and right with the flippers, so something is working. Just not getting anything else

About to buy a new flipper board but don’t want to spend $150 without knowing for sure

Hey JP owners, my T-rex was acting up during diagnostics after powering on and wouldn't pick up the ball during play. While troubleshooting, I found that one of the jaw assembly pieces broke, specifically part #535-6640-00. This is the part that connects the coil plunger to the jaw, which makes the jaw move up and down. It looks like there is supposed to be a small "tab" at the top of the link to "hook" into the jaw frame, but that's the part that broke on mine. I've included a photo of my broken link, and a stock photo of a new link with a more pronounced "tab".

So my question is, does the link just "hook" into the jaw without any other way to secure it? It just sort of rests in a hole in the jaw frame? I just want to make sure that I didn't lose any other small parts or screws when the link broke and fell.

Link.png

Stock Link.jpg

Did you check the fuse underneath the playfield as well?

Where under the playfield is that located?

Yes have checked all fuse under the playfield, backbox and side boards with no luck.

If hold the flipper button in there is small movements in flippers, but when try diagnostic the flippers do not registor.

The tab just hooks into the hole on the jaw. There is nothing else to it.

I can't remember. It's kind of hidden amongst all the crap underneath.. I believe it is in one of the far ends of the playfield. It's a normal size glass fuse though.

Playfield lights work? could be:
-some blown fuses
-power board issues
-if also lights don't work could be involved playfield board
-flippers relate to flipper board
-power board issues are more likely than multiple other components failing at the same time...

So I've got a new one. Last time I used the machine it was working fine. It sat in the place it has been for a while and the other day when I turned it on. This is what I found. Playfield lights are on, no sound and the DMD is all weird looking. I tried turning it on and off a few times but nothing changed.

Then I left it on while I went exploring to see I could see something noticeably wrong. Then when I looked back I saw the second picture, no DMD. (Playfield lights are still working).

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What are you MPU leds doing?

Power supply ever been rebuilt?

The MPU LEDs are all off. And I've never rebuilt the power supply, so I'm assuming it's never been done before.

Sounds like that might be the next step?

I went through that: i ended up buying a new power board because diagnosing all the issue on the old one was way beyond my skills.

Yep at least get your meter out and test output.

If rebuilding that board is outside your skill level there are some folks that do mail in service. I use Eugene Mosh.

NerdImmersion had a similar issue with a JP I acquired, turned out to be a PIA chip locking up on the motherboard, I replaced it and it immediately started working. You need a logic probe to test and some soldering skills to fix it though.

This set has small scale vehicles, gate with fencing, and I think some raptors. Vehicles are smaller than hot wheels. Not sure on scale of gate.
Nano Scene Jurassic Park 30th Anniversary Jurassic Gate Diorama w/ Two 1.65" Die-Cast Cars, Toys for Kids and Adults https://a.co/d/7vXOBmu

I have to not buy all the 30th anniversary toys that are out!

I have an issue I thought would be a simple fix. Yeah, right... pinball. Everything works great, except I've got maybe 10-12 dead playfield lamps (all uncontrolled - could be the biggest clue): 2 slings, 2 outlanes below, under PF plastics, etc. What I used to call GI. They don't show up in the lamp matrix nor light up in the lamp test. Tough to find on the schematic, with my eyes. Bulbs are good, of course. I know I must be missing the the obvious!

The "obvious" issue could be a bad/burnt up connector on the CPU board. Check the color of the wires on those lights and then check the backbox for that connector. Start by reseating the connector - that would be the simplest.

A less obvious issue could be that the transistors related to the relay that turns the lights on and off could be bad.

Hi all,

Just wanted to let all you fellow DE JP owners out there know, that I've been building modified rails for certain machines (usually machines that I own or have owned) and my JP is definitely one of them.
If you're looking for a different kind of mod, then check out my store.
https://pinball.avidcreations.com.au

jurassic-park-de-pinball-wavy-shopify-2 (1) (resized).jpg

Oh my! Nice work!

Yeah, thanks. I had tried all the usual suspects: visual signs at connectors, reseated all on PCBs, fuses, etc. The PIA light on the MPU is off. I can't tell from the schematic which transistor would be suspect for the section of affected lamps. If I could that would the next step. BTW, all other uncontrolled lights on PF and topper work fine during test and attract/play modes. It may be a hidden connector under PF so checking that out today. The problem lamps all seem to be fed by solid yellow & white wires, so there are some clues to go on.

It is cool, and I have considered it.

Is this obvious or what? Please note the two sockets in the photo. These and 5 others light up PF plastics, are not controlled and do not currently work. The upper socket is wired with two different colored wires on each terminal (Y and W-Y), while the lower socket has matching colors on each terminal (Y/Y and Y-W/Y-W like all the other socket pairings in this lamp bundle.) I found this while testing each one. Also on the upper socket, both solder connections are loose. At first I thought it was just a sloppy fix and to simply resolder them: it's in a damage-prone zone so close to the PF edge. But then, who would make such an obvious error? It's an easy fix, but I don't want to repeat the error if it is one. Reality check time.

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Occam's razor in action!

I just found the following photos in my DEJP photo archive of the same area. I don't know if this will help you out, but thought I would put it out there for you.

Gord

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That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for posting this!

I'm running the Chad ROM and if I turn off Raptor freeze it also turns off the main ball save, yet the shoot again light still flashes.

Is this right? Or a bug?

I was hoping I could turn off the raptor freeze ballsave but keep the normal ball save.

When I turned the game on a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that there t-rex head didn't move at all (no snapping with jaws, no movements) during startup diagnostics. Then when I initated a game no ball was released from the through. The "vuk" that ejects the ball into the plunger was working though.

I later went to diagnostics and went through the flashers and coils and there was a lot of them not working, the ones named 12 to 22 (slingshots, t-rex, the one that feeds a ball to the vuk at the end of the through etc).

My initial thought was that a fuse had blown but I tested some (not all) in the backbox and all seems to work (see attached, tested mainly the 6 on the power supply). I test for continuity and I removed the fuses when testing.

Do you know were to go next? do I test the fuses wrong?

thankful for tips and/or how to find it on pinside. It "feels" like i common issue.

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Check F5 on the PPB (I think that's the common one that blows) and also the fuse under the playfield. I bet it's one of those two. Don't have my game in front of me tho.

Thanks for the help! I checked all the fuses under the playfield (the flipper board and the small one above the shaker motor) as well as all the fuses in the back box and all seems fine. I removed them and checked for continuity.

Question: can a fuse show connectivity and still be broken? Is there another method to check them. Swap them around I guess (if possible, and not to mix different types of course). I have a basic multimeter that allows for other settings than continuity but limited knowledge in the matter.

Next step is to follow the daisy chain looking for loose wires. Are they chained the same way as they are numbered? Coil 13 goes to flasher 14 and so on? Read somewhere that the lamp and switch matrix are not chained in numerical order.

Assuming this isn't a fuse that is blown you are missing... It sounds like it's Q4 and/or Q5 transistors. Is it safe to have the game turned on? (it's not doing anything weird when on?). Run a coil test and list everything here that isn't working. Include relays that don't "click" when going through the test.

Test Q2-Q5 transistors on the PBB with your multimeter. If you don't know how find a video on Youtube. Do it with the machine off.

If only one of the transistors is out you can pull the transistor off of Q1 and use it as it isn't used in this game, or just be patient and order a new one. Based on what you have posted so far I really think it is a fuse or one of those transistors. But do list everything that isn't working and it will be easier to troubleshoot.

Also, there is a fuse on the UNDERSIDE of the playfield if you missed it. It can be hard to see with all the wires. Its at the very back of the playfield back underneath the mosquito area.

oh! this I didn´t know! Did a quick look yesterday but didn´t see it. Will try harder this evening. Is it a "standard" fuse?

The game is safe to turn on, nothing special happens except that the head don't snap (the rotation sideways are disconected by previous owner, he said that he probably had reattached the motor 180 degrees of (that I have to fix later)) and no ball is released.

the coils and flashers currently not working are 12-21. not sure on 10 and 11, will look/listen closer.

thanks for the help! I was really depressed when this problem suddenly appeared, but your answers got my hopes back!

Edit: the broken parts all share the red power line wire, can it be the culprit (i.e the power wire is disconected/cut somewhere)?
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That's a good clue. Trace that red wire back as far as you can visually for a fault or break. Also check the schematic to see if it leads to that hidden fuse. There is a reason why fuses blow.

This should be easy to troubleshoot since they are all on that same power line. Check that fuse first, it could be connected to that line. I can't remember off the top of my head what it is for. It is a normal glass fuse... a slow blow one I would assume which all pinball parts vendors have but see if its blown first. They can be hard to find at a local store though.

After that check the red wire connection at the board... it may just be loose in a connector. That happens all of the time when moving games. You may just be able to push it in harder on the connector to see if it is working.

There are other tricks to find out where the red wire isn't getting power without a multimeter but start there.

After many trials and tribulations with this DE JP I've got just about everything working. One lone detail is left.

The upper flipper doesn't hold, quick flip and down only. There is no EOS switch to adjust on that flipper. Right flipper works as expected.

I checked the flipper switch and diode on the diode board mounted to the cabinet. Switch is correctly adjusted and diode tests good.

I havent pulled the upper flipper coil diode yet but i don't suspect that.

Any ideas?

Lower voltage winding on the coil. Try swapping a ‘good’ coil and see if the symptom is still there. If it is, could be the lower voltage (holding) transistor.

Skippy2904

The coil is a 2 wire coil. Where is the hold transistor? All boards were gone through by a pro.

Check the fuse and fuse clips on the flipper board on the flipper board on the bottom left of the cabinet.

I have an issue with sound. Keeps cutting out, choppy, silence during both play and attract mode. No consistency. I've been focusing on the sound board: reseated U7, U17, U21, the 4 board connectors, reflowed CN2 pins. Voltages are good. Sounds pass diagnostics tests. Any ideas what else I should be looking for? Thanks for any advice/help.

Reseated both sides of the sound board ribbon cable?

Also, with power off, turn the volume control pot back and forth 20 times or so and try it again.

Yes, reseated both ends of the ribbon cable, several times. Will try the pot, although it a recent replacement. I haven't checked all speaker wire connections but will do that too. Thanks. Still stumped why it passes sound tests.

I was mistaken about the pot being newer: it's original. After repeated turns and power up, there's no sound at all now. Had to disassemble the whole power switch/fuse case to access the pot. Tested 5.5K high side, 3.4 K low side, but after 30 years of duty... ordered a new 10K ohm pot. Meanwhile, wondering what else I should be considering. U7, U17, U21?

I’ve been encountering this same issue. Haven’t had a ton of time to troubleshoot, but as strange as it sounds, when the under playfield switch between the Control Room and Bunker holes is not working (usually a loose wire I have to resolder), the sound works very well. If that is fixed, the sound does not work at all. I even installed the pin sound board and updated the rom to include all the new sounds and music that did not come with the game originally, so it would be amazing to fix it for good to enjoy it! Thanks everyone for any recommendations on how to fix this!

Does anyone know where I can buy the fuse clips for this board and how hard they are to replace? They are broken on my flipper board as well.

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I usually order whatever board parts I can from Digikey because they have a Canadian site and I don’t get nailed with fees, but Marco Specialties or Pinball Life will likely have these.

I’ve finally had some pinball repair time and I still can’t find that hidden fuse. Are there versions where the fuse is relocated?

Attached is my playfield underside, can anyone perhaps circle where the fuse should be?

Did some general overhaul of the wires to the coils with the red wire but nothing seems out of place.

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I moded the tab with a round steel pin. the metal to metal movement grinds the tab off.