Hi All,

Had a JP for a while now but only just started to get into repairs and mods and this forum has been great.

I know there are a lot out there, but none really did it for me so I have created my own Apron card and am happy to share if anyone is interested. I couldn't improve on the rules card so I just made a cool one for the right side of the apron that matches the backbox a little better. Two versions.

Let me know if you want the high res file!

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Nice job on these!

Yeah! looks really nice! Would love these on mine!

Anyone have Tim's moving Gate Mod they are looking to sell? Moving raptor cage?
Hit me up if you are. Thanks jeff

Hello, i'm back with more.. issues. So, my JP has original MPU and sound board, a new XPIN power board and a new PindoraBox playfield board. Finally, the flipper board is stock.
Issue is: usually after some plays i get the flippers not functioning, while music goes on, graphics etc. Also i have the BLANK led on MPU off in that case. If i turn it off and on usually plays fine.. for a while again.

Can anyone help to nail the problem? Thanks!

My new favourite thing.
Comet indicator bulbs!

Absolutely perfect in the lamps above the scoops! I really dislike the white lens of most frosted or even clear LEDs, you lose a lot of the effect.
Also I added a bit of heatshrink tubing to cover the plastic parts so it blends in to the lamp holder.
Just need a blue one for the bunker, comet were out of stock.

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I've never understood covering these lamps as I think they fit with the theme as there reminiscent of the electricity fence power lights in the movie.

Absolutely love how these indicators bulbs light up!

They do look nice!

As I've gone through mine I've found a few boards with bad solder joints and quite a few bad fuse clips, also pretty much every IDC connector is suspect. Might want to pull the flipper board and give it a close look along with maybe swapping connectors to molex type connectors with trifurcon pins.

It's tedious work but is often effective.

I'm in italy and sourcing pinball materials isn't that easy.. by the way i'm not thinking to connectors because it ALWAYS starts fine, and only flippers lock after some matches. Reset, play and usually locks erarlier. like it's something related to "warming up", not totally random like past connector issues.

Maybe connectors are fine. Maybe not.

If your connections aren't really solid, this can cause heat to generate. As heat increases, so does resistance. Just food for thought.

Some playfield components stopped working too and i have a blown fuse on playfield board. F8 i think. This Pindorabox board is giving me some headaches: the relay is often acting weirdly, not switching between voltages and so activating solenoids instead of flashers (and the opposite). "Fixed" it by disabling flashers from the system options. Now this. I think that there's some compatibility issue or quality issue with it, in my case at least.

Im not familiar with the pondorabox.

Hi guys does anyone know where I can get a reproduction of the original Data East topper ?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5391-00

Just installed an amazing speaker panel artwork from Pinball Center, Germany. Also one for my DE Tommy. The artwork is amazing and is silkscreen onto plastic similar to playfield plastics.

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My never ending quest to get Trex to move left and right continues.

So I've repinned and replaced every connection including the relay.

Motor was locked up and has been replaced.

Relay board was replaced.

I'm finding now when I measure each leg of the motor I've got +9vdc on both sides.

Shouldn't only one leg at a time have +9vdc?

I don't know all the things you've tried before you embarked on your quest, so forgive the obvious tips so that they can be elliminated: check game adjustment #45 (left/right enable/disable), and also tried the left & right flipper buttons in "T-rex test." Have you eliminated switch and linkage issues? Did you test the new motor before install and then remove and test the new motor again? Have you read DE Service Bulletin #42 on L-R motor failure?

Game is set to have trex work

In trex test activating the flipper buttons switches the relay but power to the motor remains the same +9vdc to each leg.

Switches good. Linkage only applies to chomp and trex up/down. Both working correctly.

New motor moves with independent power source. Ie 9v battery.

The problem ultimately is that i don't have one leg of the motor at any given time. That's what I don't know how to approach determining the problem

I agree you have a strange phenom. Don't recall this in the 6 years following pinside solid state troubleshooting. Could be due to the L-R motor locking up causing 9VDC circuit problems. I wonder tho, is this unique to DEJP or a general logic issue? If you don't get an answer here, maybe post it in the Tech DMD subforum which reaches a wider audience. I'm really interested to know a solution.

I had a chance to look at page 48 of the manual which shows the L-R motor diagram (top half). The dual +9VDC reading, according to this L-R motor diagram, could be the case depending on certain conditions and which points you're using for test. As a start, I would check connector C12 on the CPU for visual burn and connectivity issues. I would also confirm that the 2 switches are behaving properly and not out of sync anywhere along the travel -- closed at the same time. Also check and rule out the coil diode (unidentified) between the red/brown-violet coil leads.

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I just saw your post about how you replaced that relay. So you know the shaker board controls that motor. May not be your problem, but here's an older post/thread that's at least worth a read, if you haven't seen already.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club?tq=&tu=sataneatscheese

My game was working fine then I went to power it up and everything flashes and “clicks” then the T-Rex chomps his jaws once and just fell. I checked all of the fuses first and found one burnt. I replaced it and it is still doing the same thing. Any idea what I can do next? TIA

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A good starting point might be to find out which fuse it was that failed and what it protects. If you have the manual, page 2 shows the fuse reference chart. (If you don't have it, you can download it from ipdb.org.)

Hey folks, looking at finally getting some cliffys on my DE JP after 2 years of ownership...only to be completely unable to find them anywhere.
Can anybody point me to a store that has them in stock? Ideally it would be for the 3 scoops and the t-rex kickout, but at this point I'll take whatever I can get.
Alternately, are there protectors from any other DE pins of that era (LAH, LW3, SW, R&B, etc) that might also fit?
Thanks!

Contact Cliff directly via his website/email:
https://www.passionforpinball.com/protectors.htm
It's unlikely he'll have them in stock. I asked to be put on a waiting list and prepaid for them. Be patient and check with him every so often. They're worth the wait.

Just beware that if your scoops are really chewed up, you'll want to repair them with kwikwood (or similar) before you put the cliffys on. If you don't, they'll bend out of shape quickly and won't lie flat. Ask me how I know

I had pulled the shaker motor board and tested components and inspected everything and found nothing wrong. I may go ahead and do this again. It's really aggravating. I tend to walk away here and there and circle back to it. Current cleaning up a black knight. Will circle back around next week on the DEJP

Start by checking voltage at power supply. Also what activity are you getting on the MPU leds?

I admire your determination. I disabled my L-R motor due to the high failure rate and costly replacement. I have no spare. Where did you find yours, BTW?

Marco's carries it.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/041-5025-00

Hmm... This installed near the t-rex?

Hot Wheels JP Jeep with Ian Malcolm in the back:
https://creations.mattel.com/products/hot-wheels-jurassic-park-jeep-wrangler-dr-ian-malcolm-hrl27

Does anyone have a picture of the plunger coil wiring? My buddy doesn’t know if he wired it correctly.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Page 35 (31) of the manual my friend.

Wish they had all 3 people, wtf! Laura Dern too expensive now that shes been in star wars? lol

This is a video. FYI..I’m a noob at the electronics on the older machines

Hi!

Two of my play field lamps don´t work, Electric fence and the T-rex head in the center of the playfield. I´ve tested the lamps so they are not broken.

But whats the next step? the wires seems to be attached (kinda hard to see on the electric fence though (it´s one of those where you pull the lamp socket out of a "board" with several similar lamps)).

The diodes? Test if there is a broken wire?
Any ideas are highly appreciated!
/J

Those lamp boards can get finnicky over time - they can develop spots where even though the bulb is fully "twisted in", the conductive pad has worn away enough that the lamp doesn't light. I would start by inspecting those traces (they're pretty fat) and slowly turning the bulb holder to see if it will light up. Also try switching the black plastic bulb holders around - I've had situations where a bulb holder won't work in one spot but will work in another.

The metal where the black bulb holder makes connection to the trace has some spring to it. If that has flattened and isn't making good contact, you can bend up the connector a bit.

If that doesn't work, look for a broken wire.

Unlikely to be a diode issue because the entire row or column on the switch matrix would likely be out - and those two aren't on the same row or column.
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thanks for the long and informative reply!
I´ll check the connections and the wires. Good to know that I can probably drop the diode plan!

/J

I hope it helps!

I also came across this post which has some pics that may help:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/165#post-7699402
(different game & manufacturer but same idea)

Does anyone have a LEDOCD or Afterglow in their game?

If I add one the lamp matrix works fine,( so they're plugged in properly) but the switch matrix goes nuts. Random switches activate, the ball is fired into play.
It's unplayable.

If I unplug the ledocd it plays fine.

I'm thinking it's some sort of interference related to what the ledocd board does to the lamp signals.

Sorry friend it should work, you have something else weird going on.

Hi!

regarding Rom updates, the local pinball parts vendor seems to have three different rom updates:

-Game rom
5,13
6,0
The 6,0 is the one where Stampede is not the first mode and that the play again/instadrain lamp at the bottom lights right?

-Display rom
5,10
6,0.
Does anybody knows whats in these? Anyting worth getting? I have the standard dmd but it has a horrible dmd buzz, so I plan to replace it.

-Sound rom
U7
U17
U21
(and a chip with all three)
whats in this? I will probably get the pinsound so I guess it´s irrelevant but for curiosity.

Anyone has any insight on this?
/J

Game code is a must. I cant speak for the other stuff.

yeah! I think so as well.

Hi All,

Needing some help with the wiring of the pop bumper bulbs please.

Each pop bulb holder has 2 thin black wires that go to a terminal strip.

I put tiny labels on each wire, a number corresponding to the terminal strip, like 7 for the top lug on one wire and 1 on the other, but hastily pulling on the bulb holders I stripped off the labels

It shows in the manual that there are 4 thumper bumpers, which is clearly wrong, and a picture of 4 bulbs, but I can't find anywhere in the manual that shows the wiring of the bulbs to the terminal strip next to the diverter coil.

Could someone please either point me in the direction in the manual where it shows the wiring, or please post a hand drawn pic of the strip with say 'Top Pop LH to Lug 7 (7 being the top) and RH to lug 1?

I also noticed a separate solder tag underneath the terminal strip.

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers!

sorry for wasting anyone's time.....found it on the lamp matrix chart, the fact the terminal strip isn't shown threw me off.

If you update the CPU to 6.0 then you must also update the Display to 6.0.

oh, I didn´t know that, thanks.

/J

Pro-tip. Make sure you're in the right mind while moving your JP. Hah. Couple weekends ago I moved my JP from our old house to the new. I kept the keys next to the machine. We wrapped it up and moved it to the new house. A couple days later, I decided it was time to set it up. I cut off the shrink wrap and removed the towels. I went to go grab the keys. The keys... Where did I put the keys?

I looked in all the boxes that we moved that day. Nothing. I came to the conclusion that I must have left them in the old house. Not there either. Knowing that they must be in the new house, I started going through all the boxes again. Multiple times. Still not found.

Nearly a week later my wife arrives home and heads to bed, leaving her purse on the floor next to the front door. Then it hit me. I vaugley remember telling her to put the keys in her purse so that I wouldn't lose them. Sure enough, there they were. She's been carrying around the JP keys for nearly 2 weeks.

I think I was so busy getting everything packed that I told her to hold onto the keys and as soon as I handed them over, I'd already forgot about them.

woody24: Your story is why I always keep spare locksets on hand ($7 PBR). A few years ago when I got my DEJP delivered, the keys were nowhere to be found. Buyer had forgotten to include them for the shipper. He said he would send them to me. I was chomping at the bit to get it up and running; no way was I going to sit around and wait for them. So, in less than one minute, I drilled out the old lock and replaced with one I had on hand. Instant anxiety relief. Keep a few spares in stock.

For those looking to elevate the Raptor Pit with a lifelike Velociraptor, the Dino Dream set is simply awesome. These models are directly crafted using the molds from the movie animatronics, making them the most accurate model available. In my opinion, they're a better option than other toys with moveable joints that can come off as too toyish. They are on the pricier side at $150 a set, but for me, it's a reasonable price to elevate the world under the glass.

Here is a link for them: https://lanatime-shop.com/products/dd001

Here is a review for them on youtube:

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