Pardon the soccer comment, I’ll check. Thanks!

There is a switch at the entrance of the underground chute.

possibly looking at getting this great game back in the collection.

What are must have/best mods for the game?

Also I read on a marketplace add that this game can use the pinsound board and a reorchestration for it - I would love get more feedback on this if anyone cares to share

Thanks

This is a must have for the game. The John Williams score and callouts from the movie really elevate the game.

I'd also suggest the color DMD - it is very good on this title.

Beyond that, it's up to personal taste. The Loop Combo scoop signs are quite good. You can get upgraded Papo Pteranodons. There are a few gate mods - even a discontinued one that opens and closes. I'd also suggest using a white captive ball for the egg/amber shot. Many people add a barbasol shaving cream can somewhere as well.

Well colorDMD is a must for me on any game so would definitely do that.

Regarding the pinsound I am guessing you really need new speakers to go with it to not just the stock ones. What about the neo board and all the other stuff they sell? BTW their stuff is pricey ... ouch.

Thanks

When I bought mine, the prior owner had put in this flipper fidelity kit:
https://flipperfidelity.com/complete-replacement-speaker-system-for-data-east-v3b/
I don't have a before/after but I can say it sounded good and probably worth it over using the stock speakers.

You'll be fine with the Neo board over the plus if you want to save $70 and don't need any of the additional features the Plus adds.

You may need the DE Power Booster. You can just order it and use it (no harm) or you can measure your 12V first and see if you need it.
https://www.pinsound.org/shop/en/41-data-east-power-booster.html#/pinball-jurassic_park_data_east_
Mine didn't have it/need it, but I have read that many do.

Ahh ok so its a Neo board or the plus - you don't need both. Got it now.

Appreciate that info

Is the redone file available for public download still?

Should there be any play n the left and right movement. When the T-Rex gets to the center, you can move him slightly left or right. Seems like there is a set screw to hold him tight. If so, where?

Should there be any play n the left and right movement. When the T-Rex gets to the center, you can move him slightly left or right. Seems like there is a set screw to hold him tight. If so, where?

Yes. This one is very popular:
https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/234-jp-ost-endprodukt/

Are you having issues with it picking up the ball?

I recommend flipping through the image gallery for this thread. You can get a look at all the visual mods and see which suit you.

Art blades, signs, things to go in front of the scoop lights, t-rex sign, goats, dinos, shaving cream can, t-rex upgrades, decals, armor, etc.

Trying to help a friend with his jp. The blu/yel wire for the right bottom flipper came off coil and looks like it shorted on the org/purple wire on other side of coil. Blew fuse on flipper board. Replaced fuse and it locked on when flipper button pressed. Flipper board was really hacked so replaced with a new rottendog. Replaced diode and soldered wire back on. Plugged in new board and haven’t started a game but flipper buttons only light up on new board for left flipper and upper flipper. Board lights up for right flipper when eos switch is opened and closed. Seems like the led for the right bottom flipper on the flipper board turned on right away at game startup also. Any direction would be appreciated

Those Rottendog flipper boards have lots of issues. I was pulling my hair out when my new RD board didn't solve the issue. Turns out it had the wrong transistor on it.

I'd suggest reviewing this thread (I think there are others, too) for known issues.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rottendog-flp023-data-east-flipper-board-issue

Anyone know of another video or tutorial? I have to swap out the 5v motor and am sort of stumped at how to get it apart.

Also, something i've noticed but haven't been able to confirm in any game play videos, the upper flipper doesn't hold, just flips and returns. is that normal?

hi!

I have a major noise issues with mine, major dmd bizz and a smaller speaker noise. I got one of them speaker hum reducers from Canada and there was a "static burst" burst when I turned on my JP. ChanceJ told me that I probably need to rebuild my power supply. So i tested my +12V and -12V to the sound board and got like 8 and 14 (cant remeber if the plus was 8 or vice versa). (the 5V was like 4,8). Can this be the culprit? Do I need a new power supply card or can I replace any components?

and finally, can this help solve my dmd buzz?

Haven't experienced this exactly but I did have some odd sound issues thay werent consistent. I did find my power board CN1?(whichever is the 9 pin molex) connector was slightly charred. Replaced the header and connector (along with a crap ton of other idc connectors) and the sound issue is gone. The power board is always suspect if it hasn't been rebuilt

Got some pointers from the JP Facebook group. Moving trex down allowed access to the collar screw in the back. Moved fairly smooth from there. Took a bit to sort wiring to be able to disconnect the unit from the playfield.

thanks for the reply, will check my connectors to see if anyone looks charred.

There is a newer file on Pinsound that that is built off of this one and has more callouts and sounds. It is incredible. I've linked to it on here a couple times but can be found easily on Pinsound... It just doesn't have as many downloads so people skip over it I think.

Anyone have any memory of removing the 5v left/right motor from Trex? I am attempting to separate the top half with the up/down motor from the bottom half with left/right to access one of the screws that attaches the 5v motor/gearbox.

I removed the e-clip that secures the switch post and the set screw holding the shaft but it doesn't want to separate.

Any input?

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Updated my ROM to 6.0 from Pinballrom.com. Obviously, it resets all of the audits and settings. I cannot find the setting in the menu to change it to free play for home use. Also, any other mandatory settings I need to change? TIA

The DE audits/adjustments are confusing because you need to get into the extended section. Hopefully the below helps.

The other adjustment to change is 29 - reset HSTD Every - that stops your high scores from resetting.

The rest are personal/difficulty preference but are pretty good at stock with the ChadH code.

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I have a text file with my notes for the wonky buttons and a list of adjustments I sometimes use:

.

Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.
When in a menu, set the green in or out to go to next or previous menu item when black is pressed.
Some higher menu items are not shown unless you go backwards through the list, or 'extend list' is selected.
Start button is used to change the value, then hit next to save.

.

adjustment 49 attract music = off
adjustment 4 game awards = credit -> Extra ball -> special
adjustment 46 trex eat balls = yes
adjustment 6 limit extra balls 3 -> 0
adjustment 41 tournament => EXPO (resets audits)
adjustment 30 Free Play

Thanks!! What about the match graphics at the end of a game? I have it set to free play now and it doesn’t show the graphic “the T-Rex is loose”. Is there another adjustment for that?

No setting that I have seen. It seems the match is disabled in free play.

Adj.13 Match Percent – Set Match percent from 00% to 10% or OFF. At 00% the match display occurs at the end of the game but never awards a credit.

That worked! Added to my notes-

Adjustment 13 Match percent off-> 00%

I have nearly a full set of JP plastics + protectors available for sale. Includes a few used pieces as well.

$100. Buyer plays shipping or I can bring to allentown.

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Does anyone know how to tell the difference between a original topper and the Marco's remake?

Originals have sharp well defined T-REX teeth, the remakes have blocky teeth. Also the originals have more dark details in the raised areas, the remakes are more just flat gray in the raised areas. There were some side by side pics posted a few years ago and it's easy to tell the difference if you look for those details.
That being said, I am happy with the my remake topper.

Posting this here before I list on ebay. Anyone NEEEEED it? Would do for $60 shipped. Looks like there's a couple on ebay for $75+shipping.

Comes with a certificate of authenticity.

PM/DM if interested.

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Hi everyone - wondering if the control room switch is prone to fail/require replacement?

Have had the game a few years now and all of a sudden the switch almost never activates when a ball goes into the ‘A - control room’ hole. Pressing the switch I can barely hear the click but I thought I’d check with you all as I’ve never had to replace a switch before (in the event this is a bigger issue that I’ve never encountered).

Thanks for your help and advice.

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Did you put the machine in switch test to see if the switch registers? If it registers, then you need to bend the switch actuator a bit to make it register more consistently when the ball goes over it.

One common issue with that is that the ball actually jumps OVER the switch. The ball goes into the scoop and when it hits the bottom, with the angle of the subway, it bounces over the switch. My machine actually came with a piece of rubber that wont allow the ball to bounce, so I never had that issue before. It was only until I was helping someone else with their JP that I realized what was happening.

So if the switch is actually working when you test it, try to put something at the bottom of the hole that will stop the bounce of the ball.

Yes. This is part one of the answer (as long as the switch can be activated by hand).

Part 2 is that your machine is missing the recommendation from this service bulletin of putting silicone around the switch to reduce the likelihood of the diode breaking.

https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb43.pdf

Essentially, you need to put goop around the switch to insulate it. It should look like it has chewing gum around it when you’re done.

Thanks all -- the switch has stopped responding during gameplay (whereas it was at least randomly intermittent before), switch test isn't registering so I'll get a new switch and diode from pinball life to install.

Ive never seen a DE JP with a piece of rubber in the control room hole, do you have a pic for reference?

In terms of putting silicone around the switch -- do you have a reference pic for this? I came across a post where someone said they used a hot-glue gun to seal the solder on the switch posts - would that work?

Check out the photos from the following URL for reference.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/193#post-7228986

Explanation for using silicone around the diode

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/194#post-7229431

Gord

Yes, I'd just get a new switch. It is one of the most important switches on the machine. Pinball Life has them for cheap.

Thanks!

outta curiosity -- 'Silicone Rubber Compound' -- would a few dabs from a glue gun work or is there something in particular I should be using?

Do not use a glue gun. It will not provide the shock absorbancy you need and will likely create other problems you don't want. Available everywhere: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Henkel-Waterproof-Sealant-2-7-fl-oz-Gel-Silicone-Multipurpose-Adhesive/5004266381

The "pinball room" will soon be the "baby's room." Don't worry, not selling it. Also, no offers, not selling it. Moving to the garage until I can get someone to help me move it to my works' office. They said I could store it here. Will also probably get more play, which will be fun.

We were looking for a new house with a basement, but cannot afford anything in that range right now. So we're holding off.

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Woody - not sure how long you will have to store it, but if it has batteries, don't forget to take them out beforehand.

Have fun with the baby - they will grow up fast.

Thanks!

Already had done the Ram update the second I got it. Was't about to have cheap batteries ruin it for me. But good thought. I did remember to pull the balls out. Not sure if I'm going to keep up upright or take the legs off just yet. Wanted to make sure it was as protected as possible for now.

I have a collection of plastics - mostly new, some used. Open to offers, happy to ship.

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Why can't it be the pinball room AND the baby's room?

That's very forward thinking of you @mr_tantrum, however @woody24's wife likely doesn't agree.

Gord

For sale NOS TOPPER !! 300,-

location austria

could ship worldwide
shipping to usa about 80,-
shipping to europe about 30,-

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I keep reminding her that the crib and the pinball machine can both fit. She doesn't think they would.