Have you checked all fuses? Especially F5 on power board. Weird that raptor pit is firing with flippers otherwise I'd say it's a fuse for certain.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Data_East_Jurassic_Park_Tech_Chart.pdf

I had a loose wire/connection on one of my poos causing me grief. TRex would work intermittently, balls would sometimes load to shooter lane, sometimes not.

I traced it down to a common colored wire (in my case red) and went from there.

Good luck!

Well, well, well…..this is the F5 fuse…I would think it’s burnt…of course I don’t have any replacements. All of the other fuses look ok. Can I order these with Pinball Life?

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Yes any pinball supplier will have those, if you don't have any fuses at all then I'd order one of their variety packs and some extra random sizes. Make sure you have all fuses sizes for any machines you have listed in that link I sent. Those slow blow fuses can often not look bad at all and be toast. Double check it with your multimeter.

ScoobaDoo - since you’re ordering fuses and have not figured what what blew it( or them if you’re still troubleshooting), consider ordering circuit breakers of various sizes, too. They really come in handy when troubleshooting. There’s fewer things more irritating than running out of fuses while troubleshooting.

nearest auto parts or department store

Ace Hardware is the only place I've ever been able to find mine locally. If they have them it's limited sizes and they are expensive. I'm not in a huge market tho.

true, slow blow are less common

Glad you found it! Or at least part of the issue.

Great idea!! I found the fuses on Marco’s site but can’t find the circuit breakers. Any other name I should look under?

I don't think any of the big guys carry them.

https://www.thepinballscientist.com/product/resettable-fuse-circuit-breakers-for-troubleshooting/24

These are what I use all the time. Solder each lug to the ends of a blown fuse. (Make sure the fuse is really blown!) They work great and are forever reusable.

https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Breakers-Protector-AC125-250V-Waterproof/dp/B08PKN3TJD/ref=sr_1_15

Game is once again functional. Found the problem on the PS.
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My front legs are bottomed out.
My back legs are fully extended.
My playfield sits at 6.4 degrees and it’s a float-fest.
Is there any adjustments to how the playfield sits in the cabinet that can be done? Maybe increase the playfield angle inside the cabinet?

You are trying to get a steeper angle? You can get longer get longer leg leveling bolts for the rear.

Yea I want steeper angle.
But the leg leveling bolts in the rear are long as they are… even longer one’s feels like it would make for a very unstable pin…
I measured all 4 legs and they are equal lengths.

Well the longer levelers are the solution I go with. You can get longer legs or do some crazy stuff
but your problem can be solved for a few bucks. You could put some floor protectors or something under the rear legs too. You don't need to move it up much to make a difference. Take out any nuts that are below the front legs too.

Adjusting how the playfield sits in the cabinet... for sure don't do that .

Just chiming in again on this. I also downloaded the most recent update. This is so damn good man. I gotta believe this is top 3 pinsound packages available, if not the best. This is absolutely worth buying a Pinsound for I'd you don't have one (and Pinsound should get rid of your hum/buzz too). And also recommend either installing a subwoofer in the cabinet or splicing off and adding one underneath. It truly makes the gameplay experience better. If this was the standard sound track this game would be considered one of the all time greats imo.

I'm hearing a few call outs that could use a little volume tweaking, but that's getting picky and into absolute perfection. I've got a notepad by the game and will compile them for a bit. I'll look into doing it myself too and share with you. Ive figured out how to adjust altsound files on my virtual cabinet but not in pinsound yet.

F5 fuse blown again…where do I go from here?!?!?

How much have you played it since it blew before? Did you lift the playfield or open backbox recently before it blew again? What was going on right before it blew?

I replaced the fuse, then turned it on, only to find out that the new fuse didn’t solve the problem. Checked the new fuse and saw it was blown also….

I posted on FB group too...

Ordered this toy, ripped the gate out, hacked it up. Even has lights (i inserted a red film that I had to make it look more like fire) Fits perfect!

https://www.amazon.com/Beast-Kingdom-Jurassic-Park-Multicolor/dp/B08VRCSCR3

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326117231_897641741365605_8575726414018919838_n (resized).jpg

The flames would look cool with some LED flame bulbs behind it.

https://www.amazon.com/Simulated-Decorative-Flickering-Atmosphere-Halloween/dp/B07F74BZVS/ref=sr_1_2

Maybe somebody makes smaller, pinball ones that flicker.

Hi, i have a JP for about 6 months now, working fine.
but now since few days i have some issues, i always play 5 ball's.
and sometimes when i lost my ball (between 2 flippers), the game doesn't always realize it.
Then al the kickouts are going on to locate the ball, after the Dino is try to eat the ball, then af few seconds the kickouts are going again and it stay in that loop.
only thing i can do is reset.
What can this be?

I'd start with trough switch or diode on trough switch.

Going into the service menu, eject all the balls and in the service menu again go to the switch test and actuate the trough units one by one.

Hi,
i did some research, and i figured out that switch 58 always actief is, it's the brachiarsuarus target that seems to be a little stuck.
could that be a reason that the game is a little confused sometimes when i loose the ball between the flippers?
cause the 6 ball switches are working fine

Seems like that would be a little surprising, but adjusting a switch is one of the easier issues to solve, so definitely start by fixing that and see if the issue goes away.

Hello everyone
To improve the problem of my pinball bat (sometimes lose power) I made the change at the EOS, I soldered together the wires from the left side where there is only one pinball bat and now I have more problems on the right side, I have to make the change both on the right and on the left?
Thank you

There is a technical service bulletin regarding this issue. The EOS switches on your game must be replaced with #500-5821-00 in order to fix this issue. I have first hand experience with this resolving this same issue.

I have already made this change and made the change also on the flipper Board as indicated by SB 54 Data East And I didn't solve the problem. Now I want to try to exclude the EOS, the change must be made on both flipper bat? Thanks

What are you guys using for a keychain for the coindoor for DE JP? Anyone have any links to buy?

Can't go wrong with a JP prop badge from Amazon.

Hello Everyone,

I'm checking to see if there is enough interest to run another Data East opto board batch for 2023.

Details:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/interest-check-data-east-ball-trough-opto-board-

Thanks.

I would definitely grab one.

I’m in for one.

Edit: Tried the “data east speaker noice-ideas for a cure”-device and it didn’t help. ChanceKJ suspected that I need to do a power rebuild. Does anybody knows if this so will help with dmd buzz?

Nope. The ChanceKJ device works very well. On a friends game we floated the sound board and used the humbucker, and the (non DMD) noise is gone.

Using an external power supply to the sound board eliminates the noise too, but neither solutions eliminate the DMD noise. I'd use the humbucker + floating the board over an external power supply, because another power supply feels like such a drastic measure. But in some cases it may be the only cure.

Bottom Line: IMO the only way to eliminate DMD noise is to replace the DMD.

Thanks for the reply!

Yeah, I’ve read a lot about the speaker hum but there seems to be very little info of how to fix dmd hum. I was hoping there was a cheaper way than to replace it.

/J

So I'm sure it has been covered previously, but I just can't seem to find the thread. What is the adjustment to be made with T-Rex when he won't bend down far enough to pick up the ball? Diagnostics at the start of the game seem to indicate he is moving fine, but when the time comes, the ball always slips out because he never bends down completely. He moves fine when testing manually in Diagnostics as well. Thanks for your help!

This is the Bible for the t-rex:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/039A_SB.pdf

Go into switch test and see what it tells you (this is different than the diagnostics on power-up). Report findings back here if you need help.

That said, based on reading this thread for a few years, if he isn't going down all the way it seems to be because the cable that runs through the t-rex has become frayed. One example here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/179#post-6485382

I had the same thing happening. I replaced the spring on the bottom.

Thanks for your thought/suggestions on this, guys! I'll check these.

Can someone tell me what wire gives power to the circled lights in the attached image from the backbox. I have a break somewhere and forgot what wire I needed to replace.

20230316_160603 (resized).jpg

Looks like I found the break in the wire.

Hey JP Fans
I am having a problem with my Jurassic Park Data East T-Rex. He bends down to eat the ball, swallows it, then lowers then chomps. What’s causes the chomps, is it a switch?
Just put teeth on and without the head cover, works fine. With the teeth, no so much. Any suggestions? It was working fine with the teeth, now it’s off again.
Weird…

So is he eating the ball successfully? After coming back up he SHOULD do a few chomps - I think it is to show him "chewing"

Here's the full guide for the t-rex. Super helpful in troubleshooting any issues.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/039A_SB.pdf

If its still not working, a video may help us troubleshoot.

My biggest questions what makes the T-Rex chomp? Is it a switch or in the chip?

In order for it to pick up the ball, it needs to find the center and down switches. This fires and holds the solenoid.

In order for it to swallow the ball, it needs to find the up switch. This releases the solenoid.

I think it can chomp (open and close quickly - fire/release solenoid) in any up position.

The chip/program is doing it based on those switches being activated.

The switch test / diagnostics for the t-Rex can help give you more troubleshooting info.

He eats the ball-check
He raises up and swallows-check
No Chomp-
Lowers Again - tries to eat again-greedy SOB, stays there as if the phasers got him

Or

He eats the ball-check
Raises up-check
Chomps-check
Swallows-check
Then goes down again-fail
Comes back up

Or

He eats the ball-check
Raises up-check
Chomps-check
Swallows-check

All good

If anything he’s inconsistent

Which board would this be, I can check the soccer joints

Did you have to change the wiring in any way when you installed these or did you just chain the wires to the lights under the playfield?

There are two relay boards under the playfield that control the up/down and left/right movement. Those are known for having cold solder joints. That could be your problem. Boards look like this:

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