Well done for digging deeper! I only saw on the 1st page of the manual that F5 is 5V (as also posted by GRB1959 )... Will dig deeper when at home... there seems to be an error on that 1st page in that case. I'm guessing that 34v from F5 also goes to T-Rex motors? I think my F5 fuse blew when it was testing T-Rex, moving it side to side... it was sluggish I noticed, and then things got worse in the games behaviour generally... After that I found that F5 was blown.

Mine had something similar, but it was white.

I haven't seen it on any other pin before or since. Why was this done? Prevent the diode from snapping off?

I just confirmed in my actual hard copy JP manual what vec-tor previously posted and I also took a photo of the page from the manual. The online DE JP soft copy manual can be somewhat tricky to interpret with the fold out landscape orientation of some of the schematic pages so hopefully this photo provides the required confirmation.

Gord

JP_Page57_Power_Supply_Board (resized).JPG

This was done to prevent shock damage "to the points where the diode is formed to absorb impact," quoting DEJP service bulletin #43 titled "Failure of Switch #37 Center Scoop." After replacing the diode, they recommend applying a silicone rubber compound. It does work. I have seen this on a lot of new machines.

Got it. Thanks for the details!

It does indeed! Thanks a lot! So 4A it is!

Looking for a little help. I want to replace my left/right trex motor. I lowered the Rex and took off the collar. Immediately, I found two screws securing two of the corners. For the life of me, I can’t find the other two. Do you have to completely remove the Rex from the game?

It's been a while since I re-did mine (I actually pulled the motor apart, clean and lubed it, and it works OK, a little grindy, but ok) buy I had to take out the whole trex. I believe you have to at minimum take off the collar and the back of the trex from the top. I think there's only one screw at the back of the head and one on each side of the collar. From the bottom you have to remove the subway and unseet the wires of course, but after that I don't remember it being that complicated.
Good luck. I remember being a bit worried about damaging something, but it was actually quite durable. The plastics on the top are the most fragile. And the unit is so heavy you definitely don't want to drop it from any distance. It took a bit, but I was surprised how serviceable it was.

Really appreciate the reply, thanks.

I just saw that Titan has one in stock... expensive tho

Hi All,
My DE Jurassic Park has started to give me trouble. It's near mint, and has never had issues before.

Lately, when I power it up, the G.I.s come on, I hear a click like I always have before the diagnostics start, but then nothing...no DMD, no diagnostics. Eventually it will come back to life, but when it does, It makes that roaring sound much more frequently than it used to, and that sound will interrupt other sounds/music. Almost as if the audio sequence is starting from the beginning each time.

It has a Rottendog MPU and the 6.0 ROM.

Has anyone see/heard of similar symptoms?

I'm including pics of the original power supply. (Speak to me slowly and distinctly with no big words as I'm, mainly an EM guy! lol)
Thanks

Frot (resized).jpgback (resized).jpg

C2 is an extremely common point of failure on these power supply boards, and it looks as though D2-D3 diodes might have greenish corrosion from leaking electrolyte from a blown C2.

Hard to tell from the picture, and the usual failure of C2 is pretty obvious, but if I have the board out of the game I'll always replace an original C2, and probably re-cap the entire board (depending upon if I have the capacitors in stock).

Thanks, I picked up replacement caps, D2-D3 tested good, however D1 was open in both directions, at least while in circuit.

Fixed (I hope)

I replaced C1,2,3 & 4 along with D1 (It did test good out of circuit)

I did not see any evidence of a leaked cap, maybe after 29 years, one just kicked the bucket.

Thanks again. $5.00 in parts and a trip to the electronics store, which is always a blast.

Also...

I'm sure been asked and answered many times. What pf angel seems to give the best (subjective) game play. Opinions?

Thx

Hi
Also check and change the fuse holder clips. Known to lose tension. Your f4 looks bad but I am sure there more. Check them on all pcbs. Even the flipper pcb under the playfield in the lower left of the cabinet
Mike

Thanks

Almost every game is 6.5 degrees. Start there. If it plays too slow for you, raise the back legs some more.

I have mine at 6,5 and it’s way too slow.
Floaty and all in all pretty horrible feeling.
Needs probably 7,5 to come alive.

Thanks, I think mine's currently around 7, I recently increased the angle, it's playing much better than before.

Did a mod! That plastic gate just wasn't cutting it...

20221215_131601 (resized).jpg

20221215_132517 (resized).jpg

20221215_132536 (resized).jpg

Looks nice!

Side by side definitely shows the value.

very nice! consider a red indicator lamp for the bulbs up top. Or one thing I was going to try on mine is to get a couple "fire" lights from comet and use a red indicator cover.

These are red LED, I do want to get the clear amber ones someone is selling here for these two and the T-Rex light, I think they will look better!

Hi!

I have a horrible dmd buzz on mine. Is there a (easy) cure for this or do I have to get a new dmd?

/J

Not sure about another cure but when I put in a colordmd that buzz went away!

yeah, but i was hoping for an easier (i.e cheaper) solution.

This is normal for certain DMD brands. I know Vishay brand is like this, even new ones.

Pinball life carries a Data East buzz/hum eliminator. Not sure if that would solve the problem and I've never tried it. It's still $70 or so. I just picked up a Lethal Weapon 3 and the buzz on it is insane.

Is it the inte from white north retro? It only fix the speaker hum, not the dmd hum.

Looks like they have a couple different ones... but yeah, not sure it will do anything for the dmd hum. I think one of the reasons the colordmd fixes the hum is because it moves the dmd off of the 12v and onto 5v. So maybe smoothing that 12v still could take care of the hum? It's been awhile since I put the colordmd in my Jurassic Park so I can't remember for certain how the power source was affected... but I have one one the way for my Lethal Weapon which has horrible buzz as well and I'll see how it's all wired.

Neither has to do with DMD buzzing. I mentioned previously, certain brands make a buzzing noise. Some animations seem louder than others even. Vishay I believe is the worst, even when new

Hi all, Need some advice.

I have had a right lower flipper issue for a long time now (years) and it stops me playing the game. I've rebuilt the flipper twice in the time I've had it and it still has the issue. After some time of playing the flipper stops working and you can hear it hum when flipper pressed but no movement. I can move the plunger through the coil manually and it seems to move freely. I've tested the voltage and it is as expected with initial high and low holding voltage.

I suspected that maybe the original flipper board was kaput and decided to get a replacement FLP023 from Ebay US. I replaced the board and when I switched the machine on the right flipper repeatedly activated in quick succession until the S/B fuse popped on the new board.

I am not sure what this could be. Is this activating problem an issue on the old board, but it isn't actually flipping but heating the coil until it stops working? Or is it the new board that's wrong? Or if the new board showing up another issue on the system - like the EOS switch not actually working as expected?

I have some new EOS switches and I didn't replace them on the rebuilds, only coils, pawls, field plastic, stop ends, stop rubbers - should I try to do that or is the issue somewhere else on the machine?

Stu

gunnermac Since you've already replaced the flipper board, it's unlikely the following DE service bulletin no. 54 is a solution. But I thought it was worth a post in case the replacement flipper board is a misfit. It worked for me.

https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

Thanks fixintoplay, I do suspect the EOS may appear to be fine but actually isn't and hence the new board shows the issue up clearer in that it repeatedly activates. I'll replace over the Xmas break and see how it goes.
Stu

Did you configure the new flipper board correctly for the title?

Hi Maniac, yes I did that thanks.

I've just replaced the EOS and checked the voltages on that coil. When I go into Diagnostics and the coil gets activated it gets a constant 4volts? This is wrong and should only hold that when the flipper button is pressed and the EOS is open - what could be the issue? The EOS is closed, so by rights if it was getting constant power it should be 20volts to get the high power so it just doesn't make sense that it only has 4. Could it be the flipper leaf switch gone and constantly open?

Could you give me some pointers on how to check why its got 4 volts?

Stu

thanks zigzag, I'll try that. Also, after I'd put all of the stuff away and closed it up I realised that I should have out the old board back in and see what reading was on the coil - doh!

I'll have another go tomorrow

The FLP023 board has had occasional known issues for many years. Basically, some (most?) of them are built incorrectly.

Check this thread for more info. In my case it always incorrect Q1/Q2/Q3 transistors.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rottendog-flp023-data-east-flipper-board-issue#post-5733222

For those who have a Pinsound, I just uploaded a new sound package:

https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/392-ost22-by-system-j/

Sweet! thanks for your work! I'll check it out this weekend for sure!!!!

Beer money sent! Well done! I didnt think Enproduckts work needed any improvement...wow, this is rad! Can't wait to get to System Failure.

Volume levels seem good to me so far. Maybe one of the Raptor call outs and one of the Tri Ball call outs when Tri Ball first starts seemed a little low but I'll play with it more this weekend. Feels like there are dinosaurs roaming my game room now!

Thank you sir! And thanks for the feedback, I'll attempt to find and adjust those. Do you remember the quote and the switch was hit with the raptor call out? I think I know what you're talking about on the beginning of the triball and it's a tricky one.
Haha, re: the dinosaurs roaming. It was pretty exciting when I got the stampede working. The samples are all taken from the original scene too. It took a lot of playing around to getting it sounding right. It's really satisfying to throw it into the pops. I also took note of the types of dinosaur the targets are (the dmd flashes the name) and researched the proper sounds. I also tried to keep the trex and raptor sfx to thier respective shots. I knew I wanted the trex to sound really big, but I'm pretty happy how the raptor kickback scream worked out too. Anyways, really glad you like it so far.
Edit: Oh, fyi, tamper your expectations for System Failure. I've been playing around with a few different options (including a guns and roses (welcome to the jungle of course), which has turned into a different sound package I'll be uploading soon). ...anyways, none of them were convicingly that much better than Endprodukts though, so I believe I reverted it back to his for the OST22 version--but if you get to a second system failure it *might* be different. I'm messing around on some different options and probably will release it on a new package (with a bunch of other changes I've been thinking of doing), and/or update the OST22 as well. The most frustrating thing I've found so far is that the board always seems to play the same track for it for some reason. Always the last file in the folder. So I have 4 different versions right now but if I had them all in, it only plays one. So for now, the first one is Endprodukts ver. still.

Ha, okay. Enproduckts is still exciting. My machine is set up really fast and hard. Ill never see a 2nd system failure probably!

For tri-ball call out it's when it first starts and the guy shouts. "TRI-BAAAAAAALLLLLLL". I can barely hear it over the other audio. It's one of the best call outs too imo. I haven't noticed the Raptor one again but I haven't had a chance to play it much.

Fixed and uploaded a new version (1.0.2). Thanks for pointing out the triball volume. When I looked at the folder I realized I must've got sidetracked. I had 3 different version of the same file, all of them inadequate. I've learned some new skill since then that helped to fix it--the callout was part of a 'jingle' that was integrated with music and sfx. Anyways, I think you should like it now.
If the pinsound doesn't recognize the new file it'll do it's thing ('checking sound files') after a reset. You can also change the name of the main folder before loading it.

Awesome, thanks. Playing it last night I noticed there must be more than one version because I did hear it at a good volume once.

For anyone else loading this package. I also upgraded to the new pinsound firmware. I noticed that to get the zip to load properly I had to let it go through it saying decompression failed or somwthing like that. I didn't touch it and then it tried again on its own then worked.

I’ve been having my DE JP for about a year now. It was bought from The Pinball Company fully restored. I haven’t had any problems with it until now. All 6 balls are loaded in the trough. When you start a new game, the the ball doesn’t eject into the shooter lane. The gun also doesn’t fire. And last, the flippers are not engaging when I press the buttons. Oddly enough, the raptor pit fires with the flipper buttons. I have uploaded some videos….any idea what the hell is going on?

Do things work normally in the diagnostics tests?

Switch tests show the correct switch being pressed?

Correct coil fires in the coil test, etc?

the service buttons work like this-
Pressing Black with the green button 'in' starts diagnostics.
Pressing Black with the green button 'out' starts Audits and Adjustments.
When in a menu, set the green in or out to go to next or previous menu item when black is pressed.
Some higher menu items are not shown unless you go backwards through the list, or 'extend list' is selected.
Start button is used to change the value, then hit next to save.

Yes…just went through the diagnostics. All Switches are working. T-Rex is not working. Not all coils are firing either.