Non-Ghosting is not required on any Data East pin, I use Comet Pinball exclusively.

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Interesting...when I received the pin, I had a ton of ghosting. Perhaps they weren't comets. Then I switched to comet non-ghosting and they worked great.

I’ve used regular comet leds since I started in the hobby and have had zero problems with ghosting on any of my DE games.

As for flashers, I usually just leave them incandescent, especially on this game. When I bought my JP it had led flashers and was a bit much. Especially when you have a multiball ready.

Cheap leds.

Dustwel - check the switch under the playfield. It may have worked itself loose.

Anyone know what could possibly be going on? My wife was playing and she hit the gate ramp and suddenly the game went quiet and the screen went blank. Now after restarting the game, the GI lights turn on and nothing else happens. The display info doesn't even appear. I recently swapped out the code for 6.0 and the display chip as well. It was working for a while until today. I tried swapping back to the old display and game code, but still nothing.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Sounds like a power supply failure. Have a meter to test your 5v, 12v and -12v? Can you post a picture of it?

5 volt stopped working my guess.

Here's a pic of the power board. I apologize, but do you know where I can test the the voltage on the board? I'm a little electronic inept.

I do have a pinsound and color dmd hooked up as well.

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Test at the top right.

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Thank you!! Not sure if this was how I was suppose to test this...feel free to face palm if I did this wrong.

The the -12 read -16 on the meter. The +12v and +5v read 0 when testing it like this (which I could very well be testing it wrong). I did this with the machine off, did I need to do it with it on?
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With the machine on, the +12v seems to still read 0 and the +5v reads 10mV (not sure why my multimeter only reads in mV)

Looks like you tested it correctly. 5v is generated off the 12v. It looks like F1 and F2 are not blown, but still worth testing continuity with a meter to be sure they are not blown.

Try to reseat CN1. As you unplug it, does the connector housing or the board connector look like it has burnt/tarnished pins?

If pins look ok, reseating the connector may work.

Here’s a few shots of the control room scoop from the underside. Nothing is standing out to me as looking wrong (I’m a novice at these older games), perhaps someone else can spot a problem?

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Looking at a few issues for a friend and apologies if they are already covered somewhere in the previous 185 pages!

When game is switched on, the skill shot video sometimes works with the T-Rex going across the screen. After a couple of games, it is as if the video has frozen. Sometimes, it will freeze on the skill shot scene with none or some of the T-Rex. Othertimes, usually ball 3, it is stuck on the score. I have some videos, but am technically challenged as to how to post them here! When it is frozen in the upper part of the dmd, you can see the skill shot text at the bottom scrolling through skill shoot, skill shot amount, ball number player number, so some of the video feed is working.
After shooting the ball and hitting some shots, the video will resume.

Anybody had a similar issue? How did you fix it?

Friend has complained of the game resetting and I have had that happen a couple of times. I have checked the power board test points on the power board and have 5.03v, 10.4 (on the +12) and -14.7 (on the -12), though the latter 2 vary up and down. On the mpu board, the 5v TP has 4.93v. RotorDave has told me to replace the caps on C2 and C7 plus look at the Power supply Bridge rectifier, which I am organising to do. I suspect, these might resolve the resets which have been getting more frequent. When the boards are out, I will check the metal back plate in case that is shorting on a board, though I think this is unlikely given the small amount of time I have tested and with the translite out, it is not getting a lot of heat build up.

Any pointers appreciated.

Skippy2904

With power off reseat the big wide ribbon cable at the MPU and the DMD controller board on the back of the speaker panel. Also reseat the small ribbon cable from the DMD to the DMD controller board. Also, likely you need to resolder the 3 pin (middle pin is a key) power connector connector on the DMD controller board.

Unplug CN1 first and look to see if there are any burnt pins. Normal sign is discoloration on the white plastic wire housing or on the white board connector.

Tried checking the pins and reseating CN1 but didn't seem to work. I ordered an xpin power supply replacement, but would still like to figure out what's wrong with this board.

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Can you measure the 5v and 12v again to see if there was a change? Was either F1 or F2 blown?

Have you tried it in switch test? Does it register?

When you pull down on the metal arm with your finger, do you hear a click?

F1 and F2 seem to be good. 12v still showing as dead and the 5v is measuring at 21mV (multimeter only shows in mV for some reason).

21mV (.021 V) is still basically zero.

Since F1 and F2 test good, time to test the bridge rectifier, BR1. Problem is that this part is hard to get out without damaging the board, so care has to be taken removing it.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Bridge_Rectifier_Testing_Procedure

Also, most of the electrolytic capacitors are at the end of life and need to be replaced as well.
5v (C2 & C7), 12v (C3), even 62v (C4)

Actually should read as 5v (C2 & C7), 12v (C1), even 62v (C3)

Thank you for all the help so far!! I'll have to continue tests later as a crying newborn beckons me now. I'll give an update tomorrow. Again, I really appreciate you taking the time to help!!

Dustwel - are the two screws holding the switch tightly? It may be the camera angle, but when the switch actuator is pushed down by the ball, does it hit the white/green wire?

Here is CN1, pin 12. A bit brown. Will have to follow where this goes.

Reseated cables - no real difference. Power to the dmd has been modified with a block connected with screws to attach to the pins! Seems to work.

Skippy2904
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CN1 pin 12 - ground 9VAC.

I would sand on the pin a bit and then see if it temporarily improves the situation. It should, as I just repaired a Tommy on Friday for resets for this same issue.

You'll need to replace the connector and repin the wired connector.
https://www.pinballlife.com/power-supply-transformer-input-connector-rebuild-kit.html

Though, there are multiple electrolytic capacitors that should be replaced as well, as they are at the end of their life and will also cause loss of 5v (C2 & C7), 12v (C3), even 62v (C4).

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I have removed the board and inspected the caps. C7 is actually leaking onto the board! So, ordering some parts to do at least C2 / C7. PS BR tested and seems to be normal.

Do you know where CN1 (12) terminates to ground? Might be that it is not making ground properly?

Thanks

Skippy2904

Hi! got my second pinball ever yesterday when I traded my JD for a JP (working my way down the alphabet I guess). Anyway the right lover flipper seems weaker than the others. Are there an easy way to fix this or do I need to get a flipper rebuild kit? I´ve done some previous repairs on my old JD but I have never dabbled with the flippers.

grateful for any tips or ideas

/Jonas

Don't be scared of flipper rebuilds. They are one of the easier things to do and are very well documented with step-by-step posts and videos.

Take it apart and see what needs replacing. Coil stop? Sleeve? pawl/arm? All of the above?

A good bit of advice someone gave me was if you're going to do one...do at least both on the bottom. Otherwise, you will probably feel like the one that feels fine now...doesn't feel so good after you have one new one

I have seen C3 and C4 leak on random boards, which is why I mentioned to replace them. So you would want to replace them with C2 and C7.

It ties in as the whole board ground plane.

Also I will note, I have seen bridge rectifiers test good on the diode test, but still fail under load.

The wiring does not look quite right to me. The one I am working on only has 2 wires.

I just had the same issue and had to replace the micro switch as the ‘O’ in chaos was not registering.

Check the switch in switch test in diagnostics by pressing the metal to close the switch.

Skippy2904

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Just had another look at this. I am pretty sure the one I removed was non original and should have diode fitted same as other micro switches. The insulated wire (green) should go to the centre contact.

Skippy2904

When I got my JP, I immediately put the unofficial 6.0 ROM in there. I've not played the official code in a LONG time.

One thing that's a little wonky is the behavior if you hit the super missile right before the ball drains. It ends up showing the animations for the next mode and then immediately ending. Just feels off.

For those of you that have the original ROM, does it have this behavior?

That's normal. Smart missile awards all lit shots. If the control room is lit, hitting smart missile will start the mode as you drain or in multiball or whatever the game state is.

Saw a JP in the Facebook Pinball group for sale for like $8k. Is that the going rate for these now? Should have bought a second one when I had the chance a couple years ago.

Not even close.

The price has gone up.. but not that much.

Will be listing a nice one soon w/ ColorDMD & Pinsound. Just waiting for its replacement to arrive.

It will not be $8k! If anyone is interested, give me a shout.

Looking for some help from fellow JP data east owners. A friend of mine just acquired this game, and looking for some help. His game appears to be missing an orange wiring harness that connects to CN3 on the upper right hand corner of the main cpu board. Can anyone tell me where this connects to (opposite CN3)? Or what this powers?

His game is also seemingly missing the metal bracket piece on the coin door that depresses the white interlock switch inside the game (when the coin door is closed). Does anybody else’s game have this piece missing? Trying to figure out if this could cause problems to the game by not having this functionality. Thanks for any help you can provide!

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So I installed a fresh xpin power board and I instantly saw F2 fuse blow on it upon turning it on. Any idea what's causing that?

What is F2 marked on the board? I don't know if it is same as the original board. Post a picture?

It was for an optional printer, the other end of the orange harness ends in the front by the coin box.

Thank you for the education!

I have a really nice one in CT I will be selling, Just finishing up the shop. Did A new power board, flipper board, side rails, lock down bar and quite a few other things. This game has been in a home for more the n 20 years.

So my right lover flipper is kinda weak so I checked underneath and saw this: (see photo)

The cables to the left eos looks disconected and there seems to be no connection between the “flipper parts”and the eos switches on both sides. I just acquired this jp and it’s in bad shape. It’s my first data east flipper and my second total.

Any ideas? If someone has a picture of how it’s suppose to look, I will be really grateful!
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Anybody know where you can get just the motor for the sideways T-Rex movement. I only see the entire gearbox with the motor at Marco and I do not want to spent $170 for a gearbox I don't need just so the dino can turn sideways
Thanks.

It is trying to fire the coil using the hold winding.

Solder the wires back onto the EOS switch and report back. Does not matter which goes to which since it is open/closed switch and only 2 solder lugs.

On closer inspection looks like the previous ovners shorted the eos by choice. It’s looks like they connected the wires to each other on the left (strong) one and solder the wires to the same leaf on the right (weak one). Compare my photos below to one I found on the web:

And it also looks like the eos leaf switch is to short (2nd photo):

This ain’t good right?
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Can't tell. You have to move the plunger and see if it opens the switch.

Not sure if that will keep the high voltage on all the time. If it did, I would guess the fuse for the high voltage for that flipper is blown. Look at the flipper board on the left side of the bottom cabinet. Measure the fuses to see if any are blown.

There's something familiar about that site and picture

I'm having a hard time following the progression of your pictures. However, the 2nd picture appears to show 2 wires connected together and nothing connected to the EOS. If so, then yes... that's not right.

[EDIT: I did some more research and I'm adjusting my text. Old text removed!]

Looking at some info from the classic Clay's guide, it talks about the EOS switch on JP. It exists for a single purpose... If the pin wants the flipper to be up and something causes the flipper to go back down (such as a fast ball from the raptor pit) during this time, the game knows because the switch transitions to closed. It then enables the high voltage to flip back up.

So this hack remove the capability.

Thanks for your answers! I’ll check the fuses.

Yeah the long blade in both leaf switches are broken off and that’s probably why they shorted the eos wires. I’ll order some new. Hopefully it will solve the weak right switch.

altan oh, I’ve read your jd restoration post several times! It’s great! (https://www.aaarpinball.com/JurassicPark/JP.htm)

Yah, shorting the eos on this was a hack to improve reliability before they revised the board I think. Check the service bulletin and see if your flipper board needs the mods.

EOS Service Bulletin sb54.pdf