I did buy the rottendog board. It seems to have fixed all the issues I was having except for the display. Voltages test well. I had a spare CPU board that I tried swapping in. I'm a little worried I damage one or more of the legs on the rom chip swapping it around. I have a new one on the way, so we'll see if that helps at all. I did do some forum searching and saw that as a fix for the same issue in a DE Star Wars.

A little disappointed in the CPR plastic set. Less detail and much darker than the original plastics. I'm holding the original plastics next to the installed CPR plastics in these photos.

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Yup, others reported the same thing a couple years ago.

Yeah, I just read those posts too. Just thought I would post an update so everyone knows they still look the same!

I'm sitting at 6.8. Ramp feels perfect right now, still needs a clean shot to make it all the way up.

For some reason the JP ramp is the most difficult ramp in my DE collection to hit with consistency, its a bitch to shoot.

The only two shots I can't consistently get are the ramp and through the poppers to orbit.

I don't even shoot the orbit shot because of how difficult it is for me.

If I need to feed Trex and I'm on the right flipper, will just shoot the control room, get on my left flipper for a boat dock to then (hopefully) nail the saucer.

If that all goes smoothly, there's no better feeling in the game.

New to the club. Where did you get the T Rex teeth from? Sorry if I missed it. Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/85450

Great! Thanks!

Turned on the game last week and got nothing but this screen flashing on the DMD, game otherwise seemed to boot fine. I started a game, and sometime during play the display resumed normal operation. Next time I turned on the game a few days later, I got the same flashing display, but now it won't revert back to normal display during a game. Everything else in the game seems to work perfectly. I pushed on all the roms, but haven't physically pulled and re-seated them yet.

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Looks like your display is constantly rebooting. Most likely a power issue with the display. Start with reseating all display related cables (with the power off).

I did that shortly after posting, and it fixed the problem. Thanks for the response.

Hello all. Long story short, my wife and I met over this pin in a bar I was working at 27 years ago. She surprised me with a totally refurbished DE JP for our 25th anniversary!! Anyway….I found a DE JP topper online and ordered it. I just received it and noticed it mounts in back of the lights on the backbox. I see there are 3 screw holes in front of the lights. Am I missing a piece?

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Yes, an angled metal strip attaches there to hide the bulbs from view of any tall players.

Any chance I can find that piece?

PM me your address and you can have mine. I use a Tilt topper and have no need for it

Nice.

I see that thekaiser82 is going to send you the part. For reference, below are a couple of photos of my JP topper with the piece installed.

Gord

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Wow…Thanks for the pics. I was puzzled when I saw the 3 pre drilled holes in front of the lights.

One more question….does anyone know if the high scores can be erased and started over? Is it done through the menu?

Yes and yes. By default it will also reset the high scores every X plays. You can turn that off if you want.

Power shield is the minigame where you have to save Timmy right? i let the ball drop down on the left flipper and when it's still very close to the pivot, so to the left, i shoot it immediately. It goes up straight in the bumpers. or shoot to the docks, and with upper right flipper shoot it in the gate to the bumpers.

No, that mode is called 'electric fences'. He is talking about the 'power shed' upper right scoop. That scoop is a tight shot and I don't know any trick to making it easily.

I just finished a lengthy restoration on a Jurassic Park. This thread was a great source of reference images. I did a write-up on the entire restoration process and posted it here: https://www.afpinball.com/restorations/jurassic-park-data-east.

I hope someone here finds it useful in future.

Thanks for posting!

Do you casually watch this thread longing for a DE Jurassic Park? Do you have a Tommy that you no longer want? If so, let's chat.

Looking for a trade...

Can anyone fill me in on what transistor drives the Boat Dock eject coil? What else does that transistor drive?

Thanks for any help.

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From the JP manual... looks like it also drives some flashers.

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Manual:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1343/Data_East_1993_Jurassic_Park_Manual.pdf

Thanks so much, but I can't make it out! Hilarious.

Does it read Q46?

I zoomed far in on the PDF manual and it looks like Q46 to me.

Thanks again. Very cool.

Definitely Q46 in my copy. (also they are in order in the manual- Q46, Q45, Q44... )

Need a bit of help in replacing the T-Rex jaw link using a new part from Marco.

I'm good on how to take ole Rexy apart, but does anyone know how to take this pin out so I can install the new link? It's the short, darker colored bar in the picture.

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That's a roll pin. If you look closely, you will see that one side may be a little smaller than the other. Squeeze the smaller side with pliers and push it out or tap it out after squeezing it. There are probably some Youtube examples of removing roll pins online.

Perfect, appreciate your help!

Hello Friends - long time! wondered if I might bounce an issue off the group to inspire a new direction of thinking for a flipper issue i've been having.

I hadn't played my DE JP in sometime (never moved, just sat where it's been for the last 2+ years) and when I finally turned it on, the lower right flipper was weak and wouldn't stay engaged -- I thought maybe a flipper rebuild would be in order so I did one this evening and while the flipper itself is definitely more responsive it definitely isn't as strong as it should be (even audibly it doesn't sound as strong as the upper right or the lower left flippers). Worth noting is that the upper right and lower left flippers have always played as they should.

Here's what I've done to trouble shoot:

- I noticed some discolouration on the right side flipper button leafswitch that controls both upper and lower right side flippers, so I cleaned the contacts with isopropyl alcohol (tons of grime came off) but the lower right flipper remained half powered and semi responsive.

- The flipper board registers the button pushes (red lights blink on with the flipper buttons are depressed).

- I've checked the fuses on flipper board (and throughout) and none appear to be blown.

- The backbox cabling as well as all cabling in and around the front end of the game all appear connected and ok.

- Did a rebuild job on the lower right flipper and triple checked the matching of the coil numbering as well as all the soldering/cable placements.

Is it possible my flipper board is pooched somehow? I might have the original one that came with the machine to test (nothing was wrong with it, I just upgraded the board as per the flipper board service bulletin from years ago - the EOS switch one).

If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated and I can post pics/videos of everything if that would make anything easier.

Thanks everyone,

Johnny

Since you rebuilt the flipper, that should eliminate mechanical issues. Couple of common electrical problem areas to check:

- Fuse clips on the flipper board. Make sure the clips are not broken and all of the fuses are held tightly in the clips.
- EOS switch on the flipper assembly. Is it clean and gapped correctly? Is there any difference if you jumper the switch contacts?

I triple checked the fuse clips throughout the machine and found nothing out of the ordinary.

The EOS switch also looked good (was replaced during rebuild).

Oddly - this morning I thought the back side of the solder job on the flipper coil looked thin so I added some and it *seems* to be working correctly now - even audibly it sounds correct now. Guess I’ll play some games and see what happens.

nm

Does anyone have the CPR Mirrored backglass? if so, thoughts? pics?

Would someone be able to share with me a pic with how the ball trough switch is connected with the diode? My trough switch has a broken diode but I can't find anywhere how it should be connected (I suspect this is the culprit behind my "Dino Dino Dino" bug that happens on occasion. Yes I do have a new CPU chip on the way, but I still want to fix this). The switch has some solder on the third leg and I assume that's where the diode was attached, but I don't want to assume and blow something if it isn't. Thanks!

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I decided to jump the shark and connected a new diode where that old one was and my trough was fixed. The "Dino Dino Dino" bug still happens tho, probably another switch in that matrix tripping it.

go to page 182 of this thread there's a clear picture of it, i had the same issue too and i fixed it.