The GI is starting from CN8 from Power supply and splits to the backbox via Z connector and playfield?

I only have GI in the back part of the playfield starting from the 3th flipper.
The front part of the playfield and backbox still out.

Could this be a broken wire or diode?

Thanks.

Really starting to hate this machine.

GI still out, a lot of switches not triggering and when I trigger left slingshot it triggers als left pop bumper and when I trigger right outlane it triggers another switch.

Pffffffff

1) Power flows out of the power supply connector to the PPB and then out to the playfield and backglass.

2) Check to make sure you have power flowing out of the power supply board (bad solder joints and burned connector common) and check power flowing out of the PPB past the fuses. (bad solder joints and burned connector common) its a very simple circuit.

4 power lines (and returns) come out of the power supply board, go through the PPB and the 4 fuses and from there to various locations.

connector locations. (resized).jpg

Thanks but how do I check it?
Via DMM on the back of the boards?
Via the connectors?
Machine powered on or off?

With a meter with the machine on, via the connectors is fine till you find a break.

Have you used a meter to check the fuses?

Burned connectors on Data East are so common I keep them and new terminals in stock. Change to led lighting after repair to prolong life of the connectors.

GI fixed on the playfield. F4 holder had wacky connection together with J5 on PPB
Sometimes when I power on the machine the under row of the backbox bulbs go on for half a second.
Backbox still dark

DSC_4092 (resized).JPG

Follow the power, back box connector at the hinge known for getting toasted. Try wiggling the connector there to see if it flickers on and off.

Could you give me a picture of that connector please?

Already Thanks for the info.

Note the crispy colors on the connector.

BBq_connectors (resized).jpg

Note the Z connector between the connectors. In that example picture, its possible those pins in the Z connector are toast and you would need a new connector.

Problem solved.

It was a combination of the wires not touching the pin in the connector and the power supply board that was loose in the backbox.

Now figuring out the problem with the ghost switches

Thanks for helping me with this GI

DSC_4114 (resized).JPG

Once again coming for some help, I rebuilt the upper right flipper and its working great now. I also changed the bats on both the bottom flippers, then after a while the bottom right flipper stopped working. When I hit the flipper button the top flipper will fire but the bottom one will not. I tried to clean the EOS contacts but that didnt seem to help. Here are some pics of the coil the connection looks a little sloppy but everything is secure. Any advice on where to start troubleshooting?

Thanks

Image from iOS (2) (resized).jpg

Image from iOS (3) (resized).jpg

Image from iOS (4) (resized).jpg

Looks like you need to add more heat/solder to those coil tabs/wires.

Have a look at your flipper button leaf switch.

Well desoldered all the connections to the flipper and resoldered them and it seems to be working again. Thanks for the help again everyone

Does anyone have detailed photos of the Trex mech removed? Trying to refurbish mine and it appears an operator didn’t do a good job in the past and used random hardware.

A fellow northwest Ohio pin head, if you search this thread for Rex there are a lot good pictures I was able to get mine working from those, if there is anything else specific I might be able to get some later tonight.

Could somebody help me with a picture of the correct wiring for C8 on the power supply.

707A6DD6-EC1A-4911-86AD-19D619F3D017 (resized).jpeg

Ohhh nevermind… found them in this thread

17BD3F28-22B6-4776-86EA-A9529C041BC5 (resized).jpeg

E4494B00-EB93-44BF-9490-CAD592812D16 (resized).jpeg

Here is a clearer photo.

IMG_0543 (resized).jpg

Your CN1 got hot, so keep an eye on that.

c1 (resized).jpg

DE is so easy to swap out that I keep NVRAM in stock.

Two things happen when a DE shows up at my house- LED's across the board and NVRAM for the MPU.

$20 for NVRAM is cheap insurance.

$20 or $400 when the board is turned to junk IF you can find one for sale.

Feeling lucky?

One of the NE board members was crying the blues when they were tardy changing batteries and a Whirlwind MPU was wiped out.

Anyone happen to have an extra control room scoop plastic they would be willing to sell?

jp plastic (resized).png

Hi, i'm a noob so excuse me in case i'm possibly asking the obvious. i've got a malfunction with the switch under the "A" hole, i had an unsoldered cable and i soldered it in place..just to note that it actually doesn't work and incidentally it's the only switch in the whole machine that has not a diode across the two distant connectors. all of them have a green cable in the middle, and a white/striped one on the inner side, and a diode across the exteral third connector. I assume there should be a diode there too, correct? no trace of it. And, what diode should i use? i read that 1N4004 or 1N4007 should be fine is it correct? thanks a lot in advance.

I believe the diode is mounted off to the side since that switch gets a lot of vibration/impacts.

Let me reformulate: there is no diode on this switch in any position, the one at its immediate left has it. If you have the machine can you please check?

Here is a photo of mine which does have a diode on the switch. I recall that some also have the diode mounted close nearby instead.

(photo is mirror image, since the camera was pointed straight up?)

IMG_0548 (resized).jpg

You mean rotated 180° right? Ok so diode present on both, mine is missing the (in your picture) left one. Any guess if a 1N4007 would be fine? Thanks a lot!

yup, thats it. always weird to visualize when you stick the camera in the coin door.

(rotated like the playfield is up: )

IMG_0548 (resized).jpg

Thanks again, any hint on the diode type?

1N4007 would be fine

after some extensive search i read that the correct would be 1N4004 but i've ordered a bunch of mixed types, i'll try this first, thanks to you all!

It's all smooth now - for that switch at least!

Now another possibly noob question: when i turn on the pinball sometimes it makes go down the central switch of the floor (not the one of the whole house, for maximun watts reached, just a local safety switch) or sometimes looks like there's a power issue (screen not working fine, some lights off..)
But, if i turn off everything on the floor it works fine.
The more stuff i have on the more it's likely that it would "malfunction" or make the power shut down.
i have a 3KW/h supply, isn't it powerful enough? could it be a ground issue? anyone having same problem?

thanks and a happy multiball year to everyone!

It sounds like you have low voltage when other devices are turned on. Another thing to check, breakers tend to get weak after they trip (open) many times. It is possible your breaker is weak.

Your 3KW source should allow you to pull about 13 amps - assuming 220 VAC. I don't know what the surge current is when powering up JP - its possible you reach the trip point with other stuff on. Try varying the starting sequence of what you turn on first - JP, then jukebox, then mood lights, etc. See if changing the sequence reduces your problems.

JP is less than 1kw so you need an electrician to check what the power issue is there. If you have a lamp plugged in there, does it go dim when things are turned on?

if i turn on the JP and then all else, it works. The opposite, quite not. I don't try intentionally the extreme, like almost--too-much on and then JP. But if it starts alone, it works. I don't see lights going dim, just the more stuff it's on, the more likely the JP will work bad at start. yesterday i was sure it was blown, with many lights off, today with basically all off on this floor, flawless.
(unfortunately of luckily i don't have a juke box )

Just for grins, do you have an amp meter to check what JP is pulling? An analog meter is best to see if you have a high surge current.

Have you checked all of your power supply voltages, including the amount of AC ripple on the DC side?

I've had this too, solved by this https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_sys11_house_fuse_trips.html

Please be carefull when working in the area where the main voltage is present, disconnect the machine from the outlet!

thanks, i see that this place is a great source of information and with really great people! So at least it's good to know that it's not indicating a faulty pinball, thanks!

Diode values are not in the manual as far as i can see, and the writings on the diods are to tiny that you'd better take it off to see. If it's readable, some seem to be very rough on mine.
Try reading through here: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega

Well in my previous post about my issues i've been too optimistic. regardless of what's running in the house now i get:
*audio, game, bumpers, switches, all OK
*many lights on the board, smart missile and start button off.
*screen with vertical lines only

could it be power issues? i might be wrong but involving both lights and screen.. doesn't seem a screen-specific issue. Anything to look into?

thanks in advance.

All the test points on the power supply board OK?

I turned out to be noober than expected: i opened the back panel, and disconnected and reconnected all the plugs from the boards. None seemed loose, but at first attempt the machine was OK EXCEPT the sound effects were played in random order. Done it all again, and it seems to be fine. After all it's 29 years old, and there are tons of connections... and it vibrates and shakes like hell. No surprise some connections get loose.

Random intermittent issues are often caused by ribbon cables. If reseating them does not correct it, next replace the ribbon cable. In this case, the ribbon cable going to the sound board.

So its been about a month since I picked up my JP and I think I've finally got everything going smooth. NVRAM and Chad code installed, flippers rebuilt, T-Rex working (up and down at least), all bulbs that were out replaced, new titan rubbers, couple broken plastics mended, DIY Pinstadiums installed, drop targets adjusted and finally playfield and wireforms cleaned and waxed. Now to bump up these rookie score numbers

IMG_7063 (resized).jpg

Looking good. Maybe get some cliffys on those scoops.

Have you gotten to System Failure yet? It's a fun mode and still makes me smile every time I get there.