(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

7 years ago


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  • 9,044 posts
  • 505 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Toine79
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There are 9,044 posts in this topic. You are on page 180 of 181.
#8951 72 days ago

I burn after a few seconds the tip36c at the top of the flipper board, What can it depend on? Logically after you burn the relative fuse and the f no longer works the lower right flipper

1 week later
#8952 64 days ago
Quoted from KenH:

I worked on a JP that had this problem. The l/r movement was so sluggish, that the trex could not find his center before the CPU would disable the l/r movement.
To correct the problem, I added full-wave rectification for the l/r motor, which greatly improved the trex l/r movement. If you look at the circuit board above, you'll see 3 diodes. 2 are for full wave rectification of the shaker motor, and 1 is for half wave rectification of the trex l/r motor. Since the AC feed for this comes from a center-tapped part of the transformer (see manual pg. 46), you can easily add one diode and one fuse to the circuit board above and feed a full wave rectified signal to the l/r motor (see page 49, left side). If you want to change it back to half wave rectified (original) later, you simply remove one of two the fuses for the l/r motor.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I worked on a JP that had this problem. The l/r movement was so sluggish, that the trex could not find his center before the CPU would disable the l/r movement.
To correct the problem, I added full-wave rectification for the l/r motor, which greatly improved the trex l/r movement. If you look at the circuit board above, you'll see 3 diodes. 2 are for full wave rectification of the shaker motor, and 1 is for half wave rectification of the trex l/r motor. Since the AC feed for this comes from a center-tapped part of the transformer (see manual pg. 46), you can easily add one diode and one fuse to the circuit board above and feed a full wave rectified signal to the l/r motor (see page 49, left side). If you want to change it back to half wave rectified (original) later, you simply remove one of two the fuses for the l/r motor.

I posted this question on an old thread that was marked solved, so this might be a better place to ask .

I’m looking to add full wave rectification for the left right motor and I want to double check so I don’t mess anything up.
Am I running a wire with fuse and diode from the gry-grn wire on J1 to the gry-blu wire on J3?

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#8953 62 days ago

If anyone is interested in the JP lighted flippers they are now posted available at http://www.ArcadeMade.com

JP3 (resized).jpg

#8954 59 days ago

The Super VUK sometimes takes 3-4 tries to get the ball up into the wireform. What parts should I look at replacing? Just the coil maybe?

Thanks,

Ryan

#8955 59 days ago
Quoted from weasel671:

What parts should I look at replacing?

Start with checking over the mech, cleaning it up and replacing the coil sleeve.

#8956 59 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Start with checking over the mech, cleaning it up and replacing the coil sleeve.

The plunger is not getting hung up, it acts like it doesn't have enough power to kick it out.

#8957 59 days ago
Quoted from weasel671:

The Super VUK sometimes takes 3-4 tries to get the ball up into the wireform. What parts should I look at replacing? Just the coil maybe?

I had exactly the same problem. What does your Ball Popper Cap (official term, it seems) look like? Mine was totally worn out. Replaced it and it works 100% of the time now.

$3.95 fix
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-ball-popper-cap.html

If this is your issue, I can give you some tips on installation. Not hard, but not intuitive (for me, at least)

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#8958 59 days ago
Quoted from weasel671:

The Super VUK sometimes takes 3-4 tries to get the ball up into the wireform. What parts should I look at replacing? Just the coil maybe?
Thanks,
Ryan

Another possibility are the 3 compression rings. I had a similar problem on another DE game, TFTC, and documented the following thread which details my troubleshooting from beginning to end including the eventual solution.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tftc-vuk-issue#post-2929060

Gord

#8959 58 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

I had exactly the same problem. What does your Ball Popper Cap (official term, it seems) look like? Mine was totally worn out. Replaced it and it works 100% of the time now.
$3.95 fix
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-ball-popper-cap.html
If this is your issue, I can give you some tips on installation. Not hard, but not intuitive (for me, at least)
[quoted image]

Mine looks like your worn out one.

#8960 58 days ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Mine looks like your worn out one.

Start with that part then. Disassembly is pretty straight forward. Once you get the piece out /away from the subway, rotate the metal “fingers” from around the “neck” of the piece. A small metal pin is inside. Once you get that out, you can replace the piece. Re-use the old fingers and pin on the new piece.

#8961 58 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

Start with that part then. Disassembly is pretty straight forward. Once you get the piece out /away from the subway, rotate the metal “fingers” from around the “neck” of the piece. A small metal pin is inside. Once you get that out, you can replace the piece. Re-use the old fingers and pin on the new piece.

Sounds easy enough. I'm wondering if I should just buy the whole rebuild kit for $17?

#8962 58 days ago
Quoted from weasel671:

I'm wondering if I should just buy the whole rebuild kit for $17?

not a bad idea. I have also read of issues where the metal fingers got loose which caused slop in the mech.

Had I realized there was a kit I probably would have done it!

#8963 58 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

not a bad idea. I have also read of issues where the metal fingers got loose which caused slop in the mech.
Had I realized there was a kit I probably would have done it!

It's on the same website you sent me.

#8964 58 days ago

Can someone show me how the topper is mounted? Finally getting around to mounting a topper I’ve had for years but I have no bracket/screws. Thanks

#8965 57 days ago
Quoted from C_Presley:

Can someone show me how the topper is mounted? Finally getting around to mounting a topper I’ve had for years but I have no bracket/screws. Thanks

Hope these help!

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#8966 57 days ago

Anybody know the coil sleeve length on the super vuk coil off the top of their head? I don't want to rip my game apart until I have the rebuild kit and coil sleeve, so I can still play it in the meantime.

#8967 56 days ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Hope these help!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Absolutely, thanks!

#8968 56 days ago
Quoted from weasel671:

The Super VUK sometimes takes 3-4 tries to get the ball up into the wireform. What parts should I look at replacing? Just the coil maybe?
Thanks,
Ryan

I had to enlarge the playfield hole.
The VUK needs to send the ball up to the top/upper side wire form so the ball can
whip over to the full wire form cage.
Most of the time the wire form is misaligned over the VUK and the ball ends up hitting
the center part of the curve.
The pitch of the game also can cause problems.

#8969 54 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

I had exactly the same problem. What does your Ball Popper Cap (official term, it seems) look like? Mine was totally worn out. Replaced it and it works 100% of the time now.
$3.95 fix
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-ball-popper-cap.html
If this is your issue, I can give you some tips on installation. Not hard, but not intuitive (for me, at least)
[quoted image]

I recently replaced mine and now in rare occurances the ball doesn't make it onto the plunger and gets stuck in the subway.
The cap seems to sit too proud and as its not worn out the ball sometimes doesn't make it onto it.

#8970 49 days ago

Wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to why these switches aren’t working? Wiring looks good. Tested diodes and they checked out. It’s suspicious how they’re all located right next to each other. However, only three of the four share the same wiring in the switch matrix.

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#8971 49 days ago

Does anybody know where I can buy a new vuk switch for my jp? Part# 180-5064-00. The wire on the actuator broke off.

#8972 49 days ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Does anybody know where I can buy a new vuk switch for my jp? Part# 180-5064-00. The wire on the actuator broke off.

This should do it:
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=180-5064-01

#8973 49 days ago

That's the right switch, but my actuator arm broke

#8974 48 days ago

Sorry. I was looking at the wrong one. Thanks!

#8975 48 days ago
Quoted from Mikew492:

Wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to why these switches aren’t working? Wiring looks good. Tested diodes and they checked out. It’s suspicious how they’re all located right next to each other. However, only three of the four share the same wiring in the switch matrix.
[quoted image]

For the ones in the same column, I'd check closely 37 Center Scoop. Everything look OK with the wires and diode on that one?

#8976 48 days ago
Quoted from ChadH:

For the ones in the same column, I'd check closely 37 Center Scoop. Everything look OK with the wires and diode on that one?

Wiring and diode look good on that one too. I gently moved around the switches a little and now all three switch’s in that column work!

I started troubleshooting 52 triceratops and couldn’t find any continuity in the white-yellow wire (assuming that’s ground?). I had to take off A LOT of zip ties to trace the wire and looks like it just goes out the back in the wiring harness. Does anyone know if it’ll hurt anything to run a jumper wire to that lug from another white-yellow wire?

Added 48 days ago:

Oops. White-yellow is the row in the switch matrix. Never mind…

#8977 47 days ago

New pin cover courtesy of Zavvi!

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1 week later
#8978 37 days ago

Anyone else have problems in the raptor pit with the solenoid shifting off angle and getting the ball wedged in there? It’s like the force of the solenoid firing beds it’s mounting bracket.

image (resized).jpg
#8979 36 days ago
Quoted from tl54hill:

Anyone else have problems in the raptor pit with the solenoid shifting off angle and getting the ball wedged in there? It’s like the force of the solenoid firing beds it’s mounting bracket.
[quoted image]

I suspect you have a broken coil bracket, coil bracket not screwed down, or the screw holes are bored out and the screws are not securing it down. You'll have to tear down that area to confirm it. Good luck. Time your time.

1 week later
#8980 27 days ago

Hi everybody,

I have a strange issue with a bumper light.

The 3 bumpers lights are normally solid lit except when the bumpers fire, or during some game sequences.

One of my bumper lights remains unlit, whenever the bumper fires or not.

BUT, the bulb is not the problem, cause it lights during attract mode and some game sequences as well...

Some ideas ? Thx

#8981 26 days ago
Quoted from softail:

BUT, the bulb is not the problem, cause it lights during attract mode

Maybe the bulb or socket or wire is loose and just working intermittently. Maybe something in the lamp matrix is making it not work in combination with another lamp. Does is work OK in lamp test mode, even when knocking on the playfield?

#8982 26 days ago

Ok,
After further investigation :
None of the lamps on row 8 World
But...each lamp on row 6 lights the correspondant light on row 8.
Bulb 16 lights 18
Bulb 26 lights 28.
Etc...

#8983 24 days ago

Well, I've made a little test system :
----wire---diode----bulb----wire
I've tested each pin from CN7 to CN6.
My testing lamp lights up every Time EXCEPT when connected to CN6 pin 9.

So, I presume that the culprit is the CPU, and not the wiring...
Correct ??

IMG_20211111_184304 (resized).jpg
#8984 23 days ago

Anyone have any ideas on some weird lighting stuff?

Ever since I upgraded to Chad's code, I've had one weird issue (and I was one of the first to do that if not the first, I helped write it!)... My out lanes constantly flash special.

Recently, I decided it was time to replace a bunch of the playfield lights with Leds. Using Pinball Life Ghostbusters, the following things happen...

- Raptor Rampage constantly flashes in both attract and game.
- Escape Isla Numblar never turns on in both attract and game.
- Extra Ball works as normal during game play, but then turns on and stays on at all times during the game.

It's strange. If I switch back to the old bulbs, they all seem suuuuuuper weak. Any thoughts?

#8985 23 days ago

Thé 3 lamps you are talking about are all related to the same column in the lamp Matrix.
You should first follow the yellow-violet wire,, especially between raptor pit danger and raptor pit

#8986 22 days ago

I joined the club with a very dirty routed machine.

Lot of problems on it:

Lights in the backbox are all out, but flashers do work.

Upper flipper does not work when pushing the right button.

T rex just moves its jaw during test. Does not go up and down nor left to right.

Found also 2 wires with connectors in the cabinet on the right side

Power supply board raped by an operater.

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#8987 21 days ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Found also 2 wires with connectors in the cabinet on the right side

Good news - those 2 connectors are not used. Stuck my phone in the coin door and took this pic:

IMG_0329 (resized).jpg

#8988 21 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Good news - those 2 connectors are not used. Stuck my phone in the coin door and took this pic:
[quoted image]

Optional printer.

For the GI check plugs at power board, PPS board and the connector where the back board hinge is. Look for burnt pins.

#8989 21 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Optional printer.
For the GI check plugs at power board, PPS board and the connector where the back board hinge is. Look for burnt pins.

Could you give me an indication (picture) where to find the Pps board and the connector in the backbox?
Thanks.

#8990 21 days ago

Hi to my belgian neighbour (Affligem----excellent beer.....)

Your connectors are toasted, you need toreplace BOTH male and female connectors ( for spare parts, try in France ecflipp or restorpinball

For the Trex moves : there are motors underneath the playfield, that creates lateral and up and down move. Lateral in only for fun and not useful for the gameplay. You must check the up and down movement with the specific Trex test procedure into diagmostics.
YOu will verify that all the switch register.
Then sometimes the trex head goes down but does not swallow the ball.....Its a failure in the grey wire, but it s another story..

#8991 21 days ago

Also you can turn off the T-REX while working on other issues.

adjustment 46: trex eat balls = yes/no

#8992 20 days ago

Hello,

Is It possible to post some pictures of the T rex assembly and the wiring of it under the playfield?
Thanks.

Found some issues with broken diodes and broken wires.
Will repair the Power supply board because connector is toasted and 2 fuse clips are broken.

#8993 20 days ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Hello,
Is It possible to post some pictures of the T rex assembly and the wiring of it under the playfield?

Picture gallery.

#8994 19 days ago

Well, each lamp of row 6 lights up the lamp in row 8 (same column).
With a DMM, I can read continuity between the red wires related to row 6 and row 8.
So, I have a short in the wiring under the playfield.

DO you think I should check the diodes, the wiring between two lamps, or the led bulbs ?

#8995 19 days ago

Check the wiring and the board that feeds the lamps in case the problem is on the board.

#8996 15 days ago

Can someone post a pic of the bumpers lights connector under the playfield ?

As you can see, mine has a wire junp between the red-grey and red-brown
Seems strange... Thx

IMG_20200207_140103 (resized).jpg
#8997 10 days ago

In case anyone was interested in a new fix for the speaker hum

#8998 9 days ago

Ordered, Thanks!

#8999 8 days ago

Thanks, excellent report. I think I'll order at least one, then if it works well, I'll buy it for Tales From the crypt and Lethal Weapon 3

#9000 8 days ago

@Landrecies
My plate looks this way.

IMG_20211128_103417 (resized).jpg
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