I had an opportunity to pick up this JPDE DIRT cheap, for obvious reason based on photo. What should my immediate steps be?

Please respond as if I’m
A complete idiot.

Thanks!

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It looks like you are missing the MPU004 board which should occupy that large open space in your photo. I have attached a photo of my DE JP back box boards for your reference.

I don't know where folks go to find these DE pinball boards, but you may want to search on Pinside or post a WTB ad for this specific board. A quick internet search yielded the following results which are both pricey and it appears that some of the boards are untested.

ebay.com link: itm
ebay.com link: itm
ebay.com link: itm

https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-data-east-mpu-board.html

Another option is to reach out to DumbAss as there is a thread where he was discussing recreating the DE MPU004 board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs?tq=MPU004&tu=

Gord

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I believe it should be a #6 which fits in a 5/16 socket driver. ( https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/240-5203-00).

Those are on the slings,posts near the raptor pit and pop bumper gate etc anyway.

Thanks koops

Also you would be surprised how well those old nylocks and metal parts come up after a few days in a vibratory tumbler or if you don't have access to one of those some Autosol Metal Polish and elbow grease! I reccomend polishing the new ones regardless, gates, wireforms, posts.. she will glisten like its 1993 all over again... once you get the bug you can't stop!!!!

Not sure if stock, but I recall a couple of the threads on my game being slightly larger on one or two posts... Maybe the one that holds the right wire form to the right sling?

I outfitted my game with dyed green nylon acorn nuts. The reason I remember there being one or two larger threads is that I had to force the acorn nuts onto them and basically thread them for the larger size in the process.

If staying with metal nylock nuts, I'd go stainless steel.

Your posts have probably been replaced with something different.

Original post as per manual : 530-5007-00
Suggested replacement : 530-5332-03

Both the original and suggested replacement have the same top threads.

Marcos has this information about the post : https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5332-03

"#530-5332-03
Metal post with hex base 6-32 top stud and 10-32 thread on bottom.

Overall length is 2-1/2 inches.

Service Update:

Stern recommends using this stronger 530-5332-03 post instead of 530-5007-00 post.

The 530-5007-00 snaps too easily and has been discontinued."

Also referenced here : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-wars-de-bumper-post-snapped

So the top nut "should" be the same but the ones under the playfield should be different.

I just replaced all 4 tonight (which I why I replied to the other post as I had to look them up myself).
I had to drill the holes slightly larger.

11/32" nut driver is common, 5/16" not far behind.

Most of the bare posts are 1/4" drive.

I have this board and have been happy with it. One nice benefit is that NVRAM is built in so the board doesn't need any batteries (that can leak over time).

The chip on the original board is socketed so switching to NVRAM is super easy, just swap a chip.
Rottendog boards are ok but I would try to find an original first.
Either way its probably gonna cost you $350-$400.

Thank you everyone for the informative posts!

Yes, I’m very aware of the battery corrosion issues as I used to own a LW3 that still had those wretched AA batteries.

I’m prepared to spend the $400 to get the board. If that’s all it ends up costing to bring this machine to fully functional use, I’ll be a happy man. Fortunately my initial investment to acquire the machine was low enough that I can avoid cutting corners in bringing it back to life. Will definitely be converting to NVRam.

I’ll also be on the lookout for an original topper, but that’s kinda low on the priority list, obv.

Thank you again to those that posted and DM’d me!

I waited a year before i was able to locate an original MPU for my project JP pin. Being it was an Ebay special, untested board, I had to repair it for a boot up issue. Good feeling, especially when I got it for $150, but that was 3 years ago.

I choose to wait for an original than to purchase a Rottendog MPU, which is always a crap shoot.

Here’s another mpu option.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/10#post-6233946

Yes, that will get my vote for replacing a battery damaged board as a 2nd option. I didn't think he had DE MPU boards ready to go. Been a while since I had visited his thread.

Hi - I have had all of the metal guides off the machine and metal polished them. I also cleaned the heads of the screws and bought new wood screws for the plastics. Then I was putting the nuts back on and thought can I be bothered polishing all of these up lol - for 6p each I thought not, so have some in a basket waiting to purchase.

Stu

Hi - I only just discovered that my Gate is not in the correct place on the ramp. It is fixed to the top of the posts at the gate entrance and those posts are a mis-match anyway. As I mentioned before it came from an Arcade in Germany, via Poland to me, and was in a rough state so my guess is the ramp got damaged once and they bodged a fix.

I'm going to swap both posts back to stock and see how I can re-fix the gate on the ramp - especially as I have @GMoney-mods new Gate to install when it arrives.

So I made it back to my buddy's house and I found Q24 and Q39 to be shorted. I suspect that will fix his dino, but I also saw this oddity while removing his board. The housing has more connections than the board does. I am not sure what these wires are running to that are not connected. Does anyone have a pic of what this connector should look like?

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I have an original DE MPU004 board in my JP. Below are some photos of the original DE MPU004 board in my game and the CN3 header has 12 pins which differs from your Rottendog replacement board which has a 9-pin header at CN3. I am not sure how this is supposed to work on the Rottendog board since the CN3 board header does not contain 12 pins.

ebay.com link: itm

You will need someone more familiar with the Rottendog replacement board to chime in here on how/where the JP 12-pin connector is supposed to connect to for the extra 2 wires as the last slot in the 12-pin connector is empty.

Gord

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Communication for operators and large companies, that wanted printed data on the stats to the audits of the equipment.

Custom toppers.It isn't everyone's cup of tea and adds nothing to the game play but I always like making up a topper for these 90's games. Anyone got any ideas they want to share for JP? Couple of awesome models from Rebor and Nanmu here. The detail on them if fantastic. Thinking a goat in the middle. Maybe a broken T-rex fence across the back and some larger scale palm trees.

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I think I found the problem with my inconsistent T-Rex subway VUK…

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I have the same rotten dog MPU and mine looks the same. So now I’m very curious, too!

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on the cpu schematic in the manual pins 10 and 11 of cn3 say n.c. 12 is blanking. It also says it goes to cn3 on the master display, but the schematics clearly don't match up with that. Then I was wondering what vec-tor meant. They are one of the smartest people on this website. I googled cn3 data east, and pinwiki has a * for this cpu board that says the extra pins are for the optional printer. I don't see it on the cabinet schematics and I'm not in front of a jp. Is there a plug in the cab with the orange wires for a printer?

edit: the guns n roses manual clearly shows the cabinet printer connection. At first glance all those wires from cpu cn3 are for the printer.

Sure is. Thanks for putting this one to bed. I can sleep better now

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Could people share photos of how they mounted and connected an extra light to illuminate the T Rex scoop? Please!

Can someone that has a JP with a PinSound and the EndProduckt mix tell me if this is normal? Something about this ramp sound seems "cut off" to me. It's also the same sound that plays when the after-ball bonuses are being tallied.

Is this right? If wrong, can anyone share what it SHOULD sound like?

Thanks,
-S

Found this little Easter egg while tidying up the playfield. Could someone please show a photo of the type of post used on the right side lane to protect the plastic? Also is there one on the left hand side also? I can see the provision for one to be screwed in but never installed.

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Here is an image from the photo morgue.
The mini post has no fluting for a rubber ring.
pasted_image (resized).png
Part 530-5004-01
Mini-Post Wood Screw ( no cut-away )
OEM production never had a Mini-Post to the left out-lane...
[ deemed unnecessary ]

Thankyou for that info and the part number is a big help. Makes sense about the left lane being left out although adding one would make the game fair maybe? So both drains have a similar gap. Anyway, will have have to drill it out the old one. Slow and steady. Replacement should help hide away that but of damage.

Just came across what looks to he a broken L piece?under the plastic behind the control room scoop. Doesn't seem to have any purpose other than a fastening point for the light wire.

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I think it is more of an airball deflector and plastic protector. My light wire wasn’t secured to it when I got the machine. See below.

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I went ahead and added that exact part you referenced to the left out lane. Got tired of losing so many balls on the left. I know it may not be OEM correct but I enjoy the game play better. Also mini post rubbers will stay in these just fine. I added them to both sides.

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Thankyou for that. Another piece I will have to track down somehow! Haha.

Thanks for the photos. Looks good. I plan on doing the same. Looking at the manual they actually list the rubbers for both lane posts so I don't think it is too far off the OEM design. Maybe it was just omitted due to costs. Same way Sega started only using 1 back box speaker despite the board being capable of stereo.

Replacement plastics. Starting to install a set and noticed the color matching is a fair bit off. Is this the norm for these JP sets? Is one supplier preferred? Original was light blue, the new Is deep blue/purple.

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For sure. Glad it helped.

Whoops. Responded to the wrong post. Glad they helped!

This was mentioned when they first came out so it is expected for what you have (ie. yours isn't a misprint etc).

Just replace them all and you wont see the difference

Just noticed all your nice green items (wireforms, inlane guides, posts). Would love to see what the entire playfield looks like. How well does the powder coated wireforms hold up?

Also, does anyone know the specs/part number for the bolt that goes through the end of the plastic inline guide and wireform (535-5642-00).

I just made my own replacement wireform (making the circle ends suck!) but I don't have the bolt. Seems to be about 50mm long and perhaps 5/32'.
Local hardware store doesnt have anything close that fits down inside the guide.

Are screws that JP uses listed anywhere? Can't seem to find them listed in the manual.

Thanks! The wire forms hold up great. Here are some pics. The previous owner did a lot of great stuff to the machine.

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Sorry for the delayed response. Left for a family vacation a day after posting and just now getting back...I have nothing, no 5 or 12..... seems as if connection 1 was burned and previous owner jumped from back of board. I ordered a xpin while gone so might install it and see what we have...will report back

No problem. Family comes first before toys.

I have nothing, no 5 or 12..... seems as if connection 1 was burned and previous owner jumped from back of board. I ordered a xpin while gone so might install it and see what we have...will report back

If the connector is burned on the board, check the CN1 plug as well. You might need to remove it from the board off to see all the sides. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the individual pins should be firmly held and reasonable clean. Some plugs are burned so badly the pins won't stay put. Dirt and loose connections produce electrical resistance, which produces more heat, which repeats the cycle until failure.

If you install the XPin board and the machine works, you're done. If not, recheck all connectors, and there are some easy things that can be looked at next.

Based on what you described so far, the Bridge Rectifier on the DE power board may be the issue. It's about an inch square. It's a ~$6 part (Maybe $12 w/shipping). You would use the diode function on your meter to test this. Ask here if you want to chase it down, or look on youtube for "How to test Bridge Rectifiers"

If the XPin board gets the machine going, you might keep the DE board and finish troubleshooting it when you have the time. You could fix it and have a shelf-spare and learn your way around the board. Depends on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go.

I really appreciate everything... I put the xpin in and redid the CN1 connection housing....fired right up. I'm going to do what you said...work on learning and repair the old board as I get time. Thinking about adding another DE down the line that uses same board...Last Action hero, etc

CN1 on the board is fried at connection 10 and 11. They jumped with wire and electrical tape and connected those wire directly to the wires from 10 and 11. I need to look closer but the tape may have come loose... either way it needs repaired correctly.

Thanks again for the help... truly appreciated. That goes to all those willing to help many of us newbie's...the support many give on the site/forum is amazing. Cheers!

Is there a known solution/adjustment for the ball getting caught on the edge of the saucer and not sitting where the switch can sense it?
(not just shaking the machine and getting tilts).

I'm considering doing something similar to this ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-williams-indiana-jones-1993-saucer-lock-em-kit#post-5852296 ).

??????????????? Do you have a picture?

Here is an image of the OEM center kickout.
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Jurassic Park has two plastic yellow Eject Hole Base plates.
The top right is #545-5060-06 for Assembly #500-5664-00.
The center one is #545-5060-06-xx modified for Assembly #500-5665-00.
The modification requires that the two prong tabs be cut from the base.
I hope this helps.

This is it sitting in position where it doesn’t touch the switch.

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That base is not OEM.
Does it have the two prong/tabs ?
If so, cut them off.
The center one is #545-5060-06-xx modified for Assembly #500-5665-00.
The modification requires that the two prong tabs be cut from the base.

It’s prongless. I did find another post from another user that ground it down.

Might take the saucer out and have a look at it.

Here's a pic from my game in case it helps...

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Whats the playfield pitch
It should roll in the saucer easely
Maybe wax a little too