(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

7 years ago


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#8701 32 days ago
Quoted from jamex:

In a friend's JP the light of the shot again always remains on, what can it depend on? Thank you

Test in menu the single lights

#8702 32 days ago
Quoted from jamex:

In a friend's JP the light of the shot again always remains on, what can it depend on? Thank you

Check the diode on the lamp itself... and if the diode is okay the manual/test function will tell you which transistor on the board applies to that light.

#8703 32 days ago

Very thanks

#8704 32 days ago

I am still having issues getting the Trex to pick up the ball. All switches test fine. I can't get it to stop on the middle switch however. If I push R or L he goes all the way in that direction. If I try to drop him as it moves past the middle switch it tries to work but have to keep moving L and R to keep it centered. In game he seems to try to lower himself while all the way to the R and hits the plastic. Does anyone have any thoughts on why this happens or what I can look at to fix it? Thanks for any help at all.

#8705 30 days ago

Does anyone have a list of flashers in JP?

Quoted from Tomass:

I am still having issues getting the Trex to pick up the ball. All switches test fine. I can't get it to stop on the middle switch however. If I push R or L he goes all the way in that direction. If I try to drop him as it moves past the middle switch it tries to work but have to keep moving L and R to keep it centered. In game he seems to try to lower himself while all the way to the R and hits the plastic. Does anyone have any thoughts on why this happens or what I can look at to fix it? Thanks for any help at all.

Is the middle switch working? I can only think it might be stuck on so it always thinks he's centered?

#8706 30 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I am still having issues getting the Trex to pick up the ball. All switches test fine. I can't get it to stop on the middle switch however. If I push R or L he goes all the way in that direction. If I try to drop him as it moves past the middle switch it tries to work but have to keep moving L and R to keep it centered. In game he seems to try to lower himself while all the way to the R and hits the plastic. Does anyone have any thoughts on why this happens or what I can look at to fix it? Thanks for any help at all.

Is it locked on moving in one direction constantly? If so, it's likely a transistor that needs to be replaced.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues

What's happening in game is the middle switch is getting triggered, so the game turns off left/right movement, and initiates the up/down motor. But your side to side movement is locked on, so it moves to the side while bending down. I would recommend unplugging the t-rex until you fix it. Leaving it locked on means it's grinding its gears once it hits the side.

#8707 30 days ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Is it locked on moving in one direction constantly? If so, it's likely a transistor that needs to be replaced.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-t-rex-side-to-side-motor-issues
What's happening in game is the middle switch is getting triggered, so the game turns off left/right movement, and initiates the up/down motor. But your side to side movement is locked on, so it moves to the side while bending down. I would recommend unplugging the t-rex until you fix it. Leaving it locked on means it's grinding its gears once it hits the side.

So the middle switch is working and in-game it moves back and forth but tries to scoop down while all the way in one direction. He seems to work fine except this issue.

#8708 30 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

So the middle switch is working and in-game it moves back and forth but tries to scoop down while all the way in one direction. He seems to work fine except this issue.

There are 2 transistors controlling left/right. One turns the motor on, and the other controls the relay that controls the direction. So you're moving left and right. That tells me the relay and transistor controlling it are good. Basically the relay makes it go one direction when not powered and the other direction when powered. So if the motor is locked on, and the relay is off, it will always be moving in that direction until the game energizes the relay and it goes the other direction.

So I want to know whether or not the motor is locked on.

In the manual test where you control it, move it all the way left and let go. Does it move all the way back right or perhaps it keeps trying to move left and you hear it grinding gears? Same test in the other direction.

A working t-rex will completely stop at any point in the full left/right range of motion if you're not pressing left/right.

#8709 30 days ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

There are 2 transistors controlling left/right. One turns the motor on, and the other controls the relay that controls the direction. So you're moving left and right. That tells me the relay and transistor controlling it are good. Basically the relay makes it go one direction when not powered and the other direction when powered. So if the motor is locked on, and the relay is off, it will always be moving in that direction until the game energizes the relay and it goes the other direction.
So I want to know whether or not the motor is locked on.
In the manual test where you control it, move it all the way left and let go. Does it move all the way back right or perhaps it keeps trying to move left and you hear it grinding gears? Same test in the other direction.
A working t-rex will completely stop at any point in the full left/right range of motion if you're not pressing left/right.

Ok, I am not in front of the game now, but it does not stop in either direction if I let go of the button.
Btw, Thank you for helping me on this.

#8711 26 days ago

I am rebuilding the flippers on JP because one of my flipper bats were a Williams and the other bat was cracked. Otherwise, the RH flipper was working ok. The LH one was iffy when hit by the raptor pit return.
In looking closely, I realized on the RH flipper I had Williams flipper parts. The plunger and the arm were definitely Williams. It is unlikely that the EOS worked correctly, if at all.

Anyway, most of you know where this is going.

I have only done the RH one because I did not know the DE flipper bat was cracked and I am waiting on this part to come in.
The correct parts installed on the RH flipper and now the EOS is an issue. The kit was ordered new.
I may have made a mistake by cleaning the contacts with a business card and alcohol at installation. The flipper works most of the time. When it quits, if I grab the switch and pinch it, flippers work. I see no damage on contact points.

There is plenty of tension on the switch contacts. They only open at the very end of the swing but do open wide enough to open circuit.
I soldered the contact points to the leafs ( after having had it apart several times). I noticed the contact point on one side is not the leaf with the contact point, it is the spring leaf but the 2 have plenty of contact. The old one I removed was the same way.
I also cut back to fresh wire and resoldered. It is NOT a cold solder joint.
IMO the contacts do not always make or not for a sufficient time for the board to see it. The fuse holders are fine and the LED lights up even when the flipper does not work.

Does bulletin 54 just bypass the EOS? If so, why make mod?

#8712 26 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I am rebuilding the flippers on JP because one of my flipper bats were a Williams and the other bat was cracked. Otherwise, the RH flipper was working ok. The LH one was iffy when hit by the raptor pit return.
In looking closely, I realized on the RH flipper I had Williams flipper parts. The plunger and the arm were definitely Williams. It is unlikely that the EOS worked correctly, if at all.
Anyway, most of you know where this is going.
I have only done the RH one because I did not know the DE flipper bat was cracked and I am waiting on this part to come in.
The correct parts installed on the RH flipper and now the EOS is an issue. The kit was ordered new.
I may have made a mistake by cleaning the contacts with a business card and alcohol at installation. The flipper works most of the time. When it quits, if I grab the switch and pinch it, flippers work. I see no damage on contact points.
There is plenty of tension on the switch contacts. They only open at the very end of the swing but do open wide enough to open circuit.
I soldered the contact points to the leafs ( after having had it apart several times). I noticed the contact point on one side is not the leaf with the contact point, it is the spring leaf but the 2 have plenty of contact. The old one I removed was the same way.
I also cut back to fresh wire and resoldered. It is NOT a cold solder joint.
IMO the contacts do not always make or not for a sufficient time for the board to see it. The fuse holders are fine and the LED lights up even when the flipper does not work.
Does bulletin 54 just bypass the EOS? If so, why make mod?

I know I'm not directly answering your question about the bulletin which I was not familiar with but I recently (a month ago roughly) rebuilt all 3 flippers and it was the first time I bought a kit and didn't automatically get the EOS switches with the kit. After rebuilding I would (occasionally) get the right lower flipper with no power mid game. I would check with my multimeter and see that the EOS which appeared closed had no continunity on it. I would squeeze it together and it would work fine again for several games.

It took me 2-3 manual adjustments with the switch adjuster (looks kind of like a screwdriver but bends leaf switches) to iron out all the issues and get it set correctly. I'm probably 30-40 games without an issue now.

So I think if you have a bit of patience and the right tool you can adjust them correctly. I ordered two new ones to switch out if necessary to have on hand but so far I haven't had to use them. Whether you keep the old ones or use new ones you will still need to adjust and get it "just right".

It sounds like you got new switches but cleaned them anyway (??) - I am not sure if what you did impacted them but I wouldn't think so. It is probably just a physical issue of getting it set just right.

Hope that helps you out.

#8713 26 days ago

Hello everybody,

Finally I managed to do this mod on the jp, thanks to a card of an Italian boy who runs 30 different effects on 2 led strips with different and selectable speeds when it is in stand-by, and more it is possible to operate a Different effect (It is possible to choose speed and duration of the chosen effect) by connecting it to a switch or a coil or a flash.
I placed the two strips on the bottom, one that illuminates the game plan and one, with a self-contained support, behind the writing when the Dinosaurus Ruled The Earth and I connected the card to the witch at the top of the ramp, so every time I can go around the ramp it activates a different effect

#8714 26 days ago

Hi everybody,

does anybody know where to find the amber mosquito playfield part (the orange block with the mosquito in it at the end of the dinosaur egg) ?

Mine is missing...

Thanks in advance.

Kind regards
Rene

#8715 26 days ago
Quoted from zztopper:

Hi everybody,
does anybody know where to find the amber mosquito playfield part (the orange block with the mosquito in it at the end of the dinosaur egg) ?
Mine is missing...
Thanks in advance.
Kind regards
Rene

Unobtanium, i saw someone place a epoxy mosquito egg shape some time ago

#8716 25 days ago

Does JP have any fading effects on the GI?
I'm debating leds but I quite like the feel of incandescents!

#8717 25 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

JP have any fading effects on the GI?

The game has a relay that controls the GI.
On/Off only.
The game has many on/off patterns during game play.

#8718 25 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The game has a relay that controls the GI.
On/Off only.
The game has many on/off patterns during game play.

The relay gets a little intense sometimes which is why the "less bright" and/or more natural LEDs are better.

#8719 25 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The game has a relay that controls the GI.
On/Off only.
The game has many on/off patterns during game play.

If CN7 is disconnected, it will keep the GI on at all times. No blinkie blinkie....

#8720 24 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

If CN7 is disconnected, it will keep the GI on at all times. No blinkie blinkie....

How many people have done this? I'm definitely thinking of trying this. Guests playing the game almost immediately remark how harsh it is. I got used to it but still think the blinking doesn't add much to it...

#8721 24 days ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

How many people have done this? I'm definitely thinking of trying this. Guests playing the game almost immediately remark how harsh it is. I got used to it but still think the blinking doesn't add much to it...

I did it, takes a few minutes to achieve, if you don't like it then plug it back in. I couldn't stand the blinking and glad I unplugged it

#8722 24 days ago

Has anyone tried fire leds for the topper lights?

Quoted from brainmegaphone:

The relay gets a little intense sometimes which is why the "less bright" and/or more natural LEDs are better.

What do you mean by more natural?
Do you mean in the GI?
Or the inserts?

Cheers!

#8723 24 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Has anyone tried fire leds for the topper lights?

What do you mean by more natural?
Do you mean in the GI?
Or the inserts?
Cheers!

I mean in the GI. What I meant was if you had LEDs that were closer to incandescent (versus like a 5x LED bright white bulb) the on/of relay wouldn't be as "extreme". I think regardless the flashing is a poor design choice in my opinion. In my darker game room it makes some moments in the game more difficult. I'm not sure if the designers intended that or not.

#8724 24 days ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

I think regardless the flashing is a poor design choice in my opinion. I'm not sure if the designers intended that or not.

I've always felt it was a design choice, as it sets the tone for various modes. The most obvious one I can think of is during Tri-Ball restart countdown. Tri-Ball starts during a thunderstorm so the restart timer feels like you're stuck in that storm with occasional flashes of lightning. I like the challenge it brings.

#8725 24 days ago

My DEJP slingshots stopped working during game play. I ran diagnostics and they both fired during the switch test — no faults were displayed. I reseated the CN8 connector on the MPU and checked switch connections. Any ideas where to look? The only recent work I did was a trough option board about a month ago. Thanks.

#8726 24 days ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

I've always felt it was a design choice, as it sets the tone for various modes. The most obvious one I can think of is during Tri-Ball restart countdown. Tri-Ball starts during a thunderstorm so the restart timer feels like you're stuck in that storm with occasional flashes of lightning. I like the challenge it brings.

I put LED flashers to light the topper and my god! They reflect off my ceiling and back onto the glass. It's crazy how bright and distracting it is
I don't know whether to keep them LEDs, look for less bright leds or go back incandescent.

I'm definitely avoiding LED flashers in the playfield, (except the two reds at the back).

#8727 24 days ago

Should my left flipper drop for a split second when hit by the ball from the raptor kickback?

The EOS seems correct and opens when flipper is held up

#8728 23 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

My DEJP slingshots stopped working during game play. I ran diagnostics and they both fired during the switch test — no faults were displayed. I reseated the CN8 connector on the MPU and checked switch connections. Any ideas where to look? The only recent work I did was a trough option board about a month ago. Thanks.

When you say "fired during switch test" do you mean that a ball hitting them shows the sling switch registering or do you mean that you can fire the coil when you test it?

We need to determine whether the coil isn't firing for the kickers or whether the switch simply isn't registering.

#8729 23 days ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

When you say "fired during switch test" do you mean that a ball hitting them shows the sling switch registering or do you mean that you can fire the coil when you test it?
We need to determine whether the coil isn't firing for the kickers or whether the switch simply isn't registering.

Yes, that needs clarification. Each kicker coil fires properly in switch test mode, but not when hit by a ball (or manually closing any of the 4 kicker switches.

#8730 23 days ago

Let me further clarify. During game play, the kickers do not fire when a ball hits them or when I manually close any of the 4 switches, nor do they register a score. They are dead. But when I perform the "switch test" in game diagnostics mode (page 6 manual), the coils fire in sequence when they are supposed to. The switch matrix chart, also on page 6, shows both the left and right slingshot switches are powered by CN8-7 GRN-BLU wire.

#8731 23 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Let me further clarify. During game play, the kickers do not fire when a ball hits them or when I manually close any of the 4 switches, nor do they register a score. They are dead. But when I perform the "switch test" in game diagnostics mode (page 6 manual), the coils fire in sequence when they are supposed to. The switch matrix chart, also on page 6, shows both the left and right slingshot switches are powered by CN8-7 GRN-BLU wire.

So in switch test - if you close the switches on the slings (with a ball or your finger manually) does that register? Because it sounds like the switch isn't registering for the kicker to know to fire.

Are the only non-functioning switches (as far as you can tell) the two slingshots?

#8732 22 days ago

Correction: it was not in the "switch test" that the slingshots fired but rather during the "cycling coils" diagnostics mode. During that test, I tried to manually activate the slingshots but they would not fire the coils that way. They would only fire during the cycling coils test cycle.

There are no other non-functioning switches.

#8733 22 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Correction: it was not in the "switch test" that the slingshots fired but rather during the "cycling coils" diagnostics mode. During that test, I tried to manually activate the slingshots but they would not fire the coils that way. They would only fire during the cycling coils test cycle.
There are no other non-functioning switches.

If you put the game into switch test (where it tells you what switch most recently closed) and you hit the switches on the slings does it register the switches as closed? Note that in this test mode the coils should not fire - the mode is simply designed to tell you whether the switches are registering as open or closed.

#8734 22 days ago

OK. I just put the game in "switch test again" and hit every switch on the playfield. All switches responded/registered correctly except for the 4 slingshot switches. They're still dead.

#8735 22 days ago

All of those switches seem to be powered by one conductor (blu-blk) from CN8-7 on the MPU according to the switch matrix chart. Could there be a break in that somewhere?

#8736 22 days ago

Just checked that wire - it's GRN-BLU.

#8737 22 days ago

Yes now we are getting somewhere. According to the manual they are on the same switch column.

Go back into switch test and test some of the other items in that column to see if they respond (the turbo bumpers, smart bomb button). I'm assuming your launch trigger works or you'd notice that quickly.

If those other ones work, it might be worth looking at the slingshot switches to check wiring and the diode (and make sure they aren't bent funny - did you recently replace the rubber around them for example?) I also pasted in the rest of the repair guide's thing to check after you look into what I just wrote---

If a Bad Switch is Found.
If a switch does not work, check these things:

On the top side of the playfield, make sure the bad switch contacts haven't been bashed together by an errant "air" pinball.
On micro-switches, check the actuator arm. Make sure it's adjusted properly. Listen for the micro-switch's "click" when activating. No click usually means the switch is mis-adjusted or broken.
Check that the wires going to the switch are soldered well, and haven't fallen off.
Check the continuity (using the DMM's continuity setting) of the daisy-chained wire between this switch and another working switch in the same column (green wire) or row (white wire).
If it's a blade or leaf style switch, check the contacts for proper closure. Clean the switch contacts with a business card (do NOT use a file as the contacts are gold plated). Put the card between the contacts, close the contacts, and pull the card through the contacts once or twice. This is all that is needed to clean gold plated switch contacts.
Check the switch to make sure it works. Use the DMM's continuity setting, and put one lead on the "common" lug (the lug to which the banded end of the diode connects) of the switch. Put the other lead on the green (normally open) switch lug. The meter should only beep when the switch is activated, and not beep when the switch is de-activated. Move the DMM's lead from the green to the white wire (normally closed) switch lug. The meter should beep when the switch is de-activated, and NOT beep when activated.
Check the diode on the switch. Make sure the diode is connected properly, and is working (see "bad switch diode" or "fail safe diode test" below).
Check other switches in that switch's row or column. Two 4041 chips control rows, and 2N3904 transistors and 74LS244 at 8J control columns. Both rows and columns are controlled by a 6821 PIA at 8H.

SWITCH (resized).jpg
#8738 21 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Should my left flipper drop for a split second when hit by the ball from the raptor kickback?
The EOS seems correct and opens when flipper is held up

Mine does this too, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's supposed to. I've debated trying to make some adjustments but I generally prefer to leave things alone if they don't negatively affect gameplay.

#8739 20 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I am rebuilding the flippers on JP because one of my flipper bats were a Williams and the other bat was cracked. Otherwise, the RH flipper was working ok.

MY EOS issue began after the rebuild. Therefore, either the rebuild or the rebuild parts are the issue.

UPDATE:

1)No one posted to answer if Bulletin 54 was just a bypass to address the failure of EOS. My guess is; it is. And, to me, since the failure would then go unnoticed, all is well. What I mean, is that once the bypass is installed to the board, the EOS may or may not work, it really doesn't matter. Unless you periodically test for continuity, the switch would/could remain bad forever. But, for all of that circuit board work, you could simply solder the wires together at the EOS.

2) I installed the first new EOS and had issues. Adjustment was not the issue. I have been doing this for a while.
Feeling I may have jumped the gun by cleaning the contacts with a business card (Perhaps that is too aggressive), I installed the second brand new switch included with the kit. (No cleaning at all) It worked great for about 20 games and after that, once in 100-150 flips, it was dead. Open circuit on switch even though contact points were touching securely.

Closely examining both switches, it was clear that due to the rounded nature of the switch. the actual contact point surface was very tiny. There should not be an arc at that point but clearly in magnification, the gold plating on both switches had been worn away in casual play. (or in the case of the first switch I removed it with the business card) The single tiny point of contact is no longer gold plated. It was either removed mechanically by the action of the switches or the transfer of power from one contact to another.
Since I still had the issue, and the switches were both unreliable, I filed the contacts down flat to maximize the contact.
I will see how this works. I had people over last night and the game had at least 20-25 plays without an issue. More test plays will be needed to see if the issue is corrected.

If it works out, I will retrofit EOS switches with the flatter tungsten contacts and try them out.

These are just my experiences on my own machine.

#8740 20 days ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

Yes now we are getting somewhere. According to the manual they are on the same switch column.
Go back into switch test and test some of the other items in that column to see if they respond (the turbo bumpers, smart bomb button). I'm assuming your launch trigger works or you'd notice that quickly.
If those other ones work, it might be worth looking at the slingshot switches to check wiring and the diode (and make sure they aren't bent funny - did you recently replace the rubber around them for example?) I also pasted in the rest of the repair guide's thing to check after you look into what I just wrote---
If a Bad Switch is Found.
If a switch does not work, check these things:
On the top side of the playfield, make sure the bad switch contacts haven't been bashed together by an errant "air" pinball.
On micro-switches, check the actuator arm. Make sure it's adjusted properly. Listen for the micro-switch's "click" when activating. No click usually means the switch is mis-adjusted or broken.
Check that the wires going to the switch are soldered well, and haven't fallen off.
Check the continuity (using the DMM's continuity setting) of the daisy-chained wire between this switch and another working switch in the same column (green wire) or row (white wire).
If it's a blade or leaf style switch, check the contacts for proper closure. Clean the switch contacts with a business card (do NOT use a file as the contacts are gold plated). Put the card between the contacts, close the contacts, and pull the card through the contacts once or twice. This is all that is needed to clean gold plated switch contacts.
Check the switch to make sure it works. Use the DMM's continuity setting, and put one lead on the "common" lug (the lug to which the banded end of the diode connects) of the switch. Put the other lead on the green (normally open) switch lug. The meter should only beep when the switch is activated, and not beep when the switch is de-activated. Move the DMM's lead from the green to the white wire (normally closed) switch lug. The meter should beep when the switch is de-activated, and NOT beep when activated.
Check the diode on the switch. Make sure the diode is connected properly, and is working (see "bad switch diode" or "fail safe diode test" below).
Check other switches in that switch's row or column. Two 4041 chips control rows, and 2N3904 transistors and 74LS244 at 8J control columns. Both rows and columns are controlled by a 6821 PIA at 8H.
[quoted image]

OK I think I've gone as far as I can go and I'm still stymied. The 4 slingshot switches check out with no faults or damage. The diodes on them check out too. There is continuity between all of the pop bumpers and the 4 slingshot switches (via GRN-BLU). Everything on the playfield works except the slings. If there was one bad sling switch, why would both slings not work? The GRN-BLU wire is common continuity confirmed to all of the other devices. I can't think out of my EM box on this one. I was expecting to find a broken GRN-BLU connection somewhere between the sling switches and elsewhere but there isn't any. The sling coils are good because they both fire during the coil test.

#8741 20 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

OK I think I've gone as far as I can go and I'm still stymied. The 4 slingshot switches check out with no faults or damage. The diodes on them check out too. There is continuity between all of the pop bumpers and the 4 slingshot switches (via GRN-BLU). Everything on the playfield works except the slings. If there was one bad sling switch, why would both slings not work? The GRN-BLU wire is common continuity confirmed to all of the other devices. I can't think out of my EM box on this one. I was expecting to find a broken GRN-BLU connection somewhere between the sling switches and elsewhere but there isn't any. The sling coils are good because they both fire during the coil test.

Assuming you can manually operate the switches (using your meter confirm that when the switch closes the meter beeps) then it might point to a CPU board issue.

#8742 20 days ago

Breaking news. I just ran another switch test of the entire column: both slings are dead but so are all three pop bumpers. The rest of the column switches -- captive ball, smart bomb and launch trigger do register. Somehow I must have missed testing the 3 pops. I turned the game on to confirm these test results. So that must mean that the fault should be somewhere upstream on that GRN-BLU column. I will diagnose much further with the DMM for the culprit. Thank you very much for your indulgence. I'll find it, I swear.

#8743 20 days ago

When I had a similar issue with controlled lights (on a DE JP) I found it was the chips on the board. I diagnosed it by looking at the 7406 which controlled my bad row and compared it to the other 7406 next to it (that I knew was good) and checking each pin on it to see if it was shorted to ground.

According to the troubleshooting guide your suspects are: "Two 4041 chips control rows, and 2N3904 transistors and 74LS244 at 8J control columns. Both rows and columns are controlled by a 6821 PIA at 8H."

I'm rooting for you. I know you can find the problem! Good luck!

#8744 19 days ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

When I had a similar issue with controlled lights (on a DE JP) I found it was the chips on the board. I diagnosed it by looking at the 7406 which controlled my bad row and compared it to the other 7406 next to it (that I knew was good) and checking each pin on it to see if it was shorted to ground.
According to the troubleshooting guide your suspects are: "Two 4041 chips control rows, and 2N3904 transistors and 74LS244 at 8J control columns. Both rows and columns are controlled by a 6821 PIA at 8H."
I'm rooting for you. I know you can find the problem! Good luck!

You lost me at the “troubleshooting guide” quote. I don’t see that in the manual. Am I missing a technical document?

#8745 19 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Breaking news. I just ran another switch test of the entire column: both slings are dead but so are all three pop bumpers. The rest of the column switches -- captive ball, smart bomb and launch trigger do register. Somehow I must have missed testing the 3 pops. I turned the game on to confirm these test results. So that must mean that the fault should be somewhere upstream on that GRN-BLU column. I will diagnose much further with the DMM for the culprit. Thank you very much for your indulgence. I'll find it, I swear.

Test the 2N3904 transistor and compare it to another next to it. These 8 are in a row above the CN8 connector.

#8746 19 days ago

Turned out to be one of the most common, basic faults in pinball (both EM and SS). Can you see it? I didn't find it until this morning. It was hidden, so I made it obvious for the pic. The switch daisy chain stopped here. Thank you for your moral support! Sorry for all the trouble.

culprit identified (resized).jpg
#8747 19 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

Turned out to be one of the most common, basic faults in pinball (both EM and SS). Can you see it? I didn't find it until this morning. It was hidden, so I made it obvious for the pic. The switch daisy chain stopped here. Thank you for your moral support! Sorry for all the trouble. [quoted image]

Congrats. I do like me some free fixes.

#8748 19 days ago
Quoted from fixintoplay:

You lost me at the “troubleshooting guide” quote. I don’t see that in the manual. Am I missing a technical document?

Congrats on fixing it! Glad you got it sorted out. I was referring to the Data East Repair guide online. (google "data east repair guide" as it is on several different online websites you can access).

1 week later
#8749 9 days ago

Howdy, I have an extra NIB Tim's Gate Mod that I would like to sell. Tim came out of hiding last year during the lock down so I bought 2 from him. I installed one, and the other is just collecting dust on my shelf, so I thought I'd put it into circulation. DM me if interested. $300 shipped USA.

IMG_20210530_132351_1 (resized).jpg
#8750 9 days ago
Quoted from Inferno:

Howdy, I have an extra NIB Tim's Gate Mod that I would like to sell. Tim came out of hiding last year during the lock down so I bought 2 from him. I installed one, and the other is just collecting dust on my shelf, so I thought I'd put it into circulation. DM me if interested. $300 shipped USA.

[quoted image]

Sold

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