It definitely should deliver consistently to the left flipper. You may need to adjust (bend) the top of the scoop. Or...if you have a cliffy on the scoop make sure it isn't bent. I had to remove my cliffy, add some bondo to smooth out the edge of the hole and then reattach the cliffy.

Yes, I can. I have Titans on mine.

These rubbers appear to be different sizes? Is this correct?
One must be 3/16 OD and other 7/8 OD?
20210318_181547 (resized).jpg

The rubbers on this game still confuse me!

I upgraded to the newest code.

Does anyone notice how fast the MR DNA choices are scrolled. I have yet to be able to get the choice I want because it is about a 1/2 a second to pull the trigger and by then it is on the next one. Now I pick the one before the choice I want to get the correct one.

Has anyone upgraded lately and noticed the difference?

Its in the design notes.

Yes it was sped up so it was more challenging.

I am already challenged!

I am trying to help a friend fix his JP. His dino moves left and right and slightly up and down, but will not bend down to grab the ball. I noticed a spring hanging and was looking for a pic that shows where to attach it. Can someone snap a pic to share please?

20210315_164711 (resized).jpg

20210315_164709 (resized).jpg

20210319_081600 (resized).jpg

Here you go as per your request.

Gord

DSCN3441 (resized).JPG
DSCN3442 (resized).JPG

Thank you!

On another note, does anyone know what these connectors go to? Also he has wires just hanging out. Not sure where they go either. Both are in the cabinet. Thanks for any help.

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On the right side, optional printer.

On the left, someone removed the knocker. I bet the strike plate is still on the cross beam.

Pinball life sells a new assembly.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-knocker-assembly.html

Thank you so much! Helps a ton.

Hi everyone I have a big problem with my jurassic park data east. At the start of the game, the left flipper stays up for a few seconds then blows the F3 fuse on the flipper board. I tried to change the coil but same exact problem. The relative LED, also on the flipper board, continues to light up regularly when I press the left button. Can anyone help me on which component to try to change? Thank you

Hurray, I changed the transistor q10 on the flipper board and now it works fine, for safety I tested the diode of the coil (disconnecting from one side) and it was ok. Thanks to everyone, I'm happy because I don't know anything about electronics and these are small successes for me

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My solution to making the outlanes less hungry... Also replaced the spikey post on the right outlane with a typical one from other games that holds a rubber.
Is this cheating or a common idea?

Can't say I'm a fan of those original DE metal posts.
In some locations there were star posts where there could be metal posts and vice versa, hard to really know how it was from the factory?

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Theres a unboxing of a JP somewhere on the youtubes, maybe you can see there?

Do you have the EOS amendment kit to your game?
Service Bulletin No.54
Jurassic Park, Last Action Hero, Tales from the Crypt.
Kit 500-5821-00.

In the JP I made the change as per service bullettin 54 Data east,, in the tftc no, the flipper board is like factory exit

I am still struggeling with the right VUK switch. The arm (actuator) on the switch snapped off, so I am trying to make my own arm.

I cant get the arm to trigger when the ball sits in the cup, but it triggers with my finger.

PLEASE, I really need a pic! It would really help if someone could take a pic of that arm! I want to see if I am doing right where it touches the ball cup.
PLEASE

Here is my (non-working) solution:

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No wonder why a short actuator doesn't work here. Use the manual, the correct microswitch assy is listed there.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5064-01

I know that part but couldnt find it in Sweden, so I am trying to do my own arm to look like the one in the picture.
However, it is hard to tell how it looks like at the end, where it "connects" to the ball cup.
I need to see a pic mounted on the game.

Thanks

jesperpark thanks, the 2nd pic was pretty helpful. Still though I need to see how the arm touches the underside of the ball cup, couldnt tell from the pictures since there is no ball cup in the 2nd pic.

Thanks a lot for trying mate

Looks like your compression spring is upside down.

Hi, I will have to rebuild the wood of the holes because very ruined, after I put protections, which of the 2 is better for jurassic park?

Screenshot_20210321-192437 (resized).png

Or these

Screenshot_20210322-045449 (resized).png

The vast majority of people seem to go with the cliffys. Since you mentioned that the hole needs to be rebuilt, the cliffy will cover some of the art (which is good...since it is gone!)

An update regarding the right VUK switch arm:
After HOURS (!!) of trying to make an arm for the switch, I noticed that the switch do register now, while in diagnostic mode, BUT it says that it is switch nr9 "Through #1 Left", while it should register nr61 "right VUK"!! So it seems that the wrong switch registers when the ball hits the VUK switch, no wonder why the VUK dont fire then.

It seems that the wires going to the switch have the right colors.

Where to go from here?

Check your diodes, a bad one will mess up the switch matrix.

Oh, thanks that sound good to check!
Well should I check all diods on all switches, or can I narrow it down to only test the ones within the same column/row?

Very thanks

Anybody want to sell one of these it’s close to St. Louis within a couple hours? PM if so.

Thanks
Rob

Start with the one on that switch, I'd replace it just on general principle. 1N4004 is very common diode, I keep about 50 in stock they are so cheap and common failure item.

Hi, great forum this!
Previous issue is solved, it was the diode

Now a new issue: dino picks up ball but it stays in his mouth. He tries to swallow 3 times but often without success.

I read other posts about this. One post mention the up-switch, but this is checked and OK, there is no slack further back when pushing my finger on dino while he is in up position.
I dont think it is the playfield incline (angle) either.

The only thing I found that I havent tried yet is this:
"There's supposed to be a black rubber pad behind the t-rex where the plunger arm from the coil presses into when the t-rex stands up."

So I wonder if anyone can describe where I find this black rubber? I dont understand the desciption.

Many thanks!

I had the same problem and it was a bad jaw link. Replaced that and problem went away

Today my T Rex started dropping balls before reaching his upright position.

He picks the ball up but chomps his mouth once on the way up, dropping the ball.

What could this be?

Up switch registration too fast? Go into test mode and test

And

The exact same thing happened to my T-Rex. As read in other posts depends by a broken wire between the 2 that arrive at the coil on the back of the T-Rex. Put the trex all down through the test, disassemble the plastics around and follow the wires, you will find the broken sheath somewhere. It does so because when it's down the broken wire makes contact and stops while the T-Rex goes up. Sorry for my English

I think I understand! It's like he opens his mouth once and its enough time to drop the ball. So it could be a wire that is stopping the coil from holding his mouth closed for a second while he moves?
I'll check this out later

He opens his mouth and closes it quick , which I guess is enough for the ball to drop out.

I didn't think of checking the up switch. I had a look around and couldn't find anything untoward, but I suppose knowing how he works makes sense, he only knows to start biting when upright and the ball has already entered the subway.

The wire harness has a micro break...
Note: stated a long time ago... one needs to replace the wire loom with
----- a new one and add a "loop" to it at the bend pivot point.
----- In order to keep the harness from the stress of the bends [ up & down]
----- that "cut" the wire harness in the first place.

Do I need to remove the T-Rex body to get to the wire?

Yes, Because the coil is on the back, you have to start where the wires start from the coil and go back

I guess this is the problem?

20210328_185224 (resized).jpg
I can replicate the issue by holding the trigger to keep his mouth shut then manually moving him up with my hand. I can find the spot it happens and if I fiddle with that cable it doesn't happen...

So that's the loom?

Anyone that has scanned playfield plastics and can share the files?

I found some old posts but with outdated links.

I want to try to make my own plastics, so hit me if you have any scanned plastic - especially the slingshot plastics.

Thanks

Does anyone have a scoop light mod that they would like to sell?
PM me, thanks

3E7BEAB1-F857-476A-B70E-5ADD36B674EC (resized).jpeg

PM me your email.

Does anyone know of a resource for the graphic that's inside the start button? Mine is split into a few pieces, and would like to print a new one.

Thanks!

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/wgami3qYtA36QM4W8

I created my own file - feel free to use and share! I disassembled the start button, removed the cracked plastic "start" disc and replaced it with this graphic, printed in color on a piece of paper. It looks great!

One question regarding the start button - the light bulb was never working on mine, since I got the machine. Now that I have a working bulb in there, I noticed that it's always flashing, even after I press start and during game play. Is this normal? Or should the start button be off during game play, like on most pinball machines?

Jurassic Park Start button copy (resized).png

Hoping someone with a pinsound and using the endproduckt mix can check something for me. I'm getting what I think is a weird sound when the ball goes up the ramp and the same weird sound during the after-ball bonus. The best way I can describe it as a cut-off sucking sound (shoo). Can someone post what they hear when the ball goes up the ramp / bonus screen?

I tried to take a video but it's not great...