Anyone tell me what this means? Freeze skill?

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There is audit "46 freeze used - Skill", and "47 freeze used - Raptor". Remember, JP says "freeze" when a ball save occurs.

The manual says that audit shows the total number skill shot ball saves and the other is the total number of raptor pit kickout ball saves.

(page16)
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/J/Jurassic_Park_OPS.pdf

Hey everyone, I'm a bit new here and just got a DataEast JP machine a few months ago. After cleaning and replacing worn plastics and other parts I've noticed that when playing the game the left flipper will sometimes stop working. The coil itself will buzz when the left button is pressed but does not seem to do anything else. I've also noticed that if I take the coil off, and re-seat it sometimes it will fix itself but only for a short while.

Another question, Do other people get air-balls when shooting the raptor shot with the ball kickback? My balls sometime seem to fly off over the lane on to the plastics above and sometimes in to the back loop lane.

Thank you

Check EOS switch for good contact. When the switch is open you have only hold voltage. Assuming the switches are still wired in. For the airballs is it when you hit the posts next to raptor pit or the raptor coil sends it airborne?

I am looking to light the banner at the top of the playfield and will likely go with the Comet LED light strip.
To those who have done this:
How long should it be?
Should i use 2 shorter strips rather than 1 long one?
Should i get the dimmer as well?
Thanks
Cliff

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jurassic-park-refurb-for-my-army-son#post-5680214

Got it.
Thank you!

Its is a cool mod to do and adds a nice subtle glow to the back of the playfield if you don't have the brightness cranked too high. You can see one picture where I had not installed the brightness control yet and its pretty bright.

For power, I clipped onto the GI off the backbox lighting.

You're right, it would make a very cool mod, if a 6.3V 20" led strip was still available somewhere. Comet is out of stock. Titan doesn't offer any. Add a dimmer to the spec and it looks like it's unobtanium (at least for 6.3V appl.)

Frosted, that is! I read where clear is too harsh on the eyes, unless the dimmer can control that?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jurassic-park-will-not-boot
Thought i would attach this here for future viewers.

With regard to the 20" strip, i looked at Comet and it was listed, i didnt check to see if it was actually in stock.
I really want to light that banner at the back of the playfield. If it isnt, i will add some sockets and LED bulbs.

Mine was a clear strip which looks fine if you can get the dimmer or add a resistor to the circuit.

The EOS switch seems to be working fine, I took some really light sandpaper to the contact points a while ago and when they touch by pressing the left flipper button the coil buzzes as if its trying to fire but doesn't.

as for the air-balls it is when the ball hits the side metal railings it seems to fly off at random times.

The EOS switches are problematic and you should not be using sandpaper on a low amp switch as it removes the gold coating. You may have to try cleaning it again.

I ordered a batch of stuff from Comet today including the clear strip, dimmer and other Matrix gadgets. Thanks again gdonovan for the tips.

I will be next.....

After I fixed the previous problem (which took me ages I played and enjoyed the game.
However, suddenly, in the middle of a game the machine just stopped, I restarted it and it does not start. Like nothing happen when I turn the machine on. no noise, no movement. Only some lights are on.

On the PS board the test point for 5v circuit is measured 0v so I guess this is a lead to the problem...
I checked all fuses on the machine (header and cabinet) but they all seem fine - I disconnected them and tested for connectivity and all were fine (connectivity test in the meter bipped

Any advice from the team?

Use ohms for checking fuses, not the beep.

You’ve lost the five volts - after checking the fuses, pull out your schematic and work your way back from the test point. It’s possible you have a bad fuse holder or a bad rectifier.

A schematic is your friend and can help you troubleshoot.

Also,
Look close at C2 and C3on PS. Do they bulge, are they leaking?

Looking for Pee Wee Park mods!

I know you are, but what am I?

I'm still LMAO over pee wee mods. Put me on that list.

My DEJP came with a missing upper right shield which I was advised by a few pinsiders "wasn't really necessary cause the ball never gets up there". Baloney. Balls get stuck in that cavity area from time to time, which is clearly why DE designed that shield in the first place. I have been looking for a replacement ever since with no success. So I got tired of the hassle and made one myself. My skill set does not include plexiglas bending. It ain't pretty, and it's not my best work, but it does the job. If I find a decent original replacement, which I'm guessing is highly unlikely, I'll swap it out.

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I finally have some photos to share of the new JP subway ramps. Special thanks to gdonovan for helping make this project a reality! Switch brackets are included, so you won't have to do any riveting.

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Have I missed something? Are you making these? Is so, Awesome! My mounting tabs near the VUK were gone and someone made a hack to mount it. I'm 99% sure all my VUK misses are due to that.

If your ever in need of the top ramp let me know and I can send one to you.

Yepper, making these available again since so many are missing the tabs. https://rampomatic.com/collections/data-east-ramps/products/data-east-jurassic-park-subway-ramp?variant=37904387702967

Marco still has that one available, so it will not be on my radar until after theirs are no longer available. Thanks for the offer though!

I think Pinballlife as well.

My VUK took several tries to get the ball up and over when i bought it.
One of the legs of the wire form had a broken weld right at the playfied. It absorbed the energy and it made completion intermittent.

I decided to make a Baffle kit for this machine as I own one and love it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/109904

I'm installing a 20" LED strip to the rear playfield. First time I've used Comet matrix parts and this piece was included with the order. Not sure what the function is. At first I thought it might be the dimmer, which I also ordered and received, but it has no adjusting screw. The label said "with connectors", so I assume it's to be used with the strip? Thanks.

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Oops. Just found the footnote on their website - it's a flicker eliminator!

I recently completed a rebuild of my flippers, and the game plays sooooooo much better, highly recommended! I do feel like when the flipper is up, it's not trapping the ball like I used to?

They're aligned to the holes, just like last time, but it's definitely not as easy to catch the ball like it has been in the past. Maybe this is by design, but wondering if there are any tips for helping?

Pic included

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With the new coil stops that are not warn down, the distance the flipper travels will be less, so they stop a bit lower. No harm in adjusting the flippers up a bit if you want.

Hey guys,
Anyone know where tu buy this plastic? Preferably in Europe.

Thanks!

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Pinball center sells complete sets
But i think i once heard the colors are a little darker

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/

Type jurassic park its somewhere in the middle

My JP has a post on the right outlane but not the left (this seems common?).

I do find JP is a drain monster so I'm considering adding a post to the left,(although it will sadden me to make the hole).

What posts do people use? And will it lessen the value by adding another?

Thanks, I saw that too. But really only need this 1 plastic, must be sold separatly somewhere?

If anyone is looking for Tim's pinball mods fully functioning gate send me a message I have one and am looking to sell it. Perfect shape!
Here is what it looks like and works like.
https://www.facebook.com/TimsPinballMods/videos

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Just selling as I'm about to sell my game. The gate is awesome and love it when it swings open. No pitfalls that I've encountered.

Ahhhh, figured that was the case, just was hoping there was a way to adjust the flippers while keeping the alignment with the holes. I guess the positive is that it'll help me get better at doing live catches!

In the Manual indicates code 180-5124-00 for the Switch of the Low Flippers. On sale in Europe I found the code 180-5124-01, is it equally okay? What are the differences?

thanks

I don't know what the difference is but it looks like -01 replaces -00. Pinball Resource mentions it in their listing: http://www.pbresource.com/KT-DEFLIP.html

Very thanks

Has anyone replaced the outlane posts with star posts?

Is this cheating ?
I find the outlanes on Jp very upsetting

My pops are so sensitive sometimes the ball stays in the pops and drains after the ball save has gone out, I guess might have to adjust them again.

Thank you to Mr_Tantrum for helping me upgrade my trex and data east logo!

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Yup, sounds like cheating. Have never seen a star post there but it seems like it would block the ball 100%.

When the ball gets near the top of the slings, nudge forward to keep the ball out of the inlane/outlane area.

My playfield has a predrilled pilot hole right at the top of the left inlane guide. looks like they originally intended to put something there but took it out for some reason or originally planned a longer inlane guide to reach that hole. The only thing that might work would be a funhouse style bare post and not choke off the inlane and reduce oulane draings to zero. Don't know if a bare metal post would do anything since it doesn't have rubber to dampen it.

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Guys I think I've been misunderstood!

I mean replace the metal post with a star, it's only a little bit bigger?

I had a spare one, this is what I mean.

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I've got this on the right outlane. I don't think I should put a rubber on that post officially?

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I thought unless it's too much cheating, to put clear star posts on both sides. But keep the metal post on right (the one with the white rubber on)
I'd install one on the left but I really don't want to damage the playfield so the star post seemed like a good idea to make the gap a few mm smaller?

Just damn! This game has the most evil slings and outlanes. Even worse than my Black Rose that has no posts!

I see you added an extra rubber to the metal post to make it fatter? I guess that's another idea.
What rubber have you added to the top of the ball guide?

Operators could put a slim post there if it was desired.

I replaced the metal posts on my DE Star Wars slings with clear star posts which makes the game more lively. The ball would hit the top of the posts sometimes and just go "thud." This is not always a good thing because sometimes it bounces it right into the outlane too!