https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-improved-t-rex-work-in-progress

They did a Color DMD for Popeye, surely they would sell way more of Jurassic Park!

I kinda like the orange monotone color. If they were to do a Color DMD, I'd want it to be simple. Very minimal use of color. 3-4 different colors tops. I've seen some where they use every primary color. Looked too much like a childrens coloring book. But if they could do very subtle tones, I'd be all for it.

No. Wrong. Bring the color.

For that you can just do DMD Extender. I have my JP set up for 4 colors.

Having said that, I'd prefer full colorization.

never been downvoted so much before.

ebay.com link: JURASSIC PARK DATA EAST SEGA Pinball Flipper Cushioned Armour Mod 3 piece set
These are cool

Why would you want a JP3 icon on your flippers?

Not everyone knows/cares about the difference.

I've had a couple people see my JP and immediately associate it with the newest movie.

When I unloaded mine, an 8-10 year old kid was walking by, and said "Hey, that says Jurassic Park. Is that Jurassic World?"

Then he went on to ask about what that dinosaur was that they brought out at the end. I wanted to say, "Are you serious?"

Saw those. At first thought, I thought they messed up which game they were meant for. Then realized, they didn't make a JP3 machine.

20150801_194800.jpg

My machine is missing a bumper post above the lane divider(can be seen in the picture) i need to know what it looks like and where to get one. hopefully it is one that is easily obtainable. also what type screw holds down the post?

Thanks in advance for any help, Mike

Should just be a mini post and 3/8" rubber just like on the right side. At least that's what I have.

There isn't one installed there from the factory AFAIK, just a dimple if you want to put one. I would almost consider that to be devaluing the game because you'll be driving a new hole into the pf that will be there even if a future owner decides to remove the post.

Someone suggested in an earlier post putting a small rubber on the outlane post there if left drains are driving you crazy.

Thats how its supposed to be. Don't change it!

Fixed my machine. Will try to remember to take and post some photos tonight. The machine looks NICE! A bit brighter with the warm white LEDs, but at least no dark spot in the center of the playfield.

About the only thing that needs tweaking are my slingshots, the ball doesn't bounce like I'd think it should. At first I had the leaf switches super sensitive. But then gapped them a little more, since I figured the ball wasn't being hit very hard because the arm was pre-maturly firing before it was able to make a solid impact with the ball. But now with the larger gap in leaf switches, it still isn't firing too hard away. And takes more force to trigger the leaf switch.

The slingshots were completely rebuilt. New coil sleeve. New coil core. New arms. But after this replacement, it acts like it did before the rebuild. I wanted super sensitive, super flingy slingshots, and I just don't have that.

Also the left bunker scoop doesn't fire the ball out too fast. Was hoping for a quicker return. I rebuilt that coil as well.

Mine too arent so sensitive, as opposed to x-files where the ball is flung in superspeed away if it even dares to look in the direction of the slingshots

I havent done anything to my slingshots though. I see it differs quite alot between machines, maybe biggest difference between new sterns and older W/B games...might be just because of age or if it hasnt been taken care of properly? Answers are welcome

I was hoping to get to current Stern slingshottyness. But its not happening. Not sure what the difference would be. Like I said, pretty much everything except for the coil is new. Maybe the coils just aren't that powerful?

Yes, this is all you need to do.

Might be worth trying a more powerful coil. Please post back if you try it

There's a setting for coil strength somewhere in the menus, maybe the adjustments menu. Check it out and see if its on a low setting.

This thread is getting dull. How about some photos to look at?

Tons of things fixed, replaced, and cleaned.
- LEDs throughout. Including all flashers. (all warm-white frosted from Cointaker.)
- Rebuilt Flippers.
- Rebuilt Slingshots
- New VUK
- New Raptor kickback
- New autoplunger plunger
- AnyPin NVram
- Updated to latest USA software. Was Japan
- Rebuilt pop bumpers. Used black skirts to blend in. But now I think I should have gone with blue.
- New Coil Sleeves and springs on everything else.
- Replaced Egg target
- Replaced one target that wasn't machine correct
- Added back one target that was never there
- Added spotlight cone to "Shoot t-rex box"
- Cliffys
- Loop Combo Scoop Mod
- GoodtobeDad Gate
- New rubber throughout.
- Washed every piece of plastic with soap and water
- Flame polished ramp and subway
- Polished up metal guide rails throughout. Some were very oxidized.
- Flipped back around t-gate. Before it would block the ball from the shooter lane from entering pop-bumpers.
- Replaced a few posts
- Replaced non-standard ball eject saucer
- *Next Week* Will be adding light to T-Rex saucer and lighting up scoops from underside.
JurassicPark-1.jpg
JurassicPark-1-2.jpg
JurassicPark-1-3.jpg
JurassicPark-2.jpg
JurassicPark-3.jpg
JurassicPark-4.jpg
JurassicPark-5.jpg

Very nice looking JP. Good job.

Gord

you sure about that?

Adjustment 33 - Coils Pulse

Normal, Hard, or Soft

Hard increases strength by 12.5%. Soft decreases strength by 12.5%

If you've got new parts all around then I'm sure you've already done this but replacing or cleaning your slingshot leaf switches makes a difference too (at least I thought it did, but I could have been imagining it!). My theory is that the faster the switch activates once a ball hits it, the more energy the ball receives from the slingshot arm.

Leaf switches on sling shots are brand new. But cleaning them is a good idea. Hadn't thought about that. But should have, because my brand new left flipper button leaf switch had problems too with connectivity.

borat_nice.jpg

Love the black skirts on the JP pops. May have to do that to mine.

RussM

Thanks. The idea was to put the focus on the ball and the lit caps. Concealing the actual switch. The closest color on the playfield next to those pop bumpers is black. So figured black would hide really well. And it does. But really wish those things were easy to swap out, because I'd like to see what other colors look like.

But I like them enough to not change them.

Anyone upgrade their speakers on JP? Was it worth it? It was something I thought I was going to do, but was wondering if the source files are even good enough to use better speakers. And my subwoofer already seems like it has pretty good bass.

Another question. Anyone know what spring this is? The part number shows no results on Pinball Life or Marcos. I replaced it with something else, but isn't strong enough. The ball keeps falling from the wire ramp. After some careful watching, I noticed that when the ball is traveling faster, it hits the diverter arm, and moves it just enough so that it's not a smooth transition, and knocks itself off the tracks. Was thinking of doubling up springs on it.
spring.jpg

Ive heard its very worth it. I would love a video to prove it before I spend the dough.

You could always pull the spring out and stretch it quite a bit. That should add the tension back to it.

A video would be very hard to tell. Would depend on the mic the audio is recorded on, and the speakers your playing it back through. So end the end, both the old and new speakers may end up sounding quite similar in a video.

The closest thing I can think of to test with, is Virtual Pinball. I could plug my high end speakers into my computer to see if the sound quality is better than what's coming out of the machine. But even then, I wouldn't be able to tell if the replacement speakers would be able to reproduce the previewed quality.

I think the true way is either hear it for yourself. Or get a trusted person to respond.

I haven't tested it but I think a good sub would be awesome on JP. Lots of the sound effects use bass. Those dino roars would be epic!

I have hooked up a mains sub and it cranks. Love it with the "feed T-rex" mode. Each footstep is so enhanced plus the shaker motor makes it a crowd pleaser

Please explain how you did this.

Plain ol alligator clips to the cabinet sub on one end, speaker wire input to a powered sub on the other.

*STOMP* * STOMP* *ROAR*

a powered sub with JP is pretty much mandatory... adds allot to game play.

FF on mine made a huge difference in what you could hear

Well that sounds easy! Shit!

Finally after some downtime the park is open again! I did my first board transistor soldering and it went well

Issue: The machine went into slam tilt when plunging the ball.
Troubleshooting: revealed that whenever a switch on column driven by Q50 was hit, it fired all switches on that row. When having playfield up in switch mode it randomly fired some switches. Upon closer switch inspection for that column, I found that the mosquito switch was almost always closed, that is, closing randomly. That led me to believe that during a game the switch must have stuck for too long and killed the transistor. Tested the transistor and it was surely Danny D.

SOlution: Remove dead transistor and solder on a new. Start game. Play!

IMG_20150811_211409.jpg

Welcome back! Mine was down for awhile with some board issues, it is such a relief to get these bad boys back up and running!

Husband replaced all three speakers in our JP with high quality car audio speakers then added an external powered sub. It's in a room in our basement with no windows, but Feed T Rex can rattle the sliding glass doors that are about 20 feet away if we turn the volume up about halfway. Highly recommended.

He originally did the alligator clip temporary method with just the sub to JP and a couple others we got subs for, but when he upgraded he hardwired everything in JP. He's going to hardwire the rest as well since it reduces feedback a bit and we never change up machines. Look for the Polk subs to go on sale around Thanksgiving on Amazon. I got ours for like $69.99 each shipped last year.

Alright, so I've been messing with my Jurassic Park...not really knowing what I was doing. Today I was trying to track down why the TOP EJECT (VIO / BRN) and DIVERTER (VIO / BLU) weren't working. I traced both wires back to a a common plug J2 on the PPB BOARD. While in coil test mode I tested each coil on that plug. Everyone worked except for those two. Now by accident I reversed two of the plugs. One of these plugs was the TOP EJECT (9). All of a sudden it was firing, however the other coil wasn't working. Now I probably shouldn't have done this, but I decided to also try the DIVERTER (4) in this working slot. Again it fired. At this point it seems logical that there wasn't a problem in the wiring or coil. It seems that the issue is somewhere on the board. Does anyone have any suggestion for what I should test or look for next?

So I'm getting worse. I took of the PPB BOARD for inspection. The the naked eye everything looked good. Nothing obvious. I reinstal the board and now most coils don't fire. Is there something fairly obvious that I might have failed to do when putting the board back into the machine? Maybe related, but when I put pressure onto the board (tightening screws) the VUK and/or Launch Ball coils fire. This machine is driving me crazy.

Alright, I replaced one of the 8A fuses which tested bad. Went back into diagnostic mode. I was testing the coils, which seemed to be back to where I was at originally. Then *pop*, *sizzle*, smoke! The issue seemed to be coming from the transistors on the lower left hand side of the CPU board. Seriously.

EDIT: Doing some reading this seems like it could be the route of the problem. Guess I'll have some practice wiring.

Newbie to JP question. How big of a deal is it if the T-Rex eats the ball about say only 75% of the time? Does it effect gameplay at all? Thanks

Only if a failed meal attempt sends the ball out of control. Software-wise the game awards everything then the ball rolls in the saucer so unless it is the saucer switch playing up then you'll get credit for everything correctly.

Almost almost finished putting final touches on my JP. Hopeing to maybe put together an accurate list of how many bulbs and what types you'll need, for those who want to build their own LED kits. Also planning on making a better list of rubbers too. The manual is incorrect, so that means all pre-assembled kits are wrong too.

But was doing some tweaking to my light scoop mod last night, testing different bulbs. And boy, don't bother with the Coin Taker Cool White "Wide" bulbs. They were too dim to really notice.

But am kicking myself for making a very dumb mistake. One that I've been trying very carefully to avoid. I snapped the plastic where the light bar mounts on the upper right scoop, next to the gate. Was trying to reposition where the lights were aimed at the scoop mod, and *Snap*. Clean break. I think I have an idea on how to fix it. Take some transparency paper, cut it to the size of the plastic, and glue a piece on top and bottom. Hopefully that will reinforce it, and keep it strong enough to hold the lights up.

Oh no! What plastic did you break? I would suggest using thin lexan/acrylic and cut it to shape. You would only need to use it on the bottom so it should be a completely invisible reinforcement.