Quick question for the group - The backbox lights behind the title "Jurassic Park" always flicker somewhat on my machine, while the rest of the backbox lamps do not. Is this normal / intended?

Here's a video of how and where the backbox bulbs typically flash or "flicker", as you call it, at end of game but it's optional. (Fast forward to 750 to see them):

The original bulbs behind the Jurassic Park lettering are flashing/blinking bulbs.
They should blink like the lower bulbs in the video posted above.
It is normal and intended but you can put regular bulbs in if you like, its nothing special about the socket, it is a specific bulb that gives that effect.

Any help or tips on this?

My right bottom flipper also just stopped working . Top right still works fine, but I spot checked the connections and everything appears to still be soldered on.

What kind of lamps are the ones that flash at the bottom of the translite? My (LEDs) are fixed

Thanks

Last row:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/168#post-5985823

Sorry it is the bottom row that should blink not the ones behind the lettering.

The bottom row behind the actors is full of blinking bulbs.

Thanks, so my lamps are steady and not flashing because I put normal 44 and not 455?

If you're sure you've ruled out all the usual suspects, it can't hurt to determine if this service bulletin has ever been done to your game. Pretty simple to find out, really. It was never done to mine, and it solved all my weird flipper issues:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb54.pdf

Exactly.

Correct. I just have retro led in mine with a fire/twinkling led behind the fire on the right side. Any 455 in the circuit will cause the rest of the led in the string to flicker which I find irritating. You can install flashing led but they all start at the same time and will flash in sync for several minutes before drifting out of sync and looking more random.

Went to wrap up the LED job on this today and I just can't get the backbox to not glare like a SOB. I ended up putting just a few bulbs, and all incandescent, back in for the 'JURASSIC PARK' lettering. I don't like the color (I much prefer the cool white effect but that's way too bright); going to order a few more red flex bulbs for the top and I'm going to put a couple of spotlights on the playfield.. is that the best way to tackle the glare? How did you all light your backglass?

20201216_145119 (resized).jpg

20201216_145449 (resized).jpg

When you LED the backbox, leave half the sockets empty to get the brightness down to a reasonable glare level. Remove some more if the glare is still to much. That worked fine for me, and the backbox is still plenty bright and the illumination looks even.

Many thanks, is it better to use normal 455 lamps or to put 455 LEDs to get a nice effect?

Factory installed 26 of #44 incandescent bulbs in the backbox. With LEDs installed in their place, that's too bright, and too many for most players' eyes. Neal_W advice of staggering them is helpful, but use #47 incandescent bulbs instead of LEDs -- they're softer and much less intense. And they're super cheap and very obtanium.

Comet makes a nice retro bulb that has a pretty mellow light and you dont have to worry about GI connectors catching fire due to amp load and age.

Yes, have “sunlight” throughout my JP, highly recommend them.

Hi, the bottom right flipper bat has stopped working, its light in the flipper board card does not turn on. It is not the switch in the cabine because I inverted it with that of the TFTC and on that pinball it works while it does not work in the JP. It is not the flipper board because I inverted it with the tftc and on that flipper they work while on the JP the light does not turn on with both board.
What can be dependent?
Thanks

Anyway thanks but it started again, I cleaned the eos and unsoldered and heated the double black wire. Anyway, I will pass to a 520-5076-00 card as per data east bulletin

After 2 games the problem came back, I cleaned the eos switch again and it got back to working regularly, the problem is on that switch

The bottom row on my backbox do indeed blink, as intended, but the lights behind the Jurassic Park lettering flicker (not blink), so it sounds like I may have a connection issue somewhere...I'll have to take a look.

455 in the back box will make other lamps in the GI circuit flicker.

Can someone explain feeding T Rex in normal gameplay?
If you feed him the first second or third times you get a point value on the dmd but no points are awarded except for the final and fourth feed.

I'm on the custom rom

From here:
https://www.pinballcode.com/jp6

T-REX Bounty

Original: Starts at 7.5M. Increases by 500,000 per T-Rex saucer shot. Also increases by 100,000 per ramp shot. DOES NOT reset between games. Collects/resets when player makes four T-Rex saucer shots in one game (or in one ball if Adjustment 44 “T-Rex In Memory” is set to No). Tournament mode: The letters in T-REX reset at the beginning of each ball and the T-REX Bounty also resets to 7.5M.

Update: Starts at 12.5M. Increases by 2.5M per T-Rex saucer shot. Also increases by 1M per ramp shot. DOES reset between games. Collects/resets when player makes four T-Rex saucer shots in one game (or in one ball if Adjustment 44 “T-Rex In Memory” is set to No). Tournament mode: The letters in T-REX reset at the beginning of each ball and the T-REX Bounty also resets to 12.5M.

Hi

My jurassic park data east has the original 520-5033-03 flipper board and because of this I have the eos switch problem. From service bullettin 54 Data east I can replace it with 520-5076-00 but I can't find one, or change mine as the service bulletin diagram but I'm not good, is there a video or a guide that can help me?
Thanks

jamex , If you can find the electronic parts (R+C+D), I can make some clear pictures how to install them.

or have a look here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/81#post-4149580

Hi zaza yes I think I can easily find the required components, it would be wonderful if you could make a photographic guide, I am grateful to you

Edit: found the diagram in GnR and Batman forever's manual, but still would appreciate and actual photo if anyone has that board sitting out.

Hi everyone. I am trying to rebuild my flipper board 520-5076-00. I botched the removal of the capacitors C15 and C16 and damaged some traces (stupid mistake D'Oh!). If anyone has one handy, can anyone get me a picture of the traces on the back side so I can make sure I have things repaired properly? the diagram I found is pretty poorly photocopied.

@jamex,
Will do, tonight (european time) I have some time to make a guide.

I have a Jurassic Park that will not boot up. When I flip the power switch the right Vuk and the Raptor pit coils fire and hold on, as well as the Vibrator Motor until F5 Fuse on the PPB Blows. I have tried disconnecting each coil and unplugging the vibrator. If the Coils and Vibrator are disconnected the F5 fuse will not blow, but the game still does not boot up, I get nothing on the Screen. The GI comes on and stays on. I have tested each coil and diode and I see don’t find anything wrong with them. The issue feels like it is further up stream, possible CPU board that controls these things.

Looking for any help in Troubleshooting, or Steps to further pinpoint my issue, Thanks.

Thank you very much, you are really super nice, thanks thanks thanks

There it is ...

520-5033-03 modification2 (resized).jpg

Very nice!

Can you update these pictures and embed a description of what this is for future people coming across this?

done

Hi zaza

Hello, thank you very much for the photographic guide, it is very clear, thanks again. I would have, if possible, 2 questions: in the post you indicated to me earlier the resistor plus the diode were soldered on the opposite side of the resistor compared to your photo, is one part indifferent? My salesperson sold me 100v capacitors and told me they're okay too, right? Thanks again

Polish_20201224_092044633 (resized).png

Not visible in that picture but I'm quite sure it is on the left side of R23, just like the picture i made.

Should be ok but usually larger package.

Very very thanks

Thanks very much to @zaza, a very kind and helpful person, a lot of admiration for you. Today I made the modification to the card and I hope I have not done any damage, the flippers works spectacularly, they never lose power. Only once did the lower right flipper stop working for a second and then it was perfect again. Only thing, I had to use 100v capacitors because I didn't find the 50v, I hope they go equally well, is there a way to mount the resistors? I couldn't figure it out

20201224_165903 (resized).jpg20201224_165908 (resized).jpg20201224_165914 (resized).jpg20201224_165934 (resized).jpg20201224_165938 (resized).jpg

That is wonderful news @jamex,

The 100V version of the capacitors is fine.
Personally I would have shorten the wires of both capacitors and stick them under the flipper board.
The same for the diode+resistor. When the wires are shorter, it will be sturdy enough and no need to mount it somewhere.

Congratulations on the successful repair.

Sascha

This was exactly the issue. There were a couple of old incandescent bulbs in the bottom row, which is on the same circuit as the Jurassic Park letters bulbs. Replaced them with new LED lamps, and problem solved! No more flicker.

Is perfect, very thanks zaza

Merry christmas

Perfect ! Time to enjoy the game

Merry christmas, jamex

Finally pulled the trigger on a Color DMD as a holiday present (to me!)

Looks awesome. In case you needed one more fan to recommend it...it’s a very worthy upgrade.

Edit: the instructions to install are pretty bad. These youtube videos were definitely helpful:
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AFA805DA-16B5-4AD7-AF50-BBD98243B706 (resized).jpeg

IMG_20201227_191509 (resized).jpgHi everybody,
Il ve just made some changes in the lightning above thé scoops.
l ve always found the metal brackets awful, and I dont undestand why Data east didnt provide something tout hide the wires IMG_20201227_111906 (resized).jpg

Ive tried to make some teanslucent plastic stuff, but I was not happy with tbe result, as it hides the bumpers.....IMG_20201227_111135 (resized).jpg

Data east made a better choice with the next pin, Last Action Heroe68348865c9bd368002a322e3f526540b0884004 (resized).jpg

So I decided to go this way.
First, I ve screwed new bulbs brackets in an horizontal modeIMG_20201227_120721 (resized).jpg

Yes, you can see the wires, but the work is not over yet.
I screw an hex post :
IMG_20201227_125550 (resized).jpg

Then, I cut a new plastic in a 2mm sheet, sanded it, and attached it to the new hex post.IMG_20201227_161625 (resized).jpg

Looks better now.
I still have to stick some jungle pic underneath the new plastics, but Ill post other pics when done.

I went with mr tantrums covers and slaped a sticker on it , makes them look more like the gate posts with the lamps.
I Like your solution too!

20201121_102633 (resized).jpg

WOW.
This took me ages to fix and as you can expect the problem was minor

It had nothing to do with the speakers they were perfectly fine.
I replaced the wires connecting to the speakers as they were in a real poor condition but this did not solve the problem.
Before fix:
bad_speakers_wires (resized).png

With the new wires:
fixed_speakers_wires (resized).png

I tried to check the capacitors as the good guys here recommended:
However, I saw on the web that checking capacitors involved taking them off the board which is something I believed will cause more problems than will help
and also my multimeter is not enough to check capacitors
This is my multimeter:
multimeter (resized).png

However, I looked at the boards and all the capacitors looked very good (as you can see here):
board_overview (resized).png

At this point as I watched the board for bad capacitors I identified the problem. The wires connector into the board was mostly burned. I guess it was not woired properly and with the time it started burning itself as you can see here:
burned_wires (resized).png
burned_wires_2 (resized).png

At this point I had to wait for a friend who has the right tool to rewire this plastic. This took some time.....
After replacing this plastic connector with a new one and rewire the wires into it all problems were solved and disappeared.
The speakers worked perfectly and the game does not restart itself anymore.

Very easy solution eventually, it just took me ages.

Thank you all for your help. You rock.

My conclusion: A guy should have all required tools and not wait for friends to come....... But what are all the tools needed?

While you're borrowing tools, the header pins for the connector should be replaced, too, otherwise, in the future you will be replacing the connector again. Since the connector pins and wires burned, there's no reason not to think that the header pins are burned, too.

For future reference, any time you have burned pins or connectors, both sides should be replaced at the same time.