Hmm so it is a normal post. I just assumed mine was wrong because balls kept getting past it, i replaced it with a star post and that solved the issue.

Just acquired a JP a couple weeks ago and it came with a couple nicely burned connectors along with a hack that I’m kicking myself for missing when inspecting before purchase. So my question is, has anyone encountered this on the PPB board before? At first I thought they’d just bypassed the connectors because they didn’t have a replacement, so I rebuilt the two (CN8 on the power supply & J5 on the PPB board) while cutting and taping the hack wires they used to run to the fuses on the PPB. After this, the playfield GI all stopped working. Let me disclose that the back of J5 looks a little toasty and I’m guessing that’s why they did this in the first place. Also want to mention that I re heated the solder on the back of the board as well. The one problem it did solve was the lower GI in the back box started working. Any help would be greatly appreciated but I’m thinking I may need a new PPB board. Thanks.

E3D87799-FA5A-41DC-A512-AB1F1EA587F7 (resized).jpeg

I have a constant speaker hum that is very noticeable and annoying in attract mode. I’ve searched this phenom here but found no solutions other than remounting the sound board on nylon washers. Wondering if this issue is common to DEJP design? If so, is there a way to reduce or eliminate the hum? I tried ferrite beads around sound board cable bundles to see if EMI might be the cause, but they had zero effect. I had a similar issue (even more noise) with my Jokerz and solved it by installing low-ohm (24 ohm) resistors to each of the 3 speakers. Would be interested in any ideas or advice. Thanks.

There is a whole thread on Data East speaker noise with several solutions.

Pinsound and eindproducts /mr tantums Remix
And original soundpackage also
So you can switch between them
Or make your own

Here's the thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-speaker-noise-ideas-for-a-cure/page/12#post-5948781

Nylon washers got rid of 80% for me, but that remaining 20% is still quite noticeable. I may look into the dedicated power supply as described in the thread, but not really sure its really worth sinking any money into this machine at the moment (for me). Not much play on any of my machines lately.

Nylon washers also got rid of 80% for me too. I have the parts to try the buckboost(?) board to see if it knocks down the rest, but my hopes are not high.

I'd settle for 80% hum reduction if that was possible. But not with my DE JP. The nylon washer trick must be unique to certain games. I tried it today on the sound board. Hum intensity remained unchanged. Not surprised: my board has no means of metal to metal contact or path to ground anywhere on either side of the pcb with any of the 4 mounting screws -- they're isolated and float anyway. So I don't understand how nylon washers could possibly change anything. The buck booster idea makes sense, tho, and is worthy of a try at such a low price point.

Who knows why, but it did help mine. Seems 50/50 whether it helps or not. Simple to try. If can get the time to do the wiring on the buckboost and then plug it in we'll see if it works.

I went with a separate power supply method on 2 DE games. I would say 70 - 80% of the hum was eliminated. It went from really noticeable, to has to be really quiet in the room and you hear it.

The Ball would get wedged in that one spot.

fixintoplay - Just checking: did you place the washers on the BACKSIDE of the board, to isolate from the ground plane? Not sure if there is variation in board design, but on mine there are no electrical traces on the top-side near the mounting screw holes; they're on the backside.

Yes. Installed on the back side of the sound board. Odd that yours is different. I should have taken a pic so we could compare. No traces or pathways. Either side. I’ll have the buck boost parts next week and will post results.

Need a picture of the back of the board. Maybe missing a trace to a fuse holder? Fuses test good off the board?

@fixintoplay, On my board, the ground plane is exposed on the backside, in the area near the screw thru holes. This is how ground is connected, via surface to surface contact. I had thought, incorrectly, the screws themselves might offer some connectivity; they do not, as the screw head does not contact anything. Nylon screws had no effect.

Report back how the buck-boost thing goes.

Yes, fuses test good. I will post a pic later today. I’m going to be taking both boards out. Thanks.

Hi guys,

For those who have lights into the scoops (bunker and control room), instead of those awful metal posts, where to you exactly install bulbs (ou led strip), and where do you route the wires ?

Not really plenty of space there imho....
Thx.

Has anyone put in car speakers as an upgrade? If so, anything special you have to do or k ow of a good pair that works? Thanks!

As I’m figuring out while shopping mine. The list is totally inaccurate for sure.

Had to jump one of the fuses but all good now. Thanks.

Update: I built the buck booster assembly for my DEJP per pinballgiant's post #565 (under topic "Data East speaker noise - ideas for cure"). Thanking him for the advice supported by video and list of materials. Nice work. The buck booster he used was out of stock on Amazon -- I'm guessing pinheads bought them all up like toilet paper -- so I searched out another one with nearly identical specs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FY6QQP3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

This inexpensive hack works on my DEJP, is very easy to build and presents a clean, neat install. Hum is essentially gone. In fact, the hums from my other pins now are a lot more noticeable. Had some weird science stuff that never happened before going on after install, though. Machine-gunning right flipper during play, loud knock and odd sounds at power down, etc. (The flipper machine gunning finally stopped after 2 games.) I continue to monitor for other side effects. But overall, I'm pleased with the results, and I really like that the assembly can be easily disconnected and removed at any time.

Update 2.0:
Just discovered a recent post I had not seen before about a step that should have been performed before plugging in the buck booster assembly. Russdx points out (post #591):

"Don’t plug this into your audio board without setting the 12v output as can range from like 5 to 18 depending on the pot. Plug into game power first and using meter adjust until you get 12v before you plug audio board in" Good advice. My unit measured over 18V out of the box.

Where are we supposed to measure that? at the sound board connector?

The way I did it: pulled the new connector to the sound board and let it hang. Popped open the new enclosure, then powered up the game and measured voltage across the 2 "out" points on the buck boost pcb inside. The pot on the one I bought would only let me adjust down to 12.4V so I'll have to live with that.

Hello Everyone,

I'm checking to see if there is enough interest to run another Data East opto board batch for 2021.

Details:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/interest-check-data-east-ball-trough-opto-board-

Thank you.

PM sent.

Can someone show me what type of post is supposed to be by the left most pop, near Jeff Goldblum's head? The JP I'm working on seems to be getting the ball stuck over there a lot, I'm wondering if he has the right post there. Is it supposed to be a star post?

20201128_162854 (resized).jpg

20201128_162900 (resized).jpg

20201128_162912 (resized).jpg

Also, the metal 'tunnel' (excuse the poor terminology) under the T-Rex head..is that supposed to move, at all? I was called out to address two balls being stuck in the T-Rex head and it turned out that that piece was rotated and therefore jammed the movement of the balls through the lower plastic ramp. Moved it back over and everything worked fine and I couldn't reproduce the problem. Seems like it's pop riveted in place on the sides that did feel secure?

20201128_141649 (resized).jpg

20201128_141653 (resized).jpg

Sorry, last question of the night.. are the majority of the bulbs (both GI and controlled/inserts) bayonet? Trying to make sure I'm properly stocked prior to next week when I go LED this thing. Seems like he had lots of wedges but an earlier post here was saying the game is primarily bayonet. Help?

GI are #44 bulbs in the backbox and playfield. Insert lamps are a combo of #44/#555.

I put a star post in and problem solved.

I hope it helps. My detailed list, contains name of the inserts, colors, area, bulb type. Summary at the end (without flashers).
Colors are helpful if you want color LED at inserts. Note: in the backbox, there are 455 blinking bulbs (bottom row).

JP LED.jpg

This is a huge help, thank you! I really just wanted to make sure his machine wasn't going to eat up my entire bulb stock on any one color. With 14 red bayonets I definitely wanted to jump on another 25pk while they were on sale. Other than white, which I should have plenty of stock of (I added 4 more 25pks of sunlight bayonet) I think I should still have plenty of stock afterwards.

I probably could have just left it be and been fine, but now is obviously a better time to buy than say in February.

Thinking I'm just going to do the same. Did you end up using one long rubber between the two posts and the rail or did you use individual rubbers on the posts and let the rail be exposed?

Search for my posts in this thread. I did a breakdown of all the bulbs and their locations when I swapped mine to led

Hello all,
Owned the game for a couple hours- got one of these once in a life time deals. 3 games: STTNG, JP, and Batman Forever for $5k.I was only interested in the STTNG ,and sold the other 2 games to friends the same day for 2200 each. I am now fixing up the game I sold my friend.It started with an intermittent right flipper.This turned out to be the L1 IC chip.Installed socket and 14 pin chip and back in business. From there -replaced all 3 skirts on the pop bumpers. Replaced all rubbers- some in the pop area were 1/2 the thickness of the new rubber. I found several of the fuses to be too large- so I really recommend looking at this for any second hand game.Also the CN8 header pins on the power supply board were gone- replaced by a couple mountains of solder for the lighting power and returns-someone had used spade crimp terminals and all the connections were scorched. It was easily fixed with new 9 pin header.Lastly installed Cliffy protectors for the 3 scoops.
Think I found one more issue - and that might be the ramp exit switch must not be getting activated- as I have yet to see Mr.DNA. I am not that familiar with DE diagnostics- but I think the game only reports a stuck-on switch. I will try activating the switch with a ball and see if it registers. I only found out about the Ramp Molecules by reading the manual.

Reading further in the manual I see that there was an addendum for Dino Update Kit- looks like this game is operating on version 4.04. I see that version 5.13 is available for the CPU and also newer versions for display and sound.I guess my question to this group is: Is it there significant change in gameplay by the installing newest EPROMS? Also there is mention of a new crank arm as part of this upgrade- is this part readily available?

Sgorsuch

There’s an aftermarket eprom that helps game play - instead of the modes always starting on stampede, the mode starts are random. There are other things, but to me that is the biggest.

Mr DNA happens after you hit sets of drop targets or modes - I don’t remember which. Mr DNA is available when the green light above the scoop is lit.

Yes- that was all it was. The exit switch at the top of the ramp was not registering- the screw holding it down to the ramp was loose and in a position to not have the ball activate the switch. I had removed the ramp for access to the pops and just had not secured it properly. It was exactly as scootss had said 3 times and hit the bunker to collect.With the switch working now- i see the diverter in play. i had not seen it activated prior.Thanks.

Here's the site from Chadh, you can read all the changes in the new code

https://www.pinballcode.com/jp6

Its a must have for JP
You can buy the roms in the pinside market somewere
I believe matt sells them

Yes, Matt’s Basement Arcade. A must have.

I'm looking to buy a set of side art blades for my DE JP...let me know if you have a spare set!

I'm also looking for a plastic - the piece that goes around the pop bumper behind the Control Room Scoop (circled in yellow on this pic).

Thanks!

jpplas01 (resized).jpg

Any suggestions on this one? I think I'm good to go on the post near Jeff's head (going to starpost it) and I should be squared away on doing the LED conversion--I'm well stocked and ready to do that, dreading the desoldering of some of the GI in order to avoid doing a full topside teardown, but it'll be fine.

But I'm definitely unsure about this piece, if it should have any movement at all..and if not, how to at least prevent it from moving even if it's just a quick temporary fix until I can offer him a more long term 'proper' fix.

Rexie got claws!

20201205_141553 (resized).jpg

Thanks for this- ordered today. I tried to find a friend with a EPROM burner, but it looks like I am too excited to upgrade this game.

I have been having a blast with this game- and the right flipper failed again. So I reasoned that there must be a bad diode either on the coil or on the flipper board that is bad that is corrupting the IC chip on the flipper board. Sure enough- the diode on the coil was the culprit. Back in business, and anxiously awaiting the 2 EPROMS. Thanks again .

Eproms delivered - thanks Matt's Basement Arcade.

Im now looking for a miniature pink handbag

Look at Barbie accessories

So I just rebuilt my flippers, using the kit from Marco Specialties. Highly recommended, I feel like I can now consistently hit the ramp!

After replacing, I found that some of the insert lights seemed to be lighting incorrectly. Examples include the spitter mode and electric fence lights working simultaneously, along with the top brachiosaurus target and "x" from T-Rex lighting up together as well.

Looking through the manual, it appears that row 3 and row 4 of the lamp matrix table seem to be the culprit here. Any ideas on how to fix this, or what is happening? I'm wonder if I bumped a wire or something while soldering the wires back to the flippers.

Any help is much appreciated!