Been looking haven't seen much.
CPR had it on a interest list for while but they aren't doing that anymore, don't know what happened from there on.

I had very nice success touching up minor dings and scrapes inside (and outside) my JP cabinet using a paper towel, with a wipe-on wipe-off approach. The paint seems to stick to the necessary areas and wipes off the painted areas; no excess/brush marks. There really is no visible difference between touched and untouched areas. Used rustoleum satin black from a half-pint can.

The same approach work beautifully on the small amount of planking on the cabinet exterior. They are now fully invisible.

dup

Thanks very much. Picked up that rustoleum based on another recommendation but will give the paper towel a shot.

I tried this and have to respectfully disagree with your claim of "fully invisible" if you are recommending enamel vs latex - you didn't specify. Rustoleum has both. I chose oil-based satin black enamel because it's more durable when cured. It's true that color's pigment/density off the shelf is a close match to the original, but whenever the slightest light reflections come into play they stand out as obvious. Rustoleum's black satin finish appears flat against the glossier stock DE paint (even after it's aged for 27 years). The original has much more of a semi-gloss finish. Touched up areas on mine are now visible and noticeably duller when light catches them at various angles. I'm letting mine cure for a couple of weeks then will try buffing out the touched up spots in hopes they will blend in better and be less obvious. If so, I'll post results if anyone is interested.

Please do!

I'm curious if anyone has ever had DE/Stern "Flippers/End of Stroke Failures" technical service bulletin mod #54 done to their JP flipper control board, either by themselves or a previous owner. I have this problem on my DE JP as well as a number of other owners. The bulletin's fix is supposed to cure spontaneous/intermittent lower flipper drop out due to "invisible blade cracking inside the EOS switches". It does not recommend changing out the switches if the owner opts to do the control board mod. I became suspicious when I took apart the EOS switches on mine and found no such "cracking" in the blades. So I'd be very interested to know if the mod actually solved the problem for anyone else. Thanks.

Copy of bulletin #54: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-flipper-board-updates

Which is why I just fogged the whole area. Finishes of black are extremely difficult to match perfect and if you can just paint corner to corner so much better off. It will all be even then.

Hmm, my results are still invisible. I went down int the basement just now to confirm. I actually used "Valspar Satin Black Latex" in a 1/2 pint can. There's also a rattle can down there - I have never used.

I've been touching rusty spots up our camper's frame this week - THAT'S where Rustoleum was used. Sorry any confusion.

Yup, it wasn't too bad but I can solder pretty good.

You can search this whole thread for "54" and a few other posts come up of others who have done it w/ photos.
I didn't have any issues to begin with but I was just bulletproofing.

Hello,

I present to you my Jurassic, fully restored, Playfield protector, pinsound plus pack, pin2dmd, new cabinet decals, etc...

Kiss from France

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Glad my question about cabinet painting has causes so many different responses

In case anyone is interested...the rest of the story is that I need to clean up the area near the backbox hinge bolt (pic below). The small plastic disc is missing and there is a prior adhesive covering the spot. I have the plastic disc...but first I need to sand a little bit to get off the adhesive and then paint.

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Cant you use alcohol?

It's quite stubborn, but I'll give it a shot and report back.

Stunning. Beautiful work. Congrats.

Hey JP friends!

So I had a few friends over the other weekend, and the youngsters we're having a ton of fun playing with the machine. After they left I played a few games and noticed that the right flipper just didn't seem like it had the same "juice" as it did before? I tried it again the next day and still it's just not nearly as strong as the left one.

Both flippers still rest in the proper spot, but when I hold the buttons in on both, the right one just doesn't nearly go as high as the left. See pictures.

Is there something I can adjust or fix to help with this, or am I better off doing a full flipper rebuild? Appreciate the help!

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Look at the stops under the playfield

I checked the coil stop, and it looks just fine - no missing rivets or anything. It's slightly punched in but nothing that I think would cause this kind of issue. Also, if this was the culprit, wouldn't that mean the left flipper would be the one that's working incorrectly, as opposed to the right one which isn't feeling right?

I did notice that the small black rubber stopper that the flipper rests on while it's resting on the "notched" coil stop (when the flipper is down) seems to be incredibly warn down. I'm wondering if replacing this would help because the flipper wouldn't be traveling as far?

The right flipper would be sagging lower than the left at rest if the rubber was the culprit.
Both flippers have "coil stops" so the left flipper has nothing to do with it.
The coil stop is the piece that the plunger hits when its engaged. The piece that it rests on is not a "coil stop".

Rebuilding the flippers on an old game is usually not a bad idea anyway, I can probably help with that but you should check all parts on the right flipper and make sure it operates smoothly by hand.

This piece at the end with the brass ring is the "coil stop".
If the nub on that moves at all its bad, it should be tight.

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If anyone's looking for some nice scoop bulb covers that aren't quite as expensive as the Loop Combi set (which are awesome if you dont mind the cost), I present these alternatives:

I 3D print them from translucent filament, color/paint the icons, and glue in the color bulb of your choice. Bulbs optional, designed to fit Comet 1SMD NG bulbs. They light up beautifully, nicer than the photos show. Plug and play, no modifications required.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04290-scoop-bulb-covers-for-jurassic-park-de

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Does anyone need a Trex body and lower jaw plastic housings? I'm cleaning off my parts shelf and have an extra set. PM me if you need them and will work something out. Thanks!

I have a problem with the machine which I tried to solve in the last few weeks but could not. If someone can help me, I'll be most grateful.

The 'music' stops in the middle of the game.
Only the 'noise' remains. In 'noise' I mean the reaction of the machine to the ball, for example, the sound of dinosaurs when the ball pass in the inlanes or when a new Screen starts.
Then after some time, the music returns.
Then disappears again.
Many times, the machine even restarts itself in the middle of a game.

This is the problem.

I tried to diagnose:

First thing, I looked at all the wires connecting to the speakers and replaced the ones that were very damaged. However, the problem remained.

Second, I disconnected (I actually cut) the 4 wires connecting to the header speakers (2 wires to each speaker), so actually these 2 speakers were disconnected and only the cabinet speaker was wired and working. The problem still happened.

Third, I also disconnected the wires to the cabinet speaker. Now the game had no speakers and it played without noise.
The problem disappeared. At least the problem of the machine restarting itself as there was no music and no 'noise' that could disappear anyway

Fourth, I wired again the header speakers.
I must tell you that it caused the machine to sound very 'robotic', metallic and unpleasant.
But as regard to the problem it returned. The music disappeared during play and the machine restarted itself.

What do you suggest me to do next? What should I look for? How will you go on and diagnosed?

Any help will be appreciated

Check power supply and connectors there.

Check/replace the capacitors on the sound board, along with checking the power supply voltages and connectors as suggested above. You will need a voltmeter.

Thank you. I'll check and update on progress

Amusing/annoying followup ... it happened again last night, and this time I resolved to stop band-aiding it and do a better job with the fix.

I was more right than I realized ... because this time, the tab completely broke off the switch!

New switch on order...

I’m in!

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Does anyone know where I can find the Amber Mosquito? Can it be reproduced?

My JP is missing it unfortunately.

Thanks

I was having trouble with that switch and I ended up eliminating the solder and using crimp connectors. I haven't had a problem since. No matter now good of a job I did soldering it always eventually cracked. Just make sure your connectors are tight.

That's a good idea, thanks for the suggestion. What about the diode? Did you feed that into the connectors too?

I am brand new to this site. I purchase a JP 2 years ago. It has been working great but recently developed a problem. When the ball is ejected in to the chute, the mechanism that kicks the ball into the chute fires an additional four times even though it has already done its job. Until it has done this, I cannot fire the ball into the play field (nor does the raptor appear on the digital screen until it has done this). Any suggestions?

It almost sounds like the shooter lane switch is not detecting a ball in the shooter lane right away. You may want to test that switch using a ball in the switch tests from the diagnostic menu. If it is inconsistent you may need to either adjust or replace the shooter lane switch.

Gord

I spent free more days on checking the wires. No luck...

I have a voltmeter. But I do not what exactly to check in the capacitors or how. Same for checking the power supply.
I'm a bit dummy here. Can you please give me a reference?

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega is the place to go for info.

A capacitor tester is a different device than a multimeter. Since you don't have one, look closely at the capacitors. Are any swollen or blown apart? Are there crystals around or under a capacitor - that would indicate the capacitor has leaked and needs replaced.

Using the voltmeter, you put one lead on ground, and the other on the test points on the board - the schematic will show the expected voltages. Make sure you know whether you're looking at DC or AC voltages and set the meter accordingly.

Actually the diode is remotely soldered from the switch. This wasn't my work it came this way. I could be mistaken on which switch you're talking about. The switch between the two scoops has the remote mounted diode and that's the one that I added connectors to. The switch under the left scoop has a diode soldered in but there's a dab of hot glue over it. That wasn't my work as I haven't had problems with that switch so maybe the hot glue is also a good idea. Hope this helps.

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Such great timing that you'd post this because I was just about to re-post a question I'd never gotten a definitive answer to: I have these two random wires hanging down that aren't connected to anything and they were driving me crazy. Everything works on the game so I didnt know what they were for. Based on yours, maybe mine was wired the same at some point but then was later set up with a standard switch/wiring.

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The color coding on the wires match , I'll bet that's what it is. You have wires from a diode that go no where so as long as that diode is good I would use the wires and set it up like mine. But now on yours I see the two wires on the 1 lug all the way to the right , where do those go ? Because I don't have that.

After continued tweaking with the flippers, I think a full rebuild just makes the most sense. I know the previous owner had it for almost 20 years, and while it didn't get a TON of play, the flippers definitely weren't rebuilt at any time.

I've done some digging in this thread, and am seeing that the kit by Macro Specialties (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6306-20) seems to be a good option. I'm also going to grab some rubber grommets (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5105-00), as mine are mostly shot. I noticed the kit doesn't include new coils, should I be picking up these as well? Anything else that would be beneficial to replace (flipper wise) while I'm rebuilding them?

You should not need new coils. Replace the rubber on the flippers while you’re at it.

Suddenly, I have no play field surface lamps working on the lower half (from bunker down thru outlines). Could someone provide direction as to where to look or check? Maybe a connector, but which one? Nothing appears amiss. All other functions work fine. I just finished installing Titan rings and new flipper bats. Thanks for any advice.

The 9 pin connector on the PPB top left and the 9 pin connector upper right on the power board.

Will definitely check each of those. Thanks.

PinHero gdonovan to the rerscue again! Checked both connectors. Can't believe I didn't spot this awful hack on the PPB sooner. Someone did a sloppy job using 2 connectors with spliced wires to replace it. Notice the #F3 5A fuse in the bank below it is blown too. I'll be busy fixin' this one. Also found a burn mark on the power board's 9-pin connector. Does that one look bad enough to replace? Thanks!

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If anyone has a clear photo of the correct PPB nine pin connector with the correct wiring, I would very much appreciate seeing it posted for comparison's sake. I don't trust the way the wires on this one are arranged. Looks like one is missing. Thx

The connectors and HD terminals are cheap, I keep several sets on hand. GPE would be my first choice for parts and Marco if Ed is out of stock or tied up at the moment.

I finished the repair today on the PPD hack using a new IDC connector and header. I have the hand insertion tool and parts I had ordered from pinballlife. All lights work great now! Probably go the same route for replacing the burnt molex connector on the power board since I already have the IDC parts in stock.

So while attempting to install a new post on the far left pop number, I think I'm realizing that my machine isn't exactly "stock" when it comes to this part of the playfield.

I've done some looking at other pictures for comparison, and it seems like all other machines only have one post at the left of the bumper and not a SECOND one on the right like mine does? See picture for the hole where it gets installed.

I'd like to have my machine as stock as possible, so I am thinking of not re-installing it, but I'm worried about the ball hitting the screw hole and acting erratic? Also, from a visual standpoint it looks kinda janky with the a hole just sitting on the playfield like that. Pretty bummed about it, but am trying to think of ways to remedy this. Any tips from fellow JP owners?

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I'll have to check later but I think the post the rubber is on is supposed to be a star post, i had an issue with balls sneaking through there and getting stuck when I first got mine which is why someone put an extra post there on yours I guess.
The holes probably won't affect ball travel.

Here is what my far left pop bumper looks like on my JP.

Gord

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