Quoted from chubtoad13:I would start by reflowing solder here and if that doesn’t work take the board off and reflow the connector pins.[quoted image]
Ok thanks for the advice. I’m not the best at soldering, but will give it the old college try.
Quoted from chubtoad13:I would start by reflowing solder here and if that doesn’t work take the board off and reflow the connector pins.[quoted image]
Ok thanks for the advice. I’m not the best at soldering, but will give it the old college try.
Quoted from chubtoad13:I would start by reflowing solder here and if that doesn’t work take the board off and reflow the connector pins.[quoted image]
I did a last effort check before soldering. I touched the LED wires to the curved contacts of the socked. The LED faintly lights up with about 1/10 of the normal brightness. Does that mean anything specifically?
Quoted from skivaly21:I did a last effort check before soldering. I touched the LED wires to the curved contacts of the socked. The LED faintly lights up with about 1/10 of the normal brightness. Does that mean anything specifically?
Just that there’s a low amount of voltage at the contact for the light. The cause is most likely a bad connection somewhere or a bad component.
Do you have a Multimeter to check the voltage?
Finally got back to the JP I was tasked with fixing. New left switch installed (leaf broke while adjusting last time) but every time I left it as is the red rod meant to separate the leafs would go on past the longer bottom leaf and hyperextend it from that point forward (at that point the red rod would actually be on the OTHER side of the stack. Ended up going BACK to the stupid zip tie temporarily to absolutely confirm it would stay together and not come apart, then gave the longer leaf a slight bend to keep it from contacting the rod at all.
The switch on the opposite side lower flipper (which is in no way wired, and I'm not really sure how it should be--attaching pics of the upper right flipper as well as the bottom ones to verify) does the same thing with hyperextending the switch stack the wrong way but it actually ends up making the flipper action clunky like it's got a bad sleeve or something (which it doesn't) so I gave the longer bottom leaf a slight bend to keep it from physically hanging up the flipper action.
It all 'works' again but this feels a bit...wrong.. And I would really like to make his machine correct rather than just letting him continue on forever like this. Thoughts? I apologize in advance if some of this is really, really basic stuff and I'm just not getting it. I think I'm still a bit flustered by how DE apparently did things vs all of my Bally/Williams stuff.
IMG_20200719_173413 (resized).jpgIMG_20200726_160655 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Finally got back to the JP I was tasked with fixing. New left switch installed (leaf broke while adjusting last time) but every time I left it as is the red rod meant to separate the leafs would go on past the longer bottom leaf and hyperextend it from that point forward (at that point the red rod would actually be on the OTHER side of the stack. Ended up going BACK to the stupid zip tie temporarily to absolutely confirm it would stay together and not come apart, then gave the longer leaf a slight bend to keep it from contacting the rod at all.
The switch on the opposite side lower flipper (which is in no way wired, and I'm not really sure how it should be--attaching pics of the upper right flipper as well as the bottom ones to verify) does the same thing with hyperextending the switch stack the wrong way but it actually ends up making the flipper action clunky like it's got a bad sleeve or something (which it doesn't) so I gave the longer bottom leaf a slight bend to keep it from physically hanging up the flipper action.
It all 'works' again but this feels a bit...wrong.. And I would really like to make his machine correct rather than just letting him continue on forever like this. Thoughts? I apologize in advance if some of this is really, really basic stuff and I'm just not getting it. I think I'm still a bit flustered by how DE apparently did things vs all of my Bally/Williams stuff.
[quoted image][quoted image]
One side has the wrong EOS switch.
https://www.thepinballwizard.net/flipper-parts/end-of-stroke-switch-eos-data-east/sega-180-5124-01/
Use this.
I'll look at my JP tonight, they really changed things up in this time period. Some pins had EOS, others did not. The manual does state there is a left and right EOS though.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:New left switch installed (leaf broke while adjusting last time) but every time I left it as is the red rod meant to separate the leafs would go on past the longer bottom leaf and hyperextend it from that point forward (at that point the red rod would actually be on the OTHER side of the stack. Ended up going BACK to the stupid zip tie temporarily to absolutely confirm it would stay together and not come apart, then gave the longer leaf a slight bend to keep it from contacting the rod at all.
The switch on the opposite side lower flipper (which is in no way wired, and I'm not really sure how it should be--attaching pics of the upper right flipper as well as the bottom ones to verify) does the same thing with hyperextending the switch stack the wrong way but it actually ends up making the flipper action clunky like it's got a bad sleeve or something (which it doesn't) so I gave the longer bottom leaf a slight bend to keep it from physically hanging up the flipper action.
The switches should be normally closed. If the red nub is extending past (and under) the stack, push the stack away from the coil so that the travel is greater before the nub hits the long side of the stack.
I have a pair of unused DE switches if you want them. PM me before the mail goes out today and you'll get them even quicker.
IMG_4190[1] (resized).JPGIMG_4191[1] (resized).JPGQuoted from newovad:The switches should be normally closed. If the red nub is extending past (and under) the stack, push the stack away from the coil so that the travel is greater before the nub hits the long side of the stack.
I have a pair of unused DE switches if you want them. PM me before the mail goes out today and you'll get them even quicker.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Gah, I didn't use the right switches, because what was in there to begin with was wrong and I didn't catch it. Completely my fault. Yes, I'd love to buy those switches from you, PM coming.
Thank you! I imagine that will completely alleviate the issue with the hyperextension, so then I just need to resolve the wiring fiasco he has going on.
Also, random, but how hard is it to change out the GI without taking half of the topside down? His machine is CRIMINALLY dark (and made even worse by the fact that he has SUPER bright no-lense LEDs in the back box, completely full). I can't see crap when I play the thing! I told him to remove about half of his back box LEDs for now and we would correct it with some color matched bulbs when I did the GI. Warm white, cool white, or sunlight white? Comet 2SMD are always my choice.
Thank you guys for all the help..I'm certainly learning some nuances with DE pins on this one.
-Jordan
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Gah, I didn't use the right switches, because what was in there to begin with was wrong and I didn't catch it. Completely my fault. Yes, I'd love to buy those switches from you, PM coming.
Thank you! I imagine that will completely alleviate the issue with the hyperextension, so then I just need to resolve the wiring fiasco he has going on.
Also, random, but how hard is it to change out the GI without taking half of the topside down? His machine is CRIMINALLY dark (and made even worse by the fact that he has SUPER bright no-lense LEDs in the back box, completely full). I can't see crap when I play the thing! I told him to remove about half of his back box LEDs for now and we would correct it with some color matched bulbs when I did the GI. Warm white, cool white, or sunlight white? Comet 2SMD are always my choice.
Thank you guys for all the help..I'm certainly learning some nuances with DE pins on this one.
-Jordan
Warm white clear dome 5050 1SMD tends to be my go to for GI with frosted dome used in locations with direct line of sight to player.
Quoted from chubtoad13:Just that there’s a low amount of voltage at the contact for the light. The cause is most likely a bad connection somewhere or a bad component.
Do you have a Multimeter to check the voltage?
Yes, just arrived from Amazon. Any tips on the best way to test? Thanks
Long shot, but does anyone have a lead on these sideblades (or maybe an extra set they can sell)? To me, these are the blades that best match the color and style of the playfield.
(the image came from here - https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-modding/pinball-specific/7731/sideboard-decals-for-jurassic-park - but they are sold out)
sideblades (resized).jpgQuoted from scootss:Long shot, but does anyone have a lead on these sideblades (or maybe an extra set they can sell)? To me, these are the blades that best match the color and style of the playfield.
(the image came from here - https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-modding/pinball-specific/7731/sideboard-decals-for-jurassic-park - but they are sold out)
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/german-mail-forwarding-workaround-for-pinball-center/page/3
Contact Zitt
Quoted from scootss:Long shot, but does anyone have a lead on these sideblades (or maybe an extra set they can sell)? To me, these are the blades that best match the color and style of the playfield.
(the image came from here - https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-modding/pinball-specific/7731/sideboard-decals-for-jurassic-park - but they are sold out)
[quoted image]
These are cool, I agree. BUT. I cant get over the mirror image and the fact thats its the same image on both sides.
I thought hassanchop was making new ones?
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I cant get over the mirror image and the fact thats its the same image on both sides
I know... I feel the same way..but it's the best of what I have seen.
If I can't get those, I'll go with these:
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-jungle-pinball-sideblades/
Quoted from bossk4hire:Anyone have a top ramp for sale? Or best place to get one? Thanks!
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-jurassic-park-main-ramp-assembly.html
$185
Quoted from Alan_L:I'm looking at a DE JP where the Dino head goes side to side and up and down but the jaw doesn't close. Any thoughts?
TIA,
Al
It could be the motor (expensive), or it could just be a screw needs to be tightened. Either way, I would certainly offer much less.
Quoted from Alan_L:I'm looking at a DE JP where the Dino head goes side to side and up and down but the jaw doesn't close. Any thoughts?
TIA,
Al
Seeing how T-Rex is useless w/o his jaw opening & closing, you better take a close look. There have been all kinds of threads and posts addressing a multitude of issues with T-Rex, and for me the solution to no side-to-side movement ended up being a new transistor on the control board.
Be sure to run the T-Rex diagnostics and maybe you can learn something about the issue.
Here are some things to checkout:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/105#post-4854037
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club#post-1545022
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/33#post-2914199
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/60#post-3579049
Quoted from Alan_L:Is the T-Rex's head hard to work on
Check the parts list in the service manual. You will see the covers are easy to remove for repair.
Quoted from Alan_L:Is the T-Rex's head hard to work on, like Ted or Red's head in RS?
I know this is a tease because its the fancy trex head, but he breaks it all down really well. I dont have any trouble diving into the head now at any time. Super comfortable with it.
Greetings. I've decided to scout around for a DE JP. After restoring 20+ EMs for 8 years, I finally took on and just finished my first SS: a WMS Jokerz, which arrived just in time before the coronavirus meltdown. (I refer to it as my "tuition" pin.) So now I'm bored in lockdown. Thought it would be most helpful to hang out in this JP club and learn as much as I can. Fascinating group. Inspiring posts. Looking forward to new shared knowledge.
Quoted from fixintoplay:Greetings. I've decided to scout around for a DE JP. After restoring 20+ EMs for 8 years, I finally took on and just finished my first SS: a WMS Jokerz, which arrived just in time before the coronavirus meltdown. (I refer to it as my "tuition" pin.) So now I'm bored in lockdown. Thought it would be most helpful to hang out in this JP club and learn as much as I can. Fascinating group. Inspiring posts. Looking forward to new shared knowledge.
Are you looking for restored, project, player's condition?
Quoted from edward472:Are you looking for restored, project, player's condition?
Good question. Somewhere between project and player's. I'd like what I got with my Jokerz: working, decent playfield, salvageable cabinet art, needing time-consuming detail work (cosmetic, elec/mech.) and priced fairly.
Quoted from JohnJN:Anyone try installing the Stern JP Art blades into a DE JP? any issues? does it fit?
Post 6830
Quoted from jorro:Post 6830
Thanks - those aren't the Stern ones for the new JP machine though.
Quoted from Billc479:Johnjn -
Repost your question on the new JP thread. This is the Data East JP thread.
He's asking if the blades from the new JP would fit the Data east JP. This is the correct place for that question.
I don't see why they wouldn't, might need a little trimming but they should work.
Quoted from JohnJN:Thanks - those aren't the Stern ones for the new JP machine though.
No but these are for the stern jp, they look verry cool!
Hi all. I've had my JP for nearly 3 years, on the whole without any issues. In the last year or so I've been having the following intermittent issues:
Music stops during play but returns at the start of the next ball
Machine resets itself during play
Dmd occasionally distorts during play
Finally the most recent issue is that the machine doenst start up when turned on. The lights come on but it doenst boot up it just freezes. This happens for prolounged periods of time but occasionally will start up ok when left for months
Any ideas on what these issues are? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers
Kez
Quoted from kezzybear82:Hi all. I've had my JP for nearly 3 years, on the whole without any issues. In the last year or so I've been having the following intermittent issues:
Music stops during play but returns at the start of the next ball
Machine resets itself during play
Dmd occasionally distorts during play
Finally the most recent issue is that the machine doenst start up when turned on. The lights come on but it doenst boot up it just freezes. This happens for prolounged periods of time but occasionally will start up ok when left for months
Any ideas on what these issues are? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers
Kez
Power supply.
Quoted from kezzybear82:The lights come on but it doenst boot up
Yup, power supply or other board loading down power supply. Here is an example of that with some details about the power supply board:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/159#post-5728513
will say Power supply as well. I replaced my board with an X-pin(?). Can't remember right off top of my head. And after doing so, no issues.
https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-de5047/
Looking for a little help. My music is just a little off key. Not sure where to look. I re-seated connectors on both the sound board and power board. Power was re-built about 6 months ago. I tried adjusting the volume to see if it was a rheostat issue but adjusting it didn't make any difference. Is it time to have the sound board rebuilt? Any thoughts?
Thank You in advance,
Pete
I am considering selling my DE Jurassic Park. It has just about every possible mod you could find (color dmd, tims moving gate, tims moving raptor, trees, opening lit barbasol can, custom dinos, custom dino box, east dock sign, pop bumper caps, custom captive ball, rottendog board, new roms, titan rubbers, comet LEDs, custom painted dinos, custom apron cards, yoyokopter scoops, loop scoop combo, manual, nvram, custom key fob, coin door decals, custom coin inserts, and more)
Pm me if interested
Quoted from bossk4hire:Might someone be able to take photo for where NVRAM goes? Thanks!
I am having an issue with sound. The music sounds a little off key. I discontented and reconnected ribbon cables. ROM1 tests good, ROM2 is a little off through game diagnostics. Power supply was rebuilt not long ago. Original sound ROMs are in the game. Any thoughts on what I should try. I could have the sound board rebuilt, I can replace the ROMs with new original ROMs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Alright yall. I just put in Chads code and now the Trex won't eat the ball. I have it set to yes to eat the ball and no to turn side to side. It was fine before the rom swap. Any ideas? It doesn't move during the diagnostics either. Thanks!
Quoted from bossk4hire:Alright yall. I just put in Chads code and now the Trex won't eat the ball. I have it set to yes to eat the ball and no to turn side to side. It was fine before the rom swap. Any ideas? It doesn't move during the diagnostics either. Thanks!
If you’ve not done so already, I would double check your work on both chips and be 100% sure that no pin is bent or non-inserted. Might even remove and re-install just to be sure.
I don’t recall reading where anyone else had this issue (mine was plug and play).
Quoted from bossk4hire:Alright yall. I just put in Chads code and now the Trex won't eat the ball. I have it set to yes to eat the ball and no to turn side to side. It was fine before the rom swap. Any ideas? It doesn't move during the diagnostics either. Thanks!
If you pop in the old roms does it work again?
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