Responded to your Facebook post. I'm 99% sure the issue with the A Scoop is that the ball bounces over the switch. The switch is positioned in the middle of that subway, so when the ball enters fast, it has enough force to bounce, and with the angle of the subway, it bounces right over the switch. So mine came with a deadening pad that won't allow the ball to bounce and I've never had any issues with the switch. A while back I posted a link to what I'm pretty sure is that pad that I have in my game.

Did a quick search, and I'm sure it's something like this.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/0500-9852

The way that subway is built, it's kinda like a springboard.

My start button is sticking a bit. The switch inside the cabinet seems fine, but the issue seems to be that the red plastic is sticking/rubbing inside the black housing outside of the cab. I know how to change the bulb...but I can't seem to get the bigger mechanism apart to clean it. Can anyone shed some light?

Thanks!

Awkward.

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Got my first system failure yesterday. Great mode! I wanted to be surprised, so I didn't watch any videos, but knew the gist of it.

In the past I had been struggling with flipper issues (now resolved!), but had I not known that they were all going to drain at the end I definitely would have panicked!

I haven't been playing mine much because it has been having issues. The ball's weren't feeding correctly and the A scoop wasn't registering among other things. Finally got everything working yesterday, buttoned it up, and then this happened. I thought that clear post was suppose to prevent this type of thing

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Six out of ten times, my JP is kicking the ball out of the bunker RDTFM. It’s driving me nuts! Has anyone ever encountered this? If so, what did you do to fix it? Just for clarification, I’m kind of new to pinball. Any help is appreciated.

Sorry, I'm not clear on what you are saying. Can you please elaborate?

Lift up the playfield and confirm the mechanism is securely mounted to the playfield and make the sure the coil there that kicks the ball feels secure as well and no screws loose or missing.

Post back if you need info on how to lift the playfield.

For clarification, when the ball goes into the double scoop(control room/bunker) the ball will kick out and go straight down the middle and into the trough. Under the playfield, the bunker assembly is secure. As far as the coil goes, it seems secure. There is some side to side play in the plunger though. I wonder if this is why it never seems to kick the ball out the same way?

Check your flipper alignment too. If the left isn't aligned well, it can be hard to catch the ball with it when it's ejected

The flipper alignment looks good. I think the whole bunker assembly may need to be moved a bit. Because it goes down the middle with no possibility of saving. Not even close to the flippers. The only thing that I don’t understand Is why it only does it 60 to 70 percent of the time. I would think it should come out of that bunker almost the same every time?

There's some variation. Especially if the shaker is going off. But should be pretty consistent. Have you checked the to see if your game is level and set at the right pitch?

I just leveled it and set the pitch to 6 degrees yesterday. I thought that was my issue, but it didn’t help.

Check the tip of the upkickers coils plunger, that was the problem on mine.
I also had to force the scoop exit a tiny bit because mine was sticking up to mutch like one of the previous owners bended it.
First check the tip
If its not straight it launches the ball a fraction to the side.
Because it can spin in the coil it doesnt happen all the time, its ok when it drains sometimes but 70% is way to mutch
Also if the ball is in the scoop trough, it lies in the upkickers hole there is a round wire from the switch
Make sure that its in a good position so it gets activated but the ball go's up vertical.

I had the same issue. Do you have a cliffy on that scoop? Mine was a bit bent and was causing it to go SDTM. Put on a new cliffy and now it goes perfectly to the left flipper.

If not a cliffy, then as others have said, it can be the “hood” of the scoop (easy to bend slightly) or the placement of the mechanism under the playfield.

Does anyone have a playfield they would be willing to part with? Would prefer not totally blown out but the standard wear locations is fine. My JP is slated for the winter project repair shop, and I was hoping to get a jump with a different playfield before a swap.

Thanks,

I just joined the club. This is also my first Data East game. Picked it up this morning. The seller only had this one game and said they bought it new in Ontario in 1994. Would a Canadian game have a 3-slot coin door? The game truly looks HUO. My back is soar so I won't be bringing it in the basement and setting it up for a few days. No fade on the cabinet, no wear on the gun, and no wear on the coin slots. I'll post more pics once it's on the legs.

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What is the plastic plate screwed to the front left? I’m guessing it was on route and that is somehow an identifier for the op, but can’t tell from the picture.
Even if it’s not HUO, who cares if it’s in such great shape. Might have been just briefly routed. Sounds like a good fine either way!

3 coin door not unusual on export models.

That is an Ontario tag of some sort. I have the receipt in the seller's name from when he bought it in February of 1994. If it was routed, it wasn't routed long.

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Mine has a three slot coin door so seems typical on this pin in Canada.

Trying to fix this for someone and they left flipper had the leaf completely out of whack. Fixed it and then it snapped off completely. Anyone know the PN for JUST the leaf that broke off on the stack? It's the longer one that is engaged by the rod on the flipper mechanism. I have some spare switches from Williams flipper rebuild kits but tbh I've never looked at a DE machine prior to this. If I can use those, then I will solder them in as opposed to ordering anything.

On the right side that leaf isn't long enough to properly engage the rod at all--the rod goes past it rather than being held by it. Presumably it should be the same length as the one that broke on the left, right?

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Sorry, noticing the right side has no wires run to the stack.. Surely that can't be right... Right?!

I guess it would make sense if the top was wired with proper switch and the lower was just slaved off of it, it just seems backwards from what I'm used to. I didn't actually look at the upper flipper at all.. if that's correct, I'm thinking I'll just pull this switch out altogether.. Not like it's actually doing anything.

I think you have a few issues.
One- the End Of Stroke (EOS) switches should be closed (touching) and will open when the actuator hits them. This is what tells the machine to lower the voltage in order to hold the flipper up without frying the coil. If they’re open, like yours, you’ll have less power all the time.

Two- yes, that flipper’s EOS should be wired. I took a picture of my flippers for reference. The upper flipper does not have an EOS switch because it operates off of the lower right flipper.

Post a picture of your upper flipper when you have a chance.
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Yeah, all of that makes sense based on everything I've ever seen on any of the machines I've ever owned. Just didn't know if there was something different with JP (I assumed not, and that it was just not set up... Right). Actually, the left flipper didn't work at all with the EOS not closed at rest.

I'll take my soldering iron and make it 'right' when I go fix it this weekend.

Thanks for the pics / confirmation.

Has anybody ever has an issue with the ball not registering(intermittently)when it drains? I’ve read all the posts regarding the fixes for the trough switch issues, I tried all of them and nothing. I’ve checked and adjusted the switches, did a switch test(all good), tried rolling the balls down the trough every way possible to see if that was an issue, etc. When not registering, I’ve also opened the coin door and manually triggered all the trough switches and that doesn’t fix the issue either. Sometimes after not registering, it performs the ball locate process(triggering coils)and it will then register, but most of the time it doesn’t. Can a switch be bad even if it is registering? I’m at a loss here, not sure what could be the issue. Any help/advice is appreciated.

Sounds like you have trough switches right on the edge. See if you can make the switch make a little sooner when the hall rolls over it or sits on it. This would entail bending the actuator arm just a wee bit

I’ve tried all that. I’ve even activated the switches through the coin door when it’s hung up and it still doesn’t register. It seems like it’s fine, then it doesn’t register once and then continues not to register after that until I power off/on the game. It

At this point, I’m going to replace the switches. If that doesn’t fix it, then I am really lost.

Some switches will seem to trigger but be bad, I have had this happen. Make sure you are in the test menu and looking at activated switches when testing.

Check this switch at the end of the trough.
That switch can be finicky and if it doesnt register it won't kick a ball out until ball search.

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Sometimes a switch's behavior is dependent on another switches in the same ROW or COLUMN. Meaning... there can be another switch causing the issue. Make sure you do switch testing with the various other switches all in the same position as when the suspected bad switch is not working.

For example... if your game is having trouble detecting a switch... and normally, there are 5 balls in the trough at that moment of the issue... then when testing, don't remove all balls, instead, put those 5 balls in the trough when testing the problematic switch. Hope that makes sense.

All of the switches work while in test mode. I have adjusted and checked the switch at the end of the trough. The only thing I don’t believe I’ve tested is the five balls in trough and test the last switch. I’m going to try that in a little bit. Thanks for all the help/suggestions. I’ll update whatever I find.

I had that issue and found i had a loose wire futher up the chain. Once I resodered the loose wire all was.good! For me it was a yellow brown wire.

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I’m trying to solve a ROM 6.0 mystery. I installed the 6.0 Display & CPU ROMs yesterday, but I can’t figure out how the game is supposed to play. The Control Room light is on immediately and stays on for most of play (seen in photo). When I shoot the Control Room, it comes out of the Bunker, but nothing else happens, and the Control Room light remains on. Shooting the Power Shed, then the Control Room doesn’t seem to advance the game as it would in ROM 5.13.

Random challenges are selected at the start instead of Stampede as expected in 6.0. Whether it’s Lite Extra Ball, Raptor Rampage, or anything...I can’t figure out how to begin or complete the challenge.

It seems fun except for the fact that I can’t figure out what the heck is going on. Maybe I’m missing something completely obvious...I’m sure I could plug in ROM 5.13 and go back to normal, but I really want to figure this out. That constantly lit Control Room lamp is driving me crazy.

I watched a bit of the Buffalo Pinball 6.0 ROM YouTube video and it seemed like the same was happening, including that Control Room lamp. I’ve owned this since 2007 and have had my fair share of tinkering with it, but I’m stumped.

Any ideas? Thanks!

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Check the rollover switch in the control room/bunker trough, it may not be registering consistently.
If that light is on or flashing it should start a game mode when the control room shot is hit.
I've had to adjust that switch more than once.
The ball can kind of hop over it or not depress it enough to activate it.

This!

Yep. This switch is the second most frustrating part of the entire machine

Well, we’ll, well...would you look at that!
Thank you!!

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Nice! Easy fix. Now enjoy the new code.

Here is what my problem was some time ago
They probably didnt have these switches
Ducktape for the win!
And previous owner bought it and said it was a real boring unlogic game
Modes only start after hitting the scoop 20 times
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Good ol’ duct tape, fixes everything...then slowly falls apart.

I’ve noticed the “2 Ball” lamp (location #13) was intermittently working, but now it doesn’t work for either a LED or bulb.

This socket/lamp will work if I put it in any of the other locations on the board, so I don’t believe the issue is the black lamp socket. I’ve also lightly bent the two small prongs on the socket to make sure they were connecting to the contacts when twisting it in.

Should I pull the board off and examine the other side or is there an simple fix that I’m not aware of?

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Swap lamp holder to another location and see if problem follows.

I had a very similar issue with my JP for some time and only recently fixed by a tech.
It was a compilation of issues and finally after a while it was all fixed and now currently playing flawlessly.

So firstly 3 switches in the ball trough ended up being replaced (One was dodgy, two were just worn) Yet in switch check they all went fine. So 3 switches changed, all wiring resoldered as some connections were questionable and one resister was backward.

This only partially sorted the problem as then subsequently the ball search still seemed to be going in conjunction with some GI Flashers. Cracked solder joints on a board (bottom left board) and boom all sorted. We had to take the board out twice to even flow some of the component legs. Probably a result of years in cold environments and my shed.

Anyway this is what worked for my machine..

Here is your real answer for all things ball trough switch related:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/96#post-4743040

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/115#post-4947340

I would start by reflowing solder here and if that doesn’t work take the board off and reflow the connector pins.

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I swapped them around. All lamp holders will work in any location, except for the “2 Ball” #13 location.

Then you have eliminated the socket and bulb, time to check the board for bad solder joints or loose wires at the connector.

Go into lamp test mode and push-pull wiring and circuit board and see if it lights up.