Spring is there. I haven’t really looked into it very much. I might just need to bend the actuator a little or extend the spring a little. I’ll try to dig into it tonight.

Please take this as constructive feedback. I really like the poster that most of the images come from, and think they would look great on a translite.

The t-rex and dilophosaurus (and a couple of the other dinos on 2nd look) seem out of place since they're not derived from the same source. They appear to be computer generated 3D models that aren't at all in the same style as the hand-drawn images. Why not pull them from the same source? It appears both are present on the hand-drawn poster.

Also, I can't help but notice the use of repeated images. I'm seeing the same vines and same leaves repeated many times. Can those be varied more?

Installed a ton of mods from Mr. tantrum! Thank you. Gave this game some life!

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Looks fabulous!

As a FYI to those who wish to order any of my JP mods in the near future, Tim has come back online temporarily and has a few of his East Dock signs to sell. I only started making/offering mine when Tim had depleted his original inventory then moved on to other ventures. We have a gentlemen's agreement that I will defer any request for East Dock sign orders to him until he depletes what he has and/or decides to no longer sell them.

So, if you've been wanting an East Dock sign, I highly encourage you to contact Tim. If the time isn't right for you, and you miss the window to get in on his production, then I'll resume making and selling them when he decides to no longer sell his.

Much better!

I take that back!

The pops DO change the mode lit but only if you don't have the bunker lit.

Right flipper issue. Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. You can hear a hum and if you push it up with your hand, it will go up. The weirdest crap. I have checked the following:

1. Flipper board - old and new board. Does the same thing
2. All fuses removed are are good
3. PPB board transistors checked. All good
4. Right flipper button switch replaced
5. Upper flippers both have been rebuilt
6. Ground wire checked from lower right switch. All good

ANYTHING IM MISSING?

Bad end of stroke switch on the flipper or just out of adjustment

I checked it. Plus it’s brand new. I took the old switch off and installed the new one. Same results.

Ummm..."Upper flippers both have been rebuilt" ?

There is only one upper flipper. You sure you're on the right game?

Does the flipper have a good gap?

Does it move fine manually when the game is off? Have you replaced the sleeve?

Even brand new switches can sometimes need to be adjusted. Eos can be finiky

Sorry. Both lower flippers rebuilt. Lol. Upper right works fine. Lower flipper works sometimes.

I just had something similar. For me it was the leaf switch at the flipper button needed adjusting, it had gotten out of alignment.

Yeah I have spent 15 hours now trying to figure this crap out. The list above is what I have done which is a lot of work.

I had the same issue. EOS. New switch doesn't mean perfect contact. Clean with alcohol and/or with very fine grit sandpaper (above 800).

Just wanted to give a quick update. I received enough interest to make another run of the JP gates. I'll be making static and functioning gates. If you already contacted me you are on the list and I will will reach out to you when they are done. If anyone else is interested let me know and I'll add you to the list. I've also been getting some requests for the Raptor crates. If you are interested in the functioning or static version of these also let me know as I'm starting an interest list to see if I will make another run of these as well.

Switch is new. Same results as old switch.

I love my functioning gate!
Realy adds to the game experience!

Just shooting in the dark here....maybe reflow the solder lugs on the flipper coil. A cold or cracked joint there could cause the flipper to work intermittently like you described. Might as well check the coil diode as well. I'm curious what's causing it, so please update when you get it solved.

I know it's new. My switch was also new. Problem was the same, with brand new switch, the contact was not perfect. In this case the game believes the switch is open, no need to apply full power, just the basic holding power.
The upper right flipper has no EOS, that's why the game is not fooled by EOS, but applies the full power for defined time (40 milliseconds as default).

Thanks for the reply. New flippers. All 3 rebuilt. Solder was redone again just to make sure. Diodes good. Coils are getting power. It’s freaking weird. Just the bottom right is like 70/30. 70% of the time it does not work.

Send a pic if u can

Here what you can try, jumper the two lugs on the end of stroke switch. See if your flipper has full power
And works ever time

Pic about...?

Sorry if you already mentioned this, but did this issue exist at all before the flipper rebuilds?

The issue existed before the rebuild.

If you believe the EOS isn’t the issue. I would try swapping the coils to see if the issue follows.

Any chance it's a wiring issue? Those IDC connectors can sometimes give problems. I had an issue with my trough switches under the scoops that I had to trace back to one of those connectors. Worth taking a look and giving the wire a good push in to make sure it's making good contact. Specifically check connector 1 (CN1) on the the flipper pcb at pins #1 (right flipper EOS) and #7 (right flipper enable).
Again, just taking a shot here...I'm no expert!

I used my .156 crimper and reseeded the wires.

Cleaned my machine last weekend and discovered that the bank of three targets next to the pop bumper entry, the upper most green target is stuck on. I've always had a heck of a time keeping that one straight. It always keeps getting knocked sideways.

But after trying to straighten it out, it will not disengage. Somehow it's stuck making contact. Tried separating the best I could without taking it apart, but cannot get it.

Those targets are terrible to work on. I think it's best to just pull the whole assembly out.

Anyone have any tips on keeping those targets perfectly straight?

Mine had the same issues, pull out the whole assembly, 2 screws I think. I loosened the top green one and moved it up ever so slightly so it will clear the play field. Then tighten all three. Replace. Watch the wire connecting the control center.

Quick question on turn up during T-Rex diagnostics should music be playing? Mine doe not have any music playing during T-Rex Diagnostics, one test complete music starts up. Is that the way it is supposed to be?

Sounds right.

Hope these help

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Thank You

Thanks so much. Helps a lot!

Just wanted to give a shout out to Mr Tantrum for making his awesome mods available. They made my game stand tall and are well made and reasonably priced. Thanks you mr tantrum

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Just wanted to stop in quickly and let people know that I just got a bunch of LED light strips from comet so I should have stock of my yellow gun launcher mod for the foreseeable future.

Unfortunately I traded my JP last month, so I'm no longer part of the club

But I'm glad I'm still able to contribute to so many people's machines. Also I'm always working with harryhoudini to come up with more mods too. He's got some cool things cooking up with my gates.

Hi everyone, I have a problem with the jurassic park, when the ball hits the pinball bat (especially on the left one) or when I catch the ball with the tip, the pinball bat gives or pulls slowly .. In all other cases it is perfect, what can it be? The coil, sleeve and coil stop are news.
Thanks

The coiks indicated in the manual for the lower pinball are corrects? They seem so weak to me

Are there any differences in use between these two coils? I mounted the green coil

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Installed some Tilt Graphics art blades in my JP yesterday. I wasn’t sure from the pics, but love them installed!

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Just wanted to let people know that I will have some of the functioning gates ready to ship in the next day or two. To those that contacted me, I'll reach out to you in the order that you contacted me to collect payment and get your shipping information.
Thanks
Tim

Hi team, could anyone please tell me the part # or correct size rivets I need to purchase for securing the various metal pieces to the main ramp on JP? I’m in the middle of replacing my main plastic ramp and apparently don’t have the correct rivets to re-attach everything...

Thanks heaps

What is everyone using for post sleeve rubber? I redid everything in Titan black and I’m getting violent rebounds off of the mosquito captive ball and raptor pit posts - lots of ball hop. Multiple times the balls has jumped and hit the glass or jumped into the jet area and even a few rare instances of it jumping onto the metal rail, 1 event of it jumping back into the shooter lane. Just insane. Fully blame it on the Titans as I’ve never had this happen in 20 years. Also put a titan ring on my BTTF and getting violent rebounds there.
Obviously I have to pull the titans. Just seeing what everyone is using. Horrible luck with Marco rubber giving out under very light usage so looking for a good resource.
What you got?

Titan post sleeves aren't great.
Lots of bounce and wear quickly.

I think I have cliffy's on mine and they have been solid for a long time.

I’ve just installed these angled super band post sleeves, they’re awesome and eliminate the ball hop completely for me. Just need to find a colour matched normal post sleeve to get rid of the half black sleeve at the bottom

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Superbands problem is that they cause ball hop. I had one fly clear over the flipper after hitting one of those posts. After that, I was done with them. I felt the angled ones were a fix to fix their own problem without actually solving it.

I ended up getting Cliffy Posts, and those things are amazing. No ball hop whatsoever.

https://www.passionforpinball.com/colorsleeves.htm

I have Beeposts PU they are less hoppy