Posted this in its own thread, but wanted to try here too....

I have the following coils/flashers not responding(in a game or in test/diagnostics):

-Knocker (#8L)
-1msq 1pfd 2top (#8R)
-Relay Motor up/down (#14)
-Relay Motor On/Off (#15)
-Left Scoop (#4L)

I tested every transistor and diode on the PPB and the MPU is new. The only diode on the PPB that tested odd was D22, which gave me readings both directions, but I replaced it and the new one is testing the same. Any ideas??

You can see the screw 38 holding on the jaw 37. The back of the TREX is also 1 screw.

trex parts list (resized).jpg

Can someone confirm that the left right motor sounds normal? I can’t hear it during gameplay. The video was taken with the glass off and my phone really close.
I am shopping the game and was thinking about lubricating the gearbox. Just wanted to know if its worth the effort.
Thanks

Who is burning roms for the 6.0 code nowadays?

Matts basement. Here on pinside.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1083-matt-s-basement-arcade/01167-jurassic-park-pinball-rom-upgrade

That's how mine sounds.

Also, I noticed you had a PinSound but no boot.wav file (just the default chimes when it starts). If you'll PM me your email address, I'll send you a custom themed boot.wav file for JP (just copy it to the "audio" folder on your USB).

What to check? Trex does not move during test.

IMG-20200321-WA0005 (resized).jpg

Doesnt move at all? Did you push the flipperbuttons for left right and the start button for up down?
The gun trigger moves the jaw.

In diagnostics is the centerswitch activated?

Ok guys and gals, after adjusting my Rex I ran into an issue where a shorted trough switch was giving me issues with the up and down switches. Now I have intermittent issues with the jaw not firing, I assumed it was the standard worn/broken wiring but even after replacement it still will not work. I’ve tinkered with it in diagnostic and nothing. Ideas?

delete

Looking to replace 3 cracked play field plastic pieces. Wondering if anyone might have them laying around.

1. Plastic piece that goes around the lower pop bumper.
2. Plastic piece located behind the Power Shed hole.
3. Plastic piece located above the 3rd upper flipper, right side.

Thanks You in Advance,
Pete

IMG_5734 (resized).jpg

IMG_5735 (resized).jpg

IMG_5736 (resized).jpg

I put together a new alternate translite to give my game a new look.

JPDE PST (resized).jpg

Very Nice. Post pictures when it's on the back box.

I have a mock up

JP ON PIN (resized).jpg

Okay, I really like that - a perfect match to my caution tape theme. Are you accounting for the current lighting layout?

JP.jpg

I have new art for you Getaway too.

A1HS2 PST (resized).jpg

Ahs2 PIN (resized).jpg

Hi John,

That is a really nice alternate translite. I don't see Nedry (Newman from Seinfeld) on your alternate translite. That would have been nice to have him on this well-done alternate translite. That is not Nedry on the lower right part of the alternate translite is it?

Gord

Yeah that's Nedry with the Dilophosaurus spit on his face.

Here is the original artwork, Nedry is there. A bit different, but he is there.

20200325_154014 (resized).jpg

20200325_154043 (resized).jpg

Well, it took over a month for my LEDs to arrive, but I finally received them today and put them to good use making my custom speaker lighting. I ended up going with 5V cool white LEDs along with an inline manual dimmer. I think they came out great, so I wanted to offer them to the those who might be interested.

While I was at it, I also installed an amber LED strip on the back of my topper (could also go on the top of the backbox) and tied it into the same circuit as my speaker lights. This throws a nice amber glow on the wall directly behind the pin. I saw this in another post, but I supersized it with double the length LED strip.

Price is $20 for the speaker lights, everything needed to connect them (wiring, splitters, dimmer, alligator clips, etc.) and shipping. If you would like me to include the wiring and amber LED strip for the back of the pin, then the total will be $30 (choice of colors: amber, cool white, sunlight white, warm white, red, green, blue). Installation is 10 minutes or less, and very simple.

I only have enough LEDs to make 7 sets of the speaker lights, so the first 7 people (if there are that many) to commit to purchasing here in this thread get them.

Speaker lights at dimmest setting (not bright enough)
IMG_3691.JPG

Speaker lights at brightest setting (get out the sunglasses)
IMG_3690.JPG

Speaker lights set somewhere in between (just right)
IMG_3692.JPG

Amber backlighting installed
IMG_3695.JPG

How I mounted the strip
IMG_3693 (resized).JPG

Minor correction, the speaker LEDs are 6V not 5V.

I have my first commitment via PM, 6 spots left (PM me or post in this thread - I will go by timestamp).

If you really want to transform your JP gaming experience, PinSound is your #1 mod to make it happen IMO. For those of you who have been missing out on the greatness of PinSound, now is your chance (I just received this promo email):

Hundreds of machines everywhere, thousands of pinball friends, a fantastic venue in Texas, ... It should have happened this weekend. A huge shoutout for all the hard work and effort done by the TPF team! For every order placed from Friday to Sunday on our shop, we will donate 5% to the Texas Pinball Festival to help them recoup their costs and investments.

For now, as we all have to stay safe, here are our special deals from our virtual PinSound TPF booth:

buy 1 PinSound Ultimate Pack and get free shipping on your order - coupon code TPF20ULTIMATE
buy 1 PinSound+ sound board, get 1 Headphones Station for free - coupon code TPF20HPS
buy 1 DMDLux, get a No More Reset for free - coupon code TPF20LUX

Deals only valid from Friday 27 to Sunday 29 March

***Nevermind, it was the freaking fuse.

Long time since I left my JP about 99% done from a restoration. When I went back today I found that the slings and pops were not firing. Looks like they are all on F5 on the power board. It looks fine, I need to move the machine to remove it and I'll test it. Aside from that are there any other commonalities about those items? Going to do some continuity tests, I don't know if they ever worked since I put it back together so I'll make sure the wiring is at least correct.

Hopefully unrelated, when I left the game the rex wasn't moving. I reflowed the relay board, replaced the relay, replaced the motor and gear box. I'm sure I tested continuity on the relay board so those traces should be fine. I believe all the switches work, but even in test the rex doesn't work. It would only go to one side, which is why it made sense to be the relay board, but that doesn't seem to have fixed it. I mention only on the odd chance that those are related.

-------

Now to figure out the rex. Realized I put the legs on backwards, I thought I was playing an EM for a bit

Welp, all that messing with the rex and it must have been that same fuse, or who knows what. But it's working now. So I guess that means my game is 100% operational. Man, been a long process. Need to get some AR glass, every other game I have has it and this is horrible. Boy does a shiny playfield and new everything make the game look nice!

pasted_image (resized).png

Is that the amber or yellow gun mod? I’ve been looking at that for a couple weeks. Only has amber in stock, I’m not sure how that would look.

Great. Now get the v.6.00 code update on there!

That's the yellow. I don't think you would be unhappy with either version, both look awesome.

I'm guessing Greg will add more stock here shortly, I asked him about it. If he is out for some reason we have it on our site for a bit more (pinballmods.co)

Is that very new? I bought some ROM chips from someone a while back, maybe I haven't put them in yet. I'll go see what they say on them.

Edit - Ah yeah, I have 6.0 sitting right here from Matt's Basement Arcade or something. I'll pop those in. Need those updates for sure!

Also gotta get one of those GI smoothers.

I think the creator has stopped making the GI Meastro. After putting it off for several months, I got in on one of the last runs. I must say that it is a definite must have.

I was just PMing with him, seeing if he will let me produce more and sell if people want, if not just for me

Funny, I was about to do the same thing.

I'll let you know what he says.

On another note, can someone tell me where the red wire with blue bands goes to on the right side of the playfield? It's under the area where the wire bundle from the ramp gate goes. There is a junction block mounted under the playfield and I just need a pic of where the red/blue goes.

pasted_image (resized).png

Beauty shot. Waiting for Comet order to replace those blaring white lights with some warm single SMD.

Photo_-_Google_Photos (resized).jpg

From the manual, Red-Blu goes to the following lamps in the matrix:
6 Map
14 System Boot
22 Bone Buster
30 Jackpot Map
38 Herrera-Sauras Low
46 Gate x2
54 Raptor Pit Danger
62 Left Turbo Bumper

The two that are relatively close to where you're holding that wire are #46 and #54....assuming the wire terminates close to where you're holding it. I would start by checking those two for a missing wire.
Go into lamp test in diagnostics and see if any of those are out.
C20DFB53-BAC1-45BA-B228-573FD06D5FF8 (resized).jpeg

Check this diode as well. Mine appears to be turned 90° compared to yours, but you can see where they all connect here.

4C5F7814-94C1-4047-BB53-58BD75EFB26B (resized).jpeg

That's the pic I needed. I wasn't sure what part of that connection block it went to (that's where it was pulled from). Thanks!!

Doing a bit of a special edition entrance gate. Flickering flames in multiple color options. Testing out some other fancy integrations. Prototype:

pasted_image (resized).png

I decided to kick up my caution theme a notch with newly designed caution themed title & instruction cards. Might be over the top for some, but I can't help myself (I'm completely mesmerized by the caution pattern - I'm working on my own custom caution themed backglass, and then I think I'll be done). As usual, if anyone is interested in purchasing I'm selling them for $10 a set (includes US shipping - $12 international). Just PM me for order details.

IMG_3708.JPGIMG_3709.JPG

Mr_Tantrum the more I look at your caution theme the more I like it. Very attractive and it kinda "dares" you to play. I'm just getting started on my JP but will be looking to add some flair down the road.

Thanks. I really like the caution theme. It all started before I even bought the game and I saw another owner do his rails in the pattern earlier in this thread. He has since sold his, but I've grabbed the torch and definitely taken it to the next level. I was really excited when the caution theme translite was posted here last week. Unfortunately, I wanted some custom things done but the designer doesn't do one-offs. Therefore, I have taken it upon myself to design my own version in a similar style and I'm getting it printed on glass instead of just a translite. Will take a few weeks with all this Covid-19 stuff to get it manufactured, but the artwork is complete.

You've probably seen my JP mod offering link, but I will throw it out there again: http://thezumwaltfamily.com/jppinball. If anything is ever to your liking, please PM me and we can work out the details. I also do custom mods and graphics, so if you have another idea or go in a different direction and need someone to help let me know.

Color me intrigued. Please continue to share what you come up with.

I’m a fan. Once I get my game I’ll definitely be purchasing some of those. Nice work as per usual.

For sure. Waiting on some LEDs to be delivered and testing out some different color flames. I'll post an update soon.

Cool! Will the doors open like that other one, or will they be static?

I hadn't thought about opening the doors, but I suppose that is possible. What triggers them to open? When the red lights are on? I hadn't seen the other one. I have some tiny motors and servos here for another project that I could test out for this. I don't think the doors will fully open right now due to the geometry but I think we could make that happen.

Has anyone purchased the rollover switch (180-5119-00) for the JP ball trough from Ministry of Pinball?

I tried replacing my rollover switches with the replacement switches off Marco (180-5119-02) and they are too stiff. The ball sits on top of the switches but the actuator is not activating.

I went on Ministry of Pinball's website and saw that they are advertising the original switch (180-5119-00). I am skeptical that they are the original part since Pinball Life and Marco don't carry it. I tried emailing Ministry of Pinball and calling them but they couldn't give me a straight answer.

Link to the part here: https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/data-east-sega-stern-ball-detect-blade-with-roller-sub-microswitch-180-5119-00.html

Well, here was Tim's (opens with bone busting mode):

Can someone who owns this mod post any instructions it came with and close up photos of the components? Would love to figure out if I can convert my Tim's static gate to a motion one.

Hey there, was just getting a game or two in with my JP machine this morning and during a game my bottom right flipper just stopped working . The upper right flipper is working just fine, but nothing for the bottom one.

I went into diagnostics really quick and it's registering the Right Flipper switch. Not sure if it should be registering two switches, one for the bottom and one for top - but the immediate switch seems to be working just fine?

Before I pull the playfield up and start taking a look, anyone have any ideas on what could be happening here?

Same thing (except left flipper) happened to me earlier this week, broken wire. Had to re-solder it to the coil.

Like the poster above said, check for a broken wire to the flipper coil.
If that's not it, go into diagnostics switch test, lift the playfield, and manually close the flipper switch contacts for both the lower and upper flippers separately. Make sure each are registering.

Yep, wire came off. Soldered it back on and adjusted the other wire as well considering it looked like it was about to fall off too. "Mr Hammond, I think we're back in business!"