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(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

6 years ago



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  • 8,318 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by ZAuxier
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There are 8318 posts in this topic. You are on page 148 of 167.
#7351 8 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

I turn it on does it matter which black wires you have going to pins 6 and 3? Can they go either way?

Appears both are ground coming from the same spot on the PS. You could further check by measuring the resistance between the 2 wires, they should be a zero ohm short it they are the 2 wires shown here in the schematic.

CN2 (resized).jpg

#7352 8 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Appears both are ground coming from the same spot on the PS. You could further check by measuring the resistance between the 2 wires, they should be a zero ohm short it they are the 2 wires shown here in the schematic.
[quoted image]

Thanks!

#7353 8 months ago

Anyone have this plastic for sale? Or know where I can buy one? New or used in good condition. Not interested in bad quality replica.

5831E7B9-CA96-4132-A036-326C7D667759 (resized).jpeg
#7354 8 months ago
Quoted from holm:

Anyone have this plastic for sale? Or know where I can buy one? New or used in good condition. Not interested in bad quality replica.[quoted image]

If you cannot find an original, this is one that I've made by hand before. If you have someone local who can make plastics, I can supply the Illustrator file with outlines and artwork.

JP_RightPlastic (resized).png
#7355 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If you cannot find an original, this is one that I've made by hand before. If you have someone local who can make plastics, I can supply the Illustrator file with outlines and artwork.[quoted image]

It seems it's time to find a gofunding project for high quality JP plastics based on original colors, and screen printed technology...
I know, copyright...

#7356 8 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

It seems it's time to find a gofunding project for high quality JP plastics based on original colors, and screen printed technology...
I know, copyright...

You can purchase a full set from CPR: https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/jurassic-park

#7357 8 months ago

I have a CPR set. I am not impressed.

#7358 8 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

I have a CPR set. I am not impressed.

I just know of them, so your negative firsthand experience with them is definitely more meaningful. Can't remember if you posted your critique or not in the past, but I think I vaguely recall you mentioning it.

Only thing I've purchased from CPR are custom plastics I had made, but they were clear with no art on them. CPR did an excellent job and the parts were perfect.

#7359 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just know of them, so your negative firsthand experience with them is definitely more meaningful. Can't remember if you posted your critique or not in the past, but I think I vaguely recall you mentioning it.
Only thing I've purchased from CPR are custom plastics I had made, but they were clear with no art on them. CPR did an excellent job and the parts were perfect.

No, wasn't me.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club?tq=CPR&tu=

#7360 8 months ago

Hey, can anyone tell me what bulb types are used in the red T-Rex lights on the apron? I'm 90% sure they're 44/47, but just want to confirm before making my order.

I'm currently not a home, which is why I can't just do down and check

#7361 8 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Hey, can anyone tell me what bulb types are used in the red T-Rex lights on the apron? I'm 90% sure they're 44/47, but just want to confirm before making my order.
I'm currently not a home, which is why I can't just do down and check

#44 bayonet

#7362 8 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

#44 bayonet

Thank you!

#7363 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If you cannot find an original, this is one that I've made by hand before. If you have someone local who can make plastics, I can supply the Illustrator file with outlines and artwork.[quoted image]

Thanks

#7364 8 months ago

Does anyone have a breakdown of the rule changes for the game adjustment 7- extra easy through extra hard? I didn’t see a matrix in the manual. Otherwise it’s going through each one. Just curious thanks
Jimmy

#7365 8 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Does anyone have a breakdown of the rule changes for the game adjustment 7- extra easy through extra hard? I didn’t see a matrix in the manual. Otherwise it’s going through each one. Just curious thanks
Jimmy

Page 17 of the manual.

CDDDA849-28D0-42C5-882F-205072E48765.png
#7366 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Page 17 of the manual.[quoted image]

Thanks but I don’t see the game play difference if you went from “factory “ to “hard” for example. Maybe I’m missing it

#7367 8 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Thanks but I don’t see the game play difference if you went from “factory “ to “hard” for example. Maybe I’m missing it

Meant comprehensive change list sorry. By the table it looks like extra easy through factory are the same

#7368 8 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Thanks but I don’t see the game play difference if you went from “factory “ to “hard” for example. Maybe I’m missing it

So, it looks like there is some repetition.

Extra Easy, Easy, and Factory set 43, 44, and 47 to "Yes"
Hard and Extra hard set 43 to "Yes", 44 and 47 to "No"

Now, I'm not exactly sure what the note means, "Additional game features not variable by the Expanded Adjustments may also change using these setting."

My guess would be that the 5 options were standard for this platform, but depending upon the game they were implemented differently. But again, just a guess.

#7369 8 months ago

Yup, it appears that the programmers did not fully utilize the 5 difficulty settings in JP, only default vs hard/extra hard which only force those 3 settings. There may be more utilization in subsequent ROM versions.

Also, the ChadH custom JP ROM further utilizes the difficulty settings if I understand correctly.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-rules

#7370 8 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yup, it appears that the programmers did not fully utilize the 5 difficulty settings in JP, only default vs hard/extra hard which only force those 3 settings. There may be more utilization in subsequent ROM versions.
Also, the ChadH custom JP ROM further utilizes the difficulty settings if I understand correctly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-rules

Chad 6.0 Code detailed here: https://www.pinballcode.com/jp6

I highly recommend it!

#7371 8 months ago
Quoted from jurassicpark93:

Well you got my attention! I have a friend who is going to make a high quality scan of his JP Grids to me, and i am not too bad at photoshop, mabe we could work together to make a vinyl cut with your cricut? i can make the files and send them to you, (would pay for post and Vinyl of course) what do you think? Send me a pm if you are interested

I meant for like a stencil...but I bet vinyl would be close after poking all the holes lol
Yeah if I can get it into SVG it's definitely a possibility

#7372 8 months ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

I meant for like a stencil...but I bet vinyl would be close after poking all the holes lol
Yeah if I can get it into SVG it's definitely a possibility

A friend of mine is good at illustrator, you need a XML file? right? send me a private message with the details and i will do my best

Btw i was thinking about vinyl to help for painting job, using spray.. but why not directly sticking vinyl and poking the holes its a good idea

#7373 8 months ago

Morning all! I've searched through this thread and am wondering if anyone has seen or experienced this issue I'm seeing with my game. During attract mode, when the lights are moving around the playfield, I hear a faint buzz that almost seems to move with the lights. It's also happening duing actual gameplay, but with all the sounds and everything it's way less noticible.

I just picked up the maching last week and initially thought it was just the old incandescent bulbs actaully making the sounds themselves, but last night when I was working on the playfield I realized that it's actually coming form the down firing speaker in the bottom of the cabinet.

Does anyone know what might be causing this, and how I can remedy it? For what it's worth, I will be converting to full LED (minus flashers) within a week or two, so maybe this will help?

#7374 8 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Morning all! I've searched through this thread and am wondering if anyone has seen or experienced this issue I'm seeing with my game. During attract mode, when the lights are moving around the playfield, I hear a faint buzz that almost seems to move with the lights. It's also happening duing actual gameplay, but with all the sounds and everything it's way less noticible.
I just picked up the maching last week and initially thought it was just the old incandescent bulbs actaully making the sounds themselves, but last night when I was working on the playfield I realized that it's actually coming form the down firing speaker in the bottom of the cabinet.
Does anyone know what might be causing this, and how I can remedy it? For what it's worth, I will be converting to full LED (minus flashers) within a week or two, so maybe this will help?

It's normal. LEDs wont change it.

#7375 8 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

It's normal. LEDs wont change it.

Just came across a thread referencing the "Data East Hum". Guessing this is what I'm hearing?

#7376 8 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Just came across a thread referencing the "Data East Hum". Guessing this is what I'm hearing?

You can install an add-on DC power supply for the sound board to eliminate the speaker hum.

I have noticed my JP DMD is also noisy, making a ringing noise when bright graphics are displayed, which is a second source of hum.

#7377 8 months ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

I meant for like a stencil...but I bet vinyl would be close after poking all the holes lol
Yeah if I can get it into SVG it's definitely a possibility

Vinyl is not going to look good as speaker covers with all the holes punched in it, IMO. Personally, I would create a stencil set and paint, but of course your going to need to get close to the original colors.

Basically, I would paint grill a flat/satin black, apply the T-rex stencil (this could be vinyl) and the large punched circle to create the perimeter black ring, then paint yellow. With yellow dry apply a center circle cover to allow for painting the red ring. The T-Rex is going to be a pain with all the little teeth and bone spurs, but you might just want to hand paint those over the yellow.

IMG_3403.JPG
#7378 8 months ago

This speaker cover talk got me thinking that I've wanted to light might for awhile, but wanted a more inexpensive solution than what's out there. Given that the grills have a design on them and are recessed, I thought lighting them from the front with a strip that blends well (i.e. black, narrow, etc.) would be a good idea instead of backlighting them. While I think white LEDs would be ideal, I had a leftover red strip just big enough to do the two speakers (the red does coordinate well with the backglass coloring). So, using the strip, some Comet matrix cabling, and a little soldering here is what I came up with. The strips have to be cut every 3 LEDs, so I probably could have used one more length if my strips had been long enough.

I was hoping to offer instructions to others or even sell it as a kit to those who are adverse to soldering and such, but I can't seem to find the same/similar LED strips. These are only 3mm wide with about 3 LEDs per inch and have a black instead of white backing. I did have to cut off the plastic tubing that made them water proof and apply my own adhesive backing, but that wasn't a big deal. Also, these are 12V strips, but I didn't want them to be overly bright. When tapping into the 6V backbox LED circuit, the intensity of the light is nicely dimmed so as not to be blinding/distracting.

As an update, I have found some similar LED strips that I have to order from China, so it will take a couple of weeks to get them. Please PM me if you might be interested in a ready to install kit, and we can discuss options.
IMG_3410.JPGIMG_3404.JPGIMG_3406.JPGIMG_3409.JPG
IMG_3421 (resized).JPGIMG_3420 (resized).JPG

#7379 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

This speaker cover talk got me thinking that I've wanted to light might for awhile, but wanted a more inexpensive solution than what's out there. Given that the grills have a design on them and are recessed, I thought lighting them from the front with a strip that blends well (i.e. black, narrow, etc.) would be a good idea instead of backlighting them. While I think white LEDs would be ideal, I had a leftover red strip just big enough to do the two speakers (the red does coordinate well with the backglass coloring). So, using the strip, some Comet matrix cabling, and a little soldering here is what I came up with. The strips have to be cut every 3 LEDs, so I probably could have used one more length if my strips had been long enough.
I was hoping to offer instructions to others or even sell it as a kit to those who are adverse to soldering and such, but I can't seem to find the same/similar LED strips. These are only 3mm wide with about 3 LEDs per inch and have a black instead of white backing. I did have to cut off the plastic tubing that made them water proof and apply my own adhesive backing, but that wasn't a big deal. Also, these are 12V strips, but I didn't want them to be overly bright. When tapping into the 6V backbox LED circuit, the intensity of the light is nicely dimmed so as not to be blinding/distracting.
I'll keep looking for a good replacement (the strips I have were bought over 3 years ago, and no longer available), and if I find something I'll see if anyone else is interested in a ready-to-install kit.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You are right about lighting the painted grills from the front. When you put lights behind a painted grill you are going to really wash out the designs they have on them. That is why I recommend users of my Speaker Light Kit to mount any painted grills behind the light frames if possible. That is easy to do with Jurassic Park or any of the Data East games that have the painted grills. The exception would be Guns n' Roses, where the painted grills are stapled between the back of the plastic cover and the front of the actual speaker panel. On that one it is a bigger pain to get the grills removed to put behind the lights.

My light kits are RGB and also have adjustable brightness so they can be as bright or dim as a person would want them. It's just a touch of a button to adjust the brightness or to change the color of the lights. The lights are attached to a frame so they are not in direct view around the speaker hole.

Sorry the $45 price is off-putting.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Jurassic Park 2 (resized).jpg
#7380 8 months ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

Sorry the $45 price is off-putting.

Those do look nice. My cost comment was made with no particular offering in mind as I hadn't even really searched for what is already out there (I just know from others I bought in the past). I already had the red lights, and from experience on my Getaway having different colors and fade modes available from another vendor's LED speaker mod, personally I found that I prefer them to always be the same color and set at a constant low brightness.

#7381 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Those do look nice. My cost comment was made with no particular offering in mind as I hadn't even really searched for what is already out there (I just know from others I bought in the past). I already had the red lights, and from experience on my Getaway having different colors and fade modes available from another vendor's LED speaker mod, personally I found that I prefer them to always be the same color and set at a constant low brightness.

Good info to have. Thank you

#7382 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

The T-Rex is going to be a pain with all the little teeth and bone spurs, but you might just want to hand paint those over the yellow.[quoted image]

Mmmm... no way to paint by hand. But you gave me an idea, maybe i can patch paint the teeth and the bones in black over the yellow color . What do you think? the cutter machine can do that for me. I really want to be accurate with the original.

BTW Thanks for your help and for the picture

#7383 8 months ago
Quoted from jurassicpark93:

Mmmm... no way to paint by hand. But you gave me an idea, maybe i can patch paint the teeth and the bones in black over the yellow color . What do you think? the cutter machine can do that for me. I really want to be accurate with the original.
BTW Thanks for your help and for the picture

Yeah, that's exactly what I meant.

#7384 8 months ago

Or maybe ask if modfather can make you yellow ones
See link

https://modfatherpinball.com/products/jurassic-park-speaker-panel-frames

#7385 8 months ago

Ok guys looking for some help, my son took these videos a few days ago and I looked a few spots for what the problem is but I can’t find anything. Ball acts like you have plunged and starts randomly giving points but won’t shoot until you hit the trigger.

Thanks,

Dave

#7386 8 months ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Ok guys looking for some help, my son took these videos a few days ago and I looked a few spots for what the problem is but I can’t find anything. Ball acts like you have plunged and starts randomly giving points but won’t shoot until you hit the trigger.

Thanks,
Dave

“Drop target” was stuck, that was the launch problem but from time to time it is still giving random points on the left flipper.

#7387 8 months ago

Go into diagnostics and run a switch test.

Quoted from daveddd14:

“Drop target” was stuck, that was the launch problem but from time to time it is still giving random points on the left flipper.

Sometimes the vibration from the flipper can cause a switch to close. You can hit the playfield with your palm in random spots during switch test and see if any get triggered that shouldn't.

#7388 8 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

Go into diagnostics and run a switch test.

Sometimes the vibration from the flipper can cause a switch to close. You can hit the playfield with your palm in random spots during switch test and see if any get triggered that shouldn't.

Thanks, that did the trick. Now time to figure out what’s wrong with it.

77A714A2-CABB-417C-B1EB-527CF83FAEDA (resized).png
#7389 8 months ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Thanks, that did the trick. Now time to figure out what’s wrong with it.[quoted image]

Probably the contacts are too close together. My Tri target has a tendency to lean, which could cause them to be closer than normal. If your's is good and upright, I'd check how much space there is between them. If you do need to fix the gap, make sure the game is powered off.

#7390 8 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

Probably the contacts are too close together. My Tri target has a tendency to lean, which could cause them to be closer than normal. If your's is good and upright, I'd check how much space there is between them. If you do need to fix the gap, make sure the game is powered off.

Just came up to update everyone. Contacts were too close, took out the target seperated a little bit and boom fine.

Thank the thread as usual!

#7391 8 months ago

Hey Guys, looking for some help with my JP.
After about 2 hours of sitting idle it will go into a slam tilt and keep restarting.
I can play on it all night without anything happening, but if it sits idle it will start going this slam tilt thing.

I have tried unplugging the two plugs that goto the switch matrix (green and white wires) and it still happens. I have tired another CPU rom and taking the CPU out and looking at the transistors (q55) for some bad solder joints of problems.

Does anyone have any ideas?

#7392 8 months ago

Hey there, so I've owned my JP maching for a little over 2 weeks now and have been spending a bunch of time trying to dial it in as much as possible. I've only ever played one of these machines out on location before, so I have a couple questions about how the game "should" play in order to help me get it back in proper shape.

1. When launching the ball into the pops, I'm finding that frequently it's draining right down the middle, an average of around one ball per game. Since updating the code to 6.0, the increased ball save has helped with this - but for the inexperienced player it seems a little unforgiving? I'm wondering if this was "by design" or if there's something going on with my machine to cause this? For what it's worth, my pops are all fairly active (sometimes the left one doesn't always activate) and I have my machine set at a 6.5degree incline.

2. I've read on this forum that it's normal to have the a hole above the left inlane/outlane where a post normally would go. My machine doesn't have a post there, but it does have a mini bare metal post above the right inlane/outlane. Is it normal for the mini-post not to have a rubber? I've read people adding it, but am wondering if that's considered stock and maybe mine just fell out?

#7393 8 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Hey there, so I've owned my JP maching for a little over 2 weeks now and have been spending a bunch of time trying to dial it in as much as possible. I've only ever played one of these machines out on location before, so I have a couple questions about how the game "should" play in order to help me get it back in proper shape.
1. When launching the ball into the pops, I'm finding that frequently it's draining right down the middle, an average of around one ball per game. Since updating the code to 6.0, the increased ball save has helped with this - but for the inexperienced player it seems a little unforgiving? I'm wondering if this was "by design" or if there's something going on with my machine to cause this? For what it's worth, my pops are all fairly active (sometimes the left one doesn't always activate) and I have my machine set at a 6.5degree incline.
2. I've read on this forum that it's normal to have the a hole above the left inlane/outlane where a post normally would go. My machine doesn't have a post there, but it does have a mini bare metal post above the right inlane/outlane. Is it normal for the mini-post not to have a rubber? I've read people adding it, but am wondering if that's considered stock and maybe mine just fell out?

Make sure the game is level side to side. It still happens from time to time but probably shouldn't happen once a game but it does happen, nudging is your friend, I was at 730 million last night going into ball 3 and it went SDTM out of the pops twice, game over...

The post didn't fall out, I think all JP have that hole there but no post although there is some debate whether or not some had the post from the factory.
It's totally up to you if you want to add one.

#7394 8 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Finally was able to join the club a few days ago after picking up my JP Machine! I was lucky enough to jump on one that was in a family basement for just over 20years. I went through the audit tables and found it had around 1700 total balls played and not one System Failure. Hoping to be the one to eventually make it!
Playfield is immaculate, and everything else seems to be in great working order, just needs a little cleaning. Also, can't wait to brighten it up with some LEDs!
Only issue I'm currently having is sometimes the T-Rex will pick up the ball, but not swallow it. It just hangs out in his mouth while the game tries to find it. Pretty frustrating, but I've only had it for 48hrs so far.[quoted image]

This is a common issue.
First, go into Trex diagnostic mode and press the launch trigger : this shoid normally activate the jaw, but I presume that it won't do in your case.

So, power up the machine and shut the power when the Trex is bent. U now have access to 2 screws in the back of tRex' neck. Remove these screws.

You'll see a grey lead. The insulation is probably broken somewhere, so that the wires inside sometimes make contact but loose contact when the Trex is bent.

#7395 8 months ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Make sure the game is level side to side. It still happens from time to time but probably shouldn't happen once a game but it does happen, nudging is your friend, I was at 730 million last night going into ball 3 and it went SDTM out of the pops twice, game over...
The post didn't fall out, I think all JP have that hole there but no post although there is some debate whether or not some had the post from the factory.
It's totally up to you if you want to add one.

Got it! I'll make sure it's level horizontally, but appreciate the confirmation that it indeed DOES happen and is meant to. I'm also going to leave the rubbers off the right post. I'm terrible at nudging right now, and thinking that it'll help me learn, especially with a machine finally in the home.

It's pretty cool having a fellow JP owner in the Twin Cities area. I think there's a few of us around here, but it's looking like you have quite the collection. My high score is currently around 200k, so I've got a ways to go score-wise.

Quoted from softail:

This is a common issue.
First, go into Trex diagnostic mode and press the launch trigger : this shoid normally activate the jaw, but I presume that it won't do in your case.
So, power up the machine and shut the power when the Trex is bent. U now have access to 2 screws in the back of tRex' neck. Remove these screws.
You'll see a grey lead. The insulation is probably broken somewhere, so that the wires inside sometimes make contact but loose contact when the Trex is bent.

Appreciate the follow-up on this. I took apart Mr. T-Rex last weekend and found there was alot of slop in the jaw and the piece that connects down to the coil. Alot of it was from the connection hole being warn out. As a temporary fix, I put a thin zip tie in there to close some of the gap, and it seems to be working pretty well so far. Thank you all!

#7396 8 months ago

So I am the market for my first pinball, and have always wanted Jurassic Park as it was my favorite movie as a young kid.

I really want to like this game, but am finding it to be pretty difficult and not that fun. There's a local arcade where I've played it regulary. I put $20 in the machine yesterday and I think my highest score was 165M. Never hit Chaos, and only got Tri-balls and jackpots rarely. I know the strategy at least at a high level too. I keep playing, waiting for it to grow on me, and it isn't happening. The other pins there, like Pirates of the Car., Star Trek, or Medieval Madness are much more enjoyable. There's also a Star Wars DE there, and I liked it at first but that game is almost too easy (repeat shots) and I have no trouble getting replays on it.

I noted that the table had the Cliffy scoop protectors and made that makes them harder to hit? No other mods or board issues that I could tell. Also, I feel like I was getting drains constantly, to the point where it was laughable how easy they'd drain.

Don't know if I have a question, just sharing my frustration. I am OK paying $3k+ for a game, but I want to like it. I guess I'll try to play a different JP somewhere else so I can give it a fair chance.

#7397 8 months ago
Quoted from Xjship:

So I am the market for my first pinball, and have always wanted Jurassic Park as it was my favorite movie as a young kid.
I really want to like this game, but am finding it to be pretty difficult and not that fun. There's a local arcade where I've played it regulary. I put $20 in the machine yesterday and I think my highest score was 165M. Never hit Chaos, and only got Tri-balls and jackpots rarely. I know the strategy at least at a high level too. I keep playing, waiting for it to grow on me, and it isn't happening. The other pins there, like Pirates of the Car., Star Trek, or Medieval Madness are much more enjoyable. There's also a Star Wars DE there, and I liked it at first but that game is almost too easy (repeat shots) and I have no trouble getting replays on it.
I noted that the table had the Cliffy scoop protectors and made that makes them harder to hit? No other mods or board issues that I could tell. Also, I feel like I was getting drains constantly, to the point where it was laughable how easy they'd drain.
Don't know if I have a question, just sharing my frustration. I am OK paying $3k+ for a game, but I want to like it. I guess I'll try to play a different JP somewhere else so I can give it a fair chance.

Personally, I would not choose JP as my first/only pin. The game is challenging and the flow is not very smooth like many games. If you have multiple games, then I think it is a great addition since it seems to play quite differently than the Williams games of the same era. Also, when it comes time for me to sell a pin (I only have room for 3), this one will be the first to go (albeit, I hope to command top dollar given its condition and all of the mods I've added to it - might price me out of selling it)

As far as progressing through the modes, I've owned mine for about a year now. I've probably made it through to the computer shutdown 5 or 6 times which I do find fun and rewarding. I can get to CHAOS fairly regularly, but it does seem like it takes a little work. For me, the theme is great, T-Rex is awesome, and the pin is fun to mod with personal touches.

Bottom line is that when I just want to have a fun game that I know I can dominate, I go to my Getaway. When I want some good flow but want to try to achieve an objective, I go to my Attack from Mars (I've yet to rule the universe). When I want to work a little and be serious about things, I go to my Jurassic Park.

BTW, here are each of the games you mentioned in the Pinside Top 100:

#1 - Medieval Madness
#5 - Pirates of the Caribbean
#14 - Star Trek
#40 - Star Wars
#75 - Jurassic Park

Which one is the outlier? Not that the rankings are the end-all, be-all for what you should like, but they do represent the pinball community's overall fondness of a particular game given all of the subjective factors that are polled.

Of course, you could always step up to the new Stern JP, which is a completely different game (2-3 times the cost, however). It has quickly earned positive praise from the community as a very good game.

#7398 8 months ago
Quoted from Xjship:

So I am the market for my first pinball, and have always wanted Jurassic Park as it was my favorite movie as a young kid.
I really want to like this game, but am finding it to be pretty difficult and not that fun. There's a local arcade where I've played it regulary. I put $20 in the machine yesterday and I think my highest score was 165M. Never hit Chaos, and only got Tri-balls and jackpots rarely. I know the strategy at least at a high level too. I keep playing, waiting for it to grow on me, and it isn't happening. The other pins there, like Pirates of the Car., Star Trek, or Medieval Madness are much more enjoyable. There's also a Star Wars DE there, and I liked it at first but that game is almost too easy (repeat shots) and I have no trouble getting replays on it.
I noted that the table had the Cliffy scoop protectors and made that makes them harder to hit? No other mods or board issues that I could tell. Also, I feel like I was getting drains constantly, to the point where it was laughable how easy they'd drain.
Don't know if I have a question, just sharing my frustration. I am OK paying $3k+ for a game, but I want to like it. I guess I'll try to play a different JP somewhere else so I can give it a fair chance.

It was my first pin and I loved it. You also get a lot of bang for your buck. On location you probably don't have 6.0 code and it is the final polish the title needs. If you want to spend double or triple by all means Medieval Madness is the better game. In the home environment you should have no trouble setting it up a JP so its enjoyable and plays well. Tri-ball and Chaos are pretty easy to achieve with smart missile so set up properly you should get them in more games than you don't.

#7399 8 months ago
Quoted from Xjship:

So I am the market for my first pinball, and have always wanted Jurassic Park as it was my favorite movie as a young kid.
I really want to like this game, but am finding it to be pretty difficult and not that fun. There's a local arcade where I've played it regulary. I put $20 in the machine yesterday and I think my highest score was 165M. Never hit Chaos, and only got Tri-balls and jackpots rarely. I know the strategy at least at a high level too. I keep playing, waiting for it to grow on me, and it isn't happening. The other pins there, like Pirates of the Car., Star Trek, or Medieval Madness are much more enjoyable. There's also a Star Wars DE there, and I liked it at first but that game is almost too easy (repeat shots) and I have no trouble getting replays on it.
I noted that the table had the Cliffy scoop protectors and made that makes them harder to hit? No other mods or board issues that I could tell. Also, I feel like I was getting drains constantly, to the point where it was laughable how easy they'd drain.
Don't know if I have a question, just sharing my frustration. I am OK paying $3k+ for a game, but I want to like it. I guess I'll try to play a different JP somewhere else so I can give it a fair chance.

Where are you located?

#7400 8 months ago

Hi, which mods are still in production and sale for our JP data east? Thanks

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