(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club

By louknees

10 years ago


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  • 576 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 44 hours ago by vec-tor
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#7201 4 years ago

First of all, welcome to the club. I don't know that I can address your specific issues, but I will say that my initial experience with this game was a little love-hate. I bought mine from a friend last year who took excellent care of all his pins, and had done a lot with his JP. When I bought it I had a side-to-side movement T-Rex issue and a couple of other little things. It took a little time, but I got them all worked out and ended up even doing several mods and customizations.

Be patient and you'll get things worked out. The group here has been really helpful to me, and I'm sure those with knowledge will give you some direction. I think the ball trough issue may be a fairly common one that others have experienced, and I'm wondering if the sound is related. For example, if a certain switch triggers that sound and it is stuck/faulty or something then that sound me be continuously triggered until a subsequent event occurs.

If you run a switch test, what errors (if any) are you receiving?

#7202 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

The bigger problem (amongst many) is that now I have this music sound (T-Rex Stomp) that comes on at the beginning and will NOT STOP. It repeats, UNTIL - I hit the start game button - once that happens, it joyfully reminds me that I am "missing 6 balls" even though they are there, and then the sound goes away. The attract music plays just fine once the cycle has been completed, but if I reboot the machine, here comes the sound again.

I recommend going into the Diagnostics and doing a switch test. Eject all the balls and check all switches. Then put the balls back in and check all switches.

#7203 4 years ago

Is it normal for the board to look discolored from the heat?

#7204 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

The bigger problem (amongst many) is that now I have this music sound (T-Rex Stomp) that comes on at the beginning and will NOT STOP. It repeats, UNTIL - I hit the start game button - once that happens, it joyfully reminds me that I am "missing 6 balls" even though they are there, and then the sound goes away. The attract music plays just fine once the cycle has been completed, but if I reboot the machine, here comes the sound again.
Please help me! I am new (very) new to the pinball world, I have had 2 projects in the past and both had to be sold because I couldn't figure them out! I bought a working machine, got home with a working machine - and somehow 12 hours later - I have a non-working machine! The wife is rather bummed to have spent north of 3k and we can't even use it!
Here's a video to my sound issue!

One step at a time.

If you are new new, here's how to do what others are suggesting. Open the coin door, press in the green button (so that it is lowered) inside and to the left, then push the black button. That will take you into the diagnostics. Push the black button again until you get to Active Switch Test. It will show you all the switches that are currently closed. My JP cycles through the following, Trough 1 - 6 and Trex Center and Trex Up. If your Rex is to the left or right, it may show that instead of center. No big deal. However, if anything else is showing, you'll want to check to see why the switch is currently closed.

That's where I would start. If everything looks good to go there, then I would continue pressing the black button until getting to the coil test. It will cycle through coils and flashers. You should be able to hear them kick when they come up on the screen. If not, your problems may lay elsewhere. Hopefully this will give you a place to start looking.

#7205 4 years ago

Hey folks,

Does anyone have any tips on how to replace the ball launcher? I got a replacement part from Stern, but it seems the original was soldered directly in. Am I best off just cutting the wires and attaching this new stern one in, or is it best for me to add a quick disconnect for the new Stern launcher to hook up to? I know this is a very simple question, but I am new to this and trying not to make more problems for myself! Thanks all.

#7206 4 years ago

Reason I asked about the board getting hot is because I’m having a crackling noise out of the upper right speaker. Thought the speaker was bad. Replaced all 3 but still hear the crackling noise out of just that speaker. Any suggestions on what to do next? It’s a crackling sound not the data east hum.

#7207 4 years ago
Quoted from spent85:

Hey folks,
Does anyone have any tips on how to replace the ball launcher? I got a replacement part from Stern, but it seems the original was soldered directly in. Am I best off just cutting the wires and attaching this new stern one in, or is it best for me to add a quick disconnect for the new Stern launcher to hook up to? I know this is a very simple question, but I am new to this and trying not to make more problems for myself! Thanks all.

Wrong group. This is for DE Jurassic park. Check the Stern JP group

#7208 4 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

One step at a time.
If you are new new, here's how to do what others are suggesting. Open the coin door, press in the green button (so that it is lowered) inside and to the left, then push the black button. That will take you into the diagnostics. Push the black button again until you get to Active Switch Test. It will show you all the switches that are currently closed. My JP cycles through the following, Trough 1 - 6 and Trex Center and Trex Up. If your Rex is to the left or right, it may show that instead of center. No big deal. However, if anything else is showing, you'll want to check to see why the switch is currently closed.
That's where I would start. If everything looks good to go there, then I would continue pressing the black button until getting to the coil test. It will cycle through coils and flashers. You should be able to hear them kick when they come up on the screen. If not, your problems may lay elsewhere. Hopefully this will give you a place to start looking.

Thanks for the reply and everyone else! Here's a video I took of the switch/coil tests. I know the left scoop is activated because I was manually trying to get balls out, and one rolled right in there, and I don't know how to remove it.

#7209 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

Thanks for the reply and everyone else! Here's a video I took of the switch/coil tests. I know the left scoop is activated because I was manually trying to get balls out, and one rolled right in there, and I don't know how to remove it.

I would have left the balls in the trough to see if the switches are recognizing them since your game was giving you a missing pinball error originally.

This could be as simple as a loose connector. It looks like the coils for J1 are not firing but your auto launch is, which is on J2. With power off, plug and unplug that connector from the board in the backbox, then power back up and head into diagnostics.

PPB (resized).pngPPB (resized).png
#7210 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Wrong group. This is for DE Jurassic park. Check the Stern JP group

Can everyone please continue to bombard the OP to change the name of this thread to include "DE" or "Data East"?

#7211 4 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

I would have left the balls in the trough to see if the switches are recognizing them since your game was giving you a missing pinball error originally.
This could be as simple as a loose connector. It looks like the coils for J1 are not firing but your auto launch is, which is on J2. With power off, plug and unplug that connector from the board in the backbox, then power back up and head into diagnostics.[quoted image]

I will give that a try right now!

Additionally - it seems I have solved the sound issue! I actually wrote the solution myself.....I mentioned when I was manually removing the balls, one of them fell into the scoop. I took a magnet and got the ball out, and that fixed the sound. I guess since that switch was active, and the coil won't spit it out - it just decided to keep firing the sound! I've only tested that once - but it certainly fixed it the one time! I'll report back on J1 soon!

#7212 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

The bigger problem (amongst many) is that now I have this music sound (T-Rex Stomp) that comes on at the beginning and will NOT STOP. It repeats, UNTIL - I hit the start game button - once that happens, it joyfully reminds me that I am "missing 6 balls"

It sounds like there are a few things going on, so concentrate on things that cause multiple issues. Start with the easy stuff: Check the fuses and reseat the ribbon cables in the backbox.

Are there 6 balls in the trough or is one in the subway, etc?

If you enter the diagnostics, are there any messages?

#7213 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

I will give that a try right now!
Additionally - it seems I have solved the sound issue! I actually wrote the solution myself.....I mentioned when I was manually removing the balls, one of them fell into the scoop. I took a magnet and got the ball out, and that fixed the sound. I guess since that switch was active, and the coil won't spit it out - it just decided to keep firing the sound! I've only tested that once - but it certainly fixed it the one time! I'll report back on J1 soon!

I've got my fingers crossed that it all worked out and you haven't reported back because everyone is having an awesome time playing JP.

#7214 4 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

I've got my fingers crossed that it all worked out and you haven't reported back because everyone is having an awesome time playing JP.

Neither yet! The wife caught me to do a "chore"......should be just a few!

#7215 4 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

I've got my fingers crossed that it all worked out and you haven't reported back because everyone is having an awesome time playing JP.

No dice! I wonder if there is any chance since the ball trough switch is completely removed - with contacts dangling - since the switch broke is causing it to not complete some circuit or something?

#7216 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

Here's a video I took of the switch/coil tests.

Switch test is saying your Left Scoop is active. It should not be. Focus on that area.

#7217 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Switch test is saying your Left Scoop is active. It should not be. Focus on that area.

Already fixed that one. When I was manually removing the balls. One fell in there. I left it thinking it would be fine. Turns out that was the cause of the music to continuously play

#7218 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Wrong group. This is for DE Jurassic park. Check the Stern JP group

I'm talking about a DE JP. The autolauncher replacement is a Stern style part (cross reffed with the manual), so it has a quick disconnect. The original launcher seems to be soldered directly in and has no quick disconnect anywhere near it. I am asking if anyone here has replaced their auto launcher and if they just snipped wired and did a quick solder to get the new one in, or if they had any tips on how to add a quick disconnect to this part. I do not own a 2019 JP though wish I did.

#7219 4 years ago

Turdbol

Okay with things being fixed along the way, what all is not working right now? The way I understand it there a 6 balls missing error and you say there is wires dangling near there, from a missing through switch? Is that all the issues now?

#7220 4 years ago
Quoted from spent85:

I'm talking about a DE JP. The autolauncher replacement is a Stern style part (cross reffed with the manual), so it has a quick disconnect. The original launcher seems to be soldered directly in and has no quick disconnect anywhere near it. I am asking if anyone here has replaced their auto launcher and if they just snipped wired and did a quick solder to get the new one in, or if they had any tips on how to add a quick disconnect to this part. I do not own a 2019 JP though wish I did.

Sorry thought you were talking about the other game. When you say autolunch, do you mean just replacing the ball launch coil?

#7221 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Sorry thought you were talking about the other game. When you say autolunch, do you mean just replacing the ball launch coil?

I'm going to take some pictures tonight and show you all what Im talking about. More or less yes that's what I'm doing, but I have to replace the whole part because the "backstop" was either sheared or cut off by the previous owner :/. Looking at my posts I see how unclear I am, so I do apologize, I will be back after dinner with some pictures of what I'm up to!

#7222 4 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

turdbol
Okay with things being fixed along the way, what all is not working right now? The way I understand it there a 6 balls missing error and you say there is wires dangling near there, from a missing through switch? Is that all the issues now?

So when I could not get a ball to eject - the first thing I did was check the switch on the ball trough. The ball would push it - and not fire the coil. I thought the switch must be bad since the coil just worked. I unscrewed the switch and it literally fell apart (see photo). I disconnected the switch to remove the remaining piece and the wires now just hang (see photo 2). I have ordered a new switch.

So right now - I have the “missing 6 ball” error and (I think) all the coils related to J2 not firing.

5CD31035-1456-4C9B-821D-72814B005089 (resized).jpeg5CD31035-1456-4C9B-821D-72814B005089 (resized).jpeg8E778E09-1775-4F5D-9938-CDCCB4222D05 (resized).jpeg8E778E09-1775-4F5D-9938-CDCCB4222D05 (resized).jpeg Added over 4 years ago:

Meant J1 instead of J2

#7223 4 years ago

Ok folks,

Sorry again for my inital description. I hope these pictures will help along with my new explanation. Basically, I am trying to replace the auto launcher because the backstop (brass and rubber piece) is entirely missing. This obviously renders the game unplayable. I ordered a new part, and when it arrived it seemed to have a quick-disconnect type hookup. I looked at my machine, but it appears as though the wires for the auto launcher are maybe soldered directly in? I see no quick connect for it and it just ends up with all the other wires.

Initially, I thought I would just be able to replace this part, but now I'm wondering if my course of action is to split the current connection, figure out how to attach the other end of the quick connect and go to town. I fear soldering in the new piece would just make problems later if it ever needed replaced again. I am sorry that this is such a simple question, I just have never soldered before and would need to probably hire someone, so I want to be sure I know exactly what to ask for!

IMG_0413 (resized).JPGIMG_0413 (resized).JPGIMG_2095 (resized).JPGIMG_2095 (resized).JPGIMG_6113 (resized).JPGIMG_6113 (resized).JPGIMG_8755 (resized).JPGIMG_8755 (resized).JPGIMG_8878 (resized).JPGIMG_8878 (resized).JPG
#7224 4 years ago
Quoted from spent85:

Ok folks,
Sorry again for my inital description. I hope these pictures will help along with my new explanation. Basically, I am trying to replace the auto launcher because the backstop (brass and rubber piece) is entirely missing. This obviously renders the game unplayable. I ordered a new part, and when it arrived it seemed to have a quick-disconnect type hookup. I looked at my machine, but it appears as though the wires for the auto launcher are maybe soldered directly in? I see no quick connect for it and it just ends up with all the other wires.
Initially, I thought I would just be able to replace this part, but now I'm wondering if my course of action is to split the current connection, figure out how to attach the other end of the quick connect and go to town. I fear soldering in the new piece would just make problems later if it ever needed replaced again. I am sorry that this is such a simple question, I just have never soldered before and would need to probably hire someone, so I want to be sure I know exactly what to ask for![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If there is nothing wrong with your current coil, remove your current auto launch assembly and drop your coil into your new assembly. Reinstall the assembly. No soldering required.

#7225 4 years ago

Just to further update here, I have fixed the "6 balls missing" - this was due to 2 balls being in the same spot, and ultimately causing every ball to be missing the switch. I did a switch test - and all of them register. I checked the active switches and now troughs 1-6 are active.

Current problems....

1. Broken switch.
2. Coils associated to J1 not firing.

#7226 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

Just to further update here, I have fixed the "6 balls missing" - this was due to 2 balls being in the same spot, and ultimately causing every ball to be missing the switch. I did a switch test - and all of them register. I checked the active switches and now troughs 1-6 are active.
Current problems....
1. Broken switch.
2. Coils associated to J1 not firing.

Is there power at the coils?

#7227 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Is there power at the coils?

I test that by putting a meter on one lug of the coil and the other on the ground strap inside the cabinet correct?

EDIT: I looked it up to confirm I was correct. I tested the coils power by placing one probe on the ground strap and the other on a lug. I got 0V at the coil. I tested this with another coil within the game (not the flipper coil) and had just over 40v at that coil. So I believe I can say that I do **not** have power at the coils.

EDIT 2: See post below!

#7228 4 years ago

Well - I don't know what I did - but I "think" I fixed it. I measured the voltage again at the coil, and still read 0v. I went into the back box and pulled out every fuse in the back box and one by one, tested them again. They all tested fine. After that, I opted to test the coil again - and this time....it had 40v. I thought "Well, maybe its because the coin door is closed" - I opened the coin door and measured again - still had 40v. I don't know why there's even an interlock there to be honest, nothing hits it.

But - now that I had 40v, I ran the coil test again - and this time it fired!!!!! I don't know if this is an indicator of something else being wrong and it happens to be "right" for right now, or if maybe one of the fuses needed to be reseated, or if this is a fluke, but for right now, all 6 ball trough switches are ON and active, and all the coils seem to be firing! Once I get this switch - we may be good to go! - Or at least I hope! The switch is due on Friday, but I think someone locally has one I can get sooner!

#7229 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

maybe one of the fuses needed to be reseated, or if this is a fluke,

A fuse can be loose or maybe the fuse holder is not making a good connection to the board. It could also be an intermittent connection somewhere. If the issues returns, start again checking for the voltage at the coil.

#7230 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

A fuse can be loose or maybe the fuse holder is not making a good connection to the board. It could also be an intermittent connection somewhere. If the issues returns, start again checking for the voltage at the coil.

And Data East fuse clips have been known to be brittle and bend/break. Of course, reseating a fuse typically makes it worse, not better.

#7231 4 years ago

I’m going to ask a “noob” question here, but what is this component (white) and are they supposed to get pretty hot?

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#7232 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

I’m going to ask a “noob” question here, but what is this component (white) and are they supposed to get pretty hot?[quoted image]

Yes, they will get pretty darn hot. Follow the URL below which offers a bit more detail.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/139#post-5179747

Gord

#7233 4 years ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Yes, they will get pretty darn hot. Follow the URL below which offers a bit more detail.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/139#post-5179747
Gord

Thank you so much!

#7234 4 years ago

As stated before they get hot, but if you dont feel good about the temperature they are causing lets say extremely hot at the board
You can replace them easely and raise them a little higher for better air flow.
There was a topic on resistors somewhere sometime, ill try to find it.
There were some pictures of boards that were toasted.

But again, they just get hot.

#7236 4 years ago

Pinball workshop chanel on youtube
JP shop out

#7237 4 years ago

I wanted to show my newly designed 3D printed caution tape flipper toppers for the DE Jurassic Park. I sell them for $15 for the set of 3 which includes US postage (add $3 for international postage). As always, please PM me and see http://thezumwaltfamily.com/jppinball for all of my JP mods.

BTW, I think I’ve carried the caution tape theme about as far as I can on this game. Was concerned I was overdoing it (kind of my nature), but I really like how the game has turned out.

IMG_3237.JPGIMG_3237.JPGIMG_3238.JPGIMG_3238.JPGIMG_3239.JPGIMG_3239.JPGIMG_3240.JPGIMG_3240.JPGIMG_3241.JPGIMG_3241.JPGIMG_3242.JPGIMG_3242.JPG

#7238 4 years ago

Just wanted to say THANK YOU to everyone here. Got my new switch in today, installed it - and everything is back to playing properly! Still am awful, but my only pinball machine is back to 100%. Now for some mods!

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#7239 4 years ago
Quoted from Turdbol:

Just wanted to say THANK YOU to everyone here. Got my new switch in today, installed it - and everything is back to playing properly! Still am awful, but my only pinball machine is back to 100%. Now for some mods![quoted image]

Congrats on being back up and running! Enjoy the game some, then it’s time to get busy putting your own style on it.

#7240 4 years ago

Does anyone have or know where you can purchase a new bracket as shown in the picture below? (badly... One kludgy replacement as found and one imperfect attempt at recreation). This is the bracket that attaches the whole T-rex piece to the Up/Down motor under the playfield. See also - Out of Stock Part # at Marcos

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-6657-00

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#7241 4 years ago

I've had a couple of people ask about my 3D flipper bat toppers concerned that they wouldn't lie flat because of the raised DE on the OEM bats. This issue has been accounted for in my design, and the toppers are a perfect fit that lies completely flat on top of the bat.

JP (resized).pngJP (resized).pngJP (resized).jpgJP (resized).jpg
#7242 4 years ago

Hi.
Today we (I and my wife) went into our game room to playwith our pinballs.
One of them is a Jurassic Park DE.
We turned it on and all lights were lighting, the display was off, the pin was not starting his program.
After about one minute, the display turned slowly on and the pin started to make the test with the dyno.
Finished the test, I started the game pushing the start button but no sound was playing.
After 1/2 minute the voice started to play and after some seconds the music too.
It seems the pin works right only when.it is "warm".
What do I have to look to, to avoid this problem ?

#7243 4 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

We turned it on and all lights were lighting, the display was off, the pin was not starting his program.
After about one minute, the display turned slowly on and the pin started to make the test with the dyno.
Finished the test, I started the game pushing the start button but no sound was playing.
After 1/2 minute the voice started to play and after some seconds the music too.
It seems the pin works right only when.it is "warm".

That is weird! Are the batteries in the backbox leaking and causing some CPU issue?

#7244 4 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

Hi.
Today we (I and my wife) went into our game room to playwith our pinballs.
One of them is a Jurassic Park DE.
We turned it on and all lights were lighting, the display was off, the pin was not starting his program.
After about one minute, the display turned slowly on and the pin started to make the test with the dyno.
Finished the test, I started the game pushing the start button but no sound was playing.
After 1/2 minute the voice started to play and after some seconds the music too.
It seems the pin works right only when.it is "warm".
What do I have to look to, to avoid this problem ?

Leaking capacitors on your power supply. Some research in pinside and you can find which ones need to be replaced. Or just buy a new rottendog or xpin power supply

#7245 4 years ago
Quoted from kba78:

Leaking capacitors on your power supply. Some research in pinside and you can find which ones need to be replaced. Or just buy a new rottendog or xpin power supply

Hint at bottom right corner...

Screenshot_20200109-025458_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200109-025458_Chrome (resized).jpg
#7246 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

That is weird! Are the batteries in the backbox leaking and causing some CPU issue?

Thank you. The batteries are ok. I changed them anyway. No leaking or damage is present around the area.
But I solved the problem.
I show it in the next post.

#7247 4 years ago

Davi and kba78'
You both were right.
Thank you really much for the help.
C2 was dead.
I bought all the new capacitors of the board from a shop here in town. I was lucky founding all.
It was not simple to change them because all them are solded really good.
It tooks me about 2 hours.
Again a confirmation, even if not needed, that pinside is a great community.

IMG_20200110_175015 (resized).jpgIMG_20200110_175015 (resized).jpgIMG_20200110_180039 (resized).jpgIMG_20200110_180039 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#7248 4 years ago

Hey, I just noticed our club finally got renamed. Thank you OP!

#7249 4 years ago

I want to say Hello to all of you.

Lucky owner a JP DE since last year.
I have been playing and dreaming about this game since 1993, and very happy to have it home.
Got some little details to fix, but nothing serious.

By the way, thank you for all for your posts, as they are going to be very helpfull to me.

See you soon on the forum

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#7250 4 years ago

Hi! Bonjour
Welcome... to jurassic park!
What are the things you have in your speakers?

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Pinballrom
 
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
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