I'm working on replacing the raptor put coil and components on the PPB. I have the coil temporarily wired up with alligator clips for testing. I'm not sure if I am going to have to work upstream from there on the MPU.

It works fine in the coil test, but I notice it seems to fire once when I switch the game off. Perhaps I never paid attention and this has always happened, but I wanted to check what others have happening in their games.

I'm also not sure what to point to for what caused the most recent failure and coil meltdown. The 50v fuse did not blow when the coil shorted. I'll have to check the value to make sure it's right. The coil and PPB components for the raptor pit were replaced by me at some point within the last few years. Anyone know what I could do to better preserve this?

Where did you get the chip from? I got a chip from Marco did the same thing called them they sent a new one and it did the same thing. Finally had someone from pinside burn one and it worked great

Meloyelo51 is your best source for the v6 ROM set.

/\This

we just got one and need a couple parts for the t rex unit:
cant find any through the normal online stores.

JURASSIC PARK (DE) Dino motor cam (set screw part is stripped, original screw just turns and turns and doesn't tighten against motor post)
#515-5814-00

#265-5017-01 (missing)

Data East / Sega / Stern pinball machine extension spring.

Help!

thats who they came from. Im confident that the rom is ok. I will just have to solder in a new IC socket. I think one of those 3 spots is the culprit.

Maybe you can try to repair it first somehow? Whatever your course, good luck.

So, I don't know if I've really shared this or not in the JP thread, but I'm pretty much a PinSound junkie. I absolutely love their products and the life they bring to classic pins. Over the last couple of years have decked out my Getaway and Jurassic Park pins with PinSound sound boards, speakers, accessories, and even the new shaker in my Getaway. I've personally authored or contributed to about 20 custom orchestrations (have lead the charge for The Getaway), and recently even did the development for the default shaker routine for The Getaway that PinSound distributes with shakers for that game.

Anyway, since my JP already has an OEM shaker (albeit somewhat limited, it seems to me) I assumed that all JPs had one, and that their really wasn't a PinSound shaker market for this title. After recently communicating with Nicolas from PinSound, it seems that several JP owners have been asking him for shakers. As a result, I've decided to put a PinSound shaker in my JP and to develop the "shakerization" as I call it, which I will openly share with PinSound for distribution with all shakers sold for JP.

It will probably take me a couple of weeks to get the shaker, install it, and develop the shaker routine, but something I'm definitely committed to and looking forward to doing. The good news is that once complete, anyone who already has or orders a PinSound shaker kit will have full and complete integrated shaker action for the game out of the box with no programming required (assuming current PinSound firmware and orchestration following new convention is installed). Alternatively, if anyone feels adventurous and wants to create their own JP shakerization or modify my version, they will be easily and quickly able to do so using the free PinSound Studio Pro program.

Anyway, thought I would give everyone who owns a JP with a PinSound unit a heads up on what was coming very soon.

Does anyone have a trex tongue decal that would work to replace the stock one? Something like the winteriscoming ’s replacement decal?

The official one is at Marco's:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-6030-05

If you want to DIY, they're providing a good enough pic that you could print your own on sticker paper and laminate it with packing tape or something.

Which is the one you use? I thought it was different

I designed my own to go along with the improved t-rex, but it's not one I plan to share publicly. For the stock t-rex, since it doesn't have teeth, the original is probably more appropriate being that the decal has teeth on it.

Ah, totally understandable - I just didnt like the look of the teeth on that OEM sticker.

Takes about 2 minutes to remove them in Windows Paint, easy task.

Not if you buy a set of my T-Rex teeth

Don't you hate it when you post in the wrong thread then you have to type something stupid since you can't delete the post?

If someone would provide me with dimensions, I'd be happy to either create one for you to print yourself or I would make it and send to you for a few bucks.

Hi guys anyone of you have a JP with an pin2dmd in color?
NOOB in need of help allert!!!

Pulling my hairs out, cant get it to work with the colorfile only in 3 colors

I don't think anyone has done a colorization for JP on PIN2DMD yet (I could be wrong). However, you can set a PIN2DMD to any color pallet you would like for the 3-4 shades: e.g. instead of an orange DMD you could have a red one, a blue one, and yellow one, etc.

For current colorization info your best bet might be to explore the VP forums as these guys usually take the lead on PIN2DMD colorizations: http://vpuniverse.com

Did you see this thread? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pin2dmd-colorization-of-jurassic-park#post-4243552

Oh, I just see you posted in it. What files do you have on your SD card?

thats where my trouble begain!

Gonna start with a clean sd tomorrow, and got help from Malenko.
He makes real great collor fikes and has converted a file for me for real pinball.
The VP forms got tons of info, but after reading almost everything, i still found nothing on this.
The problem is also a lot of the posts are about virtual pins.

The colorization process is roughly the same for VP and real. You just have to generate and copy the real pin files from your colorization.

Can you posts screen capture of the root of your SD card?

This is all i get

15731543029144165323966519385247 (resized).jpg

I have a quick question. At times i am getting a one ball missing message or two ball missing message then the game resets? Could this be that the batteries need changing. They are not very old. Less than a year. Let me know if this has happened to anyone else. Thanks.

The trough switches are notoriously bad on this machine. Search this topic for recommendations on diagnosing/fixing/replacing.

Put the pin in switch test mode and check the trough switches.......mine did this once...

Looks like you have the correct files (at least the right extensions).

Thanks for all the info. I will try to figure out what’s going on

Hi everyone, I have been working on restoring my JP for nearly a year and she is just about done. I can't figure out if I am maybe missing a post. My game has a post at the entrance to the right outlane with a 3/16 rubber on it. You can see it in the rubber diagram in the manual, a picture is attached. The left outlane does not have a post and rubber on it despite it being indicated in the manual. There is a small pilot hole drilled in that location. Is this optional? What is the typical configuration people have? I have tried to look at other folks playfield picks but its a hard area to see being under the ramp.

jp-rubbers (resized).PNG

No post by default. I think a few have added one, but most have not. I've kept mine post free.

Within the month of getting Chad's code after it was released, I set a score in the 600 millions. I have not been able to beat it since. So, it's a good feat for sure!

Hello Guys, interest check about next batch of ball trough opto board:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/interest-check-data-east-ball-trough-opto-board-#post-5306124

Hi, what is the measurement in inches of the screws used for screwing the data east boards into the backbox? Thanks

Does anyone know where I can find a plastic trough liner for divots for JP Data East? I can only find 3 ball multi ball version or Williams version online

Mylar? Not sure I understand what you're looking for.

I’m looking for something like this

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/special-parts/4288/ball-trough-protector

Never heard of or seen such a thing. I guess I'm still a little confused on the purpose/need. Are you trying to prevent divots where the ball drains and falls into the trough (is that a real problem)?

It helps to mitigate the lane from wearing on the edges of V. I have wear on my JP near the kickout and I think that this product would've prevented it.

Okay, I get it now. Would something like these Cliffy's work for you (he doesn't have any listed for DE): http://www.passionforpinball.com/ballejects.htm

I would suggest you contact him to see what he has to offer.

I think he's looking for a protector for the balltrough, sometimes the trough gets little dimples
The plastic v inserts on the bottom of the trough.
I do think it would interfere with the rollover switches, isnt the protector made for opto trough?

Yes, I am looking for a protector for the ball trough.

I am having an issue sometimes during six ball multiball, if all six balls are in play and if more than three of the balls drain all at once, the ball trough won’t feed the shooter lane. It sounds like the shooter lane is trying to “shoot” the ball, but the ball trough isn’t feeding the ball to the shooter lane. I’ve talked to a couple of my pinball friends and they seem to think it is because of the ball trough divots.

Has anyone else experienced this issue before? If so, how have you resolved it?

Thanks

You have this issue:

In both Data East and B/W games i have taken the trough out/apart and filed the rails until the divots are gone. The problem can be worse if you have a game using magnets and the balls become magnetised.

Thought the club might get a kick outta a different kind of JP pinball - JP Pachinko from Japan.

IMG_3470 (resized).jpeg

As many of you may or may not know, I'm a PinSound fanatic. I have PinSound cards, speakers, and headphone stations in both my Getaway and my Jurassic Park. I've created a multitude of custom orchestrations for Getaway which I've openly shared, and helped create numerous other orchestrations for pins I don't even own in support of fellow Pinsiders. I was really excited when PinSound asked me to create the custom orchestration for The Getaway which they would distribute to Getaway owners who purchased their new shakers. It was fun learning something new, I took my time and did my absolute best, and after the fact really enjoy having the added element of a shaker on The Getaway.

Flash forward to a few weeks ago, and PinSound approached me to do the default "shakerization" (my term) program for Jurassic Park. At first I questioned this as my JP already has a factory shaker, and I assumed all did. However, I've always thought it was limited, and when PinSound told me they had received several request for JP, I decided to jump at the chance. This will actually be my fifth pin to program a PinSound "shakerization", so I feel confident that I'll be able to do a good job for everyone in a timely manner.

Well, my new PinSound shaker arrived while I was out for Thanksgiving, and I finally had time today to install it. Installation is quite simple, and PinSound includes very easy instructions to follow along with all of the parts needed. It took me about an hour in total to get everything installed. I first removed the old shaker, then followed the step-by-step instructions (had nice visuals also).

Now the next step is for me to perform the programming. The great thing about this is that once completed, the shaker will basically be plug and play for anyone who purchases it. It will take me a few days to complete (maybe through the weekend), as I typically do lots of tweaking to get things just the way I want them - a nice balance with not too much shaker, but appropriate where needed. The software to actually do the programming is quite intuitive and simple to use. With my default routine, owners will be able to go with it out of the box, or they can actually modify settings to their liking quite easily using my shakerization as a template.

Here is a basic overview of the installation process in Jurassic Park.

1. I laid out and inventoried all of the parts on a nearby pin (I was actually one standoff short for the Motion Control board, but 3 were quite sufficient)
IMG_3092 (resized).JPG

2. I installed the Motion Control board in the backbox then made all of the connections and ran the shaker cable down into the cabinet
IMG_3093 (resized).JPGIMG_3094 (resized).JPG

3. I removed the old shaker, placed the provided template down, and drilled the 4 mounting holes (I did have to remove the old small shaker power board to more easily access the area)
IMG_3095 (resized).JPG

4. I tapped the nuts in on the bottom of the cabinet
IMG_3097 (resized).JPG

5. I inserted and tightened the 4 bolts to secure the shaker, screwed the protective cover on, then connected the power to the shaker
IMG_3096 (resized).JPGIMG_3099 (resized).JPG

6. Powered the pin on and verified correct LED lighting on the Motion Control board
IMG_3100 (resized).JPG

My JP resets very often (once the word slam tilt appeared, the others restart or the screen remains off while the lights of the playfield turned on for a few minutes and then restarts) I think it depends on the 5v right? What are the components to replace on the power supply to restore the 5v? I'm not familiar with electronics but I'm handy with the welder