Couple of things.

Next time change your batteries while the pin is turned on, and you won’t lose your settings.

If the display freezes On DMD but everything sounds like the games is working (Can you actually play a game?), then I would first fully disconnect the ribbon cable from the DMD and reconnect it. Also do the same at the opposite end of the cable on the DMD controller. Do this with the game turned off.

Fired up my machine for the first time in a few weeks and played a few games. Everything works fine, but something feels off with the auto plunger. When I get to tri-ball, the ball feeds into the shooter lane and then there is quite a bit of delay before the auto plunge. It felt like it took an eternity for the game to kick out the extra 2 balls. Thoughts on what might be the issue?

Mine is doing the same thing lately, haven't dug into it to find the issue yet.

I would check your shooter inlane switch. I've seen that not working causing a delay in auto plunging the ball.

Try reseating all the ribbon cables on each end to the DMD, DMD controller and to the MPU (6 connections).

Mr Tantrum's scoop ready lights electric fence covers
Mutch better than the ugly iron , and they also hide a good portion of the wiring!

Also the dinosaur zone decal
@ Tantrum
Great fit, perfect man!
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Desperate for some help, in the middle of a JP restore and I have no idea where these 2 wires go. If you look at the picture, I'm holding the 2 wires with my thumb, they come off a little tap screwed right about smack dab in the middle of the playfield. One wire is solid white and the other is white with a green stripe. Hoping a fellow JP owner can have a look and LMK where these go? TIA
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My vote:

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As I recall the diodes were moved off the scoop switches there as the vibration would cause the diode connection to break.

Gord

Bingo, switch in trough from control room, white on banded side of diode, white/green with another white/green and green/black on non -banded side

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Wow GREAT help guys thank you so much!!! Just wondering if the switch should have a diode also or the diode should only be on that tap screwed into the P.F ?

My switch has a diode on it...banded side on the white/right

Hi All -

Dealing with an issue that I just can't figure out. I shopped my JP, and upon finishing it up and powering it on, coils start firing and switches keep engaging repeatedly. In switch test, I see that a lot of things are engaging at once. Is this indicative of a short? Does anyone know if any of these areas have something in common, where I can trace it back to either a connector or possibly use it to diagnose a short? I added a video below. Thanks for the help in advance.

Except for the right sling and trex right, everything is is suppose to be on like that. I don't see trough 2 listed in the video. Your game is probably doing a ball search since all your trough switches aren't showing active.

I wanted to let everyone know that I had an opportunity to play the new Stern Jurassic Park LE yesterday, and I must say that I was pleasantly surprised. It is a very different game than our original in appearance, layout, toys, and ruleset, and it is a very nice game in its own right. The T-Rex is pretty awesome, the helicopter is cool, and overall all the other features of this pin made it a lot of fun. I think the key is to not view it as a remake or sequel (which it is not, of course), but to take it on its own merits. Also, I had absolute no issue with the minimal licensing integrations. It still follows the them with sound and video of the JP movie (the opening helicopter scene landing in front of the waterfall is really cool), but it just doesn't use actual footage or the voice actors from the movie.

I won't be buying one anytime soon (or ever), as my caviar taste doesn't align with my chips & salsa budget, but I don't think there is anything for us original owners to be jealous or resentful about. If you want two different games with the same theme, then these two are definitely different in so many ways that you could have both in your collection. If you only want one and you stay with the DE version, then you should be happy and enjoy it. If you want the latest new technology, then I can confidently suggest that you will enjoy the new version and probably wouldn't miss your DE JP too much if you were to depart with it.

Well said. I feel the same way and currently getting the premium version very soon so I'll own both for now which definitely works. Stern did a great job with it and best of all the two compliment each other very well as what one lacks the other has.

Hmm. The right VUK on the subway continues to fire continuously over and over very rapidly. It's not a stuck switch or anything, so it looks like the issue lies somewhere else.

My local pinball museum got an LE and I spent most of yesterday playing it also. I know JP2 is well received overall, but everyone has their own likes and dislikes, so we each have to try it for ourselves.

The T-REX head moves fairly smoothly and looks pretty cool. It is kind of snake like and creepy. I think they did a good job with it. I love when he swings over and drops the ball on the wireform ramp. The angle you view the head from is sort of top down which is not optimum. When you shoot the ball in to his mouth I think a magnet grabs it, so as long as the ball makes it up in to his mouth, it does not reject. Unfortunately this LE was having issues with the lower right flipper yesterday and getting it up in to his mouth and making the ramp shot was harder than it should have been. The flipper was a little week and would droop a little when holding it up to catch a ball, so it needed repair, and the owner of the museum was not around. One other issue I noticed with this LE was the left fence post was leaning on the T-REX and would rock left/right when the T-REX moved, so something was loose there. Hate seeing a new pin with issues, but that's pinball.

That being said, the pin was fun to shoot. From my play, and watching the streams, I noticed the upper right flipper could be dangerous. When trying to repeat the loop, and missing a fast moving loop shot, the ball often came back diagonally and headed for the outlanes. If the ball is going too fast, hold the flipper up and the ball will hit the target there and bounce back to the flipper for a more safe and controlled upper flipper shot.

The toys were fun to shoot. The truck/newton ball was fun to flip back and forth. The motorized door in front of the raptor pit was fun to hit and knock the locked ball around in there. The spinner is fun. Dialing in all the shots to spell CHAOS is tricky, and hitting the "amber" shot up through the pops was satisfying to start CHAOS. The light show was also well done. There was a ton of stuff going on with the rules that I was not yet familiar with, so it seems like there is plenty to do if you had this in a home environment. The CGI graphics on the display were decent, so Stern is making progress there. The sound package seemed fine for as much as I could hear. I really love the 'spitter dino' spinner sound, which is probably the best spinner sound in any pin yet!

The mirrored backglass is REALLY nice, but the cartoony truck they added does not fit the artwork IMHO. I think a beat up generic vehicle would have been much cooler.

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LESS THIS:
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Anyway, its a pinball machine and not a truck documentary, so who cares. My overall take on the pin is that I like it (which I don't often say about new pins) and it does not diminish the fun I have with my Data East JP. I don't have any plans or space to get a new pin, but If I were in the market, it would be between this and Wonka LE which is also fun to shoot.

Might be a dumb question, but is there a ball somewhere in the subway? Mine used to do that and i had the rebuild the vuk. It was struggling trying to get ball up to the wireform. It would drop down and the vuk would go off again,but most of the time would push the ball back up into the subway. Also, if the vuk keeps firing it might be the switch above the coil, but that switch should show as on during the switch test.

Service Bulletin 43 discusses this fix...but yes I feel I've seen/heard something about moving the diode off that assembly. Maybe it was the fix for the later serial numbers?

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Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the 4 pieces of plastic trim around the backglass? I'm afraid I'm going to break/drop my glass because every time I take it out, all four plastic surround pieces just fall right off - driving me crazy. I want to replace them, but do it with the right stuff. I've searched through the manual, but either it's not there or I'm not smart enough to find it.

I need to put an order in with Pinball Life, so if someone has ordered the correct pieces from there before could you please point me to the correct items on their site?

I just went to Hobby Lobby and bought one of those cheap poster frames and used the plastic ends for my back glass on my Laser War. Worked just a good. But if I needed the same for my JP, I'd want to make sure they were the correct parts. But at least you have Hobby Lobby as an option.

Any ideas?

If all you did was shop it, you've probably created a short on the underside. Did you do any soldering? Replacing of anything electrical?

I installed a diode on my VUK backwards and it caused the VUK to engage. Didn't do it repeatedly though. It just stayed on.

Look at everything you've touched. There's a lot of chances to move stuff around on the underside. Make sure nothings touching.

Looks like the wires Green-Red, Green-Yellow, and Green-Blue are pretty common from your video. Try to trace those as far back as possible.

I concur with edward472 . If your trough is full but switch #2 isn't engaged, that could cause issues. Check the wiring there and make sure nothing is touching or shorted. Also, I'd check the right sling to see why it is active in switch test mode.

Check in the switch matrix in the manual, look up what is firering or activating
Check those rows and colloms if you got a diode wrong side around or somting is shorting.

Hey gang, trying to install this loop combo mod but can't seem to get this one in the right position. Anyone have experience with this?

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You have to bend the mounting wire so the plastic sits in front of the 2 bulbs. Also note how mine is attached. The mounting wire goes between the bracket for the 2 bulbs and wires and nut there. (your wire is routed on the wrong side of the wire and nut)

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Very helpful, I appreciate the help. Seems my version of this mod might be different, the wire seems to be of different length / bend

Also make sure your putting the correct one in the correct spot.

Hoping this is the right place to ask this question , can someone verify the right leg length for JP? Manual says it's part# 535-5020-30 but doesn't say length, and google isn't helping, all the parts suppliers have it as out of stock, with the new sterns being the replacement. TIA

28.5 inches.......

thank you very much hawkeyexx! Weird because the part # in the manual should be 30 3/4", even if discontinued the new stern 30 1/2 is probably fine, just couldn't figure out when they made the switch from 28.5 to 30 1/2, anyway thanks again!

Can anyone explain what the “special” on the out lanes does? I’ve lit it and rolled over it in tri ball but have no idea what it does... points..etc?

You can set it to extra ball, points, credit
It depends on what code you are running (Chads code is a must!)

Original code: Special can be lit via Egg shot but it is very rare and it can only happen on Ball 3.

Updated code by ChadH : Special can be lit via Egg shot but it is very rare and it can now happen on any Ball.

Has any thought of using the new stern side blades on the DE? I think the fence wire version and trex eyes are pretty cool. I wonder if they would fit and if they would compliment the older version playfield.

Retro refurbs sells these

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That is listed as being for Stern. Did it fit the DE ok?

I placed them at the most front position cause i wanted the little vulcano on the place where my jeep wouldnt block it next to the vuk. And the gate next to the ramp exit.

You can place them a little further back so you wont see the upper corner, but i never notice it when playing unless i putt my head on the glass

I believe a placed a picture in this tread somewhere maybe you can find it.
Heres two i had on my tablet.

Edit, they are at foto page 22 in this topic

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So... I talked to two people a long time ago about a used JP playfield I have. I can't find the PM's and if one of those folks wants it, I'd like to get it to them first. If you are one of those people, PM me and I can send you some pics. If I don't hear from them I'll post it for sale here.

Look for JP backbox if anyone has a nice one available.

Im having trouble booting after upgrading To 6.0 roms. The machine powers up but the dmd stays blank. the trex test sounds work and then the dmd will list the sound rom but nothing is working. The PIA light stays lit and blanking never lights.

I placed the rom chip with the dot to the right like the board indicates, but im pretty sure the PIA light is indicating a c5 rom error which is the cpu rom i replaced.

Are you sure all of the pins are intact on the chip, fully seated, and that you aren't off a row or anything? Maybe some close-up pics where we can see both rows of pins on each chip would help.

Finally attempting to fix this. Replaced the components on the board and turned on the game to see a light show and the new components I just installed burned up... I resorted to tearing down the pf to where I could get to the raptor pit coil and found that it was quite cooked and shorted... I've got a new one of those on the way and replaced the components on the board again. Hopefully I'm good to go after that.

Doesnt look to be off but maybe im missing it.

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Looks good to me. Maybe try reseating them, and if they still fail, maybe a bad ROM burn - will need to contact whoever you ordered them from.

Did you try your old ROM?

This is the second rom ive tried. And unfortunately i broke a leg off the original. I seem to have an issue with that.

After removing the chip, something looks wonky with the last 3 spots on the top.

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Looks like you need a new IC socket.