https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2-new-alternative-jurassic-park-translites

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks so much, I emailed Retro as I like the Gates .

No problemo!

Be sure to post some pics here when you got it installed!

I’m not seeing that out here unless the machine is in bad shape.

The only way I see the JP going down in price, especially those in great condition with high-end mods like many of us have, is short-term as current JP owners flood the market selling their machines to replace it with the new one. On the other hand, I really don't know that that class of people is significant enough to have any real impact, especially in particular geographic areas.

From my short-term experience in pinball, it seems like a new/updated release of an established theme can even drive up the price a little since the new version cost so much. Many will have renewed interest in the classic version, thus creating more demand on a limited supply.

I posted this in another thread, but I’ll post it here as well as it seems a relevant place to do so.

I’m betting both previous Jurassic Park games either maintain their price go up slightly in value after the new release.
It would only take a handful of people interested in collecting all three as a series to change the price a bit.
The Lost World is already really cheap for a DMD pin. If either of them go up in value, I would think it would be this one. It’s already at a really cheap price point and doesn’t seem to come up for sale as often as the Data East pin.
The Data East version I don’t think much will change, or maybe a very slight increase in price. If it were at a more expensive price point it might suffer, but I think it’s already valued at kind of a sweet spot that is still quite a bit cheaper than any NIB pin.

Here is the photos of the subway ramp repair. I used 1/8 lexan and a mini torch gun to heat it to form on the outside of the ramp. Glued the lexan to the subway ramp using JB weld epoxy. Waited an hour to cure.I fitted the ramp to the VUK bracket I heated the end of the new plastic so it would fit correctly to the VUK.

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Not feeling the Zen pinball animations on the new Stern. If you were born after the movie came out, then maybe that's up your alley.

While I would play this game, I too am kinda disappointed with parts of that.

There's just something about it. It kinda feels like a generic version of the license. While I don't mind some of the animations, I feel like this machine is based off of a cartoon that never happened. Kinda like the 80's and 90's cartoons based off of movies. They took the license and made their own version of what happened. The sounds and sound effects also throw it way off. Hoping to see someone do a really good version of the audio. But feel like for it to be done right, Universal would have to help.

So yeah, probably really awesome to those who aren't so invested in the original movie.

I get the sense that if they just would have called it "Dinosaur World" and not half tied it to the JP franchise then many of those expressing disappointment might feel a little differently. Overall, it looks like a very nice pin to me, and I know that many are very stoked. However, there will always be the disappointment from many that it was not delivered as a truly immersive JP experience.

Kinda curious who they hired to do the animations. Compared to Aerosmith, this one blows it away.

Id take one to go next to my current JP.

Last week when I started rebuilding the flippers I noticed that one of the tension plates was on the wrong side of the end of stroke switch. And the screw to attach the flipper return spring was wrong causing the spring to hit the short screw nut on the end of stroke switch. The flipper links were terrible and the coil sleeves were bad and the flipper bushings.

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Keith said the names of the person who did the animations on the dead flip stream.

I listened to the interview last month, but what I recall Gomez asked industry long time game animator Chuck Ernst, for advice building the team to do their graphics, and ended up hiring Chuck to build the team at Stern.

https://player.fm/series/special-when-lit-pinball-podcast/episode-57-chuck-ernst-stern-pinball

When asked about the animation during the stream, Kieth listed about 10 names that worked on JP.

These might look pretty nice in our DEJP's
Might have to trim them a little but I think they would work.

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They won’t need the trim. They will fit not only the new Stern jp as well as the Data East jp!

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-stern-pro-pinball-sideblades/

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/jurassic-park-stern-premium-pinball-sideblades/

I think the sunset looks pretty awesome for a different look

Anyone have a link to the power switch to this game? A piece of plastic broke on mine and so it makes turning the game on and off a bit more difficult.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=WRG-32F2

Can you unplug it from the outlet to make the repair?

The existing switch on my game is similar to this one, but I'm not sure if it would work as a replacement on JP.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5640-10932-00

I'm wondering if the rocker switch would fit in place of it. If I remember correctly, there is a circular cutout underneath the game, so I'm just wondering if the rocker is a viable replacement.

Yes, no worries there.

I bought a rocker switch back when I got my machine (it didn’t have a switch at all). Still haven’t figured out what to do with the rocker because it didn’t fit my machine. That toggle you posted should work. That’s what I ended up installing.

Cant you just take a drill to it and square the hole out?

Ill have to look tonight and see what the deal is with mine

Was just enjoying a game of JP Pinball and somehow I entered Super Egg Mania for the first time ever. Was a complete accident, and didn't even know it existed. Anyway, kind of a funny chicken music played, and not even sure what I was supposed to be doing except I assume hit the egg (which I only did once). Also made system failure, so put up one of my best scores yet in the few months I've had the pin.

I wonder back in the day what kind of money you had to feed pins to get decent at it and learn all of the rules and modes. I mainly played video games and can’t imagine how many rolls of quarters I spent on games, but probably enough to buy my own machine before I graduated high school.

Just wanted to share some new upgrades that really add to the game I think.

Wondering which of you are getting a Stern who already have a DE? I have an LE on order but contemplating selling my DE just purely due to limited space (11 max)

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Willy is eyeing that new jeep . . . better watch out.

Hi everyone,

I did some forum searches but came up empty so hoping someone can help me out. My friend and I have been slowly and surely shopping a DE JP machine. We are finally to the point of getting the rubbers changed after doing a playfield teardown and cleanup. The issue is, I took off most rubbers when cleaning, assuming I could use the diagram to put them back later.

I have now discovered that it's well known this diagram is wrong! So I have been working through putting back what I can at least, bumpers, flippers, etc. I was hoping that someone had made an updated document that showed all proper placements? Most advice I see suggests just looking at playfield pictures, which I can do but some of the rubbers seem hidden or hard to see and I'm worried about missing stuff!

Thanks for any and all help everyone. We are excited to finally get this bad boy going, it's been a slow rebuilt of about a year and a half!

Post a photo of what rubbers you need. My playfield is currently out of my machine and can look at mine to help you.

This has been discussed a lot on here. My recent adventure was chronicled here.

Ever since I've owned my JP (only a few months) and even before I bought it, I always thought the translate looked washed out and needed deeper colors. Well, a fellow Pinsider that I've done mods for in the past contacted me to let me know that he had developed a process to create pinball backglasses (not translite sheets - this is print directly on glass). I now have two of his backglasses, and I must say that they are stunning, especially when compared to the original translites. The colors are so much deeper and richer, and they are extremely durable and not easily scratched. I cannot speak to his process, but he even prints a white coating over the graphic that is brilliant white and cleaner/brighter than the white layer on translites.

In the case of the Jurassic Park backglass, I actually edited the file and removed all of the text (Data East logo, signature, trademark verbiage, etc.) and had him print me one. Again, the results are beautiful, and far superior in appearance to the original translite. However, he's decided not to openly advertise, but he is open to making these for other Jurassic Park owners who might be interested. I asked him if he would let me show off his work in the owners thread, and we agreed that I could. Therefore, if anyone is curious or interested in purchasing a new backglass to replace their original translite, please PM me and I will share his contact information (FYI, I will keep all discussions of pricing, ordering, etc. between you and him).

All photos below were taken with a digital SLR camera in manual mode using the same exact settings for each of the comparative photos in RAW format. Files were converted to JPG in Photoshop without any digital modification. As is often the case, the photos don't even capture the differences clearly visible in person. The new backglass is so much richer with deeper colors, brighter whites, and deeper blacks. Also, please note that I have a color changing bulb behind the fire scene at bottom right of image, so this area may not be comparable given the state of the bulb when I snapped the shot. Be sure to click on the image and zoom it to see full size photo.

New backglass unmounted (front side)
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New backglass unmounted (back side)
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Unmounted side-by-side of original translite (left) & new backglass (right)
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Mounted side-by-side with backlight off with original translite (left) & new backglass (right)
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Mounted side-by-side with backlight on with original translite (left) & new backglass (right)
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New backglass with backlight on and room lights off
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Sweeeet!

Awesome looking back glass

Would that person make some for the group? Can you share a cost?

Thanks

He is open to making them on a per order basis, but you will need to discuss costs and details with him. If you PM me, I'm happy to provide his contact info.

Hi all -

I’m working on getting my JP back to 100% - the last issue I have for the moment is goofy scoring. For the first game or so after I plug it in/turn it on, everything is great. Somewhere between games 2 and 3 the score starts doing strange things - it will show very large scores when nothing has been done but then randomly show the correct score. After a bit longer the display will blank out completely from time to time and show absolutely nothing - all the sound works fine and the game is working but the display is simply not. If I think about this rationally it seems like either a heat or logic issue, but I’m not sure which. The CPU test that runs at startup indicates normal operation - the PIA light turns off and there’s no blinks.

Is this as easy as just swapping out the display ROM/cables or should I go overboard and try to replace the whole display board? Is this due to a bad resistor? I guess I’m wondering where you guys would start with this one, especially if someone has seen this before. I reseated all of the cables but this still seems to be occurring on a regular basis. Maybe it's a bad cable?

Many, many thanks in advance

I would make sure your power supply is working correctly. Sounds like you are losing voltage to the DMD. You can run a switch test and see it a switch is causing the scoring issues.

How about some pictures?

Test the voltages at the DMD power connector.

What other games do you have?

How much play should the gear box have?

I’ve stripped down my trex mech to see if I could figure out its issue with always overshooting the middle 90% of the time on the second pass

I’m planning on replacing the center switch as the roller is worn and has slack on it.

As the gear box seems to have enough play that by the time it stops and goes back the other way it is already out again so never lands on the center switch on its own.

so I've never done your test as setup. or with the plate in a vice or mounted bracket which would allow us to see true slop cause your left hand is naturally going to do some work to counter those forces BUT from a purely mechanical perspective this looks reasonable and should be within what can be tolerated. the center switch is decently generous.

have you updated code to something other than 5.0x? I know they changed the programming to make power on/off rather than steady power. this could have a small impact on the issue you're seeing

BUT at this point, you've done 75% of the work, go ahead and replace anything you can to save you the hassle in the future. with that being said, don't forget the 80/20 rule. 80% of the work can be done in 20% of the time, it's the remaining 20% that takes up 80% of your time.

Thanks.

I am running latest chad code.

If I take it out again I’ll vice it and take actual measurements. If a gearbox pops up locally I’ll grab it and compare.

I did adjust the centre switch so that it can just pass underneath the mechs post. It gives it a tiny bit more contact.

I’ve just reinstalled it and done a quick test and it seemed to trigger the up down motion.

It’s aim seems to still be off when it leans forward to get the ball but everything isn’t reinstalled yet.

I added two 4 inch led strips from comet pinball to light up the plastic strip in the cabinet. Wired in a plug to the illumination panel so the wiring will not get tangled up with the playfield. Used 1/8 thick by 1 inch wide aluminum flat stock and bent the ends of it and fit it to the bracket that holds the plastic strip.

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Mine is similar but uses 2 of the Matrix 8 inch Amber LED strips and connects into one of the GI circuits.

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I wished I purchased the 8 inch strips but it works and look very nice. Getting close to installing the playfield back in to the cabinet.

Your solution looks very nice. Please know that I wasn't disparaging you in any way, just offering an alternative to those that come after us. The amber does deliver a more orangish coloring to the sign, but that is just a personal preference.

I finally got some spare time to correct the loop scoop mod that was too long for the control room. I cut the metal wire and used a small torch to heat the metal wire and used needle nose pliers to make a small loop for the 6/32 stud. Before installing I removed the stud and filed the plastic spacer smaller so the pop bumper cap would have some space between the pop bumper cap and the nut that holds the wire and plastic. Used a 6/32 nut with a star washer to give clearance between the cap and the nut. The self locking nut was too tall.

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I love the amber and I wished I used it instead.

Thanks

I’ve probably reLED’d both my games over time. You do what you think you like, but always end up wanting to tweak and change. Next time you need to place a lighting order get what you want and repurpose what you have.

I agree with changing your LEDS.....I reled 3 of my pins in the last year. I always thinking of how to improve things on our pins. I also send photos to comet to get their opinion on my choice of lighting.

Has anyone ever purchased the repro Translite for JP off of EBay, the one that is selling for $59? If so, how does it compare to the original ? I got the $10 off eBay voucher that I got from ReplayFx and was considering purchasing but wasn’t sure of the quality. Thanks !

Can be no better than the translite you already have. I say if you are going to replace it, do it with a real backglass instead of just a translite.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/136#post-5139708