(Topic ID: 80267)

Jurassic Park (DATA EAST) club


By louknees

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
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#6601 6 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I still dont know if my game needs mirror or art blades.
Stickers loop dope. I gotta get in on a set at some point. I did come up with the idea after all!

Im still hoping someone makes sideblades without black dinos
But with visitors centre, waterfall helipad etc.
Still have mirrors cause i think the orange palmtrees are not my thing.

#6602 6 months ago

Just installed a Comet Pinball glare eliminator on my DMD, and really like it. I've been using Pinball Life Bent Plastics on my pins, but finding them a little bothersome both during game play and every time I need to slide the glass out (somehow this seems to happen a lot).

Anyway, since I have a ColorDMD I could not affix it to the actual DMD itself, and no way I was just sticking in on the outside of the speaker panel. A quick chat with Comet support, and they told me that their filters where non-directional and that I could apply it to the inside of the speaker panel. So, I removed the panel, removed the DMD, cleaned the inside (and out) of the DMD area on the speaker panel, applied the Glare Eliminator, put everything back together, turned the DMD brightness up to 9 (as high as it would go) and voila! No glare but without the big black bent plastic piece - I love it!

If you are on the fence, I highly encourage you to add one for your JP to your next Comet order.
https://www.cometpinball.com/DMD-GLARE-ELIMINATOR-p/dmdglare.htm

IMG_2453.JPG
#6603 6 months ago

$15 aint bad. I need one for my shadow too. Im swapping the bent plastic back and forth currently, lol.

#6604 6 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

$15 aint bad. I need one for my shadow too. Im swapping the bent plastic back and forth currently, lol.

I was going to put two my bent plastics up for sale, but not worth it with $9 just to ship them (I'd make like $10). If you were local, I'd just give you one.

#6605 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just installed a Comet Pinball glare eliminator on my DMD, and really like it. I've been using Pinball Life Bent Plastics on my pins, but finding them a little bothersome both during game play and every time I need to slide the glass out (somehow this seems to happen a lot).
Anyway, since I have a ColorDMD I could not affix it to the actual DMD itself, and no way I was just sticking in on the outside of the speaker panel. A quick chat with Comet support, and they told me that their filters where non-directional and that I could apply it to the inside of the speaker panel. So, I removed the panel, removed the DMD, cleaned the inside (and out) of the DMD area on the speaker panel, applied the Glare Eliminator, put everything back together, turned the DMD brightness up to 9 (as high as it would go) and voila! No glare but without the big black bent plastic piece - I love it!
If you are on the fence, I highly encourage you to add one for your JP to your next Comet order.
https://www.cometpinball.com/DMD-GLARE-ELIMINATOR-p/dmdglare.htm[quoted image]

I agree. I mentioned it in my Mod video. Best $15 you can spend on an easy mod.

#6606 6 months ago

That looks awesome! Ordering!

#6607 6 months ago

Just got the actor that plays Dr. Hammond, th e actor who plays Timmy and the woman that plays Claire from Fallen Kingdom to sign the back glass of my original JP...Along with some stunt doubles. I am beyond estatic! Kinda hard to see in the pic.

1563049994827512098594372562364 (resized).jpg
#6608 6 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Just got the actor that plays Dr. Hammond, th e actor who plays Timmy and the woman that plays Claire from Fallen Kingdom to sign the back glass of my original JP...Along with some stunt doubles. I am beyond estatic! Kinda hard to see in the pic.[quoted image]

You might be confused. The actor that played Dr Hammond died in 2014.

#6609 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

You might be confused. The actor that played Dr Hammond died in 2014.

Well, they were impersonators but still.

#6610 6 months ago
Quoted from weasel671:

Just got the actor that plays Dr. Hammond, th e actor who plays Timmy and the woman that plays Claire from Fallen Kingdom to sign the back glass of my original JP...Along with some stunt doubles. I am beyond estatic! Kinda hard to see in the pic.

Quoted from Lonzo:

You might be confused. The actor that played Dr Hammond died in 2014.

Maybe Dr. Malcom (Jeff Goldblum) or maybe Dr. Grant (Sam Neill)?

Either way, next best thing to having the weiner mobile driver sign it, right?

#6611 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ok, you got me... I didn't even notice the lights! Looks awesome.

Well, I was doing some minor repairs on my JP, and it bothered me that you were bothered by my bowed sign in the back. So, I came up with a better solution. I used about 1/4" standoffs along with longer screws and now the sign is flat across the back and the light is far enough away that it is diffused.

Thanks for sticking that in my head all this time.

IMG_2455.JPG
#6612 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I was doing some minor repairs on my JP, and it bothered me that you were bothered by my bowed sign in the back. So, I came up with a better solution. I used about 1/4" standoffs along with longer screws and now the sign is flat across the back and the light is far enough away that it is diffused.
Thanks for sticking that in my head all this time. [quoted image]

LOL. I am glad I could share my neurosis with you. I had geteos print me out a whole other T-rex box because I wanted a different color/texture. It's bad.

Looks awesome. I wanted to do your backboard solution but I have like no time.

#6613 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I agree. I mentioned it in my Mod video. Best $15 you can spend on an easy mod.

I'll third this opinion, because I installed one in my JP and it is amazing, totally eliminated the glare off the glass. Gave me a chance to clean the speaker panel too (there was some futz between the DMD and the plexiglass.)

#6614 6 months ago

Lonzo, I thought I remembered you posting something on how to modify a new eject shield, but I'm having trouble locating it. My issue is that the ball sometimes gets hung at the bottom of the T-Rex pit eject shield (i.e. just short of rolling fully into the depression so that it is detected). I've fully cut and sanded the two tabs that stickup and they are flush and flat to the rest of the surface. The issue is that the eject shield there is wider than at the other points around the circumference of the hole. Kind of frustrating because play stops and I have to bump the machine several times (often I tilt) to get the ball to fall forward into the hole.

When I look at the original yellow one, it looks like that this part was somehow ground down to make the lip less deep in order for the ball to not get caught on the front (i.e. like with some kind of ball shaped bit or something). Anyway, was wondering if you could tell me what you did to prevent this and/or point me to the existing post if you explain it there.

IMG_2456.JPG
#6615 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Lonzo, I thought I remembered you posting something on how to modify a new eject shield, but I'm having trouble locating it. My issue is that the ball sometimes gets hung at the bottom of the T-Rex pit eject shield (i.e. just short of rolling fully into the depression so that it is detected). I've fully cut and sanded the two tabs that stickup and they are flush and flat to the rest of the surface. The issue is that the eject shield there is wider than at the other points around the circumference of the hole. Kind of frustrating because play stops and I have to bump the machine several times (often I tilt) to get the ball to fall forward into the hole.
When I look at the original yellow one, it looks like that this part was somehow ground down to make the lip less deep in order for the ball to not get caught on the front (i.e. like with some kind of ball shaped bit or something). Anyway, was wondering if you could tell me what you did to prevent this and/or point me to the existing post if you explain it there.[quoted image]

In my Restoration thread I show how I cut rheblittle tabs you mentioned off and how I polished it so you can’t see where they were. The only thing I can think of is I can’t tell if you sanded and polished where the tabs were. If there is any bit of those tabs left no mater how small, I can see the ball catching on them. I have never had this happen so I don’t have a known fix. Just thinking outside the box, I might try and put a small washer underneath between the shield and the wood. That would “lower” the shield by a little and possibly allow the ball to fall in the hole. Of course you would have to make sure it doesn’t interfere with the TRex picking the ball up.

#6616 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

In my Restoration thread I show how I cut rheblittle tabs you mentioned off and how I polished it so you can’t see where they were. The only thing I can think of is I can’t tell if you sanded and polished where the tabs were. If there is any bit of those tabs left no mater how small, I can see the ball catching on them. I have never had this happen so I don’t have a known fix. Just thinking outside the box, I might try and put a small washer underneath between the shield and the wood. That would “lower” the shield by a little and possibly allow the ball to fall in the hole. Of course you would have to make sure it doesn’t interfere with the TRex picking the ball up.

Thanks for the feedback. There is no trace of the tabs by feel - as smooth as can be. Your washer idea might work (I can 3D print one the right size, and even maybe print it slanted), or maybe just a couple of washers with the two rearmost screws would create enough backwards slant. I'll think through it a little more and see what I can do. Hopefully, I'm explaining the issue clearly in that the deck where the tabs once existed is deeper (front to back) than what is on the original which seems to have been modified. Basically, it is creating a platform for the ball to fully rest on in some instances (I'd say maybe 1-5 times - enough to be annoying). It may just so happen that based upon how I have my pin leveled from front to back, this areas is also level or slightly leans forward enough to "catch" the ball (maybe 1/2 a degree lower on the back might fix it). Initially, I thought maybe it was the brand of shield I bought, but when looking at the one in my Getaway it is exactly the same, and upon close inspection of the JP one it has obviously been modified.

#6617 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks for the feedback. There is no trace of the tabs by feel - as smooth as can be. Your washer idea might work (I can 3D print one the right size, and even maybe print it slanted), or maybe just a couple of washers with the two rearmost screws would create enough backwards slant. I'll think through it a little more and see what I can do. Hopefully, I'm explaining the issue clearly in that the deck where the tabs once existed is deeper (front to back) than what is on the original which seems to have been modified. Basically, it is creating a platform for the ball to fully rest on in some instances (I'd say maybe 1-5 times - enough to be annoying). It may just so happen that based upon how I have my pin leveled from front to back, this areas is also level or slightly leans forward enough to "catch" the ball (maybe 1/2 a degree lower on the back might fix it). Initially, I thought maybe it was the brand of shield I bought, but when looking at the one in my Getaway it is exactly the same, and upon close inspection of the JP one it has obviously been modified.

That interesting. I have never had an issue in 750+ games. I would have to go back and look at my pictures to see if the original looked any different since I don’t have it anymore. I don’t remember there being anything different. Send a close up without the ball so I can see the difference of how it looks compared to the edge of the wood hole.

#6618 6 months ago

Only other thing I can think of is the angle of the playfield is higher than mine maybe.

#6619 6 months ago

It looks like there s some rubber thing in his hole! Maybe that slows the ball

#6620 6 months ago

I will have to get one closeups so everyone can see the difference. That “rubber” thing was is a thin firm textured piece that I assume was installed to protect the hole (was there when I bought the game). Can’t see that it has any impact on my issue when I replicate the problem by hand as it doesn't get in the way and doesn't impact momentum.

Issue occurs when ball slowly rolls in from front or when hits hole from other angle but lips out towards the front and then rests on the platform where the two tabs previously existed.

BTW, at what angle do you have your game? Maybe a pic of the level under the left apron card if you get a chance?

#6621 6 months ago

Okay, here are some pics. As you can see the platform on the new red one is substantially deeper than the old yellow, and the yellow looks like it has been purposefully modified to achieve this (I assume by the factory). FYI, I double checked and the original one used in the boat dock at back right of playfield is exactly the same as the yellow T-Rex original.
IMG_7923.jpgIMG_7923b.jpgIMG_7925.jpgIMG_7925b.jpgIMG_7924.jpg

#6622 6 months ago

When I worked on mine after I first got it, my T-Rex saucer had already been replaced. It was a weird red one with step grooves in it. Not sure what game it used to belong to, but it wasn't JP. I wanted to replace it with another amber one like the original, but were sold out. So I just moved the one from the Boat Dock to the Trex, and bought a new white one to go back to the dock. And I haven't had any issues with either holes. Didn't have to modify any either. And you can't really see the dock one, so I didn't care what color it was.

And with the original tabs still in the saucer, shots to the Trex rarely miss. Once the ball gets past the saucer, it will always be caught by it no matter how hard or soft the shot. I think one out of about 100 shots will spin out, and go back to the playfield, but never have had any issues where it's caught but never centers in the cup.

#6623 6 months ago
Quoted from woody24:

When I worked on mine after I first got it, my T-Rex saucer had already been replaced. It was a weird red one with step grooves in it. Not sure what game it used to belong to, but it wasn't JP. I wanted to replace it with another amber one like the original, but were sold out. So I just moved the one from the Boat Dock to the Trex, and bought a new white one to go back to the dock. And I haven't had any issues with either holes. Didn't have to modify any either. And you can't really see the dock one, so I didn't care what color it was.

I too thought of that as I don't think a new one in the Boat Dock would be an issue, but I want a red one for T-Rex and I've also lit it with red LEDs.

#6624 6 months ago

I am experiencing a ball trough issue and was hoping someone could give me some advice. The issue only seems to happen during 6 ball multi ball when in chaos mode or system failure. At the start of chaos or system failure, the game will begin to plunge and clear all the balls from the trough without any problems. The problem occurs when a few of the balls begin to drain. The balls will stay in the trough (usually position 1 , 2 and 3) but the coil is still firing like it is trying to plunge the balls back onto the playfield.

After all balls drain, the game starts up the next ball with no issue so . Has anyone experienced this or have any thoughts?

Thanks!

#6625 6 months ago
Quoted from jugood20:

I am experiencing a ball trough issue and was hoping someone could give me some advice. The issue only seems to happen during 6 ball multi ball when in chaos mode or system failure. At the start of chaos or system failure, the game will begin to plunge and clear all the balls from the trough without any problems. The problem occurs when a few of the balls begin to drain. The balls will stay in the trough (usually position 1 , 2 and 3) but the coil is still firing like it is trying to plunge the balls back onto the playfield.
After all balls drain, the game starts up the next ball with no issue so . Has anyone experienced this or have any thoughts?
Thanks!

I feel your pain. It happens on my game. It happened with the original trough and it still happens with the updated opto trough. I'm assuming it has to be an issue with the release coil. Mine only happens during System Failure. I'm on the 6.0 code.

#6626 6 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

I feel your pain. It happens on my game. It happened with the original trough and it still happens with the updated opto trough. I'm assuming it has to be an issue with the release coil. Mine only happens during System Failure. I'm on the 6.0 code.

Quoted from newovad:

I feel your pain. It happens on my game. It happened with the original trough and it still happens with the updated opto trough. I'm assuming it has to be an issue with the release coil. Mine only happens during System Failure. I'm on the 6.0 code.

Interesting, I’m on 6.0 code as well. I first noticed it when I made it to system failure and thought it might have just been a fluke. But then I started noticing it happening on Chaos mode. It seems to only happen when the balls begin to drain immediately after they all clear the trough the first time. Not sure what to do, as there seems to be no thread on this issue on Pinside or anywhere else.

#6627 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, here are some pics. As you can see the platform on the new red one is substantially deeper than the old yellow, and the yellow looks like it has been purposefully modified to achieve this (I assume by the factory). FYI, I double checked and the original one used in the boat dock at back right of playfield is exactly the same as the yellow T-Rex original.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you get your new ones? Just wondering if diffferent sources have different ones. I would try and take that pad off if you cAn and see how it works. I put a little custom cut piece of Mylar in the same place. Protects it and can’t see it.

#6628 6 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

I feel your pain. It happens on my game. It happened with the original trough and it still happens with the updated opto trough. I'm assuming it has to be an issue with the release coil. Mine only happens during System Failure. I'm on the 6.0 code.

Yep, common. Ive been chasing trough issues for months now. I barely play my game right now because Im so frustrated with it.

#6629 6 months ago
Quoted from jugood20:

I am experiencing a ball trough issue and was hoping someone could give me some advice

That question comes up about once a year. The switch in the video gets stiff.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-ball-trough-fix-video-jplahtftctommywwfrrgnr

#6630 6 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

That question comes up about once a year. The switch in the video gets stiff.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-ball-trough-fix-video-jplahtftctommywwfrrgnr

I saw that video, but it seems as though the issue I am experiencing is slightly different. Then game isn’t having trouble figuring out where the ball is on the playfield, it just won’t plunge the balls out during six ball multi ball, after they’ve all been plunged the first go around. Would replacing the switch fix this issue?

#6631 6 months ago
Quoted from jugood20:

I saw that video, but it seems as though the issue I am experiencing is slightly different. Then game isn’t having trouble figuring out where the ball is on the playfield, it just won’t plunge the balls out during six ball multi ball, after they’ve all been plunged the first go around. Would replacing the switch fix this issue?

Yep, not the same with me either. I replaced that switch, bent the switch arm, it all works.

My balls look to get hung up at the edge from the trough rail to the vuk bracket.

My game started as an issue with just the 6 ball multi ball and now i have issues all the time kicking the ball into the shooter lane. It will work for a few games and then stop and make the game unplayable.

Ive cleanrd and changed the coil sleeve on the release mech as well.

Nothing seems to work.

#6632 6 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Yep, not the same with me either. I replaced that switch, bent the switch arm, it all works.
My balls look to get hung up at the edge from the trough rail to the vuk bracket.
My game started as an issue with just the 6 ball multi ball and now i have issues all the time kicking the ball into the shooter lane. It will work for a few games and then stop and make the game unplayable.
Ive cleanrd and changed the coil sleeve on the release mech as well.
Nothing seems to work.

I’m not exactly sure if it is the same problem or not but I had a trough issue when I was restoring my game. The bracket that was holding the coil was bent and causing the ball to be fired more straight up instead of an angle. I never had trouble with the ball actaully getting to the shooter lane but if the bracket was bent a little more, I could see it not making it. I talk about it in the post below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/9#post-4161135

#6633 6 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

That question comes up about once a year. The switch in the video gets stiff.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-ball-trough-fix-video-jplahtftctommywwfrrgnr

It is not this. The ball is not released from the trough into the kicker (i.e. no ball to even touch the switch in the video). However, the kicker is constantly firing as if a ball is there. I'll try to get a video later today.

#6634 6 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

It is not this. The ball is not released from the trough into the kicker (i.e. no ball to even touch the switch in the video). However, the kicker is constantly firing as if a ball is there. I'll try to get a video later today.

This is exactly what is happening to me.

Its like the lip between the trough rail and the vuk is too high for the balls to easily release into the vuk.

#6635 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Where did you get your new ones? Just wondering if diffferent sources have different ones. I would try and take that pad off if you cAn and see how it works. I put a little custom cut piece of Mylar in the same place. Protects it and can’t see it.

Either Marco's or PBL (don't remember which since I order from both depending upon what I'm needed at the time). From the images, both are the same (the ledge runs the full depth of the tabs). I can easily change out the black piece with clear mylar, so happy to give that a try. Might wax the entire area also to slicken things up a bit to see if that helps. Also, I know it is a pain, but next time you have your JP glass off would you mind taking a close-up pic of your front-to-back level under the left playing card?

#6636 6 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

It is not this. The ball is not released from the trough into the kicker (i.e. no ball to even touch the switch in the video). However, the kicker is constantly firing as if a ball is there. I'll try to get a video later today.

This is the exact issue I’m experiencing as well. I’ll also try to post a video later today. I’m glad I’m not the only one experiencing this! There’s got to be a solution!

#6637 6 months ago

On the search for a set of the discontinued scoop signs, any idea where these might still be available?

hqdefault (resized).jpg
#6638 6 months ago
Quoted from adamross:

On the search for a set of the discontinued scoop signs, any idea where these might still be available?[quoted image]

Did a quick google search, here is what I found

https://loopcombo.com/products/jurassic-park-scoop-light-set

#6639 6 months ago

This club is about to become a hell of a lot bigger.

#6640 6 months ago
Quoted from smassa:

This club is about to become a hell of a lot bigger.

You got some intel for us?

#6641 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Either Marco's or PBL (don't remember which since I order from both depending upon what I'm needed at the time). From the images, both are the same (the ledge runs the full depth of the tabs). I can easily change out the black piece with clear mylar, so happy to give that a try. Might wax the entire area also to slicken things up a bit to see if that helps. Also, I know it is a pain, but next time you have your JP glass off would you mind taking a close-up pic of your front-to-back level under the left playing card?

Here is my level. The manual says 6.5 degrees. It appears over time. Mine has adjusted to 6.7 and I confirmed that with my pin app.
206F0923-A7A5-4E3B-84E2-9D2614292D8B (resized).jpeg

#6642 6 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

I feel your pain. It happens on my game. It happened with the original trough and it still happens with the updated opto trough. I'm assuming it has to be an issue with the release coil. Mine only happens during System Failure. I'm on the 6.0 code.

I have a couple ideas. First of all I will try and explain the way that I understand the problem and if I get it wrong, please correct me and we will go from there.

1. In certain conditions the Trough ball Lock is not releasing the balls into the VUK to be kicked into the lane. It seems that the conditions for both of you may be slightly different.
2. The VUK will keep firing even though there is no ball there.

I am just going to start throwing ideas out there based on my experience. None of it may help but we are going to give it a shot.

First of all there is a spacer between the playfield and the Trough Ball Lock (TBL). I cant 100% say that is it factory because it is not mentioned in the parts manual but my game will not function without it. I wonder how I know that.

Dscf4946 (resized).jpg

Without that spacer installed, There is not enough room for the ball to pass to the VUK. Now a old tired mech with work out parts and a worn coil stop may allow a ball to pass without it installed. I think one of you mentioned that its when the trough is nearly empty that the TBL will not feed. Lets say that when the TBL fires, there is just a small amount of contact but there is enough "push" from the balls behind it heading downhill that the ball will go trough. When there is no push, the ball may not make it through.
By the same token, If there is just enough contact, the problem may happen sometimes and not others.

As far as the VUK firing with no ball. That sounds like the VUK switch activating and that can happen.

I have a question: Is the TBL firing constantly like the VUK or does it just fire once to release the ball and then the VUK keeps firing?

On your switch test, How much movement does it take for the VUK switch to activate? If it is so close to the edge that just touching it makes it activate then a coil firing can create enough vibration for the switch to activate.

Well just throwing some ideas out. If I got some information wrong let me know and I will try and help some more.

#6643 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Here is my level. The manual says 6.5 degrees. It appears over time. Mine has adjusted to 6.7 and I confirmed that with my pin app.
[quoted image]

Looks like we are almost identical. I played with adjusting the leveling, and there was no impact. Here is a video:


IMG_2469.JPG

Also, I figured out why that black piece of plastic was there - the tip of a screw is coming up from the playfield there. Band-Aid the symptoms instead of fixing the core issue - argh! While I will fix this, even so it is not the cause of my ball resting there. The ball is actually resting in the playfield cutout, and not necessarily the shield.
IMG_2470.JPGIMG_2472.JPG

#6644 6 months ago

Thanks! My google skills clearly need some polishing.

#6645 6 months ago

Okay, here is what I've found. I fixed the screw tip sticking up, and now the ball does not get hung up nearly as easily. I guess just that little bit was enough to kill the momentum and/or catch the ball as it rolled past even with the plastic piece on top of it.

It does still hang on occasion but much less frequently. I tried getting it stuck by hand, and I would say maybe 5% of the time verses what it did in the video. Also, I played a real game at it did get stuck 1 of 4 times I hit the T-Rex pit, but it was much simpler to bump it loose (i.e. didn't have to tilt the pin) and into the hole verses before.

I think I'm happy for now (we'll see how long that lasts), and I appreciate all of the support and ideas.

#6646 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I have a couple ideas. First of all I will try and explain the way that I understand the problem and if I get it wrong, please correct me and we will go from there.
1. In certain conditions the Trough ball Lock is not releasing the balls into the VUK to be kicked into the lane. It seems that the conditions for both of you may be slightly different.
2. The VUK will keep firing even though there is no ball there.
I am just going to start throwing ideas out there based on my experience. None of it may help but we are going to give it a shot.
First of all there is a spacer between the playfield and the Trough Ball Lock (TBL). I cant 100% say that is it factory because it is not mentioned in the parts manual but my game will not function without it. I wonder how I know that.
[quoted image]
Without that spacer installed, There is not enough room for the ball to pass to the VUK. Now a old tired mech with work out parts and a worn coil stop may allow a ball to pass without it installed. I think one of you mentioned that its when the trough is nearly empty that the TBL will not feed. Lets say that when the TBL fires, there is just a small amount of contact but there is enough "push" from the balls behind it heading downhill that the ball will go trough. When there is no push, the ball may not make it through.
By the same token, If there is just enough contact, the problem may happen sometimes and not others.
As far as the VUK firing with no ball. That sounds like the VUK switch activating and that can happen.
I have a question: Is the TBL firing constantly like the VUK or does it just fire once to release the ball and then the VUK keeps firing?
On your switch test, How much movement does it take for the VUK switch to activate? If it is so close to the edge that just touching it makes it activate then a coil firing can create enough vibration for the switch to activate.
Well just throwing some ideas out. If I got some information wrong let me know and I will try and help some more.

I think we are on the right track. I tried twice to recreate the issue and it failed both times. During those times, I just let every ball drain. No issues with System Failure. The third time, I played it like normal. The problem shows up after all six balls are in play and the trough is empty. The game does not release a ball into the VUK but continues to fire.

#6647 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, here is what I've found. I fixed the screw tip sticking up, and now the ball does not get hung up nearly as easily. I guess just that little bit was enough to kill the momentum and/or catch the ball as it rolled past even with the plastic piece on top of it.
It does still hang, but not nearly as easily. I tried getting it stuck by hand, and I would say maybe 5% of the time verses what it did in the video. Also, I played a real game at it did get stuck 1 of 4 times I hit the T-Rex pit, but it was much simpler to bump it loose (i.e. didn't have to tilt the pin) and into the hole verses before.
I think I'm happy for now (we'll see how long that lasts), and I appreciate all of the support and ideas.

Good deal. I was just getting ready to upload a video of mine. I can't get the ball to sit up there even when placed there. But I also fully restored my pit so there are no wear areas either. I saw your screw hole damage. Very common on this game because someone sees a screw missing on the bottom and adds it not knowing what is above. Sounds like it is working better. I would just sand that area down nice and smooth. Might try putting a piece of mylar down if it will stick.

#6648 6 months ago
Quoted from newovad:

I think we are on the right track. I tried twice to recreate the issue and it failed both times. During those times, I just let every ball drain. No issues with System Failure. The third time, I played it like normal. The problem shows up after all six balls are in play and the trough is empty. The game does not release a ball into the VUK but continues to fire.

SO on that part where the VUK started firing. Did the TBL ever activate to let a ball through or did the VUK just start firing?

#6649 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

I would just sand that area down nice and smooth. Might try putting a piece of mylar down if it will stick.

Done.

#6650 6 months ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

SO on that part where the VUK started firing. Did the TBL ever activate to let a ball through or did the VUK just start firing?

I went back and watched the wires at the top of the screen. They move slightly when the ball is released to the VUK. From what I can tell, the release fires after the 6th ball has been kicked into the shooter lane. When the first ball returns to the trough, the release does not kick again. It is like the game thinks there is a ball in the VUK that just can't be cleared.

I was able to recreate this idea by taking off the apron and starting a new game. I manually slid the balls away from the release before it fired to start the game. I then let the balls go back to their starting positions in the trough. The kicker continued to fire a few times before the release engaged again to put a ball into the VUK.

I went into switch diagnostics to ensure that Trough Switch #7 (in the VUK) was functioning correctly. I even tried banging the playfield and shooter lane area to get it to trigger but everything checked out so it is not a faulty/closed switch.

Release (resized).png
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